US Brig Niagara by xken - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1/64

[Don Quixote]

Thanks for the log, dude! I'm getting my butt kicked by my first build, the Niagara. I haven't updated my log in a long time... (busy fun filled summer with the granddaughter) but I'm working on the "stern?" boats now. I think I have more time into those that I do the entire rest of the ship including planking and cannons.

 

Wonderful work!

[xken]

Thank you all for your kind compliments; the great thing is being able to share as well as, learn from each other on this site.

 

The mast flag ropes are in place no big deal. I then decided to rig the anchors and with no reference on the plans I looked at the fore deck as well as the reference pictures of the replica I concluded that the only open space for the anchor ropes was as shown on the replica ship.

 

Here are the steps in coiling the .045" anchor rope. First I determined that a coil diameter could be no larger than 7/8". I then soaked two 36" long lengths of rope with water and suspended them with a weight and allowed to thoroughly dry. This removed any memory of being coiled from Chuck's packaging and easier to coil.

Next I soaked a length of rope with 50/50 white glue and water and carefully started coiling on a piece of plastic bag (glue does not stick to the plastic film) up to 7/8" coil. I then let this first layer dry completely. Once dry, I added CA to the inner rings of the coil to hold them together. Wetting of the second layer will unravel the first one. Avoid CA soaking the outer ring because this will change the rope finish.

 

 

I worked with the anchors already rigged in place so as I coiled rope the length got shorter thus I added shims to take up the difference and support the coil as I worked up. The second layer was added indexing between the lower coil's rope and allowed to dry and CA added. More shimming for the third layer of the coil and keep in mind the length from the anchor to the coil in place.

 

 

Once the third layer(top) is in place allow the glue to dry and DO NOT ADD CA to the top layer. Lay the rope soaking it with the 50/50 mixture from the coil to the anchor using a paint brush to apply the mixture and poke the rope down and in place.

 

 

Repeat for the second anchor and glue the second on top of the first and lay the rope from the anchor to the coil; note due to the difference in height the second coil's top layer only fills out about two thirds of the top and is not a full layer.

 

 

While waiting for all the steps above to dry I worked on the flag design and lettering. I am going to experiment with fabric transfers used for T-shirts to make the flag. I purchased the pack of transfer paper at Staples, Avery product number 8938. Will let you know how that works. The flag is 3" high. I also added the names both bow and stern sizes. Note a reverse is included for those who wish to make decals.

Please feel free to copy this artwork and use for yourselves. Please no copying for resale.

 

 

Added cleaner artwork.

Now on to the the hammock rails and stanchions.  

Edited October 8, 2015 by xken

[GuntherMT]

Nice job on the anchor line coils.  I may steal that for the AVS, since I didn't put any holes into the lid in the scuttle, and I'm kind of afraid to try making those holes now!

[xken]

The t-shirt transfer paper worked great! Just follow the instructions. First I did the names to check that iron settings worked and they did.

 

First I used spray starch on the handkerchief, use very light coats to avoid flaking when ironing. The starch stiffens for easier cutting with a very sharp Xacto blade and minimizing the edges fraying.

 

Here are the names; keep in mind these are on a man's handkerchief hence the transparency and very light. I will spray backside first with Satin Clear to stiffen up and then with White to brighten up the Yellow in the letters. Another option for this using photo paper.

 

 

Here is the two sided flag. I cut right to the perimeter so I could make sure both sides registered to each other. Then I ironed the first side per instructions and the turned over and ironed the second side.

 

When cutting out, cut a 1/4" lead along the front edge for attachment first; then cut the other three sides. I am very pleased with how this experiment worked.

 

 

Now to think about attaching while I continue working on stanchions. I may change the .008" line that I currently have to a heavier line more testing ahead.

[Jack12477]

Nice !  I like how it came out.

[riksgewijs]

Wow, what a build.

Read it from the start. Love the way you write down what you're making and very nice pictures.

[dgbot]

Your way of doing flags is a good way of thinking outside the box. Bravo.

