Beef Wellington

Looking good David.  I think you're at a nice stage where you can work on a number of things simultaneously, which can be nice to keep changing the pace, especially the all interior main deck fittings and cannons.  One thing I'm sure you've read from all the other Diana builds is the challenge with getting appropriate alignment at the stern, and how this ties into the lines of the wale.  I tend to start planning as soon as I can and leave final installation until as late as I can to avoid as many unexpected surprises as possible.  That may allow you to make any fine adjustments needed to the placement of the wale which doesn't need to go on just yet.  I'd also recommend figuring out the placement of the mid-ship beams which will require you cut into the lime planking and nice to get this out of the way without having to worry about damaging anything down the road.

The Mizzen has arisen:
 
I can see why build logs tend to neglect rigging relegating it to a bit of a dark art - its so hard to reach a point where one can step back and say 'done' because nothing quite seems to get finished before its necessary to do something else before its too late.  Anyway, the mizzen rigging is now essentially complete.  This area proved to one of the more challenging so far 'learning the ropes', but also just because of the increased fiddliness factor and decreased access.  The plans also proved more challenging in this area due to their either lack of clarity or incompleteness.
 
Before starting, this was my last chance to address some things that have been annoying me.  The kit supplied ladders going to the stern platform just seemed too bulky, so these were ripped off and replaced with custom made items that just felt a little more to scale, and less visually obtrusive.  These proved challenging to make in walnut due to the splinter factor, but necessary to avoid introducing a new wood.  The ships wheel was also given some coats of a wash to try and make it a bit attractive from the flat brown colour I had used way back when I started (Pre-fix situation below):
 

 

 
Rigging could then proceed, planning ahead proved key due to the many elements that need to be fitted in a very tight space, especially below the tops (tye, parrels throat halliard etc).   Petersson's Rigging Period Ship Models and Lever's Young Officers Sheet Anchor provide invaluable to bridge contradictions and lack of clarity in the plans.  Items of note as follows:
Boom Sheets - went with single vs a double arrangement as illustrated on the plans as I couldn't find another example like this Gaff throat halliard - the positioning of the gaff is slightly different on each plan, I had to lower my original placement to allow for the two double 5mm blocks, luckily the pin hole was obscured Single boom horse - Common practice seems to have a knotted horses on either side of the boom.  I just couldn't get this to look right and the image of a young schoolboy with rather large and unruly ears kept coming to mind....so in the end I just went with a single and it seems to do the trick other than to purists. Blocks for main topsail brace - One of the first blocks I had installed has to be removed, a double block on the mizzen for the main topsail braces as indicated on the plans.  It was clear that this just wouldn't work with the crossjack and gaff in place as it needs to sit above the gaff.  I elected to remove and replace with 2 single 5mm blocks with a longer clearance from the mast to avoid interfering with the various rigging elements in this space as illustrated in Petersson.  These are held temporarily in place with sewing thread. Close up pictures of where things ended up that hopefully can assist others (errors are of course mine):
 

 
Finally, some overall shots...

 
 

Good Evening Mark;
 
Take a look at the pictures below, which come from Rob Napier's book about his repairs to the Princess Royal, published by Sea Watch books. This has a wealth of colour pictures of the internal features which are normally almost unseen.
 
These show some good views of the roundhouse on this model. The doors are much narrower, and parallel sided. 
 
All the best,
 
Mark P
 
 
 
 
 




 
 
 
 

Further evidence that the roundhouse has to be at the level of the platform; the side slopes in so far that access to it would disappear at the upper deck level. I am now showing the seat tucked around the corner, as in the last post. But interesting question as to how a door would be hung on the roundhouse. It would have to be hung on the inboard post, and would be a trapezoid (trapezium outside North America?) in shape. And I would think pretty annoying to try to get around it while squeezing into the opening.
 
OK, enough of this, back to planking!
 

So I have been able to get some of the painting done.  It seems to have some out fairly well.  Not sure how many coats but probably 12ish I think.
 

 
 
Moving on to the panels.  Following picture is just a dry fit.  these are really delicate and I am glad I have a few extras.
 

 
still need to the forward panel.  With what is left over I think those will be 2 of the 4 panels in the middle fo the picture as they are slightly curved in an arc and should be able to be bent "just a bit" to fit the front curvature.
 

 
very glad for the few extras 'just in case'
 
 

++++++Latest .. Hot Off The Press ++++++
 
Schooner stay In Place.. Not fully Tightened Yet.. Next Up Probably The Fore stay.
 
Had a 'Moment' when I was checking the Blocks (Opening out the wee holes a little ) on the Fore Mast  (I glued it a couple of days ago, Or So I Thought   ) suffice to say the whole mast moved Ahhhhhhh ! So back to the Gluing and waiting, then some more waiting as the glue set, so I used the time to get the Schooner Stay ready.. Then this morning I rigged it and took this awful photo of it    I will take better ones tomorrow when my nerves settle down from rigging it.. just kiddin.. 🙄😁  It didn't go too badly !
All The Best Folks
 
Eamonn
Oh, The Wee Man is there again for scale ..

