Beef Wellington

Thanks Bob, 👍
 
Post Six


 
Completing the first stage


 
Hull sanding is one of my least favourite jobs, but fortunately this one is not too onerous.

 

I did pay particular attention to the line between the bulwark and first planking strake to ensure no ridge, and I use the blind feel test to seek out any irregularities.


 
I finally use a thin flexible strip to run vertically down each station to detect any gaps or bumps.


 
In total I used 24 of the provided Limewood strips, scrapped one, (wayward taper) and replaced two with wider strips.


 
Stem, Stern post, and keel


With the first planking completed, this is the next stage.

5315
The termination of my first planking leaves something to be desired, this was perhaps the worst example.


 
A neat straight line as indicated in the manual photo’s on page 17 it ain’t.
 
I found it quite tricky to trial fit the stem and sternpost parts and both snapped at the weak points where they connect at the top. Fortunately, it is an issue easily overcome.



5322(1)
To straighten the planking line up I used the Pearwood rabbet patterns aligned to the stem and stern to mark the planking line which was then trimmed using a scalpel.


 
The method Chris has devised is rather good. Small wooden pegs align the pieces perfectly, and the whole process is painless.


 
Some minor filling was required to present a clean line, but  there is a second bite at the cherry, as the second planking will hide it all.

 

5328
The keel pieces slotted into place without further issue, the provided clamps to hold the section in alignment are a nice touch.



5329
I made the simplest of jigs to hold the hull inverted, necessary once the second planking begins.

 

5327(2)
The rectangular block simply slots into the fish hold to keep the hull secure.


To complete this section the Pearwood rabbet strips are put into place, using the pegs provided to ensure alignment.


 
Before gluing the Pearwood rabbet patterns there is a final opportunity to assess the rebate against which the second planking will terminate, and whether the first planking needs a final tweak to suit.

 
 

5335(2)

5337(2)

5333(2)
After two weeks fairly leisurely work the hull is ready for the second planking.


 

 
 
B.E.


 
31/05/2020

Small update.
 
2nd planking done.
Photos show a huhe ca but in reality its not so bad. Also it will be sanded off. General happy with planking but had to use few fillers. Hope to do better job next time.
Sanding will be done with delta sander and by hand. Hopefully this weekend as Admiral would prefer it to be done outside.
 
Deck planking done.
Probably will leave it natural and cover with Admiralty matt varnish. Im afraid to use Osmo exptic wood oil wax as it might not be perfect outcome. On test piece it brushed pen on planks.
 
Started planking inside of bulkwarks. Gunports will be cut out later. Tested it before with Dremel. Ordered special smallest Dremel i could find for precise work. Plan is to use Proxxon pensander for thight spots-lets see if its worth the investment.
 
Stern needs some corrections as planks there dont fit against hull planks. Will remove 3 and install new ones(keel isnt glued at stern).

Ordered some new tools also:
- Small Dremel as mentioned
- Dremel workbench to do better job with drilling. Handdrilling outcome isnt good at all.
 
 

Thanks chaps for the ongoing interest and support.
 
Continuing to feel my way through this.  I really wanted to make the kit materials work, but had to go off on my own which was educational, and more fun than I expected.  I managed to get only 3 strakes of the walnut strip, with tapering, on before it became apparent that no more could be done - even with these some clinkering was unavoidable even with the thin strip.  The thin 0.5mm walnut strips (all of varying thickness and closer to 0.65mm thick) don't edge bend at all to be able to use that technique and luckily some ~1mm thick wood sheet was found from which spiled planks could be cut (not sure what it is, CMB had supplied this when I ordered maple, but it clearly isn't and my guess is its limewood sheet, its pretty soft).  You can see the curvature required below.  The keel former was cut back to provide a slight rebate for the planking at bow and stern, fiddly and a bit messy but seemed to work.  Glad the more structural work is behind me.
 

 
The garboard was installed before the planking was closed up, don't think the shape is fully correct for actual planking practice as this was not tapered at all, but it allowed the last 2 strakes to fit easily enough.   The other benefit was that the final strake had a straight side which made shaping that much easier.  Glue was only used very sparingly on a few strakes and frames where necessary to keep the lines true.  After each strake was positioned, the surface was sanded lightly and diluted PVA glue  brushed on to the whole to hopefully add some additional strength.
 

