Bluenose by CPDDET - Model Shipways - Scale 1:64 - First ship build

[Ron B]

Egads man,

 

That's some skill you're learning/demonstrating ....those gears look "boss" (I think that's a pun)

 

I agree about the blacking nice shiny brass and painting wood where maybe not necessary....your wood skills are very detailed so the pieces look refined not just cobbled together.

 

I know where of you speak about working in garage...back when I lived in Montreal used to do automobile rebuilds in a sub zero weather...cut a hole in roof and installed drip kerosene heater...that almost got me divorced, but it at least ensured the Snap-On tools didn't stick to my skin...and the beer stayed cold...real cold.

 

Ron

[CPDDET]

I thought it best to build the windlass in sections with a 1/8 inch axel through each section. I’m going to post my progress as I proceed.

 

I started off making the windlass drums, also called gypsy heads among other things. Because I had plenty of cherry wood on hand I decided to use it. I first turned down a piece of ½ inch dowel rod to the largest dimension since this piece is slightly tapered.

 

 

Then turned a slight 5 degree taper.

 

 

Once that was done I shaped it with Escapement files and drilled a 1/8 inch hole for the axel.

 

 

Finished pieces before final sanding.

 

 

Next was the rope hawser side of the windlass. This is also tapered at about 5 degrees which I again did on the lathe, slightly tilting the headstock to achieve the taper.

 

 

Then drilled the 1/8 inch hole for the axle.

 

 

Here is the finished rope hawser drum

 

 

I then cut and glued on the horizontal whelps. Instead of fitting small wood pieces between these whelps I decided to cap the right end (looking forward) with a small disk. While this isn’t exactly what the plans call for, I thought it was a nice clean look.

 

 

 

For the whelps on the left end of the drum, I used a scraper to make the proper shape on a 2 inch piece of cherry wood and then cut it to the proper thickness and height.

 

 

It was much easier to use a temporary axle while gluing the whelps in place.

 

 

Here is a picture of the rope hawser drum with the whelps and windlass drum on the temporary axle.

 

 

Moving on

[Overworked724]

Awesome, Dave!  You make really nice use of that lathe. The penny is a bit cheap...you should use a dime!  😎

[CPDDET]

No dimes left after purchasing the lathe and mill. 😄😄

[dragzz]

looking good cpddet but i have to do it old way i dont have tools like that i have to work with the casting i got and there a mess most of my casting can not be used there that bad of shape and yes i did contack model ship way and thay wont help me it is what it is

[CPDDET]

That's a shame. Hopefully you can do something with files to clean them up.

[CPDDET]

My next step was to make the 3 gears. The 2 smaller ones also needed banding.

 

I made the 2 small gears and the bands for them. Drilled the proper size hole in some stock brass on the lathe, cut them to the proper thickness and cut the bands as well. Then cut the gear teeth on the mill.

 

 

 

In order to keep everything aligned during assembly I made a simple jig and glued the gears to their bands.

 

 

 

I then made the pawl wheel out of wood and made the brass bands for that as well. Also made the 2 wood spacers that would fit on either side of the pawl wheel.

 

 

Next I made the large gear wheel, no bands required for this one.

 

 

The drum for the chain side required some shaping on the lathe as well as an end piece.

 

 

For the “iron” whelps on the chain drum I used 1/32 square brass bar stock. Cut 8 pieces a bit longer than needed, bent the dog leg in them to accommodate the shape of the drum, blackened them and glued them in place on the drum. Then trimmed off the excess and blackened the cut ends.

 

 

 

 

After staining the cherry wood to make it look a bit aged (Jacobean stain) and blackening all the brass pieces I was ready to assemble the windlass.

 

 

I used the jig to keep everything in line as I glued. Then transferred the entire piece to the black painted axel, adding the supports as I did. To add some detail I placed 2 small blackened brass bolts on each supports.

 

[CPDDET]

[Overworked724]

Dave...that’s some beautiful work!!!!

[CPDDET]

Thanks, Pat. And Happy St. Paddy's Day!

 

Now have to decide about the hand brake beam that mounts on the sampson post. Use the white metal one that came with the kit or fashion my own.

