Beef Wellington

Thanks for all the likes.
 
The chain pumps were the next task. I assembled the two-piece pumps as supplied, put them on the deck and immediately realised there was a significant problem. Specifically, the axletree was too close to the deck, so close in fact that the winches may not have had clearance over the grating over the hatch. It would have been very difficult, to say the least, for the crew to operate the winches. I measured the height of the axletree from the deck on the kit plans and it was 9mm, compared to 17mm for the same measurement on the NMM plan. So what to do. Kit bash of course, and this was going to include the aft winch which is not shown on the kit plans. The jeer bitt was also going to be moved from the front of the pins to the rear, as on the NMM plan.
 
I tried to modify one of the already assembled pumps, but stuffed this up, so decided to scratch build two new ones. These were based on drawings in TFFM.
 
The two new pumps with some embellishments compared to the kit versions. Scoring was used to simulate individual planks.
 

 
The pumps in place with wooden pillars at each end to support the winches. These were notched to fit onto the hatch coamings, and the ends rounded to fit into holes drilled through the deck. A length of brass rod was used to align the pillars and the pump.
 

 
The pillars shaped and painted.
 

 
Port and starboard done.
 

 
The axletrees and winches were made primarily of 1mm brass rod, while the actual cranks were made from some brass fittings left over from a previous kit. They just happened to be the right size after being trimmed to length. Left over brass fittings (plus wood spacers) were also used for the rhodings (bearings) that are on the pins of the main topsail sheet bitt. Epoxy was used to join the pieces, as final assembly was going to be on the deck. The various parts ready for final assembly.
 

 
All complete, and yes, for those who are wondering, the winches do actually rotate.😊
 

 

 
Cheers.
 

Hi ☺️

Hi 😊

Beautiful work that many can only aspire to, would love to follow your progress.

Try not to overthink it Stergios, I know you'll be just fine.  If you don't permanently secure any if the ropes with glue, you can always detach and refix it.  Until you have the ropes on the model, its very hard to get a sense in 3D for how they all lay out, so don't think you've made a mistake if you need to redo something, think that is just a natural part of the process.

I was very happy this morning to remove the dust cover and check the resin and find it it glassy, tack free and hard. I removed the tape and cleaned up the rim that formed at the dam with a a sharp knife.

I put the diorama to one side to fully cure (72 hours) before the next step but I couldn't resist seeing how HMS Penelope would look on the water

 

It looks promising.
I also checked the resin anchor chain against the foredeck and it may be a tad big (but the same size as the flat PE chain) so I think I will paint it and look at it again but it may well be useable

Thanks for looking in.
Alan
 
 
 

good afternoon everyone
 
although i have the intentions of a break for a couple of weeks from the AV i have slowly been getting on with her
most of the starboard side bowsprit lines are in and the lines for the Port side are made up ready
it is much slower this build as i have to make the lines, then stain them, but im happy with the progress
 

Good afternoon everyone
 
just finished the display case, im happy with it
 

I m still searching to find the right “starting point” for the final stage of the model, the running rigging of the yards.
I think that s the most challenging phase of the model. Petterson book can help, but not so much…

Alan, that is some pretty amazing detail at 1:64, and its nice to see detail normally omitted or obscured by paint.  Very nicely done indeed.

Alan, that is some pretty amazing detail at 1:64, and its nice to see detail normally omitted or obscured by paint.  Very nicely done indeed.

Alan, that is some pretty amazing detail at 1:64, and its nice to see detail normally omitted or obscured by paint.  Very nicely done indeed.

Today I worked on my CAP  and the JEER CLEATS.
 

 
I followed TFFM for the JEER CLEATS, made in three pieces, glued and shaped, assuring there will be adequate clearance to install each sling.
 

 
If you look just forward of the BOLSTERS you will see a hint of the iron wear or bearing FID PLATE on the top of the TRESTLE TREE for the Top Mast Fid.
I almost forgot these.  I'll need to review the whole assembly to make sure I haven't forgotten anything else.
There are plates on both of the two trees.  The Fids were said to be Iron or Wood with holes at both ends so I envision them being secured to the mast with a single lanyard.
 