 

 
Finally, here's a comparison of the hull form to the resin Cutter mini-kit supplied by CC, I bought this way back with the kit.  This looks much more like a launch rather than the sleeker Cutter's lines and overall proportions very different.  To my eye the stern fascia is probably a little big proportionally but need to consider that the keel strip is not yet installed which will change the proportion, but will probably reduce this a little by thinning down the planking thickness there.  Rather than put on a second layer of planks, I'm considering using card stock as a second 'planking' layer to represent clinker planking.  It needs something because when the interior is sanded down the hull could be wafer thin...to quote Mr Creosote.  Any thoughts or experiences with this?
 
Next steps will be to cut and install custom bow and keel pieces, and remove the bizarre sternpost aft of the stern bulkhead that doesn't seem prototypical.  
 

 
 

Thanks chaps for the ongoing interest and support.
 
Continuing to feel my way through this.  I really wanted to make the kit materials work, but had to go off on my own which was educational, and more fun than I expected.  I managed to get only 3 strakes of the walnut strip, with tapering, on before it became apparent that no more could be done - even with these some clinkering was unavoidable even with the thin strip.  The thin 0.5mm walnut strips (all of varying thickness and closer to 0.65mm thick) don't edge bend at all to be able to use that technique and luckily some ~1mm thick wood sheet was found from which spiled planks could be cut (not sure what it is, CMB had supplied this when I ordered maple, but it clearly isn't and my guess is its limewood sheet, its pretty soft).  You can see the curvature required below.  The keel former was cut back to provide a slight rebate for the planking at bow and stern, fiddly and a bit messy but seemed to work.  Glad the more structural work is behind me.
 

 
The garboard was installed before the planking was closed up, don't think the shape is fully correct for actual planking practice as this was not tapered at all, but it allowed the last 2 strakes to fit easily enough.   The other benefit was that the final strake had a straight side which made shaping that much easier.  Glue was only used very sparingly on a few strakes and frames where necessary to keep the lines true.  After each strake was positioned, the surface was sanded lightly and diluted PVA glue  brushed on to the whole to hopefully add some additional strength.
 

 

 
Finally, here's a comparison of the hull form to the resin Cutter mini-kit supplied by CC, I bought this way back with the kit.  This looks much more like a launch rather than the sleeker Cutter's lines and overall proportions very different.  To my eye the stern fascia is probably a little big proportionally but need to consider that the keel strip is not yet installed which will change the proportion, but will probably reduce this a little by thinning down the planking thickness there.  Rather than put on a second layer of planks, I'm considering using card stock as a second 'planking' layer to represent clinker planking.  It needs something because when the interior is sanded down the hull could be wafer thin...to quote Mr Creosote.  Any thoughts or experiences with this?
 
Next steps will be to cut and install custom bow and keel pieces, and remove the bizarre sternpost aft of the stern bulkhead that doesn't seem prototypical.  
 

 
 

Thanks chaps for the ongoing interest and support.
 
Continuing to feel my way through this.  I really wanted to make the kit materials work, but had to go off on my own which was educational, and more fun than I expected.  I managed to get only 3 strakes of the walnut strip, with tapering, on before it became apparent that no more could be done - even with these some clinkering was unavoidable even with the thin strip.  The thin 0.5mm walnut strips (all of varying thickness and closer to 0.65mm thick) don't edge bend at all to be able to use that technique and luckily some ~1mm thick wood sheet was found from which spiled planks could be cut (not sure what it is, CMB had supplied this when I ordered maple, but it clearly isn't and my guess is its limewood sheet, its pretty soft).  You can see the curvature required below.  The keel former was cut back to provide a slight rebate for the planking at bow and stern, fiddly and a bit messy but seemed to work.  Glad the more structural work is behind me.
 

 
The garboard was installed before the planking was closed up, don't think the shape is fully correct for actual planking practice as this was not tapered at all, but it allowed the last 2 strakes to fit easily enough.   The other benefit was that the final strake had a straight side which made shaping that much easier.  Glue was only used very sparingly on a few strakes and frames where necessary to keep the lines true.  After each strake was positioned, the surface was sanded lightly and diluted PVA glue  brushed on to the whole to hopefully add some additional strength.
 

 

 
Finally, here's a comparison of the hull form to the resin Cutter mini-kit supplied by CC, I bought this way back with the kit.  This looks much more like a launch rather than the sleeker Cutter's lines and overall proportions very different.  To my eye the stern fascia is probably a little big proportionally but need to consider that the keel strip is not yet installed which will change the proportion, but will probably reduce this a little by thinning down the planking thickness there.  Rather than put on a second layer of planks, I'm considering using card stock as a second 'planking' layer to represent clinker planking.  It needs something because when the interior is sanded down the hull could be wafer thin...to quote Mr Creosote.  Any thoughts or experiences with this?
 