 

Decisions, decisions, decisions.......

[Nirvana]

If I know you right by now, I would place my bet that you will fashion your own.

[CPDDET]

🤣

[Retired guy]

Very nice Dave 👍 isn't it nice to figure out how you are going to build something and then go and build it.

 

Regards

Richard

[CPDDET]

Yep, Richard. I'm really starting to enjoy the challenge. And the satisfaction as well.

[Ed Ku20]

Hi Dave,

Although I've been trying to stay true to Bluenose 1, I've used a lot of your ideas and techniques in my build.  I am currently working on the fore deck structures.  I like what you did with the brass fitting in the skylight holes.  Did you make that piece or did you use something you purchased?  It looks kind of like a rivet, but I can't find anything small enough.  I don't have the tools or skills to make a piece like that.  This is my first wooden ship!

 

Thanks,

Ed

 

PS. I live out near Yorkville.  I see you are also from the Chicago area.

[CPDDET]

Hey Ed, my first ship build as well. Welcome to the wonderful, tedious, maddening world of model ship building.

 

I'm almost positive I got the port lights at Modelers Central. They are in Australia so took a while to get them. You may want to ask around on one of the forums for someplace in the US.

 

Many years ago I lived in Sugar Grove. Now I'm just south of Huntley. 

 

Dave

[GrandpaPhil]

Looking good!

[CPDDET]

Sorry it’s been so long since I posted and update. But sometimes life just gets busy and priorities change. Anyway I finally finished the Brake Beam.

 

This is a photo of the plans with the Brake Beam in the upper left.

 

 

This is the ugly white metal part that came with the kit. I found it totally unacceptable and decided to make my own.

 

 

Unfortunately I didn’t do a very good job of documenting my process with photos, although I did take a few. Sometimes I get so involved in the build process I forget to pick up the camera.

 

Following is a few photos of the milling process.

 

 

 

 

 

After filing to shape I added some square brass tube to the ends of the arm and the small pieces below them.

 

 

Then added the rings that will be part of the connecting links to the Ratchet Quadrants.

 

 

So next will be the Ratchet Quadrants (see the first photo, center left). These will be a bit tricky as the core of the quadrant fits over the ratchet gear teeth and the sides of it ride on the clad disks on either side of the ratchet gear.

[DBorgens]

Your first build and you’re giving us a master class in miniature machining and assembly. I still wish I had some of your machining equipment, maybe someday if I can get away with the expense. Keep up the good work and photos to inspire us.

 

Dave B

[CPDDET]

Being obsessive compulsive can be really expensive. 🤪

[Nirvana]

Since you are at the machining stage, make another set and send me....... just kidding. 

That looks awesome!

I have to stick with the in-kit part.

[CPDDET]

Thanks, Nirvana! 

[CPDDET]

According to the plans, the ratchet quadrant should fit over the ratchet gear on the windlass. The windlass ratchet gear is clad on both sides with a solid disk and ratchet teeth extend a bit beyond the edge of these disks. It took me awhile to come up with an easy way to achieve the proper fit of the quadrant over the ratchet gear.

 

 

 

I sandwiched a 3/64 piece of basswood between 2 pieces of .010 brass sheets. The brass was easily cut with scissors and I made the pieces big enough to handle when done. This created a lot of scrap but made things much easier. At the end of the process the wood core could be filed out just a bit so that the brass outside pieces would fit over the teeth of the ratchet gear.

 

 

Gluing the three pieces together, I wrapped them with wax paper.

 

 

Then clamped them between 2 pieces of ¼ inch basswood and let dry.

 

 

After making a copy of the plan I cut out a picture of the quadrant and taped it to the sandwiched plate.

 

 

Using a ¼ inch Dremel sanding disk mounted in the mill, I formed the curve of the quadrant.

 

 

While sill mounted in on the mill, I drilled out the hole which will be needed for the linkage to connect it to the brake beam.

 

 

Using my WeCheer rotary tool and a separating disk I cut the quadrant from the sandwiched plate.

 

 

This is the finished quadrant of which I made two.

