alde
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Everything posted by alde
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That's a very clever way of cutting the rabbit on the long stock. As simple as it is I would never have thought of it. Do you run the mill at very high speed when working with wood? I was very pleased with how clean the rabbit was for my Triton Cross Section using the mill. I just ran it as fast as it would go.- 504 replies
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Yea, I'm really looking forward to getting to more detail work. I have also been looking at photos of schooners and see a few with the colors I am thinking about. I like the look. I don't know why this is not a more popular kit. The hull goes together pretty easy and I think she's a good looking boat. It's really a perfect kits for a beginner.
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Hamilton, I was thinking white and grey would look good. I want to keep it simple.
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Mick, I have Goodwins Construction and Fitting book. I guess I better get to reading. So much to learn but that is one of the things I love about this hobby.
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I have been a little preoccupied with the Triton Cross Section but have not forgotten the Glad Tidings. I have put some paint to the hull and wanted some opinions of the green color. Would this be an appropriate color for a 19th Century fishing boat? I think I like it but am not really 100% sure about it. I am thinking of going with the yellow as it was built by Chapelle but wanted something different. I may go that way after all. What do you all think? For some reason the picture shows up with the bow cut off but if you click on it you can see the full hull.
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Mick, A question. Do the historical building references tell us why they only bolted every other frame to the keel? Are the bolts only to hold the keelson down while it holds the frames to the keel? Not that it matters. I just would have thought they would want to add as much strength to the structure as possible.
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Kurt, It was Micks log that inspired me to order the Washington Galley plan set and also start a Triton Cross Section build. He is a true credit to the hobby.
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Thanks for looking in Mick. I just have 3 sets of frame timbers to cut out and then they will start to go together. I was planning on stopping at a glass shop to order a couple of pieces of tempered glass. It really does sound like a great way to keep everything flat and even pressure for the glue joints.
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Those look great Jesse. A big improvement over the kit parts for sure.
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Mark, I have been doing that and maybe I am just over thinking it. I tend to do that. In the past it would keep me from doing things but I'm getting over that and just doing it more often. Thanks again for your help.
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Mark, that sounds like a great way to keep everything nice and flat. I like it and will give it a shot. I really appreciate it.
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Per request to keep the pictures coming here we go. I decided to make the False Keel from ebony as shown on the material list. I think it gives a nice contrast. It's my first and only glue joint on this project so far. There is also a shot of my frame parts and a dry fit frame part on the keel. The keel is made from Boxwood and the frame timbers are Swiss Pear. I can't wait to get a frame glued up. Maybe in the next few days.
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I have a question about gluing up the frames. My terminology might not be correct so please bear with me. When I glue up the first layer how do I get enough pressure on the butt joints to get a solid joint? I guess they can be clamped to the building board and pushed together. Does this make sense?
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Thanks Joe, I will try to get more pictures posted in the next few days. I might work on getting a frame glued up first. I still have 3 frame sets to cut out too. As much as I have been enjoying kits this is a bit more fun for me. I enjoy figuring out how to make parts from the plans.
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Jaager, Thank you for the great information. Let me give you an idea of my situation. I have been a modeler all my life, mostly plastic. I have also always loved maritime history and wooden ships and in the last couple of years have built a couple of kits. I have been buying hand and power tools in preparing for retirement and bigger wood ship kits and scratch building. I will be retiring in just over 3 weeks from now. I have a 9" band saw still sealed in the box, a spindle sander in the box, a Sherline mill and lathe and 3 weeks ago got my Byrnes Table saw. I have also ordered the Byrnes Thickness Sander and Disk Sander. I think of them as an investment for my years of retirement. I plan to build a couple of more kits and do some simple scratch building until I have more confidence in my skills to do a big scratch project like the frigate HMS Naiad or a Swan Class sloop. I probably have too many tools already but I have worked a long to be able to do what I want when I retire and this has turned into a passion for me. It's a skill that I really want to develop into an art like so many on this forum have. I may never get there but sure want to try.
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Jaager, I will be doing some scratch building so frames and such. Whatever will be required for a scratch project. I will probably use a hand jewelers saw for really small intricate work. I got pretty handy with it cutting the details on coins. I will see what the local DIY stores have. One thing I would like is dust collection. It sure helps keep thing cleaner.
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It looks like my friend is getting a new scroll saw and I will be shopping for a new one. I appreciate all the input. Any thoughts on the commercially available saws? I can't go overboard on the price. I need to keep it fairly reasonable.
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Thanks for the warning, I almost did.
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I have a Delta single speed scroll saw that I have never had out of the box in over 3 years that I have owned it. Now that I am getting deeper into building I will be needing a scroll saw but am not sure if this is the best one for me. Would I be better off with a variable speed saw? Are there advantages to it? I have a friend that wants my NIB old one and I am happy to give it to him if it's worth replacing.
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Mick, As I am cutting out the frame parts for my Triton cross section I am looking over your Washington Galley build again. Maybe I missed it due to lake of sleep but I am wondering what your primary tool is for shaping and sanding the frames after they are cut out. Do you use a spindle sander for the inside curves? I have 3 sets of frame parts left to cut out and then I will start putting them together. I do wish I left more wood on the outside of the lines for fairing like you did but will live with what I have unless it becomes a problem. Thanks for any information.
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Your scroll saw cuts look perfect. I cut my first pieces too close to the line. I need more meat for fairing.
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Richard, I didn't take any pictures but I just used the Sherline vise with a strip of wood under the keel section to get the keel edge above the top of the vise and level. Then it was just a matter of getting the point of the bit lined up with the center of the rabbit and cranked down to the correct depth. Then I just ran the mill as fast as it would go and ran it down the length of the keel section. I then just flipped it over using the same settings and ran the length on the other side. It came out perfect on the first try. I used a 2 flute pointed mill bit. I don't know the angle of the flutes but I had it and it looked right. This is the first time I used the mill to make a real part so I am far from an expert.
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RedDawg, I kinda cheated on the rabbit. I used my Sherline mill. Once it was set up it took about 2 minutes.
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Opinions on Sherline DRO for Lathe
alde replied to rtropp's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have turned brass, aluminium and mild steel on mine with absolutely no trouble. It has all the power you need. The DRO is the way to go. I have one box and the kits for my mill and lathe and love it. Very easy to use and accurate. -
Cool, another Triton builder. Good luck and have fun. It's gong to be a great project.
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