Next steps will be to cut and install custom bow and keel pieces, and remove the bizarre sternpost aft of the stern bulkhead that doesn't seem prototypical.  
 

 
 

Thanks chaps for the ongoing interest and support.
 
Continuing to feel my way through this.  I really wanted to make the kit materials work, but had to go off on my own which was educational, and more fun than I expected.  I managed to get only 3 strakes of the walnut strip, with tapering, on before it became apparent that no more could be done - even with these some clinkering was unavoidable even with the thin strip.  The thin 0.5mm walnut strips (all of varying thickness and closer to 0.65mm thick) don't edge bend at all to be able to use that technique and luckily some ~1mm thick wood sheet was found from which spiled planks could be cut (not sure what it is, CMB had supplied this when I ordered maple, but it clearly isn't and my guess is its limewood sheet, its pretty soft).  You can see the curvature required below.  The keel former was cut back to provide a slight rebate for the planking at bow and stern, fiddly and a bit messy but seemed to work.  Glad the more structural work is behind me.
 

 
The garboard was installed before the planking was closed up, don't think the shape is fully correct for actual planking practice as this was not tapered at all, but it allowed the last 2 strakes to fit easily enough.   The other benefit was that the final strake had a straight side which made shaping that much easier.  Glue was only used very sparingly on a few strakes and frames where necessary to keep the lines true.  After each strake was positioned, the surface was sanded lightly and diluted PVA glue  brushed on to the whole to hopefully add some additional strength.
 

 

 
Finally, here's a comparison of the hull form to the resin Cutter mini-kit supplied by CC, I bought this way back with the kit.  This looks much more like a launch rather than the sleeker Cutter's lines and overall proportions very different.  To my eye the stern fascia is probably a little big proportionally but need to consider that the keel strip is not yet installed which will change the proportion, but will probably reduce this a little by thinning down the planking thickness there.  Rather than put on a second layer of planks, I'm considering using card stock as a second 'planking' layer to represent clinker planking.  It needs something because when the interior is sanded down the hull could be wafer thin...to quote Mr Creosote.  Any thoughts or experiences with this?
 
Next steps will be to cut and install custom bow and keel pieces, and remove the bizarre sternpost aft of the stern bulkhead that doesn't seem prototypical.  
 

 
 

The Main Mast Shrouds are now in place and awaiting Ratlines ..  I want to set the Back Stays up next though then look at that Fore Stay Mouse (and tidy up all the loose rigging etc) before moving onto knocking up a pair of Anchor Buoys.
 
All The Best Folks and a Big Thank You to all Posters and Likes, without ye looking in I would have a much poorer build here !
 
Eamonn
 
 
 
 

Thanks chaps for the ongoing interest and support.
 
Continuing to feel my way through this.  I really wanted to make the kit materials work, but had to go off on my own which was educational, and more fun than I expected.  I managed to get only 3 strakes of the walnut strip, with tapering, on before it became apparent that no more could be done - even with these some clinkering was unavoidable even with the thin strip.  The thin 0.5mm walnut strips (all of varying thickness and closer to 0.65mm thick) don't edge bend at all to be able to use that technique and luckily some ~1mm thick wood sheet was found from which spiled planks could be cut (not sure what it is, CMB had supplied this when I ordered maple, but it clearly isn't and my guess is its limewood sheet, its pretty soft).  You can see the curvature required below.  The keel former was cut back to provide a slight rebate for the planking at bow and stern, fiddly and a bit messy but seemed to work.  Glad the more structural work is behind me.
 

 
The garboard was installed before the planking was closed up, don't think the shape is fully correct for actual planking practice as this was not tapered at all, but it allowed the last 2 strakes to fit easily enough.   The other benefit was that the final strake had a straight side which made shaping that much easier.  Glue was only used very sparingly on a few strakes and frames where necessary to keep the lines true.  After each strake was positioned, the surface was sanded lightly and diluted PVA glue  brushed on to the whole to hopefully add some additional strength.
 

 

 
Finally, here's a comparison of the hull form to the resin Cutter mini-kit supplied by CC, I bought this way back with the kit.  This looks much more like a launch rather than the sleeker Cutter's lines and overall proportions very different.  To my eye the stern fascia is probably a little big proportionally but need to consider that the keel strip is not yet installed which will change the proportion, but will probably reduce this a little by thinning down the planking thickness there.  Rather than put on a second layer of planks, I'm considering using card stock as a second 'planking' layer to represent clinker planking.  It needs something because when the interior is sanded down the hull could be wafer thin...to quote Mr Creosote.  Any thoughts or experiences with this?
 
