Beef Wellington

Thanks for the comments, encouragement & the "Likes".
 
I added a small lip or foot to the brackets. This was very small detail & a lot of extra time but I thought they looked a little better this way. Kept losing the darned little things so I strung them all on a wire loop - lost none after that. Pinned them through the lugs with wire & managed to keep them all movable somehow. (sorry some of the pictures didn't come out focused very well)
 

A little update.
 
I have measure the frames to see where the gun ports has to come....
It was not that easy.
On one side I've done it 3 times before I was happy.
And fingers crossed that they are on the right place.
The only thing to find out is to open the gates with a drill, knife and file......
 
Sjors
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 

Very nice work on the carronades Jesse, these things always seem to take way longer than they should :-)  Love the detailed close up pics, really nice.

Very nice work on the carronades Jesse, these things always seem to take way longer than they should :-)  Love the detailed close up pics, really nice.

Well, as promised here are the pics from my visit to Kealakekua Bay on Hawai'i Island.  Not build-log related but sort of relevant.  Top photo is from the beach, interesting comparison to the contemporary print, more overgrown but thats to be expected.  The locals try to limit access to beach (its prime snorkelling water) but all that has done has resulted in a tour companies dropping people off by boat, hence the scores of people in the background.  Anyway, what has not really changed is the rugged nature of the rock which does come across in the print, even on a calm day it must have been quite challenging to keep boat alongside to pick up the shore party.  There are some ruins of Hawai'ian drystone walls amongst the trees which does support the 'village' in the print's background.
 
Bottom pic is me looking as happy as I could at the Cook monument, I took the 8 mile walk down which is only way to access by land on a brutal path of volcanic rock path in sweltering heat.  Monument is officially British soil, and is close to where he died.  There is another plaque (which I couldn't find) that also marks the spot which also states that 'nearby' Cook was killed.
 
Trip has moved on, I'm now on the Island of Kaui, which interestingly was the place where Cook first stepped ashore in the Sandwich/Hawai'ian Islands.  So will need to bookend this trip with a visit to that spot as well....
 

 

 

Very nice work on the carronades Jesse, these things always seem to take way longer than they should :-)  Love the detailed close up pics, really nice.

Very nice work on the carronades Jesse, these things always seem to take way longer than they should :-)  Love the detailed close up pics, really nice.

Well, as promised here are the pics from my visit to Kealakekua Bay on Hawai'i Island.  Not build-log related but sort of relevant.  Top photo is from the beach, interesting comparison to the contemporary print, more overgrown but thats to be expected.  The locals try to limit access to beach (its prime snorkelling water) but all that has done has resulted in a tour companies dropping people off by boat, hence the scores of people in the background.  Anyway, what has not really changed is the rugged nature of the rock which does come across in the print, even on a calm day it must have been quite challenging to keep boat alongside to pick up the shore party.  There are some ruins of Hawai'ian drystone walls amongst the trees which does support the 'village' in the print's background.
 
Bottom pic is me looking as happy as I could at the Cook monument, I took the 8 mile walk down which is only way to access by land on a brutal path of volcanic rock path in sweltering heat.  Monument is officially British soil, and is close to where he died.  There is another plaque (which I couldn't find) that also marks the spot which also states that 'nearby' Cook was killed.
 
Trip has moved on, I'm now on the Island of Kaui, which interestingly was the place where Cook first stepped ashore in the Sandwich/Hawai'ian Islands.  So will need to bookend this trip with a visit to that spot as well....
 

 

 

Well, as promised here are the pics from my visit to Kealakekua Bay on Hawai'i Island.  Not build-log related but sort of relevant.  Top photo is from the beach, interesting comparison to the contemporary print, more overgrown but thats to be expected.  The locals try to limit access to beach (its prime snorkelling water) but all that has done has resulted in a tour companies dropping people off by boat, hence the scores of people in the background.  Anyway, what has not really changed is the rugged nature of the rock which does come across in the print, even on a calm day it must have been quite challenging to keep boat alongside to pick up the shore party.  There are some ruins of Hawai'ian drystone walls amongst the trees which does support the 'village' in the print's background.
 
Bottom pic is me looking as happy as I could at the Cook monument, I took the 8 mile walk down which is only way to access by land on a brutal path of volcanic rock path in sweltering heat.  Monument is officially British soil, and is close to where he died.  There is another plaque (which I couldn't find) that also marks the spot which also states that 'nearby' Cook was killed.
 
