Albatross by KevinR - 1:32 scale - Skipjack

[KevinR]

Happy New Year Everyone! I hope everyone had a great 2015 and you have an even better 2016!

 

Well, I finished the bathroom remodel a couple of weeks back and I have finally got back to my skipjack.

 

I may not have got to work very much on the Albatross, I did thank about it often. I was thinking about the plans for the Albatross. The plans show her as she was built, as well how she appeared after being  modified to use gas powered winches (winders). I have been saying that I may come back and build the Albatross as she appeared after the modification. This would show a more complete history of skipjacks. I realized that to build both versions, it would be easier to build both hulls at the same time. I may not finish them together, but the hulls will match closer. While I worked on the remodeling I was able to put some time in, on the second keel for the later version. The new keel was such an improvement over the first keel, that I decided to create another to replace the first. Today was the first time that I was able to put any significant time on the Albatross. I was able to get all of the pieces glued and will complete the shaping tomorrow.

The new keel with the parts for the second keel. The original keel is at the top.

Gluing the aft section of the keel. I am using an aluminum angle to keep the assembly straight.

Gluing the forward section on.

 

Thank you for stopping by,

 

Catch Yall Later

[thibaultron]

When I am done with the 3D printed parts for the hand crank winch and dredge frame, I will make them public. You may be interested in the winch for your earlier version, and the frame for both.

[KevinR]

Ron, Thank you. I appreciate all of the work you have put into the hand winders. I am amazed how well they came out. You have done a great job.

 

Catch Yall Later,

[thibaultron]

I want to at least test assemble, one, before making it public. I ordered 2 sets of cheap 61-80 number drill bits, to use as axles and support rods. The frames are coming along.

 

I am also starting a log of the 2D drawing to 3D printed parts process.

[KevinR]

Ron, I have been wanting to learn CAD, just have never found enough time are patience to dive in. Maybe now is the time to give it a go.

 

Today, I sanded the second keel to the correct shape. I acquired a shop vacuum while working on the remodeling. By connecting the vacuum to the sander, I can run it inside the house. I no longer have to run in and out to sand a part.

 

I also worked on drawing the transom. Since I do not know CAD, I did it the old fashioned way with T-Square and Drawing board.

The Transom is the same for both boats. The 1942 version is just taller. The Transom is tilted at 42deg. The dashed lines at the bottom is the tapper for planking. There is 3 inch camber to the deck and that is shown by the lines on the side and in the center.The angle of the transom makes drawing the camber a bit tricky. I figured I would deal with it, when I get ready to lay th deck.

 

My goal this week is to get the transoms cut out, and create the rudder sleeves/housing.  I need to cut the tapper into the bow stem and add a notch for the chin logs. The dead rise at the bow is 12 inches. The places the chin logs resting on the keelson.

 

All of these plans do not take into account my wife's plans though.

 

Thank you for stopping by.

 

Catch Yall Later,

 

[thibaultron]

Kevin;

  I read the section in Chappelle's Small Craft book, on the skipjack "Messenger". The skipjacks with wells, did mount the winches on the main deck, according to Chappelle, just abaft the cabin. The crew stood in the well, and cranked it from there. So the shorter winch shown in the fisheries plate, would be correct for this type of skipjack.

 

 

[KevinR]

Hi everyone. I know it has been awhile since I posted an update. I have made some progress. I have added 2 permanent strongbacks. One ate the bow and the second at the stern. I have added a temporary strongback at the midship.  I am attaching the chin log to the keel and transom.

The Transom  and other parts laid out.

 

Attaching the transom.

 

The transom and the rudder case.

 

The Keel with the transom.

 

The blocks of wood for the bow.

 

The stern strongback. The strongback also supports the rudder case.

 

 

Gluing the chin logs to the transom and the stern strongback.

 

The chin log glued to the transom and nailed and glued  to the strongback. Earlier I had soaked the chin logs in water and nailed them to the forms.

 

Thanks for stopping by. Until next time

 

Catch Yall Later

[KevinR]

Good Morning All,

Thank you for stopping by. Well, I have finished the side planks on the 1899 Albatross.She is ready for the bottom planks. I am working on the 1942 Albatross this weekend. Last night I soaked the chin logs and nailed them to the forms to get the correct shape. I will get them glued into place today and start on the the side planks.