Next steps will be to cut and install custom bow and keel pieces, and remove the bizarre sternpost aft of the stern bulkhead that doesn't seem prototypical.  
 

 
 

Just in awe of your work Thomas, and thankyou for showing the details.  These would be amazing at twice the size, what you've achieved at 1:64 is just incredible.  Definite eye-candy, pleasure to watch your continued progress.

Thanks chaps for the ongoing interest and support.
 
Continuing to feel my way through this.  I really wanted to make the kit materials work, but had to go off on my own which was educational, and more fun than I expected.  I managed to get only 3 strakes of the walnut strip, with tapering, on before it became apparent that no more could be done - even with these some clinkering was unavoidable even with the thin strip.  The thin 0.5mm walnut strips (all of varying thickness and closer to 0.65mm thick) don't edge bend at all to be able to use that technique and luckily some ~1mm thick wood sheet was found from which spiled planks could be cut (not sure what it is, CMB had supplied this when I ordered maple, but it clearly isn't and my guess is its limewood sheet, its pretty soft).  You can see the curvature required below.  The keel former was cut back to provide a slight rebate for the planking at bow and stern, fiddly and a bit messy but seemed to work.  Glad the more structural work is behind me.
 

 
The garboard was installed before the planking was closed up, don't think the shape is fully correct for actual planking practice as this was not tapered at all, but it allowed the last 2 strakes to fit easily enough.   The other benefit was that the final strake had a straight side which made shaping that much easier.  Glue was only used very sparingly on a few strakes and frames where necessary to keep the lines true.  After each strake was positioned, the surface was sanded lightly and diluted PVA glue  brushed on to the whole to hopefully add some additional strength.
 

 

 
Finally, here's a comparison of the hull form to the resin Cutter mini-kit supplied by CC, I bought this way back with the kit.  This looks much more like a launch rather than the sleeker Cutter's lines and overall proportions very different.  To my eye the stern fascia is probably a little big proportionally but need to consider that the keel strip is not yet installed which will change the proportion, but will probably reduce this a little by thinning down the planking thickness there.  Rather than put on a second layer of planks, I'm considering using card stock as a second 'planking' layer to represent clinker planking.  It needs something because when the interior is sanded down the hull could be wafer thin...to quote Mr Creosote.  Any thoughts or experiences with this?
 
Next steps will be to cut and install custom bow and keel pieces, and remove the bizarre sternpost aft of the stern bulkhead that doesn't seem prototypical.  
 

 
 

Thanks chaps for the ongoing interest and support.
 
Continuing to feel my way through this.  I really wanted to make the kit materials work, but had to go off on my own which was educational, and more fun than I expected.  I managed to get only 3 strakes of the walnut strip, with tapering, on before it became apparent that no more could be done - even with these some clinkering was unavoidable even with the thin strip.  The thin 0.5mm walnut strips (all of varying thickness and closer to 0.65mm thick) don't edge bend at all to be able to use that technique and luckily some ~1mm thick wood sheet was found from which spiled planks could be cut (not sure what it is, CMB had supplied this when I ordered maple, but it clearly isn't and my guess is its limewood sheet, its pretty soft).  You can see the curvature required below.  The keel former was cut back to provide a slight rebate for the planking at bow and stern, fiddly and a bit messy but seemed to work.  Glad the more structural work is behind me.
 

 
The garboard was installed before the planking was closed up, don't think the shape is fully correct for actual planking practice as this was not tapered at all, but it allowed the last 2 strakes to fit easily enough.   The other benefit was that the final strake had a straight side which made shaping that much easier.  Glue was only used very sparingly on a few strakes and frames where necessary to keep the lines true.  After each strake was positioned, the surface was sanded lightly and diluted PVA glue  brushed on to the whole to hopefully add some additional strength.
 

 

 
Finally, here's a comparison of the hull form to the resin Cutter mini-kit supplied by CC, I bought this way back with the kit.  This looks much more like a launch rather than the sleeker Cutter's lines and overall proportions very different.  To my eye the stern fascia is probably a little big proportionally but need to consider that the keel strip is not yet installed which will change the proportion, but will probably reduce this a little by thinning down the planking thickness there.  Rather than put on a second layer of planks, I'm considering using card stock as a second 'planking' layer to represent clinker planking.  It needs something because when the interior is sanded down the hull could be wafer thin...to quote Mr Creosote.  Any thoughts or experiences with this?
 
Next steps will be to cut and install custom bow and keel pieces, and remove the bizarre sternpost aft of the stern bulkhead that doesn't seem prototypical.  
 