Trip has moved on, I'm now on the Island of Kaui, which interestingly was the place where Cook first stepped ashore in the Sandwich/Hawai'ian Islands.  So will need to bookend this trip with a visit to that spot as well....
 

 

 

Well, as promised here are the pics from my visit to Kealakekua Bay on Hawai'i Island.  Not build-log related but sort of relevant.  Top photo is from the beach, interesting comparison to the contemporary print, more overgrown but thats to be expected.  The locals try to limit access to beach (its prime snorkelling water) but all that has done has resulted in a tour companies dropping people off by boat, hence the scores of people in the background.  Anyway, what has not really changed is the rugged nature of the rock which does come across in the print, even on a calm day it must have been quite challenging to keep boat alongside to pick up the shore party.  There are some ruins of Hawai'ian drystone walls amongst the trees which does support the 'village' in the print's background.
 
Bottom pic is me looking as happy as I could at the Cook monument, I took the 8 mile walk down which is only way to access by land on a brutal path of volcanic rock path in sweltering heat.  Monument is officially British soil, and is close to where he died.  There is another plaque (which I couldn't find) that also marks the spot which also states that 'nearby' Cook was killed.
 
Trip has moved on, I'm now on the Island of Kaui, which interestingly was the place where Cook first stepped ashore in the Sandwich/Hawai'ian Islands.  So will need to bookend this trip with a visit to that spot as well....
 

 

 

Well, as promised here are the pics from my visit to Kealakekua Bay on Hawai'i Island.  Not build-log related but sort of relevant.  Top photo is from the beach, interesting comparison to the contemporary print, more overgrown but thats to be expected.  The locals try to limit access to beach (its prime snorkelling water) but all that has done has resulted in a tour companies dropping people off by boat, hence the scores of people in the background.  Anyway, what has not really changed is the rugged nature of the rock which does come across in the print, even on a calm day it must have been quite challenging to keep boat alongside to pick up the shore party.  There are some ruins of Hawai'ian drystone walls amongst the trees which does support the 'village' in the print's background.
 
Bottom pic is me looking as happy as I could at the Cook monument, I took the 8 mile walk down which is only way to access by land on a brutal path of volcanic rock path in sweltering heat.  Monument is officially British soil, and is close to where he died.  There is another plaque (which I couldn't find) that also marks the spot which also states that 'nearby' Cook was killed.
 
Trip has moved on, I'm now on the Island of Kaui, which interestingly was the place where Cook first stepped ashore in the Sandwich/Hawai'ian Islands.  So will need to bookend this trip with a visit to that spot as well....
 

 

 

I would have to make one request.  Of course like everyone I'm biased by nationality and interest, but I think there are a couple of ships from the age of sail that are not represented in any kit form which seems a real hole in the market, I'm talking about HMS Trincomalee and the frigate Unicorn, both Leda class frigates and a very successful design - HMS Shannon of Chesapeake fame was also a Leda.  Given the ships are still in existance I suspect that these would have a lot of interest similar to the other ships (or even replicas) that seem to generate so much interest.  The class also crossed over the changes from the flat to rounded stern so could make for some very interesting modeling.
 
Another interesting ship is the RRS Discovery (famous for Scott's ill-fated voyage to the South Pole) berthed in Dundee (within sight of Unicorn in fact) which again I think generates interest for its historic value and the fact that she is also still in existence.
 
Preferred Scale - 1:64.  I'm not retired so have a bit more flexibility with finances but believe in getting value for money and not just the cost side - current Caldercraft/Amati price point seem reasonable, however I prefer to pay extra for option of better wood, I'm tired of dealing with the ubiquitous walnut....

Sjors - maybe these photos will help you make up your mind    The planking is not as beautiful as I think you think because of the different woods used, copper was always the plan.
 
Believe I reached a point to deliver a verdict on the Amati plates and share some progress now that copper has met boxwood.  I know that there seem to be many diverse opinions on coppering, and it does present its own uniquw challenges.  Its also amazing how many varied diagrams there are of copper plate layouts.  In the end, I probably ended up somewhere between what is shown in the AOTS Pandora book and TFFM book 2.
 
