ONEVW Posted April 14, 2019 #1 Posted April 14, 2019 hello I keep seeing pictures of this saw in what looks like a saw with much a larger saw top or platform. was this larger top available at one time? Rick
mtaylor Posted April 14, 2019 #2 Posted April 14, 2019 Can you post a picture? Or give us some more info? Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)
Jim Rogers Posted April 14, 2019 #3 Posted April 14, 2019 Probably the Byrnes with the sliding table top. Best on the market. Check sponsors links. Regards, Jim Rogers Damn the Torpedoes , Full speed ahead. Adm David Farragut.
Bob Cleek Posted April 17, 2019 #4 Posted April 17, 2019 I recall somewhere somebody mentioning a Byrnes saw with an extended table. I'm not sure if the extended table was a one-off "Jim Special," he did for somebody, or not. NO extended table is available as an option at present., AFAIK.
jimbyr Posted April 18, 2019 #5 Posted April 18, 2019 Bob The extended table was supposed to be a one off until we got a bunch of people asking for them after the fellow I made it for posted it on the web. Now we run them every time we run standard table tops, usually about a dozen or so. They are not listed on the website but we have a few right now Jim geneinmurphy, mtaylor and Canute 3
Thistle17 Posted April 18, 2019 #6 Posted April 18, 2019 Jim I am interested in one can you post a picture? Joe mtaylor and Canute 2
jimbyr Posted April 19, 2019 #7 Posted April 19, 2019 Joe This is the first one Jim Jorge Hedges, billt, Bill Tuttle and 3 others 6
druxey Posted April 19, 2019 #8 Posted April 19, 2019 Ooh! Nice, Jim. For owners of the standard table, can this top be retrofitted? Canute and mtaylor 2 Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series http://trafalgar.tv
jimbyr Posted April 19, 2019 #9 Posted April 19, 2019 David Yes It can. Probably would have to send the saw back here though. Jim mtaylor, druxey and Canute 3
Thistle17 Posted April 19, 2019 #10 Posted April 19, 2019 Jim without giving away any trade secrets what is involved in modifying the standard table top? I presume it is just the table top. Can one just send in the top? I think this product is an excellent accessory! Joe mtaylor 1
vossiewulf Posted April 20, 2019 #11 Posted April 20, 2019 13 hours ago, jimbyr said: Probably would have to send the saw back here though. Jim, I haven't checked this case, but all of your machines that I own are built in a straightforward fashion with standard fasteners, making them easy to disassemble as needed. Is it really not possible for us to remove the current table and install the larger one? mtaylor, Bob Cleek and Canute 3 Building HM Cutter Lady Nelson 1:64
jimbyr Posted April 22, 2019 #12 Posted April 22, 2019 Joe You would have to send the table top assembly back. Not the whole saw. Jim mtaylor, billt, Landlubber Mike and 2 others 5
geneinmurphy Posted June 25, 2020 #13 Posted June 25, 2020 jimbyr......what is the price for the extended version of your table saw? Thanks! Canute 1
jimbyr Posted June 25, 2020 #14 Posted June 25, 2020 Gene It's 625.00 for the 120v saw 650.00 for the 230v saw 175.00 if you just want the table Jim Canute, mtaylor and geneinmurphy 3
Thistle17 Posted June 25, 2020 #15 Posted June 25, 2020 Thanks Jim. Final questions: Outside of shipping how long is the retrofit time? Are there any alignment querks/needs to remount to align with the arbot? All I send is the table top sans the fence rails but with the rail mount blocks right? Joe mtaylor and Canute 2
Landlubber Mike Posted June 25, 2020 #16 Posted June 25, 2020 For what it's worth, I upgraded my table to the wider table and am incredibly happy with it. If you are using Jim's sliding table to make cross cuts, the wider table top allows you to avoid having to remove the fence - you can just slide it all the way to the end of the table. A nice time saver, and for me at least, reduces the risk of me losing the screws Bob Cleek, druxey, BobG and 2 others 5 Mike Current Wooden builds: Amati/Victory Pegasus MS Charles W. Morgan Euromodel La Renommèe Plastic builds: Hs129B-2 1/48 SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48 Five Star Yaeyama 1/700 Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32 IJN Notoro 1/700 Akitsu Maru 1/700 Completed builds : Caldercraft Brig Badger Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700 Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350 F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72 Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48 Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48 Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48 Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72 Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16 Terminated build: HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn) On the shelf: Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits Future potential scratch builds: HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)