 
 

Nice to see the update Stergios.  Don't think there is any problem not adding the additional stays in place, just be careful to ensure you put them on before any of the running rigging for the yards goes on that would go over the standing rigging.

Hi all
I got to spend some time Time on my build amid all the spring yard work and planting. I rigged up the anchors along with the anchor bouys. The bouys are currently attached to the anchors but the lines are just laying on the deck until I get the first few rat lines installed. Then I can mount the bouys to those and the shear pole. I put a question out there regarding the shear poles in the mast and rigging section but did not get any responses. 

Also got the Mizzen mast and fore and main topmasts in place. I plan on attacking the Mizzen shrouds next and the the rest of the masts so I can work on the standing rigging some more. This is what she looks like to date. 

Just need to find some blocks of time to keep plugging away at her. 
Tom

Hope ye Are All Enjoying The Weekend Folks ..  Just a quick Update from today's activities..
 
The Fore Mast Dead Eyes are all completed, next up the Main Mast which only has a pair each side..  These are partially served to just below the Gaff (as per the Fore Mast shrouds) and I will try to get them fitted tomorrow or Monday..  Then I'm going to take Dirks advice and see if I can serve the Mouse on the Fore Stay...
 
Here's a few photos of what it looks like at the moment ..
 
All The Best Folks And Thank You For Looking In.
 
Eamonn
 
Edit ..  Forgot to mention the After most Shroud Port & Starboard are Served over their Full Length..
 
 
 

Thanks chaps for the ongoing interest and support.
 
Continuing to feel my way through this.  I really wanted to make the kit materials work, but had to go off on my own which was educational, and more fun than I expected.  I managed to get only 3 strakes of the walnut strip, with tapering, on before it became apparent that no more could be done - even with these some clinkering was unavoidable even with the thin strip.  The thin 0.5mm walnut strips (all of varying thickness and closer to 0.65mm thick) don't edge bend at all to be able to use that technique and luckily some ~1mm thick wood sheet was found from which spiled planks could be cut (not sure what it is, CMB had supplied this when I ordered maple, but it clearly isn't and my guess is its limewood sheet, its pretty soft).  You can see the curvature required below.  The keel former was cut back to provide a slight rebate for the planking at bow and stern, fiddly and a bit messy but seemed to work.  Glad the more structural work is behind me.
 

 
The garboard was installed before the planking was closed up, don't think the shape is fully correct for actual planking practice as this was not tapered at all, but it allowed the last 2 strakes to fit easily enough.   The other benefit was that the final strake had a straight side which made shaping that much easier.  Glue was only used very sparingly on a few strakes and frames where necessary to keep the lines true.  After each strake was positioned, the surface was sanded lightly and diluted PVA glue  brushed on to the whole to hopefully add some additional strength.
 

 

 
Finally, here's a comparison of the hull form to the resin Cutter mini-kit supplied by CC, I bought this way back with the kit.  This looks much more like a launch rather than the sleeker Cutter's lines and overall proportions very different.  To my eye the stern fascia is probably a little big proportionally but need to consider that the keel strip is not yet installed which will change the proportion, but will probably reduce this a little by thinning down the planking thickness there.  Rather than put on a second layer of planks, I'm considering using card stock as a second 'planking' layer to represent clinker planking.  It needs something because when the interior is sanded down the hull could be wafer thin...to quote Mr Creosote.  Any thoughts or experiences with this?
 
Next steps will be to cut and install custom bow and keel pieces, and remove the bizarre sternpost aft of the stern bulkhead that doesn't seem prototypical.  
 

 
 

so with lining boards corrected, I attached the gunport lids.  Fairly straightforward ….except the top of the forward gunport was too close to the sheer rails (the alignment problem again) which meant the lowering ropes would be either be very close to the lid or would enter the hull via the sheer rail which I don't think is accurate: I left them off.  I used a little PVA glue on each line which, when it dried, meant the line was stiff enough to feed through the side-side holes and also look under tension (ish).
 
I'll finish the head rails next.
 
Keep smiling.
 
Peter   

An update.  I persevered with the various channels and deadeye block fitting and before long they were completed.  The smaller 3mm deadeyes blocks do rattle in the slots which made securing awkward, I needed a tiny piece of blu-tack to hold them whilst tying the note; once under tension they held their place.  I also needed to be careful to not to try and force the 5mm deadeyes into the slots in too hard a fashion, unfortunately I did so on one occasion, rushing and not adjusting the size of the strap and the inevitable happened - the channel broke away from the ships side! Repairs were completed and blocks inserted properly.  I covered the outside of the channels with trimmed 3x0.5mm walnut to close the deadeye slots, then sanded and painted it black.  They don't look too bad....

