barkeater
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Everything posted by barkeater
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Love the tiller with blocks and rope work. Nicely done detail.
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- caldercraft
- Cruiser
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Hello all and already looking for help
barkeater replied to Signode388's topic in New member Introductions
On mini files, The hobby shops near me sell two types, a fine tooth and a coarser or larger tooth. The finer will take off wood slowly and give it a smoother surface. The larger toothed is when you want to take off a lot of wood. Be careful with these larger tooth files. Go lightly until you get used to them and the particular type of wood you are using them on. They can take off wood quick and also can splinter an edge or pull off small pieces along the edge. I have: round, flat, semi round and flat, triangular and square and I use them all. I don' bother with a handle as I feel I can get better control of the file by holding it in my fingers. I use fine tooth a lot more than the coarse. Those are fine tooth in my picture above. -
Not an expert but I vote shroud. I don't remember ever having seen it whipped to the lanyard.
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Hello all and already looking for help
barkeater replied to Signode388's topic in New member Introductions
Absolute necessary tools: Small saw and mitre box, scalpel or hobby knife, flexible ruler with metric and inches, micro files of various shapes, different clamps including the ones attached to your hands, sand paper and not for you but for me 5x magnification glasses. You can build any kit with just these tools. My advise is not to go overboard. Just get the minimum and add when you see something that you really need. Otherwise you wind up with a drawer of tools that just gather dust.
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Old school keel holder. I don't know how everyone else does it but I hold my model on my lap as I secure planks and use the frame/holder just to set it in when not working to keep it from warping
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- scottish maid
- artesania latina
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Quarter Galley Roof
barkeater replied to barkeater's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Thanks for the ideas. It will remain a mystery. If I try to picture three dimensionally from the drawing, I see a raised letter H sort of with shorter upper limbs placed on a flat background. For the life of me I can not figure out why other than decorative but the configuration would not help water runoff so why this shape? I like the idea of stamped lead and would guess maybe copper. -
I've been looking at the plans for the Unite 1796 concerning the quarter galley roof and I'd be interested to know what the roof was made out of. It looks like it might be metal given the drawing has the appearance of a pattern to the pieces. However Goodwin in "Construction and Fitting of the Sailing Man of War 1650-1850" indicates that they were plank and frame although he notes construction details are unknown. I wonder if they were shingled over with cast metal given the appearance of the drawing. Ideas? Opinions?
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I'd go with sanding. 1/32 is not much wood to sand. As you lay planks down you may get slight offset to the surface of the planks secondary to the changing contour or torque to the long axis of the plank secondary to bending the plank. You are going to sand even if you don't get any irregularities to the surface. If you feel your rabbet is deep enough and you are happy with it I would leave it. I would not sand planks before setting the because of the factors above. You can always sand a little more wood off but you can't replace it.
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Aaron, By the way, when Chuck talks about drilling and pegging, you can use a pin vise which is a relatively cheap tool ($10) instead of a drill press. Pin vises are an invaluable gadget to have around. Rich
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What Vaddoc said. Once you varnish, oil or paint it is tough to glue pieces together and you can use pins inserted so that they do not show into the pieces to help join them. When I do this I use CA but do it carefully and sparingly as it will penetrate the wood and leave a stain on exposed surfaces. I hope this is clear.
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I don't paint or stain my wood. I would however venture to mention that if you are going to varnish or use a hard finish that this will cause some difficulty with gluing. In such a case predrill a hole in the object and the place where it will be attached then insert and glue a pin into both to join them. You may want to do this with painted items as well.
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Newbie Questions - Glue and Pins
barkeater replied to Popeye67's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I don't use push pins. Short answer to CA vs white glue is CA penetrates the wood leaving a stain which you can't sand off easily while white glue (pva) does not penetrate like CA and doesn't stain and can easily be sanded from the surface. There is an article in this months NRG Journal that notes that CA will disappear with a clear coat but why take the chance. I do know lacquer doesn't cover it in my experience. My advise, use white glue for all wood and use CA where you want to glue metal or plastic to wood. Paper to wood use white glue. -
I ran across this site https://www.minicannontech.com/ which I thought was pretty interesting. They offer functioning mini-cannons including both naval and field cannons. Kind of cool to think you could build a cross section or battle station and have the cannon actually be able to fire.
