Split Brass Ring Frustrations

[David Lester]

I'm looking ahead on my rigging plans for my Rattlesnake and notice quite a few instances where lines are attached to small brass rings. In the past, I've always had a difficult time with these rings. It seems that no matter how hard I try to close the ring, the line always manages to find the gap and the ring comes free. Is soldering an option for these small rings when there's a line running through it? Are there specialty pliers that will crimp them tighter than ordinary pliers? What do others do keep these pesky things in their place?

Thanks,

David

[Jim Rogers]

I solder mine after having the same frustration.

[Jack12477]

Yes, I solder mine for same reason.

[donrobinson]

Soldering is probably the best, but if you are using wire that is painted I use a small dab of medium ca

[kurtvd19]

Soldering is a good cure but you need to get the two ends aligned so there is no visible gap between the ends before soldering.  There are special loop closer pliers that squeeze the rings together w/o the tendency of common pliers to make them oval rather than round.  The pliers have a curved shape cut into the jaws that hold the ring upright so the ring ends can be squeezed together.  No need for an expensive pair as their use is light.  Any jewelers supply has them and many places selling beading supplies too.  The photo is from the Fire Mountain Gems catalog - I have a pair from this supplier.

Kurt

[popeye2sea]

Another trick to remember is to never open the ring by pulling the ends directly apart (in line with the ring).  This deforms the ring out of round and it is hard to get the two ends to meet properly again when closed.   Instead twist the ring open by spreading the ends perpendicular to the ring.  When you close the ring back up the ends will be perfectly aligned and the ring will remain round.

 

Regards,

[kurtvd19]

Henry:

Good point and 100% correct. 

However, they are not always properly aligned or closed before being opened and that's why I have the pliers.

Kurt

 

[David Lester]

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone, and so quickly!

I've ordered a pair of those "jumpring pliers" from Fire Mountain that you suggested Kurt. I have ordered copper foil from them in the past and was going to need more for my next project anyway, so killed two birds with one stone and ordered both.

 

So, now we'll see how I make out with the soldering.

Thanks again,

David

[dvm27]

As many sizes of rings are frequently required you can also make your own by winding 24 or 28 gage brass wire around the appropriate sized drill bit. After winding and making sure the ends are taut you can cut them straight down the middle with a very fine fret saw blades. Ends need to be sqared up before soldering using a file.

[Jim Rogers]

Don't forget to flux both sides.

[allanyed]

I believe all the references to soldering are for silver soldering, not soft soldering.  Be sure the ends are clean. Steel wool or a quick swipe or two with a jewelers file or even   Silver solder paste most often has flux and does not need to have a separate step to put flux on the part.     

Allan

 

Edited October 5, 2017 by allanyed

[JerseyCity Frankie]

I'm having difficulty picturing where lines would be made off to or, run through, ANY rings of any sort on a ship. Certainly a lot of lines originate at a ringbolt-for instance on the bulwarks for the cannon tackle-but those are all eyebolts.

[Jack12477]

I've had line(s) pull thru the slit in bulkhead rings that were not soldered shut.

[popeye2sea]

5 hours ago, JerseyCity Frankie said:

I'm having difficulty picturing where lines would be made off to or, run through, ANY rings of any sort on a ship. Certainly a lot of lines originate at a ringbolt-for instance on the bulwarks for the cannon tackle-but those are all eyebolts.

Some lines are larger than would fit through a standard eye bolt.  A ring bolt comes in handy for those.