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Hobby saw with larger table top


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13 hours ago, jimbyr said:

Probably would have to send the saw back here though.

 

Jim, I haven't checked this case, but all of your machines that I own are built in a straightforward fashion with standard fasteners, making them easy to disassemble as needed. Is it really not possible for us to remove the current table and install the larger one? 

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  • 1 year later...

Thanks Jim.

Final questions:

Outside of shipping how long is the retrofit time?

Are there any alignment querks/needs to remount to align with the arbot?

All I send is the table top sans the fence rails but with the rail mount blocks right?

Joe

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For what it's worth, I upgraded my table to the wider table and am incredibly happy with it.  If you are using Jim's sliding table to make cross cuts, the wider table top allows you to avoid having to remove the fence - you can just slide it all the way to the end of the table.  A nice time saver, and for me at least, reduces the risk of me losing the screws :)

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Joe

 

2 days to set it up and send it back.  No alignment issues, everything is aligned from here.  You just have to bolt it back on.  You send the whole table assembly,  table, rails, fence, fence extension, arbor mechanism  and flanges, no blade

 

Jim

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Gene

 

Ok,  so if you're ripping planks 1/8 x say 1/16 first surface your stock on a thickness sander or buy sheets that are 1/8.  With our thickness sander you can easily surface your stock to 1/8 or .125 + or - .001 which should be close enough.  Don't surface your stock to 1/16 and rip the planks on the edge.  Your going to sand the hull when you're done so always do it this way.  Look down the side of the stock and start on the side that is the straightest.  If both sides are bowed take a small plane and square up one side the best you can.  Now set up the saw with a 3"  .03 kerf slitting blade and the mic stop if you have one.  Move the fence so it's 1/16 from the blade, eyeball it or use a scale and then set the mic stop to 0 and move it to the fence.  Take your stock on the straight side, lay it up against the fence(fence extension removed) and run it through the saw.  Measure it with a caliper and adjust the fence with the mic stop.  Now start cutting your planks.  Keep light pressure on the stock toward the fence with your left hand just south of the blade and push it through with the right.  When your stock gets close to the blade use a push stick.  I use a piece of scrap stock and push it all the way through till it falls off the back of the saw.  You should be able to rip your planks + or - .001 this way

 

Jim   

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On 4/19/2019 at 8:24 AM, jimbyr said:

Joe

 

This is the first one

 

Jim

PC0459581.jpg

DAMN, that looks NICE!  Where was I when this showed up???

 

I am the technical type...  why do I have to send the table top?  I would've assumed that the top, if bolt off/bolt on, that I could do at home.

 

How much is the extended top?

 

Thanks, Jim!

 

Jorge

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6 minutes ago, jimbyr said:

Gene

 

Ok,  so if you're ripping planks 1/8 x say 1/16 first surface your stock on a thickness sander or buy sheets that are 1/8.  With our thickness sander you can easily surface your stock to 1/8 or .125 + or - .001 which should be close enough.  Don't surface your stock to 1/16 and rip the planks on the edge.  Your going to sand the hull when you're done so always do it this way.  Look down the side of the stock and start on the side that is the straightest.  If both sides are bowed take a small plane and square up one side the best you can.  Now set up the saw with a 3"  .03 kerf slitting blade and the mic stop if you have one.  Move the fence so it's 1/16 from the blade, eyeball it or use a scale and then set the mic stop to 0 and move it to the fence.  Take your stock on the straight side, lay it up against the fence(fence extension removed) and run it through the saw.  Measure it with a caliper and adjust the fence with the mic stop.  Now start cutting your planks.  Keep light pressure on the stock toward the fence with your left hand just south of the blade and push it through with the right.  When your stock gets close to the blade use a push stick.  I use a piece of scrap stock and push it all the way through till it falls off the back of the saw.  You should be able to rip your planks + or - .001 this way

 

Jim   

I was jut about to ask if I can saw 1mm or 2mm planks with the saw...  any good ripping plank tutorials using your saw out there that you know of?

 

Thanks again!

 

Jorge

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