fmodajr
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Hi Michael, You are a better man than me having that sort of patience for your assembly line painting A shot of whiskey to steady your hands? Great job, Frank -
Hi Michael, I hope all is well with you and your model! For the main anchor line coming out of the ship's hull, I used Syrens tan rigging rope .062 dia. Thanks, Frank
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Hi Jan, Thanks for your kind comments. Yes, I will keep all the parts to the side until I see that it is the right time to finish them. I'm not quite sure when that will be. I'll keep an eye on things while I'm doing the rigging. Once I start to feel that I won't be able to get my hands in there soon, I'll add the railings. Even though I am pre-slotting now, the railings will still need some final trimming and shaping to get them in the right spot. So it will be important to have some room to work around them. Thanks, Frank
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Thanks for all the likes and for visiting! Frank
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I started trying to make the slots for the railing posts. At first I tried using a tiny milling bit with my dremel, but after a couple of attempts I gave up due to my unsteady hands. So I switched to hand drilling two small holes (.035 dia) right next to each other and then slowly filing out the middle and making them rectangular as best as I could. My posts are 1mm thick x 2mm wide for the ones that support the curved pieces and the rest are 1mm thick by 1.5mm wide. Most of them came out okay with a couple of slots ending up too big. (Some walnut wood filler should work!) . Working my way down the port side, I milled all the slots and dry fitted the posts that I will be using. Nothing will be glued down until later after the installation of the shrouds and ratlines. Now onto the starboard side. Thanks, Frank
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Back working on my model! I started making the assembly for the upper railing system. I am doing this so I can lay out the slots I will need to mill for the posts. I want to do this now (as discussed above) before I start the masting and rigging. I made the curve pieces by taking some walnut sheet and grinding a radius with my oscillating sander. Then I penciled the outside line and ground the outer side using a disk sander. I notched one end of the curved pieces and one end of the straight pieces so that there will be more support when gluing together. Now I glued the different sections together for both side of the ship. I left extra stock on the curved section and also on the straight sections, so I can accurately fit everything later in the build. (I will also paint these sections white at a later date) I made up a bunch of the railing posts and left extra stock so I can fit everything later. Now I will start marking and slotting the railing for the posts. (Hopefully I can find tools small enough for the slotting) Thanks, Frank
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Hi Karl, Perfect! Thank you very much! This will save me a lot of time when I start the sails! Great Job Thanks again, Frank
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Hi Karl, Thanks! That would be great! I can make my own sails if I have some pictures and measurements. Thanks for the help and also no rush! Frank
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Hi Mark, Thats for your input. I think that I will make all the railing parts now, drill the slots in the lower rails, then test fit everything to be sure. Then put everything aside for later installation! Frank
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Hi Karl! Great looking sails! Do you know of where I could by the sail plans that comes with the BB kit? I am making my ship from Corel and they do not include sail drawings. Is the BB kit the same scale as Corel 1:75? Frank
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Hi Everyone, Thanks for all the likes! It is appreciated! I will need to take a break from my ship build, for about 2 weeks, in order to finish another project. In the meantime, I was wondering if anyone can assist me with some input on the topic of the decorative railing for the Vasa. If I wait to install the delicate railing after the rigging of the ship, should I still pre-plan, drill and cutout where the railing posts are supposed to go? I still have to drill the holes on the lower main railings for the belaying pins and I don't want to mistakenly drill a belaying pin hole where the delicate upper railing posts should be. Also, if I wait to do everything after the rigging, how will I get around the rigging to drill and square up the holes for the posts on the lower railing? Am I over thinking this? Thanks in advance for any help or advice, Frank
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Hi Matti, your ship is looking great as always. Beautiful work on the shrouds! Question for you. I am at the stage now where I have to decide about the thin delicate upper rail system on the ship. If I don't think about it now or decide to put it in later, I am worried about being able to get in there after the shrouds are in. What is your view? Are you planning to add the railings in or are you leaving them out? Thanks for the help and I keep looking forward to viewing your log! Frank
