Nirvana

Let me dive right in...
 
Dont forget that if you eventually build this kit,  the two volume set from Seawatch will be a must have.   Yes you will spot the differences easy enough,  but the books along with my instructions absolutely compliment each other and you will want to have them at your side.
 
I always like to begin by building the stem assembly.   As was true with Cheerful and the Winnie,  All of the parts are laser cut.  In this case yellow cedar was used.  But there is one major difference.  On the Winnie, you could just punch out the pieces and glue them together with little or no tweaking.  But this model is being built at 3/8" scale.  That means the parts are much thicker than with Winnie.

 
The laser cutter as you know will not cut with the edges at a perfect right angle.  Normally I would just flip some parts and that would do the trick so everyone would get a perfect fit with the edges fitting nice and tight.  These parts however are so thick that even with the best of laser cutter settings, more than just an exaggerated bevel is produced.   When the wood starts to reach 5/16" or 3/8" thick, the laser starts to introduce a slight curve as well.   Most of this can be compensated for by doing my usual flipping of parts.
 
But where the edge is narrower, lets say at the end of scarph joint....the flipping isnt enough.  So each part has been strategically made a fraction longer on one end only so you can make adjustments for the tightest fit possible.
 
In fact...most edges still dont need to be touched and I recommend that you dont touch almost all of them.  I have taken the liberty of circling every edge in the stem knee assembly that should be tweaked.   I am talking about knocking off the char and sanding the edge very slightly to get a really nice fit.  Just a few swipes with a sanding stick along these narrower edges and you will have a perfect fit.  Not too much though.  Test the it regularly and flip it over to look at the joint on both sides.   
 
Just a quick hitting with the sanding sticks on the edges marked with red circles will make these parts fit nice and tight.
 

Also Note 
 
The lower end of the stem will form an actual and true boxing joint.   But to simplify the building process this segment of the stem needs to be built in two layers.  I will do this a lot on this project which you will soon see.  Make sure you assemble the two layers carefully and have the longer piece on the correct side.   The two halves were glued together first and then that segment was glued onto the completed head/stem assembly after tweaking the scarph joint for a tight fit.  Hope that makes sense.
 

Also note above the dashed red line where the boxing joint will be.  The top layer of the stem was left a bit longer than needed to assure it could be trimmed back flush with the end of the gripe.  I used a sharp #11 blade to slice it back so it was flush and neat.  You can see this was done on my assembly already but once you glue that segment of the stem on your assembly you will see its just a hair too long....that was done intentionally so you could get a great fit on your model and the boxing joint will have nice tight seams.
 
Once completed the thinner knee of the head was also sanded and installed...note how that is pre notched to receive head timbers much later in the project.  Just center it port to starboard.   Dont sand any laser char off at all until you test it on your assembly.   It will fit almost perfect from the get go so only the edges that are visible after gluing it in position should be sanded free of char.  This piece can be delicate so more than one laser cut piece is provided just in case.
 
Now it was time to thin down and taper the entire head assembly to receive the figurehead.  The fore edge of the stem was sanded so a graceful bevel was introduced.  Just like on the Winnie.   The forward edge was reduced to 4mm so the space between the legs of the figure will actually fit.  Otherwise the figurehead will not fit...I wont go nutty with the instructions here because so much of this is repeated from the Winnie and other projects.   But this completes the first part of of the project which means its truly official now.
 

The start of my build log...always a very exciting moment for a model builder!!
 
I am assuming most of you are somewhat familiar with the Ketch Rigged English Sloop Speedwell - 1752.   David Antscherl and Greg Herbert have produced a wonderful series of books for model builders on how to build a great model of her.   Not only can you build one as a POF model,  but as a POB and lift model as well.
 
Why would I choose this as my subject.  Those of you that know me,  I have always selected a subject that was unique at the time.  Never been done!!!  The Syren, The Winnie, The Cheerful etc.  I chose this subject for several reasons actually, knowing full well that this would become a commercial laser cut kit like my other Syren projects.
 
First- I never really wanted to build a POF model.  I prefer the look of a fully planked hull myself.  But the craftsman side of me won out as I was looking for a challenge beyond just another POB project.  I can build those and sometimes it feels like I am just going through the formulaic motions with each of them.   This would certainly be a design and engineering challenge as much as a builder challenge.
 


Second-  I am always increasingly frustrated and disappointed to regularly see pirated kits come out almost monthly as of late.  Mostly all the rage are those POF kits from China. 
 
