Golden Hind (ex-Pelican) by Baker - FINISHED - scale 1/45 - Galleon late 16th century

[Baker]

Thanks for the positive comments and likes.

In English and Flemish.

 

Just seen on the picture

On the stern there is still an error of a few mm.

Building a hull without proper drawings and with my limited experience is not easy 

But, sometime we will get it to the finish with this model (in a few years....)

 

index

[Roger Pellett]

Your skill with that angle grinder is impressive!

 

Roger

 

[Baker]

Hallo,

 

Frames (futtocks) and gunports .

The aim is to have a better detailing of the gun deck when looking through the gunports.

If needed, there may be applied more detail later

 

It seems that this time periode the inside of the frames were not fully planked.

Frames (futtocks) are finely finished only where they have to fit together.

The other sides are rough sawn or cut out with an ax.

But on a finished model this seems sloppy.

Therefore, my futtocks are sawn and sanded

And,

It is quite possible that the frames were farther spaced. Or not.

Maybe the gun ports were smaller or larger on some ships.

And maybe some ships were planked inside.

Who knows.

All of this will be barely visible when the upperdecks are placed

More information is available via this link.

http://www.wessexarch.co.uk/files/PMA41.2Auer-Firth.pdf

 

 

First it is determined where the frames and gun ports should be

Then between the plywood frames solid pieces wood  are glued.

Softwood  “ramin”  was used here. Saws and sands easily.

There is a remarkable difference in the Ramin pieces  that are on my attic for 25 years  (very hard)

And "ramin" which I bought last year in the wood shop (very soft).

The frames are then  equal sanded.

The plywood frame is removed and replaced with a solid piece of wood and sanded.

 

Work in progress

 

A piece of the bow is removed.

In a later stage, an adjusted piece will be placed back

This should be higher. Otherwise, I'm not at the same height with my deck.

The seam will be covered by the planking of the hull.

Finish.

 

 

 

My "employee" just had to celebrate this.

From the partsbox he made this gun.

He don’t understands that  the wheels of a British crusader tank really do not belong under a medieval cannon.

Installing the cannon .

 

Fire.

Test succeeded.

Everyone happy .

LOL

 

Index

[Baker]

I'm out of wood now.

So, first saw timber for planks and beams.

 

Of cherry wood pieces are made for the upper frames and beams.

Of the( real) ramin planks are sawn.

 

Cleaning

A first "batch" is ready.

 

And,

(Has nothing to do with ships. But nature is beautiful )

My bee hotel, made last year and see post N° 6, welcomes its first guests.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Insect_hotel

Index

 

[md1400cs]

Patrick,

 

Nice updates - just catching up. So like all of your tools as well. GH looking to be a great build indeed.

 

Cheers,

[Baker]

"frames" on he transom

 

When I started the construction of this model. Replicas of 16^th century ships, built or under construction,  were first used as an example to determine the thickness of the keel and stempost.

 

For some reason the keels and stempost on these ships are always very wide.

A Golden Hind in the 70ths

A Mayflower in progres

 

In contrast to the keel and stempost found at shipwrecks.

Gresham ship 

 

Therefore, stem, stern  and keel are first made thinner 1 mm on both sides.

This gives a better view.

 

After planking of the hull they will be further sanded into their final shape.

 

Beams are placed to attach the planking on the transom

As well as 2 standing knees and 2 lodging knees.

 

An example is the transom of a 16th century Spanish galleon. Found in Red Bay.

Maybe not entirely correct. But perhaps the only transom from this time that survived

Index

[Baker]

 

Planking the lower part of the transom

As can be seen, the planks are not equal in width.

 

The side edges of Planks are blackened

And the lower planks are bent around the corner.

This was done for more strength at this part of the hull

This lower space has now been left open. 

I will try to make these planks when the hull is planked.

 

Additional details are for later when the hull is planked

 

as always

thanks for watching, comments and likes

 

Index

[G.L.]

Patrick,

What kind of wood do you use for the planking?

 

G.L.

[Baker]

G.L.

 

For the gun deck simple softwood.
Easily processed and will be almost not visible on the finished model.

 

For all of the visible decks and planks of the hull. 
Ramin wood. 

These are remnants of when we built our house 25 years ago.

I dont know the correct English word. But they are "plinten" (plinths,)( The finish plank between the wood floor and the wall)

The ramin currently being sold is very soft and does not look at what was sold 25 years ago.