David B

[xken]

Well I moved onto the hammock rails and learned a lesson for the future; if these are on a ship do them before rigging the masts these would have been much easier to build in place. Anyway I was able to get them to this point working around all the existing structures and lines.

 

First I stretched the 1/32" brass strip from the kit to straighten and stiffen to be much easier to work with. One end held in a vise and the other with pliers and slightly pulled. I then formed the brass into "U" shapes by marking the depth on the jaws of needle nose pliers and bent them; trimmed the two sides to length using a strip of wood and cutting with cutters. Once formed the center flat was hammered with a 1/8" drift punch to provide a wider surface to drill with a .020" drill bit to provide a hole for a locating pin which was soldered, cleaned and trimmed.

While waiting for the Satin Black paint to dry I drilled all the location holes on the wood rail. Then I added the painted stanchions and glued them in place.

Next I added the painted wooden cap strips to the top of the stanchions using CA.

I had soaked cut pieces of the handkerchief the length of the each rail section and 1.25" wide. The dried stiffened piece was then rolled around a 1/8" dowel and rolled back in forth for the piece to retain the roll shape. The four were set aside for later use. 

Once the CA had set on all the stanchions; I hand edge formed 5/32" wood strips that were soaked in water and formed them to attain the curve in the rails; set in place and allowed to dry to take a set.

Once the 5/32" strips were dry each one was individually removed and the fabric roll carefully pressed into place with the open end facing up and on center between the cap strips.

Once the roll was in place and adjusted as needed the 5/32" top strip was glued in place.

When all the caps were in place and the glue set I then added the cable lines to the outside stanchions by first securing one end to a cleat. I did the center cable first and then was able to space the bottom and the top cables using the center one as a guide. 

 

Next I will move onto the top covers which will be the harder step. They will be 1/4" wood strips formed to match the top caps, and will be fabric covered with securing lines tied off to the larger center cable on the inside. 

[dgbot]

Your hammock stanchions came out nicely.  Also neat bravo on a job well done.

David B

[xken]

Thanks David! Here is a quick update on the flag while waiting for things to set. I soaked the flag in warm water and then formed it at the angle of the flag halyard keeping in mind the drape down 90 degrees to ground. The formed flag was held in place with clothespins and allowed to completely dry to take a set.

There was a slight release when the pins were removed and final adjusts made by hand.

 

Here is the top flag attachment with the wood toggle on the flag and the loop in the line.

 

Here is the bottom attachment point with the loop on the flag and the wood toggle on the line. This combination allow for removal of flag, adding more flags or having the line in place joined at the ends.

 

 

Now back to working on the hammock rail covers; a great deal of knot tying and just tedious and slow.

[GuntherMT]

Awesome flag!

[GLakie]

Looking good Ken! 

[xken]

I finally finished up the hammock covers; again to reinforce the making of these would have been much easier without the masts and rigging lines in place. I was able to maintain my sanity while further developing  my patience, ambidexterity, depth perception and knot tying with tweezers.

The caps were edge formed using 1/4" x 1/16" thick strips curved to match the rails. They then were painted white since the fabric was slightly transparent. Once dry each was covered in fabric glued on the bottom side wrapped over the top and down the other side and allowed to dry. The fabric standing edge was treated with 50/50 glue/water mixture to stiffen. Pencil marks on the bottom side indicated where holes were drilled in the standing edge using the .020" drill bit. Then thread was inserted into the hole and glued to the bottom side. After all the holes were drilled the standing edge was then cut down to 1/8" off the wood strip.

 

 

Once all the threads were in place and glue dry the cover was indexed to the rail making sure all the thread lines are clear and glued in place using white glue and modified clothespins as clamps. The tips of the clothespins need to clear the cannon; and reduces the clamping force so as not to crush the rail system.

 

 

When the glue was set on the cover to the rail then the fun began tying lines to the inside center cable. I found it easier to glue the knots by adding CA just below the knot and let it weep into the knot and this also provided a stiff line to cut off with small sharp at the tip scissors. 

