Nirvana

Thanks for the likes 😊
and here they are!! Now its time to glue them on😉
 
Svein.erik 

Thanks for the liks, my last photo is a test rigging of the corronades! 
 
Svein.erik 

Thanks everyone for the liks and comments 😊 breech line are finish for the corronades 
and used brown tread sizeing .
I can now get the photo out , no error 200😃
So here it is !!
 
 

I would suggest a paint shop selling paint for cars. You will get amazing result with that type of paint.
You will also lay down couple of layers of putty (preferably auto putty (sanding in-between)) and primer as well, that if you want a great finish.
Look at my T37, which is pro-painted (not by me of course). My yacht has 12 layers of blue coating and two layers of clear coat on top of primer.

I would suggest a paint shop selling paint for cars. You will get amazing result with that type of paint.
You will also lay down couple of layers of putty (preferably auto putty (sanding in-between)) and primer as well, that if you want a great finish.
Look at my T37, which is pro-painted (not by me of course). My yacht has 12 layers of blue coating and two layers of clear coat on top of primer.

Not a Bassett hound? I thought a Beagle had four legs ….  lol

The standing rigging must be a walk in the park considering the complexity of the running rigging. Very well done Messis, a very clean and crisp build

Great idea, wonder if that solution would work without laser cutter?

Not a Bassett hound? I thought a Beagle had four legs ….  lol

Not a Bassett hound? I thought a Beagle had four legs ….  lol

looks very good.  Very nice 😄

I have finished the staysail rigging. I am a bit behind on the rope coils, so before I make a start on the yards, I'll play around with making up a set of different type of rope coils to see how they fit and look. But that will be the subject of my next update. For now just a few photo's on how she is coming together. I'm genuinely still amazed I got this far and still loving the look of her every time I walk into the shed.
Looking at the chapter where the yards are being rigged it ain't going to get any easier from here.....lol
Here are some photo's...

Thanks for all the likes again.
Next is the gaff and boom addition. One of the instructions was to seize a length of line to the 1/8" double block under the main top. As I didn't allow for this when I put the block in place there wasn't anything to seize the line onto (maybe I am still missing something...) So I decided to cut the block off and re-install it with the additional line attached. I also realized (after a while scratching my head....) that I had forgotten the 2 blocks for the boom topping lifts. So they had to be fitted under the main top as well. Not the neatest job, but I do now fully appreciate the reason for adding all these blocks when the masts are build...lol. Hand drilling upwards under the top with the rigging in place was a bit of a challenge.
Here are a few photo's...
Cheers, Peter

Thanks for all the likes again.
Just an update with some photo's to mark the milestone of finishing the standing rigging.
Onwards to Chapter 19 - the construction of the yards and the running rigging.
Cheers, Peter

And guess what? IT WORKED! So well, in fact, that we will be adding this into the three kits we offer that have battens (Pauline, Bowdoin, and Notman)

So the rigging is done, and it's time to add the battens to the port shrouds. Now, that's a job I don't particularly like. After attaching hundreds of them on the Charles Notman, I decided to try something new and novel. Why not laser cut the battens at the correct spacing, and leave a support strip on each side? That way you have a single piece, correctly spaced, that you can glue to the shrouds. When the glue dries, all you have to do is snip off the excess, and you have perfectly spaced battens the easy way!

And the story goes....

I am sure, that a "block tumbler" will "kill" the cleats and even the blocks!
Be not such lazy!
All these details need to be made only manually and with love!
It is better to spend couple of excess days, than then to be ashamed of the minute weakness...
 

I am using Chuck's cleats in the building of the Bluenose, see the latest picture in my build log where I had to alter them according to the plans.
Take a look at this picture of the fife rail, and where you have the base legs.

From another part of PNW, Connell WA I greet you warmly.
We have record level of snow, received about two years amount of snow, and more is to come.
Ship modelling is a good therapy when stress sets in, well at least for me.
Stay warm, find yourself a good starting kit from Bluejacket Inc. or ModelExpo-online.
Get a build log started, we are here to help when issues sets in. 

From another part of PNW, Connell WA I greet you warmly.
We have record level of snow, received about two years amount of snow, and more is to come.
Ship modelling is a good therapy when stress sets in, well at least for me.
Stay warm, find yourself a good starting kit from Bluejacket Inc. or ModelExpo-online.
Get a build log started, we are here to help when issues sets in. 

And a picture

Chris, maybe some interesting info


 
Danish boat design

As a result of the British confiscation and destruction of large parts of the Danish-Norwegian fleet during the assault on Copenhagen, the Dano-Norwegian government decided to build gunboats in large numbers to compensate the loss. The gunboats were originally designed by a Swede, Fredrik Henrik af Chapman, and the strategic advantage of gunboats lay in the fact that they could be produced rapidly and inexpensively throughout the kingdom. The tactical advantages were that they were highly manoeuvrable, especially in still and shallow waters and presented small targets. On the other hand, the boats were vulnerable and likely to sink from a single hit. They therefore could not be used in rough seas, and they were less effective against large warships. Still, the Danish-Norwegian government produced more than 200 gunboats in two models: the shallop gunboat which had a crew of 76 men, with an 18- or 24-pounder cannon in the bow and another in the stern, and the smaller barge type that had a total crew of 24 men, armed with a single 24-pounder.
The Danish Commander (and later Admiral) Steen Andersen Bille (1751–1833) is credited with being the driving force behind the post-1807 Dano-Norwegian strategy of gunboat warfare. We owe Junior Lieutenant Garde, himself a commander of one of the larger type of gunboats, for a description of each of the four classes of gunboat.

Kanonjollen: These were the smaller type of gunboat. Each was armed with one 24-pound cannon and two 4-pound howitzers, and had wartime establishment of 41 men.


And here is a plan  from the Swedish Maritime Museum with a drawing of the KanonJolle
 

From another part of PNW, Connell WA I greet you warmly.
We have record level of snow, received about two years amount of snow, and more is to come.
Ship modelling is a good therapy when stress sets in, well at least for me.
Stay warm, find yourself a good starting kit from Bluejacket Inc. or ModelExpo-online.
Get a build log started, we are here to help when issues sets in. 

Kortes, 
I just went trough the build log of yours. Beautiful craftsmanship.
It's funny how many words from the Dutch that are similar to Swedish.