Nirvana Posted June 25, 2020 #17 Posted June 25, 2020 Jim any 110 volt table saws available? Your website says 0.... I like to order. mtaylor and Canute 2 Please, visit our Facebook page! Respectfully Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics Finished: T37, BB Marie Jeanne - located on a shelf in Sweden, 18th Century Longboat, Winchelsea Capstan Current: America by Constructo, Solö Ruff, USS Syren by MS, Bluenose by MS Viking funeral: Harley almost a Harvey Nautical Research Guild Member - 'Taint a hobby if you gotta hurry
jimbyr Posted June 25, 2020 #18 Posted June 25, 2020 Joe 2 days to set it up and send it back. No alignment issues, everything is aligned from here. You just have to bolt it back on. You send the whole table assembly, table, rails, fence, fence extension, arbor mechanism and flanges, no blade Jim Canute and mtaylor 2
jimbyr Posted June 25, 2020 #19 Posted June 25, 2020 Dr. Per No motors yet, expect them next week though Jim mtaylor, Canute and BobG 3
geneinmurphy Posted June 25, 2020 #20 Posted June 25, 2020 Jim....any chance in the future of having a thin strip ripping jig as an option? Thanks! mtaylor and Canute 2
jimbyr Posted June 25, 2020 #21 Posted June 25, 2020 Gene Why would you need that? Jim Canute and mtaylor 2
geneinmurphy Posted June 25, 2020 #22 Posted June 25, 2020 For repetitive thin strips... mtaylor and Canute 2
jimbyr Posted June 25, 2020 #23 Posted June 25, 2020 Gene Do you mean ripping planks? Jim Canute and mtaylor 2
geneinmurphy Posted June 25, 2020 #24 Posted June 25, 2020 Yes. How do you recommend doing it without a jig to get the same width? Thanks... mtaylor and Canute 2
jimbyr Posted June 25, 2020 #25 Posted June 25, 2020 Gene What size planks are you ripping? Jim Canute and mtaylor 2
geneinmurphy Posted June 25, 2020 #26 Posted June 25, 2020 Yes. How do you recommend doing it without a jig to get the same width? Thanks... Probably 1/8”..... mtaylor and Canute 2
jimbyr Posted June 25, 2020 #27 Posted June 25, 2020 Gene Ok, so if you're ripping planks 1/8 x say 1/16 first surface your stock on a thickness sander or buy sheets that are 1/8. With our thickness sander you can easily surface your stock to 1/8 or .125 + or - .001 which should be close enough. Don't surface your stock to 1/16 and rip the planks on the edge. Your going to sand the hull when you're done so always do it this way. Look down the side of the stock and start on the side that is the straightest. If both sides are bowed take a small plane and square up one side the best you can. Now set up the saw with a 3" .03 kerf slitting blade and the mic stop if you have one. Move the fence so it's 1/16 from the blade, eyeball it or use a scale and then set the mic stop to 0 and move it to the fence. Take your stock on the straight side, lay it up against the fence(fence extension removed) and run it through the saw. Measure it with a caliper and adjust the fence with the mic stop. Now start cutting your planks. Keep light pressure on the stock toward the fence with your left hand just south of the blade and push it through with the right. When your stock gets close to the blade use a push stick. I use a piece of scrap stock and push it all the way through till it falls off the back of the saw. You should be able to rip your planks + or - .001 this way Jim geneinmurphy, Canute and mtaylor 3
Jorge Hedges Posted June 25, 2020 #28 Posted June 25, 2020 On 4/19/2019 at 8:24 AM, jimbyr said: Joe This is the first one Jim DAMN, that looks NICE! Where was I when this showed up??? I am the technical type... why do I have to send the table top? I would've assumed that the top, if bolt off/bolt on, that I could do at home. How much is the extended top? Thanks, Jim! Jorge mtaylor and Canute 2
Jorge Hedges Posted June 25, 2020 #29 Posted June 25, 2020 6 minutes ago, jimbyr said: Gene Ok, so if you're ripping planks 1/8 x say 1/16 first surface your stock on a thickness sander or buy sheets that are 1/8. With our thickness sander you can easily surface your stock to 1/8 or .125 + or - .001 which should be close enough. Don't surface your stock to 1/16 and rip the planks on the edge. Your going to sand the hull when you're done so always do it this way. Look down the side of the stock and start on the side that is the straightest. If both sides are bowed take a small plane and square up one side the best you can. Now set up the saw with a 3" .03 kerf slitting blade and the mic stop if you have one. Move the fence so it's 1/16 from the blade, eyeball it or use a scale and then set the mic stop to 0 and move it to the fence. Take your stock on the straight side, lay it up against the fence(fence extension removed) and run it through the saw. Measure it with a caliper and adjust the fence with the mic stop. Now start cutting your planks. Keep light pressure on the stock toward the fence with your left hand just south of the blade and push it through with the right. When your stock gets close to the blade use a push stick. I use a piece of scrap stock and push it all the way through till it falls off the back of the saw. You should be able to rip your planks + or - .001 this way Jim I was jut about to ask if I can saw 1mm or 2mm planks with the saw... any good ripping plank tutorials using your saw out there that you know of? Thanks again! Jorge Canute 1
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