Bismarck by Semorebutts - FINISHED - Trumpeter - 1/200 scale - PLASTIC - with MK1 detail set

[cog]

Depends on the tickness of the brass. For strong joins: silver solder (wire or paste, paste is easier sometimes), else solder iron with solder. I can solder wih a torch upto (or is it down to) 0.2mm brass wire with silver solder paste. Most will use the solder iron as it is very easy to burn the brass away ... You'll have to try and find out what works for you.

[semorebutts]

Looks like its gonna be alot of trailer and error.  I have an iron i just have to buy flex and solder.  Maybe micromark has somthing. 

Edited October 24, 2017 by semorebutts

[Canute]

Like Carl says, I'd use a hot iron with a sharp point, unless you have a very small torch. I've only done electrical soldering, so favor rosin core solder. It needs some cleanup. There also acid flux, which requires better cleanups. A big torch might melt away the fine brass PE.

 

I'm sure a lot of guys will fill you in on soldering technique. This is how I'd do it.

Tin your soldering iron after cleaning the tip. Put a bit of solder on the tip to tin it. Nice shiny tip means good heat transfer. Clean and flux your joint. Shiny brass, then apply your flux. Apply the heat to the joint, then touch the solder to the joint. Try not to apply the solder to your iron tip. Heat on one side, solder on the other. Move the solder away and check that you get a shiny looking solder joint. If it's not, you made a cold solder joint, which is weak. Reapply heat and have your solder handy. Make sure you get a shiny joint. Clean up the joint; I might dip it in vinegar to remove the rosin and brush clean any excess solder.

 

You may want to practice on some frets before launching into the FuMo 25, 26 and 27.

Edited October 24, 2017 by Canute
Adding verbiage

[semorebutts]

Thanks!

[semorebutts]

I'm having a hard time trying to figure out what color these life rafts were. I don't think they were grey. 

[popeye the sailor]

check here:     http://www.kbismarck.com/       look in the scale model section.....it might be in there   

[semorebutts]

Oh cool. I think im seeing white. 

[popeye the sailor]

I went looking at images........I saw a blackish gray to black with orange hooding.   I also saw a ghost gray, to off white {tinge of gray}   hopefully,  there is an article or something in there that will steer you in the right direction   

[Baker]

I searched in google for : "kriegsmarine rettungsfloß farbe"

 

And found this :  http://www.forum-marinearchiv.de/smf/index.php?topic=5660.0

 

They speak about 2 colors

Start WW2  : auf einigen Farbfotos zu erkennen, ein fahles Gelb  fahles gelb =  dirty yellow

 

 In 1941 : Schlauchboote waren Taubengrau   Taubengrau = pigeon gray

 

Hopefully, this will answer your question

 

 

[semorebutts]

Oh yes it does! Thank you. Dirty yellow it is! There is enough grey on the ship already. 

[semorebutts]

Just bought this. 

[cog]

The Trumper kit PE, and epoxy set. Nice. You'll add some weight to your build with that one!!!

[semorebutts]

I might have to unglue some things now lol. 

[semorebutts]

Trumpeter kit $250

mk1 PE $200

pontos PE $160

VM gun kits $72 and everything else I had to buy. Compressor, airbrush, all paint and glues, PE tools, tweezer set.... litterally everything. Add it all up its close to $1300!  Not to mention the custom acrylic case and display table and lighting. I bet this will hit $2000. But I LOVE every minute of it!

 

[RGL]

You can never, NEVER, have enough aftermarket 

[cog]

6 hours ago, RGL said:

You can never, NEVER, have enough aftermarket 

He's right Scott. For my Musashi I've got the Pontos, and the Flyt Hawk detail up sets, besides that I've got a few sets of railing stanchions (7 brass and metal colour), perforated gussets & support beams, water tight doors, epoxy anchors for IJN ships ... I hope to use them on other ships aswell ... that's for my first plastic /PE build. Currently distracted by a dutch sub, and I used some of the stanchions for it. Besides the PE, the tools, the paint (airbrushes/compressor/cleaning utensils/etc), I've got brass rods, sheet, and styrene rods e.a.

 

Let me put it this way: It is not for the faint hearted. However, it is fun and the support and motivation is awesome

[semorebutts]

Thank guys, very well said Cog! I do plan on the Missouri, Hornet and hood after the bismark if I have the stamina.  So it wont go to waste. 

The Pontos PE will arrive Monday but I think I can safley airbrush some parts and not have to go backwards later. 

I found this cart in the dumpster at work. Spray painted it black(during work hours of course) and made it my new paint station. 

Trying some shading, I dont know what I'm doing but I will learn.

[semorebutts]

Also my brand new expensive fantsy lathe!

[cog]

Nice spray station Scott. You've got quite a steady hand with the brush! I like the fantasy lathe ... old motor as far as I can see, not made any more nowadays

[semorebutts]

Thanks! That "lathe" was also found in the dumpster.

[cog]

That dumpster sounds like a goldmine !!!!

[semorebutts]

And painted

[semorebutts]

Painted a little bit more

painted, weathered, assembled

these little guys are about 100 years old. 

[semorebutts]

Ugh.. I'm so angry. I chipped these. I guess I should use A micro saw and not the exacto on resin. Well I gotta order another one. 

[Robin Lous]

The FuMo's look splendid!

 

Looks like a fairly easy repair job on the 10.5 cm guns.

Just give it a try before you order new ones.

[semorebutts]

I can glue the chipped pieces into place with zap a gap then try to sand it smooth. But do you think it will really work?   I will try. 

[Robin Lous]

What you can do after filling the gap with the missing bit...or scrap sheet.... You can use a small lick of acrylic paint to fill a remaining gap.

sand smooth with 1000 or 1200 grit sandpaper...repeat this a few times when needed.

 

You can fix this! 

[semorebutts]

I will try my best. At worst i have to spend 12 bucks for new ones. 

[cog]

Some putty might come in handy ... or the nearest equivalent in epoxy filler ... You will need it with plastic kits anyway ... good reason to buy it if you d not have it ... I love it when I need new materials ot tools ...

Edited October 29, 2017 by cog

[semorebutts]

So i got the Pontos advanced add on set. Opened the box only to discover more than half of what should be in there is missing! There is only PE sheets. No resin parts no brass props no pipes, or rod stock at all.  But the good news is i called freetimehobbies.com and he's going to send out everything thats not PE sheets. It's not there fault. So what happens?  Freetimehobbies just gets screwed for the cost of one set? Thats not right.