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Happy birthday Michael! Nice work on the davit! The only thing your work room needs now is a bed, since you will be spending all your time in there Frank
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I made the 2 pulleys, that sit above the mizzen mast channels, out of walnut. I made the sheaves out of a dowel of wood and grooved the outside diameter. Pulley with sheaves pinned in place Fitted on Port Side Fitted on Starboard side Drilled hole on both side, where the rigging from the pulleys will enter the ship side Pulley and hole So, after viewing Michael's (md1400cs) fine log and the discussions about removing the pin rails, (which apparently don't belong), I now have to figure out a way to remove them without damaging the ship or the cannon! Yikes, Will not be fun! Thanks, Frank
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Thanks for all the likes! Frank
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Working on the port side, trying to show the anchor in a somewhat stored position. Finished rigging the bow davit to the anchor ring and added support lines to the middle and end of the anchor. View of finished port side Coiled ropes from the bow davits terminal end Coiled line from the starboard removable davit. Now onto the large pulleys above the mizzen mast channels! Thanks, Frank
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Finishing up the anchors! So, working on the starboard side, trying to show the anchor being raised. During a test fit of the anchor, I noticed that the assembly would be swinging loosely when finished, so I had to think of a way to protect and secure it without being noticed. So I drilled and pinned the backside of the stock and drilled a corresponding hole on the side of the ship. Now I pressed and glued the pin and stock into the side of the ship, holding the anchor assembly firm, without being noticeable. Rigged the block and anchor to the bow davit Rigged the other end of the anchor to the removable davit. Finished the large anchor cable
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Great Job Karl! You are moving fast! Keep the photos coming since a lot of us are a little bit behind you in our progress. Frank
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Hi Max, Thanks for the comments! I have been trying to follow some of the illustrations from Landstron's book. Who knows how accurate things are! Thanks Frank
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Using dark brown rigging line, I wrapped the 2 large eyes for the anchors Painted the anchors and assembled the stocks Rigged the large anchor line and attached to the large eyes. Took the blocks and added the hooks and wrapped with darkened thin metal straps Added wrapped line to only one of the anchors. This is for the starboard side anchor, which I will show being hoisted up with davit. (I will have the port anchor shown in a stored position) Rigged a double block to the starboard davit I will mount the anchors soon and try to have an update early next week Thanks, Frank
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I started working on my anchors for the ship. (Sorry for the quality of some of the pictures. I was never good at photography!!) The first thing I did was remake the anchor stocks. I did not like the ones that came with the kit. I remade them using walnut. Drilled some small holes for the tree nails (Used the old anchor stocks for this illustration) Using my tree nail tool, I cut some square stock of lighter wood and ran it thru the tool to make it round. Glued and press fit into the anchor stock (Used the old anchor stocks for this illustration) Sanded down flush on walnut stocks Added the blackened nails to each side
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As always, Great job Michael! We are almost at the same spots on our builds and I love looking at your log for inspiration! Frank
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Hi Edwin, Thanks for your kind comments, Frank
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Hi Janos, Thanks for visiting! To answer some of your questions about the leafing: 1) the gold leaf is so thin that if you breath on it, you can blow the sheet away! So, with regards to detail being lost on a carving, I don't think this will happen. I believe it goes on even thinner than a coat of paint and if you use a woman's makeup blush brush, you will be able to get the leaf into all the nooks and crannies and in my opinion, bring out even more detail. 2) I first used the gold leaf process back in 2008 on my "Italian Sciabecco" build. So it has been on for about 7 years. I keep the ship in a case for dust protection etc., so I removed the case today to take a look at the leaf. It shows no sign of deterioration, no looseness, and because it is actual 24 carrot gold, the "shininess" is unchanged. The key to the whole process is the seizing glue that is put on first. It has to be given a chance to dry to a tacky feel (about 2 hours) before applying the gold. Here are some pictures of the gold leaf on the Sciabecco from 2007 - 2008. 3) I did not apply any lacquer or other sealer to the gold. 4) I order my leaf from "Sepp Leaf Products" in New York. If you view their catalog, you will see many different types of gold leaf and you can decide on how bright or dull you want the leaf to look on your ship. I hope this helps, Frank
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