 

 

I was able to carefully navigate all the rigging lines to tie the knots to the cable. This is where the patience and other skills came into play and you can see why this would be much easier to do without the masts and rigging in the way. Here are some views of the finished covers.

 

 

 

 

Next I will start cleaning up the belaying pin attachment points of all the rigging lines now that they have had time to stretch and relax. Make oars and other details.

 

 

 

 

 

[GLakie]

Looking good Ken!   Never seen hammock rail-covers done yet. 

[dgbot]

Looking good. I like the way it is turning out.

David B

[xken]

Started working on details that were either overlooked or needed to be done looking at both the plans and the replica brig pictures.

 

Here is how I made the sea steps based upon the pictures of the replica.

12 were needed so I cut the 1/16" x 1/2" blanks and worked on three at a time while ganged in a small spring clamp.

They were then primed and painted both the yellow and black and glued in place.

 

I turned two davit braces with the center area a hexagon while the ends were turned round tapers.

They were glued to the davits and then tied with black thread.

 

Next I addressed the capstan bars starting with 1/16" square basswood strips 1-1/4" long. The square was marked off at 5/16" and indexed into the four jaw lathe chuck and the taper filed using a sanding stick and my left middle finger as a follower while sanding. !0 wee needed.

The bars were stained and clear coated and two sets of 5 glued at an angle. The brass strips were formed, painted and glued to the oar sets. The tapered ends were tied together using brown .008" rope. Each set was then glued to the wall.

 

Here is a fixture I made to form the coiled ropes that hang on various belaying pins. This is were I am presently at making the rope coils. Once wrapped around the brass tubes they were painted with the 50/50 white glue and water mixture and allowed to dry. The two strips keep the coils elevated to facilitate removal. When dry and removed I then soaked the dried coil in water to wet and then formed for each position with a dab of 50/50 mixture at the pin to hold in place. If you get too wet touch the coil with a Q-tip to weep excess water off.

 

I varied the number of rope wraps from 3 - 6 for variety based upon the down rope position.

 

Now back to finishing up the rope coils. I am toying with adding sails which I think I would have to done before adding the life boats to make it easier.

 

 

[xken]

Just finished up the rope coils at all the attachment points this was a tedious time consuming process getting them all to hang the way gravity should have them hang versus how they wanted to hang. I went through a quick learning curve. The last of them are drying.

 

I did some research on the sail making and a couple of seasoned pros recommended that sails should be added to the yards before the yards are added to the masts. Trying afterward they will never look correct regardless of the multitude of rope lines to work through. I will save the sails for the Constitution.

 

I then turned my attention to the cutters and yawl and quickly realized it was time to add the name. I recreated the name artwork for the bow and stern with the stern location having a slight arc. Please feel free to copy for personal use; no resale.

 

I also created a correct size basic crew in picture form from the captain on down to crewman. This was so my wife could understand the relative size of the brig to people.

 

Does anyone  know of a source for this size of 3D cast period naval figures?

 

Here is a 4" x 6" image that I printed out on photo paper that will work well for what I wish to do.

 

[xken]

Here is the application of the Niagara name to the bow and the stern. The stern had to be added before rigging the yawl. This were printed using the artwork above on photo paper at 300dpi.

 

Here is the port bow name.

Here is the stern with a slight arc; keep in mind that once the yawl is added not much of this is seen.

 

Here I am adding the canvas straps that hold the yawl. First I glued the end of the strip to the top surface and then wrapped it around and glued in place for an overlapping joint. The strips are white fine canvas sprayed with starch and ironed so it could be cut with a sharp blade for a 1/16" strip.

 

 

The strips were then wrapped around the yawl and up and over the rail and attached the the upper ring on the stern bulwark. To tie the knot to the ring re-wet the strip to make it pliable and easy to tie.

 

 

Next came the two cutters. First I add the canvas rub strips to the wooden slide battens. Then I tied .018" rope to the davits using a clove hitch half way between the cleat and the end sheave. Wrapped the ropes around the cutters while suspended in place and tied a clove hitch to the round section of the davit brace and cinched up to hold the cutter parallel to the water level.