I followed a number of sources to complete the CAP.
The cap is made to look like two pieces bolted through the sides as described by Steels.
The most time consuming part was fitting the chamfered or bevelled head into a chamfered or bevelled hole, but I managed!
A nice snug fit.
The LEATHER COAT was added to both the top and underside of the CAP at the Top Mast hole.
The leather was simulated with natural brown shipping paper from Amazon, free with delivery... I keep a bit of everything!
Nails were simulated with a soft sharp pencil.
Once again everything looks better from a short distance.
 
I have not made my four eye bolts and they will need to be blackened before being installed under the CAP.
I have drilled the holes and added monofilament line in the top to simulate the ends of the Eye Bolts.
I'm not quite sure when I should do the eye bolts as it might be easier to do them with the blocks that are suspended from them.
Any suggestions from those who know!?!
 
The CAP is not glued down.  It will not be glued until the Top Mast is ready to be installed... quite some time from now.
 
 

A wheelbarrow as a gun carriage: well, why not? What is also interesting is that the model was in a naval archive before transferring to the modern Rijksmuseum. Perhaps a practical way of quickly shifting the position of a gun on deck, it is certainly not suited to a ploughed field.

 
“Model of a Wheelbarrow Gun Carriage
Netherlands, Netherlands, 1793
Object data
wood and brass
height 7.6 cm × width 19.7 cm × depth 8.5 cm × height 10 cm
width 25.5 cm × depth 16 cm
Provenance
...; transferred from the Ministerie van Marine (Department of the Navy), The Hague, to the museum, 1883
Object number: NG-MC-745
Copyright: Public domain
Entry
Model of a wheelbarrow with one wheel.
In the cart, the cheeks of a gun carriage are mounted, and the fore end is hollowed out to the shape of a gun barrel. On the sides forked posts for the loading gear are indicated. The wheel is shod with brass. The feet have telescoping pins underneath to check the recoil.
This invention is one of many by Jan Hendrik van Kinsbergen (1735-1819).
Scale unknown.”
https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/collection/NG-MC-745/catalogue-entry

A New Beginning...
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Done with most of the hidden walnut... now on to the boxwood 🙂
 
 

The other consideration outside of the wood itself, is where the wood is sourced from, and in what form.  I don't have any tools to mill my own sheets and strips, and as a result I'm dependent on suppliers of strips.  My experience with finding consistent maple (for example) has not been a good one, and have found many cases where I've been supplied a wood clearly not what it should be.  I've also seen huge variation in Tanganika, some looks very similar to maple, some has very conspicuous orange-brown stripes in it which is far less satisfactory.  Walnut seems to be a similar challenge, it seems be of an acceptable quality in some kits, but in others it splinters and snaps just looking at it...

So here is the test with weld bond glue to simulate bolt heads with a thank you to John Cairns of our local Niagara Region club for demonstrating this technique to create shapes on small parts (i.e. insignia like a royal cypher on a gun barrel)
Test wet and dry...
   
 
Here it is on the rudder ... up close and personal.  It looks much better from 12 inches away!
Rudder wet and dry and full view.
 
 

 
The great thing is I can wipe it off when wet and do it again, or when dry (hours or weeks later) I can easily add to it.
 

Thank you all! She is finally ready! I managed to find a small enough chain in a jewelry shop, and with small additions she is finished. The final gallery: 

The decking is finally complete.  Other things have intruded over the last month or so.  The result of the planking has been acceptable, and I think looks less artificial than the laser-cut deck supplied in the kit, but I guess that is for others to judge.  In any event a lot of it will eventually be obscured by guns, fittings and rigging.
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

George
 
I am glad this subject came back to life as I learned something new today, thus it is a good day.
 