 

 

After cleaning up the brass I blackened with Casey Brass Black and added the rings for the linkage.

 

 

Now I can finish building the Sampson post and install the linkage between the quadrants and brake beam.

[GrandpaPhil]

Very nicely done!

[CPDDET]

I started the samson post assembly by first fashioning the main post and the support for the brake beam. Cut the bottom of the post to fit the deck angle and added a small wire pin to help secure it to the deck

 

 

Completed the rest of the assembly using some laser cut parts that came with the kit and some scratch built parts.

 

 

Mounted the finished assembly on a scrap piece of wood, using the pin in the base of the main post and some double stick tape for the smaller posts. After taping off a spot to mount the brake beam I air brushed the piece.

 

 

Added the brake beam and pawl and glued the assembly in place. Added the windlass, counter shaft and jumbo jib boom crutch. Still have to attach the 2 ends of the brake beam to the 2 ratchet quadrants. Not sure if I will use wire or thread coated with clear matt nail polish.

 

 

That completes 99% of the deck furniture. You may notice that there are some gear assemblies near the jumbo jib boom crutch missing as well as an engine box and linkage. But I’m building the racing version and the plans state these items were removed from the deck when racing, probably to reduce weight (especially forward weight) and to lessen the chances of fouling lines during head sail changes / tacking.

 

 

 

 

 

Now it’s on to attempt making my own bilge pumps and another boom sheet buffer.

[Nirvana]

 Nicely done! I am doing the racing version too, and again the "bilge pump" made out of white metal are ugly. Looking forward to see what you are coming up with.

Haven't decided on full or furled sails. 

[CPDDET]

24 minutes ago, Nirvana said:

 Nicely done! I am doing the racing version too, and again the "bilge pump" made out of white metal are ugly. Looking forward to see what you are coming up with.

Haven't decided on full or furled sails. 

While I'm far from it, I'm thinking furled sails at this point.

[gagliano1770]

I really want to use some 4-letter words to express my admiration of your work, but I don't want to get kicked off MSW. What you're doing is impressive and enviable.

[CPDDET]

Thanks Gagliano, your kind comments are much appreciated. But I'm still new to this hobby and trying to learn. I'm finding that each step is a build in its own right. I still struggle with the "how" to build things. I really have to slow down, think things through and ask for help before proceeding. And even then i end up remaking a part. I'm finding the bilge pumps a challenge and moving slowly on them. But it's not a hobby if we have to rush, right?

 

[CPDDET]

First off I have to thank Richard (AKA retiredguy) for his help and guidance in fashioning these bilge pumps. He has been more than generous in answering my question and providing assistance. As long as these took to build, it would have taken much longer and a lot more *#!?**#! without his help.

 

Here is a pic of the pumps that came with the kit.

 

 

And here is the plan drawing of the pumps

 

 

Starting with a 3/8 round brass stock on the lathe I turned it down to .306 inches. Painted the surface with a black marker and scribed the different areas that needed to be fashioned.

 

 

Still on the lathe I made the first cut .081 inches from the face of the piece and turned the stock down to .205 for .148 inches. Then moved .136 inches from the face and turned down to .171 inches for .093 inches. This fashioned the body of the pump. I used a #5 drill bit to create the “bowl” and a #29 drill bit to make the hole for the plunger.

 

 

Then moved to the mill. I used a 3/64 inch end mill to cut the space between the 2 “ears” and then removed the unwanted material to form all 4 “ears”.

 

 

Putting the chuck on a right angle bracket, I used a #76 drill bit to make the holes through the “ears”. This should be the right size for the .6 mm bolts I plan to use.

 

 

This is the piece after turning and milling.

 

 

I used a 5/32 end mill to create a half circle cut for the spout and used .010 thick brass to fashion the spout. I soldered the spout in place and did some filing to shape it.

 

 

So here are the 2 bilge pumps with the spouts. And while they aren’t perfect, I believe they are a big improvement of the white metal ones that came with the kit.

 

 

 

Now I will attempt to build the plungers and linkage, don’t hold your breath for the next update as this may take me awhile.