So, some thoughts on the Caldercraft:Amati copper plate matchup.  First off, I cannot believe how much more fun it is to work with the Amati plates vs my experience with the Caldercraft plates (which do still give a nice result).
Because the plates come in sheets, its possible to apply in some cases in multiple plates at a time.  This is a real bonus when its necessary to shape some which otherwise would leave a tiny sliver to be attached.  This results in less wastage..at least so far. The thin profile of the PE plated I think attaches much more easily (in my experience) using the Admiralty Pro thick CA glue.  This also allows any needed overlaps to be achieved easily without having to hammer out the distinct nail head profiles on the CC plates On to the photos and little bit of the method I've found works well for me.  I started working on the stern as this will likely be the most challenging due to the hull shape.
 
I'm not sure what these are called, but determining the flow of the plates where they need to fan out is the first challenge. Because the plates don't bend and can't be spiled, the problem is a little more intractable.  I found that by using a small sheet 2 tiles wide to find the natural lines of how the plates lie well on the hull was the simplest method, it just takes time and fiddling....
 

 
Once the lined had been figured out, household painters tape helped me keep the lines straight at these transition points (I go through a lot of tape)
 

 
From above (the view as I work), the lines of the plates does appear a little erratic...
 

 
...however, the appearance from normal angles is much more acceptable
 

 
 

Very nice work on the carronades Jesse, these things always seem to take way longer than they should :-)  Love the detailed close up pics, really nice.

I have been slowly working on it while I've been sick. Decided to thin the sleds. Had to pop the metal piece off thinned both wooden components and thinned the wheels down a lot too.
 
While all this was being worked on I looked over my ship & saw a lot of battle damage. Replaced a broken bumpkin, glued down a lot of copper plate corners, and glued some gun port lids back on.
 
I also filed the gun port openings slightly, not much but every little bit will help with lowering the carronades. This also gave me a chance to even them up better than I had them before.
 
 

Well, as promised here are the pics from my visit to Kealakekua Bay on Hawai'i Island.  Not build-log related but sort of relevant.  Top photo is from the beach, interesting comparison to the contemporary print, more overgrown but thats to be expected.  The locals try to limit access to beach (its prime snorkelling water) but all that has done has resulted in a tour companies dropping people off by boat, hence the scores of people in the background.  Anyway, what has not really changed is the rugged nature of the rock which does come across in the print, even on a calm day it must have been quite challenging to keep boat alongside to pick up the shore party.  There are some ruins of Hawai'ian drystone walls amongst the trees which does support the 'village' in the print's background.
 
Bottom pic is me looking as happy as I could at the Cook monument, I took the 8 mile walk down which is only way to access by land on a brutal path of volcanic rock path in sweltering heat.  Monument is officially British soil, and is close to where he died.  There is another plaque (which I couldn't find) that also marks the spot which also states that 'nearby' Cook was killed.
 
Trip has moved on, I'm now on the Island of Kaui, which interestingly was the place where Cook first stepped ashore in the Sandwich/Hawai'ian Islands.  So will need to bookend this trip with a visit to that spot as well....
 

 

 

Sjors - maybe these photos will help you make up your mind    The planking is not as beautiful as I think you think because of the different woods used, copper was always the plan.
 
Believe I reached a point to deliver a verdict on the Amati plates and share some progress now that copper has met boxwood.  I know that there seem to be many diverse opinions on coppering, and it does present its own uniquw challenges.  Its also amazing how many varied diagrams there are of copper plate layouts.  In the end, I probably ended up somewhere between what is shown in the AOTS Pandora book and TFFM book 2.
 
So, some thoughts on the Caldercraft:Amati copper plate matchup.  First off, I cannot believe how much more fun it is to work with the Amati plates vs my experience with the Caldercraft plates (which do still give a nice result).
Because the plates come in sheets, its possible to apply in some cases in multiple plates at a time.  This is a real bonus when its necessary to shape some which otherwise would leave a tiny sliver to be attached.  This results in less wastage..at least so far. The thin profile of the PE plated I think attaches much more easily (in my experience) using the Admiralty Pro thick CA glue.  This also allows any needed overlaps to be achieved easily without having to hammer out the distinct nail head profiles on the CC plates On to the photos and little bit of the method I've found works well for me.  I started working on the stern as this will likely be the most challenging due to the hull shape.
 