Gluing the first plank onto the 1899 Albatross. I added 3 of the side frames on each side to help hold the planks straight. They are not substantial. Their actual dimensions were some where about 2-1/2" x 5" The rest of the side frames will be added later.

 

The completed side planking on the 1899 Albatross.

 

Bow Details.

 

Stern Details.

 

The Chin logs and side planks sanded down and ready for the bottom planks.

Edited April 8, 2016 by Kevin from Hampton Roads

[ccoyle]

Just catching up on this thread. I'm actually pretty surprised at the asking price listed above for Blue Crab. $2500 seems almost like a "what's wrong with it?" kind of price.

[KevinR]

Chris,

Yes, $2500 is a low price for a nice boat. However, I believe the price is low because the Skipjack, Blue Crab, is a wooden boat. The Upkeep for wooden boats is rather high. The skipjack hulls are very shallow, so the headroom in the cabin is probably only about 4-1/2 feet. This would not be the most comfortable boat to cruise the bay in.

 

Skipjacks also require an experienced captain.The Deadrise type of hull (almost flat), has some sailing issues. You can see the flat/v-shape hull in several of the small sailboats such as the sunfish.The skipjacks are fairly good sailors, they just have one drawback, like the sunfish when they get to much wind they will capsize. Unlike the sunfish, you can't stand on the centerboard and right it. Sailing a skipjack is not for a novice. Matter of fact, I understand that the standard procedure on the skipjacks was to reef the sails before furling them for the night. That way if there was to much wind in the morning they did not have to worry.

http://www.stardem.com/news/local_news/article_50ab1065-1924-5ec1-86ce-32fb0616d30b.html

[KevinR]

Thank you for stopping by. Well I got some more done on my Albatross. I was able to get 2 planks on both side of the 1942 Albatross. While waiting on glue to dry, I worked on making the 40+ side frames for the 1899 Albatross.

 

Gluing the second plank.

 

4 planks done.

 

Making the jig to produce the side frames.

 

The first step was to cut the 3/16" wide strips down to 5/32". Then cut a 3/32" notch on one end. The notch will go over the chin log. This will represent a 2-1/2"x5" frame.

 

40 Side Frames.

 

I still need to add 3 rows of planks onto the 1942 Albatross. I hope to complete that by next weekend. I also need to make the side frames for the 1942 Albatross.

 

Catch Yall Later,

[KevinR]

Hi Everyone,

Just a quick update. All of the side planks have been added to the 1942 Albatross.

Gluing the planks on.

 

The 1942 and the 1899 Albatross with the side planks completed.

The next step is to add the side frames. I still need to produce about 30  more frames.

 

Well that is all for now.

 

Catch Yall Later,

[KevinR]

Hi everyone,

Thanks for stopping by. I know it has been awhile since my last post and unfortunately I do not have much to report. I have concentrated mostly on the 1899 Albatross, drawing up the plans for the deck beams and started adding the side frames.

 

That is all I have to report at this time.

 

Catch Yall Later,

[Omega1234]

Hi Kevin

 

Tis nice to see an update.  It's sad when life gets in the way of our hobbies, but hopefully you can work more on you ships and post more updates from now on.

 

Cheers

 

Patrick 

Edited July 9, 2016 by Omega1234

[KevinR]

Thanks for stopping by. I know it has been a while since I posted an update. Life just keeps getting in the way. Well I finished adding the side frames to the 1899 hull and planked the bottom. The next step is to cut the side planks down to where they need to be. Then I will start working on the 1942 hull to get it caught up with the 1899 hull.

I started out gluing on e plank at a time. Half way though the planking I started gluing multiple planks together. This made it easier to bend the planks to the chin log. This created a smoother planking.

 

The finished planking.

 

With winter here, I am hoping to spend more time in the shipyard.

 

Catch Yall Later,

Edited January 3, 2017 by Kevin from Hampton Roads

[KevinR]

The sides have been cut down, so it now looks more like a skipjack. I am currently working on the skeg and the stem facing.

Here is the skeg glued up and ready to b shaped.

 

Well I have a snow day tomorrow, so my plan is to complete the skeg and the stem facing. I hope to have something for show and tell at the next club meeting.

 

Catch Yall Later,

[Omega1234]

Hi Kevin

 

Some nice progress so far.

 

Will the hull be painted or varnished. Just curious.