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I use white glue to seize lines as well as stiffen coils. I just put some white glue in a paper cup, add water and mix with a tooth pick. I really don't measure but it would be something on the order of 4/1 to 5/1 water to glue. You want it thin enough so that it soaks in and does not leave a visible residue on the surface. You really don't need a thick mixture to stiffen the line.
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From Lavery " The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600-1815" " The eighteenth century 3-pounder was between 4ft 6in and 6ft long". Using 5ft my math indicates between 32 and 33 mm so 30mm should be fine.
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Newbie with a few tool questions....
barkeater replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Here's my bare bones tool collection: Mitre box and saw, flexible ruler with metric, scalpel, clamps (you will collect various), micro files (flat, triangular, round and square), and for me 5x glasses (about $10 on line). I forgot to include sand paper. You can build an entire kit with just these tools except for the rigging. I'm not a big Dremel user but occasionally find it useful but not required. I do use an electric plank bender but with a single plank model you should be able to soak and clamp your planks and omit this initial expense. The Bluenose is painted however if you were going to add treenails say for the deck add Model Machines draw knife as well as a pin vise and small drill bits. That is all you need to build a kit. One word of advice. It is easier to remove more wood than it is to replace it. Good luck.
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As I read the links, both of these seem to be a single plank builds. Please ignore this if I am wrong. You might be better off with a double plank kit where your first planking is just to get the shape and will be covered with the second planking. This allows you to get the technique down and you can make mistakes (gaps) which you can fill in. I have never done a solid hull but sooner or later you are going to do planking anyway and I would not be put off by it. It is also , to me, part of the challenge and fun of a project to figure out how to shape and bend the planking.
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There is a good discussion on the Wood Database concerning exotic woods and their losing color. It seems that all but a few woods will lose or change color with aging. Yellowheart which was mentioned in this discussion only darkens slightly and I'm using it for the yellow ochre stripe along the gun ports of Unite. I'm also using Chatke to simulate the red paint on the gun deck. This however may be a bad choice as this wood turns brown with age. I decided not to go with dyed wood even though the color was very similar to Chatke because it was dyed. I will seal it very well hopefully with shellac and dulcote varnish but in a few years my red may turn brown. What I'm getting at is that this is a personal choice and there is a good discussion on the database on this. Is it more important to have the colors of you project last or can you accept that the vibrant color that looked so nice may not be permanent. Another coat of shellac for me but to each his own.
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It looks really yellow in your picture. If this is true my guess would be yellow heart or dyed bass wood which I have seen (Modelers Central). The "Wood Database" site may be of help. https:/www.wood-database.com/wood-finder/?fwp_paged=24
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Cutting Planks
barkeater replied to sfotinos's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I essentially do what Downer said at the top of this thread. I also work wearing 5x glasses. I wonder whether or not those having problems are using magnification as they allow me to see when I'm getting off course on a butt end much easier and prevent me from getting to far afield before making a correction. Just a thought. -
Another trick you can use is double sided tape. Stick one side to your work surface and the coil your lines using the sticky tape to keep in place. You can the use watered down white glue to fix the coils. Let it dry and remove from tape. I used this method to get the coils next to the canons in this picture.
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I apologize if my comment was taken as a criticism to Kieth's post. I thought it was a good answer and I did see he was referring to styrene. I just wanted to make sure that somebody who just bought their first wood kit did not miss that the discussion was about plastic models.
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A note to the beginner, the choice of glues would depend on what medium you are working in. In this instance, the model is plastic.
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Ship stand
barkeater replied to Snow's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
I used a piece of driftwood for a stand on Badger 1777.
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