I have attached copper plates directly to unfinished (other than sanded) wood without issue using higher viscosity CA.  One consideration is that using plates invariably leaves very slight gaps (probably depending on skill level!) so having a 'similar' colour underneath helps minimize the visibility of these imperfections.

You are on the way!  P

greetings Peter 
                          Yep !! The fitting of the plates is tedious, I have just ripped a few off this morning. I started fitting the Victory tiles working down from the waterline, and you can see I had no problem at all with them by the photos. As I said earlier I am fitting these from the keel upward, which appears to be the way to go, but the quality of the work is very poor. I will carry on working upwards and hope it improves, but if I am not happy I will rip them off and start again from the waterline. Your work continues to be excellent as always, well done.  Hello Keith good to hear from you, how are you keeping ?   Don’t rush with the dark room there’s plenty of time.  Best regards  DAVID.        ( photos Victory coppering,  others Diana coppering so far. )

The next task was attaching the quarterdeck fittings.  On the plans, the skylight and the bitts are very close the mast; almost touching.  To check the alignment, I inserted the mizzen mast …..hhmmm!  In the plans the mizzen mast does lie aft - presumably by design so that the mast takes the tension created by the force of the wind whilst transferring the force into the hull through he stays (all the masts lie slightly aft).  The main mast and foremast nest neatly into the precut slots - the mizzen is very tight and doesn't drop into the slots easily, I ma sure I checked it when the gun deck was fitted, however something seems amiss and seems overly skewed...I think it should be close tot he vertical.  Not sure what to do here.  Any thoughts?    
 
When in doubt, stop...do something else whilst mulling over things.  
 
Peter  

Things that didn't go so well.  I have to say, I have problems with ladders in this kit - I don't like the wood, the cut or ...the final look! Sadly, I don't have the machinery to make alternatives so I have had to persevere with the items supplied.  I have been careful to cut the ladder steps to the exact size and have tried to straighten the ladder side wood but they are too fragile and tend to delaminate easily.  I managed to attach the top and bottom steps, then inserted the part assembled ladder into a small vice to hold the tension, and to stop the sides popping open, as each step was inserted (they are quite stiff fittings) - I used some superglue to ensure the fittings held.  It looks coarse and clumsy even with a fine sand and a light varnish....good job it is hidden away!  
 
More pleasing was the central barricade - I decided to leave the central columns unpainted (just a light varnish0 which I think makes a more pleasing fitting.
 
Forwards...backwards! 

Latest update - progress hasn't been fast; despite the lockdown and working from home which I thought would wold mean more time, I am actually working harder than when in the office! Thye model has had to play second fiddle.  Nevertheless, I have progressed some of the main deck fittings, the 9 pounders and I have also fitted the channels on both sides. 
 
Not real problems with these- shortening nails, marking the channels to ensure they are clear of the gunports and chamfering the edges to ensure a tight hull fit we all fairly humdrum.  Pleasingly, she is beginning to look a mature model rather than one in the early stages of build. 
 

Following completion of the deck planking I completed the quarterdeck and midships capping rails out of 5x2mm beech. I am afraid the transition from ax to midships didn't look quite right so I improvised and moulded a bit of beech around the curves of the midships section.  Not as per plan but for some reason my model's bulwarks seem a little low; not to worry  it looks fine.  
 
I started on the bow area.  Having assembled the various pieces, effected the gluing and painting, I came to fit the various gratings and catheads.  Not for nothing do the instructions highlight that building the bow is the hardest part of the model - it very much is!!  I have not been able to achieve the correct levels and positioning therefore I have had to tweak the lower rail extensions to allow the hawse pipe/anchor fairleads to fit.  I will attach the lower rail extension shortly and will run them from the back of the hawse fitting tot he base of the cathead: another deviation but again to the non expert eye (no comments from you lot) will be entirely acceptable. 
 
The forecastle gratings look awkward so I am minded to follow Rob and build my own - before or after I fit the bowspit and do the gammoning....that is the question? Hmmm.
 
All somewhat annoying as I'm not sure where I went wrong...be careful!
 
I've also started on the deck furniture.  Ill do a few of the guns before lookin at the hullside fittings.  I would rather get all those out of the way before starting the mizzen channels and associated rigging blocks.
 
Onwards and upwards.
 
Peter   

Hi druxey and Ron,
 
By jove, I think you two together got it! Pushing the seat off center into the outboard side leaves plenty of room to actually crawl in the roundhouse with room to sit. Just no room for the rack for copies of the London Times.😏 It is a bit of a bend to get in, but not hugely worse than the quarter gallery doors for the officers. They all were just more nimble back then, I guess.
 
And Ron, please do keep posting pictures like that. It was immensely helpful!
 