I do not think the real ramin is still available.

 

For the upper frames and other parts : cherry wood. 

From a cherry tree that is cut down two years ago.

 

 

[Baker]

Hallo,

 

The next step is the planking of the hull.

Before I start with this, I have a question.

Should the lowest wale lie above the waterline.

Or may he lie on the waterline or below the waterline.

I have no idea whether there are Rules for this.

 

The height of the water line is half of the width of the largest frame

15 centimeter : 2 = 7.5 centimeter (See post with explanation about the possible size of the ship)

The waterline stays where it is now ( at 7.5cm)
Only the height of the wale can be changed

 

There has been made a trial set-up.

2 wales below the gun ports

1 wale above the gun ports

Like on drawings of ships from that era.

2 wales below the gun ports

1 wale above the gun ports 

 

And a shipwreck

index

[WBlakeny]

Knap gedaan hoor, Patrick.

 

Well done, Patrick

[Baker]

Thanks to the extra Images which I received from Cristian (Thanks).

We can conclude that the bottom wale was located above the waterline.

 

Actually, if we look closely at the picture of Mathew Baker.

Then we can even determine where it was located on the hull.

 

 

On the model

The depth (waterline) is half of the width of the master frame.

So 15cm 2 = 7.5cm.

(I found this information somewhere in one of the studies of shipbuilding of this period. The depth should be approximately be the half of the width of the master frame.)

The lowest point of the wale on the model is calculated and is at 7.6cm.

0.1 cm above the waterline on the model.

After making more planks and wales start I will start planking the hull.

Maybe this weekend.
if my free time allows it

 

 

[md1400cs]

 

Patrick,

 

Really enjoy following along- great build. Your level of research is also impressive - kudos....

 

Cheers,

[Baker]

Thanks.
This Apprentice has a good master.
(The one that is now building a model of the Vasa)

 

And with a little help from my friends on MSW !!

 

 

 

Ps, What  are, is  "Kudos"

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Patrick,

 

you post some interesting pictures of some books. Please can you give more information about the title, author, ISBN and so on. Thanks.

[md1400cs]

15 hours ago, Backer said:

Thanks.
This Apprentice has a good master.
(The one that is now building a model of the Vasa)

 

And with a little help from my friends on MSW !!

 

 

 

Ps, What  are, is  "Kudos"

praise and honor received for an achievement.   

les lauriers I think that this is the French translation. Though in your country German is also very 
common as well as Dutch.

[Baker]

Michael : thanks

 

Cristian :

Most of the info i found came from the internet and is printed as a pdf. and i have some books.

Good and correct information about this period is sparse.

Things too look for with google about  shipbuilding in the late 16th century :

"Red bay shipwreck" : the San Juan, a Spanish Galleon.

"albaola.com" a modern shipyard that makes a replica of the San Juan.

 Gresham shipwreck" or "Princess channel shipwreck"

"English shipbuilding 16th century"

 

Some links on the internet :

http://um.gipuzkoakultura.net/pdf/loewe.pdf

http://www.albaola.com/en/site/building-process

http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/Furring%20in%20light%20of%2016th%20century%20ship%20design_web.pdf

http://www.maritimearchaeology.dk/downloads/Full%20thesis%20bates.pdf

http://www.wessexarch.co.uk/files/PMA41.2Auer-Firth.pdf

http://nautarch.tamu.edu/pdf-files/Myers-MA%201987.pdf

http://www.patrimoniocultural.pt/media/uploads/trabalhosdearqueologia/18/22.pdf

http://www.bricksite.com/uf/40000_49999/48372/7e570040536647340b5566f37c70ca11.pdf

 

This is very interesting.

"The Gresham ship project".

I can not make a internetlink for this. But it can be found and saved on the pc or printed for free.

 

The new lay out for the wales.

There is a good chance this will be the final layout.

Index

 

 

[Louie da fly]

Wonderful research, Patrick. I love to see someone really taking the time to search up the evidence on how ships were built, particularly ones of this period and earlier, where information is hard to get. But the Red Bay wreck and the Gresham ship are wonderful resources that just weren't available, even a decade ago.

 

Steven

[Baker]

Hallo,

 

I made wales and extra planks.

Wales are 5mm wide and 3.5mm thick.

These dimensions are slightly too large compared to shipwrecks .