A coincidence??  That almost all of them released are also subjects of Ancre, Seawatch, or Anatomy of the Ship Books.  I think not.
 
You may have noticed the latest pirated kit produced from one of David Antscherl's designs, the Hayling Hoy is now making its rounds.  None of the parts fit as is typical and the instructions render this kit almost unbuildable....again very typical.  Just check out the build logs of pirated Hayling kit from China on other forums.  Its a complete disaster and a waste of money.  Literally unbuildable but they are still selling them to unsuspecting builders.
 
So I reached out to David and Greg and asked them if I could develop the Speedwell before a really bad pirated version is released (and one is actually on the way-surprised?)  They agreed and are as excited as I am about it.  I just dont want to see a crappy unbuildable version of Speedwell being sold to builders.   Hopefully they will wait until this one is released.  Maybe I should do one of Hayling as well. LOL.
 
My goal...to design a kit based on the books where the parts actually do fit.   One that would encourage POF building for folks who want to give it a try.   To also write a set of English instructions that are in depth and easy to understand.  In short, to make a legitimate kit of from a Seawatch book under license and permission from the author with the authors help and guidance.  Will this stop folks from building the knock-off version when it comes out.....probably not.  But at least you will now have a choice.  The pirated version of Speedwell is currently almost ready and being done by the same company who pirated Hayling.   Coincidence again??  I think not.
 
Also and I dont mean to digress....but a pirated version of yet another Seawatch book....Ed Tosti's Naiad Frigate is also set for release very soon as well.   Again a coincidence...I think Not.    Why dont you ever see a subject from these guys that wasnt first a Seawatch Book or Ancre book?   Honest inquiring minds want to know.
 
Anyway
 
There will be differences between my Speedwell of course.  I will be modifying it for simplicity so  you dont have to be a master builder with every expensive tool in shop.   The design concept for this POF model will be unique and allow a novice and intermediate builder to tackle it.   It will also be at 3/8" scale which should also make it much easier to build.  
 
Here is the preliminary framing plan which will show just how different it will be.
 

It will be planked from the wales upward so there is no reason to over complicate the project with bent frames....If you compared this to David's plan it is completely different.  BUT make no mistake.   Yes the folks who pirate these POF projects will claim its different and therefore original. 
 
BUT make no mistake.  This is a 100% copy of Davids work.   All of this is directly lifted from his plans and only modified to make production and building a bit easier.   But it is a copy...literally traced.  But the difference here is I give full credit to David and will be paying for the privilege to use his knowledge and expertise and hard work and years of research on this subject.  
 
I do hope you will swing over a chair and watch this new Speedwell project come to life.  A huge thank you to David and to Greg who will no doubt think I am pain in biscuit by the time this is completed.
 
speedwellsheetone.pdf
 
speedwellsheettwo.pdf
 
speedwellsheetthree.pdf
 
SpeedChapOneMono.pdf

SpeedChapTwoMono.pdf
 
 
 

https://www.heritagedaily.com/2022/11/14th-century-shipwrecks-discovered-in-sweden/145395?fbclid=IwAR1dVHRYf1SbuQf6XKTnsh5NDJNWBEyYD7sEJvaXjNkaBcN7dMYJtZwGdAE

So the jib halyards are done. While documenting where I belayed the lines, I was curious as to exactly what each jib sail was called. Wikipedia to the rescue, here's their take:
 
Schooners typically have up to three jibs. the foremast one sets on the topmast forestay and is generally called the jib topsail, a second on the main forestay is called the jib, and the innermost is called the staysail. Actually, all three sails are both jibs and staysails in the generic sense......
 
A large square-rigged ship typically has four jibs, but could have as many as six. From forward to aft, these sails are called;
Jib of jibs
Spindle jib
Flying jib
Outer jib
Inner jib
Fore (topmast) staysail

Lower Stays and Shrouds:
 
Finished the lower and futtock shrouds plus a few miscellaneous pieces of rigging to break things up some. Will do the upper shrouds next and will continue only serving the forward most shroud to protect it from sails rubbing. Will probably do the ratlines once all the shrouds are in place. Still trying not to tie off lines as long as possible to make any adjustments easier but I think I'll need to tie off the bowsprit rigging pretty soon just to tidy things up for rigging the foremast.
 
Started reading "Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast" by R C Anderson and I probably should have started this book with the kit just to give myself time to digest all the information in it but I'll try to focus on the areas in the book that correspond to what I'm working on and try to rig as authentically as possible. There's still a lot of guesswork involved but can always fall back on the plans (for better or worse) if needed.