Mark

Hi Mark,
 
You always have the most interesting questions!   I'm not sure this is any help, again photos from Victory--not your ship--but the first photo shows the access door to the roundhouse as a small vestibule with a door at the deck level.  You can just see the ladder steps (look under the hammocks that are in the way), and that horizontal gleam just below eye level inside is the "seat".

 
 
Here is the interior of the roundhouse (looking from deck level)--

 
And finally from a little farther back showing the vestibule and door on the left, and on the right edge the steps leading up to the bow platform--

 
 
Ron
 
PS. If you would rather not have these photos cluttering your excellent log, let me know, I'll delete them.
 

New wood from Model-Dockyard arrived-much better. Edges are sharp and not falling apart-good.
 
Started with planking but noticed that stern but will not fit properly. Ingiess i didnt tapper as much as i was supposed to(not every plank).
 
So i got an excuse to rip that old bad wood apart and start again with tappering and better wood.
 
Planks are sitting well now. I taper almost half each plank and i think it goes like that until the mid part.
 
Only thing with new wood is that it has many different colors-photos show that really well. Still decided not to start sorting it. As it will give a vharecter and also sanding will equal it a bit.

I have attached copper plates directly to unfinished (other than sanded) wood without issue using higher viscosity CA.  One consideration is that using plates invariably leaves very slight gaps (probably depending on skill level!) so having a 'similar' colour underneath helps minimize the visibility of these imperfections.

I have attached copper plates directly to unfinished (other than sanded) wood without issue using higher viscosity CA.  One consideration is that using plates invariably leaves very slight gaps (probably depending on skill level!) so having a 'similar' colour underneath helps minimize the visibility of these imperfections.

I have attached copper plates directly to unfinished (other than sanded) wood without issue using higher viscosity CA.  One consideration is that using plates invariably leaves very slight gaps (probably depending on skill level!) so having a 'similar' colour underneath helps minimize the visibility of these imperfections.

We will never see such a sight again - 1813

HMShips Starling and Wild Goose Set out for another U boat hunt While a Norwegian Tanker heads upstream With another cargo to help 'The Few' to keep flying.
14” X 9” watercolour.

AMC 'Saxonia' and Hospital ship 'Wandilla' On the river Mersey during WW1. The ship with the Red Funnel is Saxonia in her civilian dress.
W/C 14” X 10”

On with more planking. I am working on the channel wale, which blessedly does not have any ports interrupting it until the last 4 ports astern.
I am finding it quite efficient to plot the upper edge of each plank at various points along its length, and then put in a fair line using the artist's tape. Much easier than trying to fit a flexible curve, which is also impossible once the piece is steamed and bent. Also, I have learned to cut the upper edge of the planks a little full, so I can fair the whole edge with a curved sanding block once installed.

A plank in the second strake up makes a wicked curve from convex to concave as it proceeds aft, and it also twists quite dramatically. That would have been something to see in the actual shipyard. that one plank took about 5 hours to shape and install:
 

And here is progress to date. Nice to see those boo-boos from 15 years ago disappear under planking at last. I see that I will have to make a sanding jig to later level the channel wale to an even projection from the lower planking. Not sure why this is wavering a bit.
 

Mark
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks - much appreciated. I'm just glad wood tolerates mistakes more than some materials. 
 
Here's a picture I forgot to post earlier. Mmmm. The upper rails don't quite look even in this view, and they finish inexplicably short of the prow. 
More tweaking required!
 

Derek
 
 

Silly mistakes, Part 2
 
I said in an earlier post that no kit is idiot proof, and I've demonstrated it again with two more elementary and entirely avoidable mistakes. 
 
First, I ignored the instructions and forgot to sand the inner bulwarks before I fitted the cap rails. As a result the bulwarks were too thick in places, with the cap rail flush with the inner bulwark rather than slightly overlapping it. This would look wrong, especially with the pin racks in place, so I had to fix it. I considered removing the cap rails but didn't think I could do so without damaging them. I could have made new ones, but in the end I decided to sand the offending planks with the cap rail in place. I managed the best I could with various scrapers and a small contour sanding tool. 

The second mistake was even sillier. In order to protect the boxwood I'd applied a couple of coats of matt polyurethane on top of two coats of rubbed-down shellac. Forgetting of course that I had to stick the upper rails and swivel plates to the hull. Needless to say they wouldn't stick,  so I had to rub down my carefully applied poly. 
 
If the only thing this log's good for is to help others avoid similar silly mistakes (whilst laughing at me for making them!) then it'll be worth it.
 
Painting the rails before fixing them to the hull saves grief later on.
 

Like everything else in the kit these are cleverly designed, made so that the rails run in a continuous line  across gun and sweep ports. When stuck firm, you remove the sections crossing the ports with the result that the remaining sections follow the line of the sheer perfectly. The next job was to fit the swivel gun posts and bases - more sanding back of painted surfaces!

Finally, after a fair amount of fettling and titivating I reapplied the matt poly.
 

The boxwood is really starting to look the part.
 
Before I go much further I need to decide what to do about the stern counter side timber. But that can wait 'til tomorrow.
 
Derek