I then attached the various ship side fittings - scuppers, ventilator scuttles and oar ports. I used box wood to match the side...still haven't mastered the brass blackening process; it still seems to rub off with undue ease....so a combination of watered paint and partially blackened fittings.  Next step was to fit the anchor linings which wasn't as easy as it should have been largely because of the slight misalignment of gunwale and the mizzen channel - the gap was too large, in addition the channel was too close (by 2mm) to No 1 gunport as a consequence of jiggling to ensure the various chain links didn't cross the gun openings.  Can't be helped.  I trimmed the lining to achieve the right size whilst also fixing 1x2mm wood strips to plug the gap and which also allowed room for the stunsail boom brackets to be fitted later.  To compound it all, I then fitted the linings the wrong way round, well it is a learning process - start again, remove, replace!  

Thanks chaps for the ongoing interest and support.
 
Continuing to feel my way through this.  I really wanted to make the kit materials work, but had to go off on my own which was educational, and more fun than I expected.  I managed to get only 3 strakes of the walnut strip, with tapering, on before it became apparent that no more could be done - even with these some clinkering was unavoidable even with the thin strip.  The thin 0.5mm walnut strips (all of varying thickness and closer to 0.65mm thick) don't edge bend at all to be able to use that technique and luckily some ~1mm thick wood sheet was found from which spiled planks could be cut (not sure what it is, CMB had supplied this when I ordered maple, but it clearly isn't and my guess is its limewood sheet, its pretty soft).  You can see the curvature required below.  The keel former was cut back to provide a slight rebate for the planking at bow and stern, fiddly and a bit messy but seemed to work.  Glad the more structural work is behind me.
 

 
The garboard was installed before the planking was closed up, don't think the shape is fully correct for actual planking practice as this was not tapered at all, but it allowed the last 2 strakes to fit easily enough.   The other benefit was that the final strake had a straight side which made shaping that much easier.  Glue was only used very sparingly on a few strakes and frames where necessary to keep the lines true.  After each strake was positioned, the surface was sanded lightly and diluted PVA glue  brushed on to the whole to hopefully add some additional strength.
 

 

 
Finally, here's a comparison of the hull form to the resin Cutter mini-kit supplied by CC, I bought this way back with the kit.  This looks much more like a launch rather than the sleeker Cutter's lines and overall proportions very different.  To my eye the stern fascia is probably a little big proportionally but need to consider that the keel strip is not yet installed which will change the proportion, but will probably reduce this a little by thinning down the planking thickness there.  Rather than put on a second layer of planks, I'm considering using card stock as a second 'planking' layer to represent clinker planking.  It needs something because when the interior is sanded down the hull could be wafer thin...to quote Mr Creosote.  Any thoughts or experiences with this?
 
Next steps will be to cut and install custom bow and keel pieces, and remove the bizarre sternpost aft of the stern bulkhead that doesn't seem prototypical.  
 

 
 

Thanks chaps for the ongoing interest and support.
 
Continuing to feel my way through this.  I really wanted to make the kit materials work, but had to go off on my own which was educational, and more fun than I expected.  I managed to get only 3 strakes of the walnut strip, with tapering, on before it became apparent that no more could be done - even with these some clinkering was unavoidable even with the thin strip.  The thin 0.5mm walnut strips (all of varying thickness and closer to 0.65mm thick) don't edge bend at all to be able to use that technique and luckily some ~1mm thick wood sheet was found from which spiled planks could be cut (not sure what it is, CMB had supplied this when I ordered maple, but it clearly isn't and my guess is its limewood sheet, its pretty soft).  You can see the curvature required below.  The keel former was cut back to provide a slight rebate for the planking at bow and stern, fiddly and a bit messy but seemed to work.  Glad the more structural work is behind me.
 

 
The garboard was installed before the planking was closed up, don't think the shape is fully correct for actual planking practice as this was not tapered at all, but it allowed the last 2 strakes to fit easily enough.   The other benefit was that the final strake had a straight side which made shaping that much easier.  Glue was only used very sparingly on a few strakes and frames where necessary to keep the lines true.  After each strake was positioned, the surface was sanded lightly and diluted PVA glue  brushed on to the whole to hopefully add some additional strength.
 

