Pinta by jct - Shipyard - 1/96 scale - CARD

[catopower]

Hi jct, 

 

Sorry I'm late to the party! I'm really glad to see another Shipyard build. I saw this in the shop a couple months ago and had to slap my own hand to keep from buying it. It's a very nice looking kit and it looks like you're doing a great job! Thanks for the nice comments earlier. I don't think I deserve them, but I really did have a LOT of fun building one of these paper kits.

 

Thanks for the tip about the punch. I've heard of others using and recommending them, but I still haven't tried one out yet. But, I know that you'll get much cleaner rounds with one. 

 

I'll be following along, but everything is looking great!

[popeye the sailor]

crow's nest came out perfect!   hull looks ready to cover too.

[jct]

thx for the likes and comments...good to have you aboard Clare, you are more than welcome...it is a nice kit very good quality at a very low price

 

Yep very close Popeye...more than likely tomorrow as the weather dude is calling for rain, now sure if it will be done in one sitting but it will be started

Edited September 28, 2017 by jct

[jct]

another addition to the log...got the hull "planked" , though I'm not to pleased with the results has a bit of a clinker look between the rows.  The instructions call for the planks to be laminated to .5mm which they are but I think they would have laid better if they were half that thickness...on a wood build this could be sanded out but here it is what it is...

 

Stern

planks cut and laminated, edges painted

planking started

and finished

As you can see not a very smooth application, just hoping the rest goes smoother...one thing I have finally figured out though is that the piece numbers are also the installation sequence numbers , pretty smart way to do things actually'

Thx for looking in and for the likes and supportive comments, much appreciated

 

[jct]

OK this next move may prove fatal to the Pinta build...I really hated the look of the lower hull with the clinker effect, so I figured since I was gonna tone the lower hull anyway to closer match the finished pics of the kit cover sheet I'd attempt a fix...so each step was filled with ca to harden the edge, allowed to dry, and attacked 180 grit!!  

 

Once I got the hull fairly smooth, fairly being the operative word, I mixed some paint to closely match the keel and rudder tones and slapped it on...I didn't want to totally cover the bottom just cover the bare spots and tone the rest  so a lot of wiping the excess and applying thin washes ensued.

 

Is it 100%...not even close but my hope is to distract the eye enough to make the clinker effect not as noticeable, hoping once the rest of the ship's details go up the hull won't be such an eye catcher.

Thx for your time and attention...Pics follow

 

Sanded hull (some of you are thinking 'Is he nuts'  well, ya, kinda)

Color ready to mix...burnt sienna, raw umber, and yellow ochre

the test (close enough)

Done ( I know still looks kinda crappy)

Well that's it for now, I may get more done this afternoon, the Admiral has a bingo game to attend so I'll be left to my own devices

 

 

 

 

Edited September 30, 2017 by jct
Attempt to delete duplicate pic

[S.Coleman]

There is alot of popularity of these card kits rising here on the forum. These kits look high quality. And this is seen on this build. Your doing a master job. It all looks neat and tidy. Well done.

[jct]

Thx Scott, I appreciate your comments, the kit is very high quality, any thing preventing it form being 100% is definitely the builder

[catopower]

Hi jct,

 

I understand the problem you faced there.

 

I have been thinking about a similar issue I'll face when I get to the hull planking of my 1/96-scale HMS Mercury, which also has planking added in strips 3 or 4 planks wide. I didn't have that problem with the HMS Alert, because it has the clinker planks that go on afterwards and cover that part up. I'll probably be painting too!

 

 

 

[jct]

Hi Clare,

You might try using thinner stock the the kit instructions call for, I think it would have laid down better if it wasn't .5mm thick, just not pliable enough, I'm still not super happy with the results...still noodling on alternatives  

[catopower]

Hi jct,

What I was thinking I might do is to score the lines of the planking, which should make the piece conform a little better. It would need a light wash of paint to kill the white of the paper that would show through afterwards. I actually use paint washes pretty heavily on my HMS Alert, keeping them really thin. That worked for the most part, though I fully painted the lower hull.

 

When you turn your model over, I expect the issues you were having with the lower hull won't be so prominent. Also, something I learned with the Alert was that as soon as you put paint down on the model, it looks better, overall, if everything has a thin wash of paint on it. Evens out the look.