In response to your question, as seems to be the case in so many instances, the type of wood for the decks depended on which era and which deck.  Some decks had two different types of wood and even two different shapes of planks.   The orlop and platforms were  generally made with Deal rather than oak and often made into pallets with battens on their underside as they were not secured permanently to the beams.  Rather, the pallets were held down with battens or rested in mortices that were as deep as the thickness of the planks,  sort of overlapping (overloop from the Dutch)  the beams, thus the name orlop, the slang abbreviation.  (I never knew the origin of the word orlop until today🤪)   In the late 18th century, gun decks sometimes were laid with top and butt or anchor stock planking for two or three outboard most strakes rather then parallel strakes.    As oak became harder to find, elm was used on some gundecks as well.  Elm was strong and  had a great advantage of not splintering when hit with cannon shot, but rather broke into chunks.
 
For the hull planks, whatever floats your boat as the saying goes.  Oak on a ship does not work on a model as it shows grain so much it looks as odd as the walnut found in some kits.   I prefer softer woods if it is going to be painted, otherwise hard woods are my personal favorites.  In my experience I have not found that fruit woods such as apple or pear are any more difficult to work than castello or padauk, all of them being between about 1660 lbft and 1810 lbft on the Janka scale.   Once the plank is cut to the proper shape I have been able to bend all of these with water and heat.    Poplar and basswood  are popular and much easier to work but the softness is troublesome for some people.   I have seen a lot of models planked with yellow cedar in the past couple years that are absolutely gorgeous even though it is soft by comparison (580 lb ft).  
 
Allan

Very nice Looks like you're making great progress! I made my own window frames too. Plenty of work, but I'm really glad I did. It is a real feature of the vessel.
 
As far as the gratings go, I made up all of mine in one go, and only once they were done did I notice that the gratings on the quarter deck and fore deck have much narrower coamings than those on the gun deck. I didn't want to remake them all, and wasn't confident I could do a good job of cutting them down, so they're all a bit overscale on my quarter deck which makes things a little crowded. Oh well... next time!

Stern and Quarter Galleries
A cardboard template  was made from the modified AotS stern gallery drawing and  the alignment looks OK to me so I next added the PE window lights to check the overall look. I don't think that they look too bad but I would have to redraw the openings to make them fit properly so in the end I have decided to try to make my own from scratch.
 

Trying to align the quarter gallery on the port side showed up another error in that somehow I had cut the sternmost starboard gun port 2mm too low.
In the shot below you can see where I have added a strip to the bottom of the gunport.

 
 

 
I made the stern gallery in three parts. The overall frame from 1.5mm boxwood sheet  There is a step just above the line of lights and below the taffarel which I have added using 1mm walnut sheet and finally the taffarel is cut from 3mm boxwood sheet.

 
I series drilled and cut out the lights and did the same for the two piercings in the taffarel.

 
Partially painted in Tamiya Blue and my own mix of red.
 

 
In between times I have been making the hatch gratings and coamings for the gundeck. The coamings are made from the 6x2mm boxwood guitar banding that I bought from Timberline some time ago and the gratings are from the kit.

 
I've just noticed that the small grating and frame looked skewed but it must be the angle from which I have taken the shot and the fact the grating is not fully placed inside the frame!

The other consideration outside of the wood itself, is where the wood is sourced from, and in what form.  I don't have any tools to mill my own sheets and strips, and as a result I'm dependent on suppliers of strips.  My experience with finding consistent maple (for example) has not been a good one, and have found many cases where I've been supplied a wood clearly not what it should be.  I've also seen huge variation in Tanganika, some looks very similar to maple, some has very conspicuous orange-brown stripes in it which is far less satisfactory.  Walnut seems to be a similar challenge, it seems be of an acceptable quality in some kits, but in others it splinters and snaps just looking at it...

The other consideration outside of the wood itself, is where the wood is sourced from, and in what form.  I don't have any tools to mill my own sheets and strips, and as a result I'm dependent on suppliers of strips.  My experience with finding consistent maple (for example) has not been a good one, and have found many cases where I've been supplied a wood clearly not what it should be.  I've also seen huge variation in Tanganika, some looks very similar to maple, some has very conspicuous orange-brown stripes in it which is far less satisfactory.  Walnut seems to be a similar challenge, it seems be of an acceptable quality in some kits, but in others it splinters and snaps just looking at it...