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

[KevinR]

Patrick,

I love the look of finished wood. However, I build ships for the history. Historically, skipjacks are painted inside and out, except for the mast. My plan is to paint everything as well. The hull will be white and red below the water line. The interior will be a light grey. The deck will be white. Ironwork will be black. In reality they were a pretty boring on color.   The only wood that will be left bright is the mast, boom and jib club.

 

Thanks for asking.

[KevinR]

Hi! and welcome.

I was able to accomplish some more work on my boat today.

  The skeg has been shaped and is ready to b glued into place. I am using basswood for most of the model. I have picked up some square poplar dowels of different sizes from the local Lowes. I use the poplar where I want something harder than basswood. I used a 1/8x1/8" strip as the keel shoe.  The smallest poplar dowel is 1/4x1/4". I had to sand it down to 1/8x1/8".

  The stem facing was made from a 3/8"x3/8" poplar dowel. I first had to shave it down to 3/8/'x3/16", then taper the side into 1/8".

  I made the rudder post out of 1/4x1/4" poplar dowel, turning it in my drill. I decided to wait to add the skeg until I have the rudder completed. This way I can ensure a better fit.

 

Skeg with the template glued.

 

The Stem facing waiting to be shaped.

 

THe Skeg shaped, with the keel shoe and the stem facing shaped and ready to be glued.

 

The new Rudder post.

 

Thank you for stopping by.  I hope to have more to show soon.

 

Catch Yall Later,

[KevinR]

Hello Everyone and thanks for stopping by.

Well I have just a quick update. I Competed building the rudder. I made it from 1/4x1/4" poplar, sanded down to 1/4x1/8" and then glued up. Sorry forgot to take pictures of the in-between. I then shaped it using my belt sander. This weekend I plan on starting on my attempts to make the pintle, and gudgeon for the rudder. This will be my first attempt at making metal parts, wish me luck.

Completed Rudder and Skeg.

Rudder and Skeg Dry Fitted.

 

Until next time!

 

Catch Yall Later,

[Omega1234]

Hi Kevin

 

She's looking really good, especially now that the hull's planked and the skeg and ruddder are fitted.

 

Cheers

 

Patrick

Edited January 15, 2017 by Omega1234

[davec]

Hi Kevin - Tremendous progress. Looks great in the pictures, and was even more impressive to see for real at the club meeting yesterday. 

 

Dave

[KevinR]

Well I went to start making the pintle and gudgeon, but I could not not find the brass supplies I purchased last year. I ran out and bought more supplies. I am sure the missing supplies will show up next week.

Now what is the best way to cut brass sheets? The straps for the pintle and gudgeon are 1/16" wide.

Anyone with some recommendations?

[KevinR]

I just bought the smallest pair of tin snips That I could find at the local Ace. Hopefully it is not to big to cut what I need.

[KevinR]

Hello Everyone and thanks for stopping by.

Today I attempted to make my first metal parts, the Pentle and Gudgeon.

The first try went well. It looked good until I tried to trim it with the rotary tool. It heated up and twisted in the vise.

 

The second try went better (not smoother). I kept dropping the tiny parts on the floor. I had to re-cut a couple of times because I could not find it.

I used a hand saw to cut the tubing this time and a lot more hand filing.

I still need to notch the rudder so the gudgeon is centered under the rudder post.

 

This is the tin snips I purchased to cut the sheet of brass. I am hoping I can find some smaller. This pair is too large and makes it hard to see the score marks for cutting. Anyone have a recommendation?

 

Well that is it for today. Tomorrow is a holiday so I may get more time in tomorrow.

Untill next time,

 

Catch Yall Later,

 

 

 

[captainbob]

I have found that Bandage cutting scissors work very well on sheet brass less then .015" thick.

 

Bob

 

https://www.amazon.com/Bandage-Plaster-Cutting-Scissors-Stainless/dp/B01FA17718

 

[KevinR]

Bob,

Thank you for the info and link.

[mtaylor]

Kevin,

 

If you're not doing so, annel the brass before cutting and bending.  It makes it a lot easier to work with.

[KevinR]

Mark,

Thanks for the advice. I remember reading to annel the brass before using, but, when it came time to do it, I forgot.

 

Thanks,

[mtaylor]

Don't feel bad, Kevin.  I think we all forget things in the process.  There's just too much to remember.