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Everything posted by JerryTodd
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What wood are you using for the spars?
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We just call them "sticks." "Sea was so rough it nearly rolled her sticks out of her!"
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Here's a Jimmy James sketch of Jack-Line reefing, some call French Reefing. It's a method used on real ships around the 1840's or so and can be seen in photos as late as the 1920's. I didn't install such a set-up as I figure that if it's blowing too hard for tops'ls, it's blowing too hard to sail. I have nothing to prove A line is attached across the sail, typically at each reef point, making retro-fitting a sail easier without altering anything. On a model you could use line that matched the sail's color to make it less visible, and put in regular reef-points for show. The cringles are hooked to hold the sail up and out (think reefing tackle) and a jack-line is passed through the loops from front, over the yard to the back, back over the yard to the front and so on across the sail. The jack-line's tied to the yard at either end. You can CA some of the end of the jack-line to make a sort of needle to help thread it. It's a LOT simpler and easier to do and undo on a model than tying far too many reef-points than any human mind could endure.
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Congratulations Timmo! She's beautiful. Those gusts feel like they're deliberately messing with you, don't they. Did you manage any video at all? About those gusts... I reverted to only controlling the tops'l yards, cutting out direct control of the course yards. I'll have working bunts and clews on the courses to brail them up (after pulling the wire from the sleeve at the foot), and the t'gallants and royals will be removable, yard and all. I'd make that stays'l brailable if I were setting any. I have two tris'ls, or spencers on gaffs that brail up in lieu of stays'ls that may or may not get set if the air's very light, but their sheets aren't controlled. The trick is not only having options in sail configurations, but options you can implement at the water's edge.
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Welcome neighbor, well, relative to some folks here, we live next door.
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I have one of these to do in 1:36 scale yet, for Constellation's launch. I was thinking of doing it in styrene, I tend to not burn my fingers so much working in plastic.
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Rigging Instructions 1/96 Revell Constitution
JerryTodd replied to kruginmi's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I've had 2 Constitutions and 2 United States kits since 1971 and have never seen the more "verbose" version of the rigging instructions. They must be newer versions. -
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Sunday (5/21) past was the Baltimore Port Expo for National Maritime Day. I couldn't get the model ready to sail in time, and the pool was to shallow to allow it anyway, so she sat on her cart on display. She did wear all 17 sails and a lot of folks asked a lot of interesting and intelligent questions about her. I took another shot at the parrel I gave up on back in December and I think I got it this time. I'll get no offers to make jewelry or clocks, but I have a parrel. It's a 1/4 wide strip of 1/16" thick copper bent into a two-part ring. 1/16" i.d. brass tubing was soldiered the the ends to make hinges. The post for the yard's yoke is a brass #4 screw threaded and soldier to the copper band. A section of brass tubing was threaded onto it to cover the threads where the yoke will ride, and prevent the retaining nut from being over-tightened. It's lined with 3/8" tall, 1/16" thick bass, CAed inside the parrel so it doesn't mar the mast. I'll grind down that hex-nut smaller at some point. Just two more to go.
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Copper tape wants a smooth surface, the smoother the better.
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Lanyards and other "adjustment points" of that nature would definitely not be tarred with the coating Luce describes, mainly because it would prevent seeing any deterioration or damage on lines that wear most on the inside - like in the holes of the dead-eyes. Pine tar protects the line, mainly from molds, and keeps it supple, while allowing any wear to be visible and dealt with before it becomes critical - but it would be tarred beyond what it received in it's manufacture, making it much darker than the rest of the running rigging.
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The set-up for "adjusting" lanyards is perfectly capable of overcoming whatever "tar" they might have put on them. The odds are Stockholm Tar was used, but something was used, no passage making ship is going wandering about with bare lanyards. Yes, the system shown is from a Navy manual where there's enough crew to send the mast through the bottom of the ship, but the system's the same outside the Navy as well.
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Or staple on some bed-sheet from the thrift shop.
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Made a quick 3D model of the hull. Nothing precise, but it gives me a better feel for the shape And I can compare it to the other models
- 20 replies
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I think you're displaced, not misplaced, we know where you are
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There's differences between the drawings and the actual boat as she appeared in 78/79. As mentioned before, I refer to photos, especially of her out of the water, to alter my drawings to match. The shape of the forefoot is much rounder on the actual boat; The propeller opening is more complex. She has a 5 bladed prop today, she had a 3 bladed prop back then; The shape of the rudder is very different from the drawings; She was originally an unpowered schooner. When they installed an engine, they added the structure aft of the stern post, and lengthened the hull into that yacht-like transom; When I was aboard her in 78 she was all white with buff rails and still had the full house with the wheel enclosed. In 79 the house was shortened so the wheel was outside and the raised portions of the rails fore and aft were painted forest green. It's this 79 appearance I plan to finish her in.
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The plans arrived after a 7 day tour of central Maryland - thank goodness for Priority Mail! I had one page scanned at Office Depot, which cost all of $8 USD, and not the astronomical price Independence estimated it would. I'll get the other pages scanned later not only to re-scale, but to preserve them because they apparently hadn't heard of acid free paper back in 1971 and these are showing some age. Checking my scan with the paper version to make sure nothing was distorted beyond usability, I found my other drawings based on greatly enlarged images and photos were off, not a lot, but more than I would have preferred. I started working on scale drawings to work from, which I'll have printed when they're complete, including a pattern for each form, keel, keelson, deck arrangement, and the spar and rigging plan - all full size. Based on this more accurate information, Gazela, at 1:36 scale, will actually be the smallest of my models. (Pride is 1:20 scale) Length on deck: 50 inches (127cm) Length of hull: 51.3 inches (130.3cm) Beam: 8.8 inches (22.4cm) Beam over the rig (main yard): 18.67 inches (47.4cm) Length over the rig: 59.3 inches (150.6cm) Height overall (less ballast keel): 35.7 inches (90.7cm) Depth (less ballast keel): 5.3 inches (13.5cm) Sail area: c. 247.5 sq inches
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Did all topsail schooners have ratlines on both masts?
JerryTodd replied to Cathead's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
There would be at least two lower stays on each mast, probably three on the foremast, and two stays with deadeyes or bullseyes on the cross-trees, for each topmast. The foremast would have backstays for the topmast where the tops'l peaks, and the t'gallant if there is provision for one, both on block-and-tackle, "running back-stays." The main tops'l would have at least one running back stay where the main-tops'l's jack yard peaks. The fore would have rats at least as far as can reach the tops'l yard as would the main if there's a square set on it, otherwise, the main probably didn't have any at all, or only on the lower shrouds. The main on sharp-raked craft would also have two running fore-stays from the mast-head to either side of the base of the fore-mast, and did not have a stay running from mast-head to mast head - it would foul the fores'l gaff peak. This is pretty standard for Baltimore clippers, pilot boats, revenue schooners, coastal schooners, etc.- 18 replies
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I made a lower offer and the seller accepted it, and upon learning what I needed them for, seemed very happy about it. So, I guess there may be some entries in this log soon - at last!
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Finally found a set of those plans on ebay, of all places. They want $60 with shipping, and right when car registration and insurance are due, so, so much for that idea. http://www.ebay.com/itm/152432476708?_trksid=p2060353.m2763.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Some pics I found online over the years showing Trin out of her dock, in drydock, and other a-typical angles. I never did get why they set her up with the yards in the set positions.
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HMS Shannon, who took the Chesapeake, was a Leda class boat, and Unicorn, which also still exists, is a contemporary of Trincomalee and also a Leda. It's pretty lame considering some of the garbage that's offered as kits that there's no kit for these three notable vessels of a very notable class.
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