Javlin
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Everything posted by Javlin
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It is amazing I mean it takes you there you feel it.The site I posted at the end of the comment he has two builds in there also his water is spot on. Kevin
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I do wood work some always better to cut it long than short meaning which I did not convey well was that going light now on your staining leaves the door open to do more later if needed.
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The one thing that 1/700 offers is smaller Dio's and there are some guys out there doing some eye catching work don't know if I will ever be able to achieve those results.I think one that does that kind of work are artist in some regards for they can see the big picture me not so much I can then I can't.The 1/700 goes together quicker but I need to figure out what those guys are doing rigging which I was fighting with it tonight with stretched sprue and the rigging on any ship makes it pop.I have ordered up some pieces for the 1/700 Ise and will see how it plays out and if I have the eyesight/patience for it.This guy doe some fantastic work that puts you right there. http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=191192
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I started this one last night nice fit on the hull and started drilling out port holes not many to do may step up to some weathering on this one.This kit comes with some PE that is supplied for railing ,paddles for LB and some antenna (?) . Kevin Japanese destroyers 388'L X 35'B were big compared to our Gleaves 348'LX36'B
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Thks Mike,will got some more work done just some rigging(sprue) I suspect for antenna for radio,made propellers for planes out stretched sprue and loaded some LBs not many on Japanese ships I still got to lay another coat of paint on the planes and decal and still a bit more rigging to done and a good stand/base.
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Looks good from here to and if you want to go further you can kinda like cut it long if anything!
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So on the Maya got the railing up propellers and rudder in place.I seen were the flight deck was grey so that was fixed Kevin Oh and have this on the way to go along with the 1/350 Mogami
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None from Rainbow but have looked at some Flyhawk whew amount and price. Ocean Spirit first time using them Hunter another first for decks Kit for the Fujumi kit I am going Hase
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It must of been some old material shoot I thought Tom's Modelworks had closed up after Tom the owner passed away.A new guy took over and I used there 1/350 scale for Fletcher class at least part of it since it was Dragon kit.I am going to maybe eyeball some of the 1/700 for the IJN already have a bit ordered for ISE coming from over seas. I love the concept here with the colors and leaving the Brass natural I would not doubt it this keeps going the way(splendid) it has some the of manufacture will adopt the process or even maybe some commission work for you? Quote from http://www.theaerodrome.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44013 Just a note to you, past customers of Tom's Modelworks, that Tom's is once again open. My name is Richard Harden and I am the new owner and I hope you will once again consider Tom's Modelworks when you are buying brass aircraft and ship model detailing sets.
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I am along for the ride and a Nice scale for details. Kevin
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- new bedford whaleboat
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Looking really Nice Gary the coiled up ropes everywhere really give an authentic look for me atleast Kevin
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Well if you are interested get me some dimensions on the slap Oak is cheap down here about $3-4 a board foot it's a free offer to yea my contribution you might say.A nice platform or case makes a big difference this is my man cave one side of the shop is the office area 7'X16' with a built in case to the wall and the other side is wood work 23'X16' not big enough any more.Email me if you are interested. kevin
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I like the staining by the way but I usually do that when I am through with the build but I do smaller scales 1/700 and 1/350.I think it allows one to blend it in better to the overall effect of the build.It looks like once this is applied their is no turning back?
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Any wood can warp but the denser the wood it's propensity decreases.Now the Pine you have can still be used if you were to glue a 1/2"T X 1"W frame around the edge whether on the top or the bottom will keep it flat.What are the dimensions of your board?I get the feeling you live in a dry/desert like climate?I have two pic for you the boat is on Oak that I ran through the router on three sides in this case about 6yrs old now and I live on the GOM high humidity year round.The other piece of wood is Philippine Mahogany I am showing you this if you want I can plane then router it if you like and send it to to you.The most time is setting up the router but I have other wood projects coming my way so that side of the shop is about to get active again. Kevin
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I like the looks of things Gary and leaving the pins the brass gives it a nice touch.I have a brother down your way in Merrit Island has a sail shop been there since the early 80's. Kevin
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Regardless would be a NICE mantle piece with the lighting!To many lifeboats (so I jest) the life boats need help oars,covers I sure the aftermarket world will chime in.Me I have a HK 1/32 B-25 along with some other big scale A/C I need to finish before I throw out more bucks.
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Whats those build were it's just the hull,deck and part a mast??? This is one
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I p/u this little gem some time back and I like this scale 1) If you just want to build and that's it wal la 2)you can detail and make a dio which I think is were I want to take my skills? So this is a test run got Big Mo in there on one pic which will be my second water dio with a destroyer escort.I have about 10hr in the Maya ATTM.Thks for looking I do have some generic 1/700 railing the Maya will get and she will get some rigging ..
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I have had this come up when laying a gloss black sometimes that is really akin to a real lacquer paint meaning it it has a fast drying agent smell almost like acetone.The paint in that case can glob on the my Badger Airbrush little tips on the edge and I had a car painter on another forum it was humidity and temperature so now it's cold in my room.But ,back to the pebbles don't go the sandpaper route quite yet go to a paint shop or parts house and get an 800 grit scotch brite it contours to the plastic and levels the paint it's a must when I do Alclad silver on my aircraft before the silver goes down and the more you use the softer it gets. Kevin I tried some AK paint on a little F-6AQ Recce Mustang just for the wing bands straight from the bottle no thinning sprayed smooth and level kinda liked it.I spray enamels mainly Model Masters or Humbrol and what I like about enamels is you have all night before you have to clean your gun unlike your acrylics you have to be quick.I lost one badger airbrush because I was not through enough and the needle seized in the gun(I broke the brass w/nut twisting) and all I had to do was soak it in ammonia.
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Give it a little while Rich read maybe or look at some unbuilt kits.get well.
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Some Nice work Dave and I really like the idea of the beams
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Some very Nice Work Sir!!
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Some Most Excellent work Sir!!
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I like the looks of those save the others for another build
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