 

 
Finally, here's a comparison of the hull form to the resin Cutter mini-kit supplied by CC, I bought this way back with the kit.  This looks much more like a launch rather than the sleeker Cutter's lines and overall proportions very different.  To my eye the stern fascia is probably a little big proportionally but need to consider that the keel strip is not yet installed which will change the proportion, but will probably reduce this a little by thinning down the planking thickness there.  Rather than put on a second layer of planks, I'm considering using card stock as a second 'planking' layer to represent clinker planking.  It needs something because when the interior is sanded down the hull could be wafer thin...to quote Mr Creosote.  Any thoughts or experiences with this?
 
Next steps will be to cut and install custom bow and keel pieces, and remove the bizarre sternpost aft of the stern bulkhead that doesn't seem prototypical.  
 

 
 

Post seven
 
 
Second Planking
 
 
 
Before I start planking, I draw the bulkhead positions down the hull so I can mark the tick strip positions once I’m past the first few strakes.
 
 
I will be using the provided 1x4mm Pearwood strip, and apart from any other consideration, I think the colour is more appropriate for a humble fishing boat than my usual Boxwood.
 
 
I have no worries about sufficiency of the provided strip, as I still have the supply I didn’t use on the Alert build.
 
 
The Pearwood strip is of an even colour but there are some strips better than others. Each strip has a better side and I sorted them for use above and below the waterline, before starting.
 
 
Sanding will sort out most of the issues but it makes sense to use the best for the unpainted areas.
 
 
My approach is to cut the planks and then heat treat whilst dry fitting to take the tension out of the strip before gluing.
 
 
The first two strakes down from the bulwark are easy to clamp in place whilst the glue sets, but thereafter things get more tricky.
 

5341(2)
 
From the third strake down I am using plastic coated drawing pins to hold the strips in place after gluing.
 
 
These press easily into the Limewood planking and the heads are large enough to cover most of the plank width, whilst the steel pin holds the plank up tight to the one above.
 

5344
Down to the fifth strake larger clamps secured in the deck recesses suffice to hold the planks in place, along with the pins.
 

5347
Below the fifth strake the drawing pins will be the only clamping aid plus the use of ca for quick grab.
I do worry about getting ca on the Pearwood surface and have a handy bottle of Acetone to wipe down the wood surface immediately after gluing.
 
 
Useful as it is, I don’t like using ca over extensive areas, and following a test on the sixth strake I found I could restrict it to the bow and stern areas, and use pva for the rest.
 
 
In the manual Chris mentions that he was able to fit five strakes of planking without tapering.
 

5361
I found that seven strakes fitted without any need for tapering.
 

5369
Port bow

5367
Starboard stern.
 
 
I need to keep checking which way around the boat is with this ‘whaler’ shape.
 
 
The next stage will require tapering of planks, so I will fit the Garboard plank, and mark off the plank lines down the bulkhead positions using a tick strip.
 
 
B.E.
04/06/20
 
 

Thanks chaps for the ongoing interest and support.
 
Continuing to feel my way through this.  I really wanted to make the kit materials work, but had to go off on my own which was educational, and more fun than I expected.  I managed to get only 3 strakes of the walnut strip, with tapering, on before it became apparent that no more could be done - even with these some clinkering was unavoidable even with the thin strip.  The thin 0.5mm walnut strips (all of varying thickness and closer to 0.65mm thick) don't edge bend at all to be able to use that technique and luckily some ~1mm thick wood sheet was found from which spiled planks could be cut (not sure what it is, CMB had supplied this when I ordered maple, but it clearly isn't and my guess is its limewood sheet, its pretty soft).  You can see the curvature required below.  The keel former was cut back to provide a slight rebate for the planking at bow and stern, fiddly and a bit messy but seemed to work.  Glad the more structural work is behind me.
 

 
The garboard was installed before the planking was closed up, don't think the shape is fully correct for actual planking practice as this was not tapered at all, but it allowed the last 2 strakes to fit easily enough.   The other benefit was that the final strake had a straight side which made shaping that much easier.  Glue was only used very sparingly on a few strakes and frames where necessary to keep the lines true.  After each strake was positioned, the surface was sanded lightly and diluted PVA glue  brushed on to the whole to hopefully add some additional strength.
 

 

 
Finally, here's a comparison of the hull form to the resin Cutter mini-kit supplied by CC, I bought this way back with the kit.  This looks much more like a launch rather than the sleeker Cutter's lines and overall proportions very different.  To my eye the stern fascia is probably a little big proportionally but need to consider that the keel strip is not yet installed which will change the proportion, but will probably reduce this a little by thinning down the planking thickness there.  Rather than put on a second layer of planks, I'm considering using card stock as a second 'planking' layer to represent clinker planking.  It needs something because when the interior is sanded down the hull could be wafer thin...to quote Mr Creosote.  Any thoughts or experiences with this?
 