[jct]

Thanks to all for the likes

Thanks for the tip Clare...what type of paint are you using?  The water color I've tried pust beads up on the surface and drys blotchy, was planning to try some acrylic to see if it made a difference...

 

I was thinking of stripping the bottom hull and re-planking one plank at a time, but i need to find some appropriate paper, as I don't want this to be a hybrid , more to think about...

in the meantime I put some work into the pEak and fore deck...nothing fancy here just glue-up and edge paint

Pics follow

 

[Dan Vadas]

Why not fill and paint below the waterline with "Anti-fouling" Off- White or Black ? That would remove the bulk of the bumps . I don't know if that was historically accurate back in the late 1400's, but that may not be a concern for you. You could certainly use Acrylic for that.

 

Another option is to fill it and sand smooth. then use "timber" foil like Doris uses on her models. See THIS LINK.

 

  Danny

[jct]

Hi Danny,

I've considered your first selection and went as far as laying a heavy coat on it initially but did not care for the look, I'm considering re-planking ad you suggested but could not find a source for the material Doris uses...thx for the link I'll double check to see if she list a source there...if i cannot find suitable material I will probably just cut some 1 mm wide strips and color with varies shades and plank with them

[Dan Vadas]

9 minutes ago, jct said:

I'm considering re-planking ad you suggested but could not find a source for the material Doris uses...thx for the link I'll double check to see if she list a source there

J, if you find out what she uses let us know too . It looks like a very handy material for card modelling. Maybe send her a PM?

 

  Danny

[amateur]

I have seen references to a brand called dc-fix.

 

Jan

[Dan Vadas]

27 minutes ago, amateur said:

I have seen references to a brand called dc-fix.

 

Jan

I found it on Ebay. There seem to be several colours, but I don't have time to check any further at the moment.

 

The manufacturer seems to be Konrad Hornschuch AG.

 

  Danny

[jct]

Thanks Jan and Danny,

That is the brand that Doris uses, e-bay may be the best source for those of us in the US as they don't appear to ship to the USA...below are the links Doris provided, Thank you again Doris

 

https://www.tapety-folie.cz/d-c-fix/m-1765/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-orYtbTR1gIV7LXtCh0URASMEAAYASAAEgLkyfD_BwE

http://www.hcsdeco.cz/samolepici-folie/?vzor=Dřevo

 

and thanks everyone for the likes

[jct]

Hi all...thx for the likes and comments, I've found dc-fix vinyl on Amazon ...but I don't think that is what Doris uses

 

[catopower]

Hi jct,

 

The paint I use is the stuff that Shipyard used to sell. It's still used in their boxed kits, though they put it into their own jars. The brand is an artist's acrylic called Renesans, specifically the line called Renesans Colours, but it's a Polish brand and it's hard to get here. I really love the stuff because it's a dead flat color that has some transparency. You thin in way down and it still adheres well to the slick paper. I found a source, but it's in Poland. It's not a problem, except that they only take bank transfers as payment. In the US, banks charge $25 a pop for the privilege. 

 

 

The closest alternative that I've found are the Blick Matte Acrylics. They're again artist's acrylics, but they go on dead flat. Best thing, for artist's acrylics, they're pretty cheap at $1.99 for a 2 oz. bottle. You can get them direct from Blick: https://www.dickblick.com/products/blick-matte-acrylics/. It's actually very good and I may switch to it since it's easily available.

 

Regarding planking material, I personally found that high-end inkjet printer paper works really well. It has a very smooth surface that takes paint really well. I laminate a few sheets together using 3M spray adhesive and it should give you planks, or parts, that are strong, but flexible, easy to cut cleanly, much better than cardboard. In fact, I don't like using cardboard, I much prefer laminating these sheets together. You get much cleaner edges that won't break down the way cardboard can. 

