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Everything posted by Ulises Victoria
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One very common beginner mistake when weathering using the dry brushing technique, is that at first you see nothing happening, then all of a sudden you start seeing some nice result and think. "Oh look, this looks great, let's do it some more and it will get better" WRONG!!! STOP RIGHT THERE!!! When dry brushing weathering effects usually less is better. Weathering shouldn't be seen, it should be "perceived". This I have learned through years of experimentation, way before the internet and sites like this one.
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The painting of a 17th century ships hull
Ulises Victoria replied to silverfoxes's topic in Nautical/Naval History
There used to be a color in the Floquil line of paints named "Antique White". This color was, in my opinion, perfect for that "dirty" white that used to be painted below the waterline. Don't use "pure" white. Add a few drops of brown, green, yellow or even gray to the white paint to make it look more authentic. Hope this helps. Edit: Floquil paints, unfortunately, are no longer available. -
Hello. Please see post # 2 in this thread: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10234-weathering-sailing-ships/?hl=%2Bsanta+%2Bmaria#entry306377
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Tweezers Deal
Ulises Victoria replied to Ulises Victoria's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
They have 544 customer reviews, 67% of which are in the 5 and 4 star category, but as mentioned before, at that price, how bad can they be? -
Tweezers Deal
Ulises Victoria replied to Ulises Victoria's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
It's going to take forever to receive them, but we are known for not being in a hurry, are we? -
6 Non-Magnetic Anti-static tweezers for $2.98 usd and free shipping? What a deal. At that price, how bad can they be? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DVIEJ14?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 Ulises
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Hello all. I think I read somewhere that Microlux equipment, sold by Micro Mark, is the same as Proxxon only with a different name? Can someone confirm/deny this, please? Thanks Ulises
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Hello Bipper. I will be using these paints on my Royal Louis. I can not actually tell how they work as I have not used them yet, but for what I have learned, they are specially formulated to be used on bare wood and look "antique and authentic". Woodcraft carries these. http://www.milkpaint.com/
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Thank you Antony. Means a lot. Due to some life stuff I have not been able to work on mi ship as much as I would like, so progress, and thus build updates are slow. I am presently working on the second planking above the wales. As soon as there is some advance worth of showing, I will post. Best regards.
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- Royal Louis
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Not wanting to start a debate here, but if this was true, Coleman, you would finish this ship in less than one year. That's a lot faster than most of us can achieve. Besides, if there is one thing you need in this hobby is Patience. Best regards.
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Not the SotS, but my very first wooden ship that I completed was the San Juan Bautista which I bought in weekly installments over 100 weeks. Cons: 1.- It costs more than buying a kit; 2.- You can never be sure that the shipments will be completed until you receive the very last issue; 3.- It takes a long time to gather all the pieces materials and instructions. Pros: 1.- For some people is easier to spend x amount monthly than over 1,000 Dlls in one installment to get a kit; 2.- The instructions come much much more detailed, as they give you one set of instructions per week. (or month, depending on your plan) (I got over 600 pages of instructions fro my San Juan Bautista). Even at 2 vs 3, I think Pros win over Cons.
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Thanks for the tips and comments about coppering, and a bit of history, Nigel. There is so little I have found about this ship, that every bit is very welcome. Arthur: I didn't think of that. That is another option to think about. Appreciate it, my friend!
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- Royal Louis
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Thank you Ed! It was alright with a nice steak dinner with a Chilean red
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- Royal Louis
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Well I finally finished the planking below the wales. I plan to give this ship a weathered but not abused look, so if it looks dirty to you now its on purpose. Some weathering effects will be added to the whole hull once it is fully planked. This first photo is before scraping, sanding and application of Boiled Linseed Oil. After finishing Here you will see the beginning of the second planking above the wales. You will see that I was trying to cut pieces to fit between the frames. I finally decided against this method as there are greater chances that something is going to be wrong. I think I will place full length planks and later cut and shape the gunport openings. Thank you for watching, and if you have comments, more than welcome.
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- Royal Louis
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Fiskars #11 blade knife
Ulises Victoria replied to JohnB40's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I like it so much. Just got it for US $3.77 total at Amazon. -
Can't you cut just about an inch of one edge so you can experiment? Or use the underneath side? Or maybe buy a small piece so you can experiment? Several oils will bring the grain out: Tung oil or Boiled linseed oil. I have used the later extensively in my pen turning activity, not so much tung oil. In any case, experiment is a must whenever you are attempting something like this for the first time. Maybe someone with more experience can help more!
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Ain't it feels great?
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Excellent work, my friend. Nice shade of red on those lids!
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- caldercraft
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Thank you George and Mike. Your comments are really appreciated. Still a lot of work to do on that planking. Hope to post photos of the finished work soon. I asked a question about planking wood finishing somewhere else. Hope to get responses to do a better job!
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- Royal Louis
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