Thanks form the kind words Håkan. Slow and methodical was my method. I basically followed Chucks method of blank bending. I think you will do fine, your framing on the Atlantica looks excellent.

That is some excellent planking you're showing us in the previous post!
I am a bit nervous for my own planking since I have planked only two hulls and that whas 30+ years ago.
 
Keep it up!

Lilla Dan is a nice little ship. I look forward to your build log of it. In general I like the subjects that Billing produces, but few of their fittings.

Watching this with more and more interest as i have purchased billings Lilla Dan and will most likely be replacing the plastic mast caps and cross/trestle trees as per your build.
 
Keith

My warmest greetings to you on your special day!

My warmest greetings to you on your special day!

My warmest greetings to you on your special day!

My warmest greetings to you on your special day!

My warmest greetings to you on your special day!

My warmest greetings to you on your special day!

During the last hour online, I have found out that several of my accounts (passwords) has been compromised.
This doesn't only include my account at MSW but many others as well.
Please don't reply to Any new "FRIEND REQUEST" or weird answers!

During the last hour online, I have found out that several of my accounts (passwords) has been compromised.
This doesn't only include my account at MSW but many others as well.
Please don't reply to Any new "FRIEND REQUEST" or weird answers!

During the last hour online, I have found out that several of my accounts (passwords) has been compromised.
This doesn't only include my account at MSW but many others as well.
Please don't reply to Any new "FRIEND REQUEST" or weird answers!

During the last hour online, I have found out that several of my accounts (passwords) has been compromised.
This doesn't only include my account at MSW but many others as well.
Please don't reply to Any new "FRIEND REQUEST" or weird answers!

During the last hour online, I have found out that several of my accounts (passwords) has been compromised.
This doesn't only include my account at MSW but many others as well.
Please don't reply to Any new "FRIEND REQUEST" or weird answers!

I have one from my RC plane days in the late 1970’s and it still works! When I was learning the wooden ship building trade and watching the planking videos, that iron came out of deep storage. Then the good wife donated 2 of her backup hair curling irons (large and small diameter) for the cause. 😀

This iron is a leftover from my model aircraft days. It's made for the shrink covering on airplanes. The shape of the iron head gives it the ability to fit about any application. What I like most is the built in thermostat so it stays at just the right temperature for bending. 

While scouting the different build logs I came across a NRG Half Hull Planking Project by T Livine and decided that I should get this and learn the proper technique. After receiving this tutorial kit I did my usual kit inventory and all was well. The bulkheads are thicker than what is normally found in the kit and that in itself makes the fairing (shaping) of the hull easier AND it gives more surface for the planks to adhere to the bulkheads. So without further ado, I begin. Pictures will be aded at the end of this segment.
 
Following the instructions I attached the the plan to the building board (1/4 inch foam board) purchase from our local craft store. Then I carefully removed the parts for the beginning of the build. The stem post, keel, keelson, stern post etc. and dry fit them all on the plan. The slots in the keelson for the frames were cut a little narrow which allowed for a better fit after some slight sanding. Then came the first of my worries...the rabbet. Kits usually don't have nor do they mention a thing about cutting the rabbet. I thought of trying it on my Mayflower build but not knowing enough I refrained from trying its until I learned the correct way. This kit was great at teaching the proper way to cut the rabbet. I wish I had known about this kits for my other builds. After reading and re-reading the method in the tutorial, I carefully marked the rabbet and used a small file to carve it out. I think I did a fairly good job of it.
 
I then removed the frames from the supplied sheets and sanded off the char so the frames could be glued. Did you know that glue doesn't hold well on the areas with char from the laser cuts? I didn't! Starting with the first three frames, I had to file just a little off of one of the slots in the keelson for the frame. It took me three days to get all the frames mounted to the keelson and now I have to add the supplied spacers between frames for stability and strength. Next thing will be to mark the bearding line and remove the deadwood below and aft of it.
 
Well stay tuned. I'll add the missing photos when I figure out why they won't post here. Until next post....build on!

Dry fitting the keel, keelson and stem post.

Marking the Rabbet on the Keel and Keelson


After twisting my knee working outside, I finally got back to the planking tutorial. I tackled the bearding Lind, deadwood nd most of the remaining frames. I still have a few remaining frames and the transom to take care of before I start fairing the frames. This time I won't have the false deck to help me get the shape correct but this IS a tutorial right! These next photos are where I am in the build now. Somehow the last photo wants to upload upside down. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

That's probably the best flag I have seen in a long time.

That's probably the best flag I have seen in a long time.