 

[jct]

Thanks to all for the likes and suggestions, that is what I like about this site everyone is always willing to step up and assist when and where they can...kudos to all...Thanks for the info Clare, I appreciate what you're saying about cardboard, i've already had a few pieces delaminate on me, I've resorted to using manila folder material laminated together...seems ok so far.  I've got some acrylics on hand I'm going to experiment with...I'll keep you posted

no news on the build as yet...tomorrow for sure, managed to escape from work for a super long week end...talk to ya all later, thanks again

J

[jct]

Latest update...I decided to fully sand and fill the lower hull, then layoff planking zones and belts...sticking with the paper theme I made planks from manila folder cut into 1/8 inch strakes, which matches the majority of the printed kit planks

The hull was sectioned into 2 belts (red marks) and 5 zones

tick marks for the zones, used the same techniques used on a wooden hull...planking fan, tic strips etc

 

Manila strips were colored with watercolor pencils and treated to a lite brushing to even the tone

test strip

planking progress...the printed kit had steeler planks at the stern so I've included them too... hoping to get more done tomorrow

Thanks for your time and attention and for all the likes and comments

Edited October 6, 2017 by jct

[jct]

just a quick update...the hull planking is complete, not at all perfect, in fact not even close, got some gaps and pointed planks, but overall it's better than it was...Pics follow

Edited October 6, 2017 by jct

[jct]

thx for the likes...one last update for today...the keel, stem and peak are mounted...the kit supplied forepeak, stem, stern and keel are made up of 3 pieces each. laminated to .25mm thickness, you are to edge glue each of the pieces of the assemblies together to form a U shape...then affix them to the hull and each other...ya right.

 

   I  got the stern post and forepeak together ok but the stem and the keel fought back big time.  After about 45 min of try to get all the edges to align and stay at the right angle they went in the can!!

 

I had a bunch of 3mm manila strips left over from planking so I laminated them one at a time to the hull till they were built up to the right thickness for the keel and stem, once the glue dried the whole assembly was hardened with ca, treated to a light sanding then the forepeak and stern post were attached and the whole thing painted out

 

Sorry I got no assembly pics but finished shots follow

[Robin Lous]

Clever troubleshooting...it's a huge improvement! 

 

Robin 

[Dan Vadas]

43 minutes ago, jct said:

you are to edge glue each of the pieces of the assemblies together to form a U shape...then affix them to the hull and each other...ya right.

You'll probably find more problems like this, even the best kits have them. It works in theory but not in the practical world, where if you're even a fraction of a millimetre out when fairing hull frames (pretty easy to do) the assembly won't fit. Better to do the bow section first, then the bottom of the keel which you can trim at the stern, then the sternpost.

 

  Danny

[jct]

Thx Robin...

Quote

where if you're even a fraction of a millimetre out when fairing hull frames (pretty easy to do) the assembly won't fit

Hi Danny, I have noticed that with other aspects of the assembly...a bit of tolerance stackup 

THX for the comments gentlemen

[popeye the sailor]

the new planking looks good J.......the fore deck came out really nice  

[jct]

Thx Pop...I am happy with them both...I do want to try to come up with an acrylic toner to add more depth to some parts of the ship though...now that the camping season is over there may be more time

THX again

Edited October 12, 2017 by jct

[jct]

An update of sorts...early on in the build I was looking at Shipyards home site and found that they made sets of blocks and deadeyes.  They are laser cut and are just glued and stacked to finish assembly.  Seemed to me the small cost to purchase compared to the hours spent trying to accurately cut and assemble over 100 blocks and deadeyes ranging from 2-4mm would be worth it!

 

Unfortunately Shipyard no longer sells or ships to the US and Ages of Sail, their US retailer, does not carry the block kits.  So I started to search for alternatives, thinking I would just use regular wood model blocks.  Well after some searching I came across a site called Free Time and discovered that they do carry the Shipyard blocks and sell and ship to the US.  I chose Paypal as my payment method and was pleased with the customer support  and communication.

 

My parcel arrived today, registered mail,  and the product looks great.  I've attached the web address to Free Time here in case you want to take a look, (hope that's ok?)  So if you're looking for blocks for your next Shipyard build you might give Free Time a look, my experience with them was very positive.

http://www.freetime.co.ua/en/

Edited October 12, 2017 by jct

[maaaslo]

the only problem with those blocks is that they do not fit the period... otherwise, if you want to use paper only, these sets are brilliant.