I'm not sure what these are called, but determining the flow of the plates where they need to fan out is the first challenge. Because the plates don't bend and can't be spiled, the problem is a little more intractable.  I found that by using a small sheet 2 tiles wide to find the natural lines of how the plates lie well on the hull was the simplest method, it just takes time and fiddling....
 

 
Once the lined had been figured out, household painters tape helped me keep the lines straight at these transition points (I go through a lot of tape)
 

 
From above (the view as I work), the lines of the plates does appear a little erratic...
 

 
...however, the appearance from normal angles is much more acceptable
 

 
 

Hi Martin, I've had a look back at my early stages (on the other place) and very little of the  bulkhead extension appeared above the deck base before planking. Here's a few photo's to better explain.
 

 

 

 

 
It makes a big difference once the capping rail has been fitted.
 
I wouldn't get too bothered over this, once you have put the inner planking on you can always add extra height by adding a solid strip on top tapering it down towards aft, before the capping rail is attached.
 
Hope this helps - feel free to remove these pics  from your log.
 
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Pete - many thanks to you for your kind words. You are so right about requiring time,patience,initiative,interpretation,research,& time,PLUS a bit of help from you. This is the most difficult kit I have done,but also the most enjoyable.
 
Mark

Update - After painting the background black,the side decorations were trimmed to fit around the gunports,painted gold & glued in place.The joints were filled with some filler & smoothed over & painted. The forward most section will be fitted after the positions of the cathead brackets are determined.
 

 

 

 
The port side decorations will be fitted next.
 
Mark

347 hours into the journey with just 13 frames to go.  While I have enjoyed the framing portion of this build, I am looking forward to a change of pace.  Shown here are how things look to this point.  Note the template continues to be on target.  One challenge that I have continuously had with this build is the sided dimensions of the frames.  The glue joints over time have added to this overall dimension. While only a few hundredths per frame, that can really add up when you do 90 of them.  On my final 9 frames, I need to claim back 1/8th of an inch.  This may not sound like much, but its critical to keep everything within spec.  Otherwise, the gun ports and other openings will be off. 
 
After the final timbers are placed, I will be adding a few more cross spallings before removing the ship from the board.  I will then spend considerable time fairing the overall hull.  I will then sit on the front porch where it is shaded, but bright and go over each frame - futtock by futtock, chock by chock to get them smooth and well aligned. After that, I will place the chock bolts, etc. 
 
Best, G
 
 

Thanks so much Rusty. Glad to hear from you, but I'm missing seeing your work.
 
Well, after about 40 hours of repairs ( no keelhauling, I'm afraid, Rusty), Cheerful is now back to where it should be. It may actually be even a little better than it was. A photo is attached. Sorry, no before pictures were taken, but, trust me, it didn't look anything like this.
 
Bob

Well I'm back again after a bit of pause doing other some other models
 
Masts are basically shaped
 

 
Shrouds are on for the fore and main mast.
 

 
Started working on the yards but only once I'd worked my way part way down the plan I spotted that the stun sail booms should be at 45 degree angle (the fore yards show this, but the mains only show the above from above) so there has been a bit of reworking involved.
 
Now I'm looking at the plans and trying to figure out what order to go in next, I'm thinking of putting the lower yards (and associated standing rigging) on now before putting the other mast parts on. On the other hand everyone else seems to have finished the masts first....
 
jim_smits snake log is being pretty helpful (although the accident must have been gutting) and stergios hasn't got around to them yet, jasons work is so good it's making me feel inferior.
 
Anyway back to the yards... All thoughts welcome.

Hmm.. thanks for that. Just feeling nervous about the order.

Cheers Christian, Scott, Jim and the likes..
 
Carl - you've hit on the conundrum that I posed back in post #264 :-)  To represent the plates being applied from the stern and bottom up, its necessary to have the nail lines on the bottom and aft side to simulate the overlap.  Once that's done, the die is cast as it means that there will not be nailing on the upper edge next to the waterline (only potentially an issue on the topmost plates).  However, all is not lost because the waterline batten was in practice applied/nailed over the copper plates so its not necessary to have the nails showing on the uppermost edge.  That's my justification anyhow, and I still need to simulate the nails on this batten...
 
Likely not much progress for a while as I'm off on holiday/vaction.  Location to be disclosed if I can, as I plan to visit the site of a rather famous naval death back in 1779.  If you would care to offer a guess, then please submit your answer on the back of some Amati 1:64 copper plates...