 

 

Here is a close up showing better detail.

 

 

This shows an overview of all in place. 

 

 

Now to make up the oars for them and any other details like the 20 sweeps which are mentioned on the plans, but no information on where they were stowed. Ideas on where they ought to be stowed would be appreciated, or if they need to be added at all.

 

[Jack12477]

Beautiful job, Ken.

[GLakie]

The ship's name and cutters turned out great Ken. She's a splendid looking model.  I don't believe the sweeps would be visible when stowed, as they would no doubt be stowed below the spar deck, keeping it uncluttered, so you probably don't need to make those.

[AvesP]

Althrought your build, I seemingly overlooked your keel clamp. As I go back and review your log for notes, I am impressed with the clamp and would like to know if it is of your own design or purchased.

[dgbot]

Your Niagara is really shaping up nicely.  I like the attention you are giving to the details.

David B

[xken]

Thanks for your kind words on this build!

AvesP the clamp is the purchased Fair-a-frame from Model Expo and I added a strip to one side to work as a clamp. In the picture below it is the upper strip with the bar code; glued and nailed to the Fair-a-frame strip.  This served me very well as I was able to turn horizontally flat on the antique drafting table that I use to build this and when an elevation angle was needed I used a rolled up towel under one end to position as needed.

 

I am now going to turn oars for the small boats and start thinking of a base.

 

 

[xken]

Spent a little time learning about oars; but could not find any details on how they were stowed in the boats so I used my judgement. Rather than one big bundle I split them into two bundles and lashed to the seats on either side of the tackle.

 

I also documented the process I used to fabricate them for the benefit of other novices like myself. I used the 1/8" square basswood strips supplied in the kit. I would have preferred to use a harder wood like maple for lathe turning since the basswood was stringy and soft. Slow gouging, sanding and patience was needed. Also to help I hardened the live center end of the strip with CA to keep the live center in place.

 

I setup my Sherline lathe to use the gouge cut on the backside and the front cut for the 90 degree shoulder for a reference point when cutting the blade. A picture is worth a thousand words so here are several showing the process from start to stowed.

 

 

Now to finish up some minor details and build a temporary base.

 

[dgbot]

Your oars came out great.

David B

[xken]

Designed up an earthquake resistant base since we live on the central coast of California that is more of a cradle design than the traditional pedestal type. I also added a location for a brass nameplate that I will have made. I photographed it in primer before painting black so the picture would be clearer to understand. I am using hard wood maple clamps with the rear side being tapped with 8-32NC threads for the clamp machine screws that will press against the keel. I am showing it in the closed position because I do not want the two clamping surfaces painted in the final base. I felt that paint on paint would over time bond together. I will paint it Satin Black to compliment the black on the brig.

 

Here is the front view. The brass nameplate will be mounted on the angled surface.

 

Here is the rear view with the machine screws.

 

While working on the brig base I decided to modify the fair-a-frame working base to eliminate the wing nuts for a tighter clamp using machine screws with easier access.

I used a strip of 1/4" x 3/4" x 24" as one side of the clamp that I drilled and tapped with 8-32NC threads on center vertically in 5 locations. I clamped the brig in place and it held much tighter than my first try with the wing nuts. This clamp will be put to good use on the next build, the USS Constitution. 

 

Here are the pictures showing it.

 

 

 

 

My next post may be my last of the brig on the base completed with finished up images.

 

[xken]

Here are pictures of the finished brig other than a couple of paint touch ups here and there. Being my first ship build I learned quite a few lessons that will certainly benefit future builds. I plan on building the USS Constitution and will do a little more research and study the plans before starting the build.

 

I would also like to thank those that provided both guidance and encouragement during this build. 

 

Here are a random sampling of overall and detail pictures. 

 

Now to move on.

[GLakie]

You did an outstanding job on her Ken. Definitely one to be proud of, and one future Niagara builders would be wise to reference. 

[Seventynet]

A pleasure to look at Ken. Thanks, Ian.

[Jack12477]

Magnificent !