Next steps will be to cut and install custom bow and keel pieces, and remove the bizarre sternpost aft of the stern bulkhead that doesn't seem prototypical.  
 

 
 

Thanks chaps for the ongoing interest and support.
 
Continuing to feel my way through this.  I really wanted to make the kit materials work, but had to go off on my own which was educational, and more fun than I expected.  I managed to get only 3 strakes of the walnut strip, with tapering, on before it became apparent that no more could be done - even with these some clinkering was unavoidable even with the thin strip.  The thin 0.5mm walnut strips (all of varying thickness and closer to 0.65mm thick) don't edge bend at all to be able to use that technique and luckily some ~1mm thick wood sheet was found from which spiled planks could be cut (not sure what it is, CMB had supplied this when I ordered maple, but it clearly isn't and my guess is its limewood sheet, its pretty soft).  You can see the curvature required below.  The keel former was cut back to provide a slight rebate for the planking at bow and stern, fiddly and a bit messy but seemed to work.  Glad the more structural work is behind me.
 

 
The garboard was installed before the planking was closed up, don't think the shape is fully correct for actual planking practice as this was not tapered at all, but it allowed the last 2 strakes to fit easily enough.   The other benefit was that the final strake had a straight side which made shaping that much easier.  Glue was only used very sparingly on a few strakes and frames where necessary to keep the lines true.  After each strake was positioned, the surface was sanded lightly and diluted PVA glue  brushed on to the whole to hopefully add some additional strength.
 

 

 
Finally, here's a comparison of the hull form to the resin Cutter mini-kit supplied by CC, I bought this way back with the kit.  This looks much more like a launch rather than the sleeker Cutter's lines and overall proportions very different.  To my eye the stern fascia is probably a little big proportionally but need to consider that the keel strip is not yet installed which will change the proportion, but will probably reduce this a little by thinning down the planking thickness there.  Rather than put on a second layer of planks, I'm considering using card stock as a second 'planking' layer to represent clinker planking.  It needs something because when the interior is sanded down the hull could be wafer thin...to quote Mr Creosote.  Any thoughts or experiences with this?
 
Next steps will be to cut and install custom bow and keel pieces, and remove the bizarre sternpost aft of the stern bulkhead that doesn't seem prototypical.  
 

 
 

Thanks chaps for the ongoing interest and support.
 
Continuing to feel my way through this.  I really wanted to make the kit materials work, but had to go off on my own which was educational, and more fun than I expected.  I managed to get only 3 strakes of the walnut strip, with tapering, on before it became apparent that no more could be done - even with these some clinkering was unavoidable even with the thin strip.  The thin 0.5mm walnut strips (all of varying thickness and closer to 0.65mm thick) don't edge bend at all to be able to use that technique and luckily some ~1mm thick wood sheet was found from which spiled planks could be cut (not sure what it is, CMB had supplied this when I ordered maple, but it clearly isn't and my guess is its limewood sheet, its pretty soft).  You can see the curvature required below.  The keel former was cut back to provide a slight rebate for the planking at bow and stern, fiddly and a bit messy but seemed to work.  Glad the more structural work is behind me.
 

 
The garboard was installed before the planking was closed up, don't think the shape is fully correct for actual planking practice as this was not tapered at all, but it allowed the last 2 strakes to fit easily enough.   The other benefit was that the final strake had a straight side which made shaping that much easier.  Glue was only used very sparingly on a few strakes and frames where necessary to keep the lines true.  After each strake was positioned, the surface was sanded lightly and diluted PVA glue  brushed on to the whole to hopefully add some additional strength.
 

 

 
Finally, here's a comparison of the hull form to the resin Cutter mini-kit supplied by CC, I bought this way back with the kit.  This looks much more like a launch rather than the sleeker Cutter's lines and overall proportions very different.  To my eye the stern fascia is probably a little big proportionally but need to consider that the keel strip is not yet installed which will change the proportion, but will probably reduce this a little by thinning down the planking thickness there.  Rather than put on a second layer of planks, I'm considering using card stock as a second 'planking' layer to represent clinker planking.  It needs something because when the interior is sanded down the hull could be wafer thin...to quote Mr Creosote.  Any thoughts or experiences with this?
 
Next steps will be to cut and install custom bow and keel pieces, and remove the bizarre sternpost aft of the stern bulkhead that doesn't seem prototypical.  
 

 
 

I rigged the preventer topmast stay to a block on the foremast cap and the main topmast stay to a block under the fore top. Check the pictures in build log if you are interested.
 
The link is in my signature. 
 
Most of my rigging came from the brig Irene book.