After several attempts for bending the wales. I gave up ..

cold water, hot water, very hot water, steaming.

Ramin 5mm at 3.5mm will simply not bend enough.

 

So plan B.

The front part of the wale at the bow  is hand sawed from a solid piece of ramin.

And is glued.

The rest of the wale is then also be glued into place.

The scarf joints between the loose pieces of the wale will be imitated.

I don’t have the proper tools too make good scarf joints

So, This method  works more easily and will look pretty good once finished.

 

Wale N ° 1is attached.

The wales are painted black before glueing  and sanded after .

 

Now planking has started.

The planks are first soaked in water.

Are then clamped onto the model until they are dry.

Then they are glued.

 

Wale and plank info : The Gresham  Ship project

Index

[Baker]

Thank you for your visit.

 

My way of building a wooden model ship may not always be the usual method.

That's because I've been busy with plastic model building all my life.

 

The goal remains the same

Try to build a model of a ship, tank, cannon or airplane as good as possible.

 

Planking Goes slow but steady.

This is the part of the building that I do not like to do.

So it will take a while.

 

Installing the power tools  out doors does not take to long
And the cleaning is very easy
Blow all the dust away with my aircompressor haha

[Baker]

Planking the lower part of the hull (part one).

 

First i have read the articles about planking.

http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php

 

I have tried to follow the rules for planking a model ship as much as possible.

To everyone who helped with this articles, they were very helpful.

Thank you very much !! 

 

Following the information found the planks were 4.2 to 5.2 meters long

The average  thickness is 7 cm

The width varied between  36 and 48 cm

The widest planks were located at the bottom of the hull

 

Source : the Gresham ship project

 

Planking in progress

 

 

Ready for sanding

 

A first sanding is done  with sandpaper  grain 60.

Halfway in planking the lower part of the hull.

In part 2 the other half

 

Index on page 1

 

 

[md1400cs]

Patrick,

 

Super nice planking !!

 

Solid interior hull shaping allowing for single (thicker) outer planking, along with your method of cutting/bracing the planks is excellent.

I will keep this in my "memory files". I had not seen this before.

Your build will be indeed a great one when finished (;-) 

 

Cheers,

[Baker]

Thanks Michael,

 

I'm glad to be in your memory files

 

 

The combination of plywood frames and filler blocks indeed gives a solid hull

 

I remember the problems I had with my Vasa planking where I only had frames and no experience in planking...

It was then that I said. Grrr... planking a wooden hull Never again

 

For me, on the lower part of the hull, it takes  the same amount of time to place filler blocks instead of a first planking.

And  filler blocks are in my opinion better.

Errors can easily be sanded. And you have a solid basis to bend the planks.

1. Make plank in the right shape.
2. Soak them well in water
3. Clamp them onto the hull and allow to dry
4. Remove them, ad glue on the plank, clamp them on the hull and let dry.
5. Finish

The planks are always bent correctly and no expensive tools are required.

 

 

Thanks to everyone for following and likes

 

Index on page 1

 

[Baker]

 

And thank you Zoltan.

The book you advised me to buy will be very useful for the further construction of this model.

 

[WBlakeny]

Nice job on the planking! You've created a beautiful hull.

[Barbossa]

Superb work, Patrick

The pics speak for themselves, especially the bow section.

As others already noticed : the approach for building the hull may perhaps not be "academic" but it seems very effective to me. Interesting method.

Well done !

[Baker]

thanks Chris and Christian

 

My way of construction is indeed not as seen in most buildlogs.
And it takes a bit longer.

The ultimate goal is to build a model as realistic as possible.

 

[Baker]

Small update :

Planking the lower part of the hull (part two).

 

The entire lower part of the hull is planked.

Planking has been done using the same method as in Part 1.

Planking on the gun deck is started but not yet ready.

 

 

 

Next to do :

Further planking on the gun deck.

Further sanding the hull.

Make the forward part of the keel and the stempost  a little taper.

Make frames to  the upper decks in cherry wood

Etc………

 

Index in post 1

[Baker]

Hallo,

 

The cannon deck is planked.

And the upper wale is placed.

Width of the gun ports is 9 to 10mm (40 to 45 cm on a real ship)

Source: Gresham Ship Project.

 

Index

[Baker]

The stempost and the forward part of the keel is made a little tapered.

The tapered part stops between the main mast and the stern

Source : The Gresham ship project

Index