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Hobby saw with larger table top


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Can you post a picture? Or give us some more info?    

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Bob

 

The extended table was supposed to be a one off until we got a bunch of people asking for them after the fellow I made it for posted it on the web.  Now we run them every time we run standard table tops, usually about a dozen or so.  They are not listed on the website but we have a few right now

 

Jim

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13 hours ago, jimbyr said:

Probably would have to send the saw back here though.

 

Jim, I haven't checked this case, but all of your machines that I own are built in a straightforward fashion with standard fasteners, making them easy to disassemble as needed. Is it really not possible for us to remove the current table and install the larger one? 

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  • 1 year later...

For what it's worth, I upgraded my table to the wider table and am incredibly happy with it.  If you are using Jim's sliding table to make cross cuts, the wider table top allows you to avoid having to remove the fence - you can just slide it all the way to the end of the table.  A nice time saver, and for me at least, reduces the risk of me losing the screws :)

Mike

 

Current Wooden builds:  Amati/Victory Pegasus  MS Charles W. Morgan  Euromodel La Renommèe  

 

Plastic builds:    SB2U-1 Vindicator 1/48  Five Star Yaeyama 1/700  Pit Road Asashio and Akashi 1/700 diorama  Walrus 1/48 and Albatross 1/700  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/32  Eduard Sikorsky JRS-1 1/72  IJN Notoro 1/700  Akitsu Maru 1/700

 

Completed builds :  Caldercraft Brig Badger   Amati Hannah - Ship in Bottle  Pit Road Hatsuzakura 1/700   Hasegawa Shimakaze 1:350

F4B-4 and P-6E 1/72  Accurate Miniatures F3F-1/F3F-2 1/48  Tamiya F4F-4 Wildcat built as FM-1 1/48  Special Hobby Buffalo 1/48

Citroen 2CV 1/24 - Airfix and Tamiya  Entex Morgan 3-wheeler 1/16

 

Terminated build:  HMS Lyme (based on Corel Unicorn)  

 

On the shelf:  Euromodel Friedrich Wilhelm zu Pferde; Caldercraft Victory; too many plastic ship, plane and car kits

 

Future potential scratch builds:  HMS Lyme (from NMM plans); Le Gros Ventre (from Ancre monographs), Dutch ship from Ab Hoving book, HMS Sussex from McCardle book, Philadelphia gunboat (Smithsonian plans)

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Jim any 110 volt table saws available? Your website says 0.... I  like to order.

 

Please, visit our Facebook page!

 

Respectfully

 

Per aka Dr. Per@Therapy for Shipaholics 
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Gene

 

Ok,  so if you're ripping planks 1/8 x say 1/16 first surface your stock on a thickness sander or buy sheets that are 1/8.  With our thickness sander you can easily surface your stock to 1/8 or .125 + or - .001 which should be close enough.  Don't surface your stock to 1/16 and rip the planks on the edge.  Your going to sand the hull when you're done so always do it this way.  Look down the side of the stock and start on the side that is the straightest.  If both sides are bowed take a small plane and square up one side the best you can.  Now set up the saw with a 3"  .03 kerf slitting blade and the mic stop if you have one.  Move the fence so it's 1/16 from the blade, eyeball it or use a scale and then set the mic stop to 0 and move it to the fence.  Take your stock on the straight side, lay it up against the fence(fence extension removed) and run it through the saw.  Measure it with a caliper and adjust the fence with the mic stop.  Now start cutting your planks.  Keep light pressure on the stock toward the fence with your left hand just south of the blade and push it through with the right.  When your stock gets close to the blade use a push stick.  I use a piece of scrap stock and push it all the way through till it falls off the back of the saw.  You should be able to rip your planks + or - .001 this way

 

Jim   

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On 4/19/2019 at 8:24 AM, jimbyr said:

Joe

 

This is the first one

 

Jim

PC0459581.jpg

DAMN, that looks NICE!  Where was I when this showed up???

 

I am the technical type...  why do I have to send the table top?  I would've assumed that the top, if bolt off/bolt on, that I could do at home.

 

How much is the extended top?

 

Thanks, Jim!

 

Jorge

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6 minutes ago, jimbyr said:

Gene

 

Ok,  so if you're ripping planks 1/8 x say 1/16 first surface your stock on a thickness sander or buy sheets that are 1/8.  With our thickness sander you can easily surface your stock to 1/8 or .125 + or - .001 which should be close enough.  Don't surface your stock to 1/16 and rip the planks on the edge.  Your going to sand the hull when you're done so always do it this way.  Look down the side of the stock and start on the side that is the straightest.  If both sides are bowed take a small plane and square up one side the best you can.  Now set up the saw with a 3"  .03 kerf slitting blade and the mic stop if you have one.  Move the fence so it's 1/16 from the blade, eyeball it or use a scale and then set the mic stop to 0 and move it to the fence.  Take your stock on the straight side, lay it up against the fence(fence extension removed) and run it through the saw.  Measure it with a caliper and adjust the fence with the mic stop.  Now start cutting your planks.  Keep light pressure on the stock toward the fence with your left hand just south of the blade and push it through with the right.  When your stock gets close to the blade use a push stick.  I use a piece of scrap stock and push it all the way through till it falls off the back of the saw.  You should be able to rip your planks + or - .001 this way

 

Jim   

I was jut about to ask if I can saw 1mm or 2mm planks with the saw...  any good ripping plank tutorials using your saw out there that you know of?

 

Thanks again!

 

Jorge

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