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US Brig Syren 1803 by Overworked724 – Model Shipways – Scale 1:64


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Dang, that really looks clean.  I’m sticking with the castings this go around, but that’s a really good idea to try next time.

“The sea, once it casts its spell, holds one in its net of wonder forever.”
― Jacques Yves Cousteau

 

Work in Progress: US Brig Syren

Completed Works: Thermopylae

 

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Patrick Simply amazing the ingenuity of your solution. Truly a moment of glory they look wonderful. I now need to start learning how to use sculpy. A friend suggested I try it but I've never had the nerve to use the wires oven.

 

Again WELL DONE 👏

 

Stay well and stay safe

Will  :pirate41:

Current Build:

Erycina 1882 Fishing Trawler by Vanguard Models 1:64 scale

Syren by pearwill Model Shipways 1:64 scale

On Hold:

HM Cutter Cheerful  Syren Shipmodel Scratch 1:48 scale

1776 Washington Row Galley scratch scratch from NRG plans #121  1:48 scale

Completed Build:

Charles W. Morgan by Artesania Latina circa 1988, Lowell Grand Banks Dory 1:24 scale by Model Shipways, Norwegian.Sailing Pram 1:12 scale by Model Shipways, Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack 1:24 scale by Model Shipways

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

 

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Patrick I'm wondering how hard Sculpey gets when baked. Does it carve well or should you carve prior to baking? Thinking of using it to carve the stern ornamental carving but would Sculpey be too fragile. Thoughts? Wife said I could use oven but don't make it a mess.

 

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year

Stay well and stay safe

Will :pirate41:

Current Build:

Erycina 1882 Fishing Trawler by Vanguard Models 1:64 scale

Syren by pearwill Model Shipways 1:64 scale

On Hold:

HM Cutter Cheerful  Syren Shipmodel Scratch 1:48 scale

1776 Washington Row Galley scratch scratch from NRG plans #121  1:48 scale

Completed Build:

Charles W. Morgan by Artesania Latina circa 1988, Lowell Grand Banks Dory 1:24 scale by Model Shipways, Norwegian.Sailing Pram 1:12 scale by Model Shipways, Muscongus Bay Lobster Smack 1:24 scale by Model Shipways

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

 

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2 hours ago, niwotwill said:

...I'm wondering how hard Sculpey gets when baked. Does it carve well or should you carve prior to baking? Thinking of using it to carve the stern ornamental carving but would Sculpey be too fragile. Thoughts? Wife said I could use oven but don't make it a mess.


Hi Will!  Here are some answers based on my experience. 
 

- Sculpy in the oven will not make a mess. It’s basically clay...so it just sits there and hardens. 
- Sculpy is a pretty hard and claylike material which holds its shape pretty well before baking...but it’s a clay, so it’s soft and open to distortion before baking. 
- After baking, it reminds me of hard rubber. It’s malleable/bendable but snaps back to its original shape

- After baking, the stuff cuts exactly like hard rubber. Easy to trim up and clean with an exacto. Holds the paint well. 
 

I’m not certain it’s the best stuff for relief carvings, but Chuck used it to good effect in this same regard on the Sultana Practicum. He made the figurehead from it. 
 

If I were you, I’d get some and experiment with it. It’s really neat stuff and really opens up options for novice modelers. 

Edited by Overworked724

----------------------------------------------------

“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Christmas progress!!  I got my cap rails painted.  I am getting a general feel for airbrushing. Useful skill...spent one entire day disassembling and reassembling the damned thing trying to figure out why air wasn’t going through it when I realized the valve at the air inlet of the brush was turned ‘off’...:default_wallbash:

 

Anyhow...my hood works great. The admiral made some draught snakes to jam in the window seams and it functions perfectly. Using that and an N95 mask just to be safe. 
 

On the taping up the ship for the next part...pics to follow a bit later. 
 

Happy Holidays everyone!!!

Edited by Overworked724

----------------------------------------------------

“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Took another detour before jumping on painting the ship wales and trim. Realized the guns need painted, too. So why not do that at same time when I realized I had not addressed how to mount the 3D printed carronades to the sleds. 

 

Decided to go simple and mimic the Brittania pieces by putting in a mounting bracket on the underside. 
 

EA926184-981B-4970-8E05-1405D2F25300.jpeg.d1e14f78a77a64446a7a40ba60eae268.jpeg

 

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So cut 1.5mm cross sections off a 1/8” dowel, then simply chopped those in half with an exacto blade. (Wasn’t going for precision, just accuracy as these won’t be seen)

 

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Used medium gel CA to lock these on the carronades. Then drilled a guide hole in each bracket which I can enlarge later after painting. 
 

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Moving on....

 

:pirate41:

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Got the carronades painted. I did a trial using 2:1 Tamiya thinner to flat black paint as I was getting some spitting at a lower ratio. Worked just fine. 
 

I tried with and without a primer using a scrap piece of the 3D material (scraps from when I removed the carronades from their original 3D sleds) but did not see any difference. So went ahead and painted them without primer and am pretty happy with the results. Still have to paint the inside of the barrels but will wait till tomorrow and use a simple detail brush. 
 

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Moving on...to taping up the hull... 

 

Edited by Overworked724

----------------------------------------------------

“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Really impressive work with carronade wheels!   As well, great sourcing of the 3d printed carronades themselves...   I suspect 3d printing is going to take up more and more space in our lives going into the future.   

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Finally got the black trim painting done. A couple areas to touch up but generally a passable job. A few minor blemishes which I can live with...pics a bit later.  I’m not totally unhappy about the result, as I know this is one area which requires patience and skill...both of which I have in short supply at the moment. 😣  

 

Off to find a brew and a movie. 👍🏽
 

Hopefully getting to starting the the deck tomorrow...

Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Made some progress today.  Took a side trip to finish up the wheel assemblies for the sleds.  Made a little jig to ensure the height of the wheels assemblies were all uniform.  The jig helped me hold the tiny wheel bracket in place while I set the wheels into the brackets without moving.  Pic below...pretty self explanatory, but it made working with the little bits MUCH easier and only took me about an hour to complete all 16.  I chose golden oak stain rather than black paint...I might change my mind later once I see how it all looks, but I figured that I spent so much time noodling over these things...why paint them?!

 

So...here are the wheel assembly pics.

 

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I used another block of wood and a clothes pins to hold the bracket stationary.

 

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Taa daa....Moving on...

 

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Here are the pics of the paint job such as it stands.  My cap rails are already made and painted but I decided to mount them after the deck is completed and trunneled.  

 

I'm kind of split on whether painting the transom cap and shear strakes on the ship was worth it...I think painting them off the ship has some advantages but also disadvantages.  In the end, it's how good you tape up your ship and how good you are at painting.  I am not good...and although airbrushing makes things a bit easier in one way - it is also quite difficult in others.  Again - just a skill you need to develop on your own - and this was a good learning experience which allow me to ask some good questions to develop a much better understanding of airbursh mechanics...but I still suck at it.

 

Ok...baby pics.  My painting is over for now...like I said, passable, but not perfect.  

 

8C6A5A51-63B6-4B86-B450-84320500781E-23660-00000BBF43A18E59.JPG.e2eb9587fe370e5d7d823c0efb7ffdd9.JPG

 

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Took the opportunity to add the name plate and transom trim piece.  

 

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Moving on to the deck...:pirate41:

 

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Took the plunge...glued in the bow margins. They look ok, but I’m concerned about how hard they are to cut. I made them in 3 sections from castello boxwood, but the joggling will be a challenge.  The wood is hard and does tend to fragment, so I will do my best to go slow and use extremely sharp blades. 
 

On a side note...I decided to use my super secret stash of recently acquired aged English boxwood for the deck. So I spent some time today cutting my deck planks. Although these haven’t been laid down...I can’t help but post a pic. They have this beautiful butterscotch hue which is really awesome.
 

1499753E-0CF2-417C-9286-972D1361E1C1.jpeg.4ef07afbd88b46716ce2902a9a9f14be.jpeg

 

There is some figuring, but I honestly don’t care...this stuff has been hanging around in a basement for years...I simply had to give the wood a home!  😎

 

Moving on...

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Plodding along. Decided to stop overthinking and used some vinyl striping tape to nail down the center line. The thickness of the tape makes a good backboard which you can use to set in the initial center plank.
 

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You can see below that I gave myself a bit of a gap (~ 1/64”) above the faux deck at the transom. Makes for a clean seam when setting down the planks at the stern. 

 

EB69A86A-7F6A-40BC-937C-E48DF15F0538.jpeg.93f81b5f0f940f5eb338afb63157f80e.jpeg

 

Made sure I carved out my two mounting holes (which will at some point be hid by gratings) and the two mast holes. Better to do it now rather than later. 👍🏽
 

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Moving on....slowly!!

Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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The one thing that bothers me is the margin plank and the planks themselves are considerably different in tone.  The castello boxwood the margins are made of is slightly beige where the planks are cut from English boxwood which is more yellow.  I hope the color difference doesn't stand out too much...regardless...will continue to press on...

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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Maybe it won't be so dramatic when you've got more of it complete?    What will you use for the waterways?   That would be an opportunity for a third color - worth considering.

Edited by Justin P.
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5 hours ago, Justin P. said:

Maybe it won't be so dramatic when you've got more of it complete?    What will you use for the waterways?   That would be an opportunity for a third color - worth considering.


Not a bad idea but my options are limited.  Pear wood be too stark a contrast and I refuse to use basswood. So at the moment I am planning to use the same wood as the margins but will go ahead and cut some strips from English boxwood to compare. 

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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14 minutes ago, CPDDET said:

Could cherry or mahogany work? Both are easy to work with and readily available.


I do have some cherry...but thought that color contrast would be no different than using the Swiss Pear.  Maybe it’s worth cutting strips for the pear and cherry to compare to the two types of boxwood. 👍🏽

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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I would not worry about the color difference. Keep in mind the deck will be pretty cramped with all kinds of other details such as carronades etc. The little color difference will play no role at all.

 

Thomas

Current Built:   Model Shipways  Syren  (US Brig 1803)

 

Last Built:        Anfora (kit bashed)  Ictineo II  (1st steam powered submarine 1864)

 

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Took a break from work to put in the remaining sections of the margin plank. Was all excited...until I measured the remaining planking widths at the various frames...and of course, the starboard side measures slightly narrower (about 1mm) across the main section of the ship. I’ve been measuring constantly, and it’s fine at the extremes (stern and bow frames), so not entirely certain where the discrepancy lies. Probably when gluing the margin in there was some ‘minor give’ (straightness) in the plank which I removed by pressing into the bulkhead curvature. 
 

Live and learn!!!  
 

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:pirate41:

Edited by Overworked724

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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The whole process of nibbing and joggling the planks really makes me nervous. 😣 Hipexec was one build which avoided this part and his build was stellar. Just rethinking it...the whole idea of those itty bitty corners fragmenting as I try to cut in the sections makes me cringe. 

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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23 minutes ago, Overworked724 said:

The whole process of nibbing and joggling the planks really makes me nervous.

Me too.   I went slow and burned through a few really sharp scalpels.   Of course you are using boxwood so your experience will likely be different then mine (basswood), but what I found worked was to make the basic shape in the dummy plank and then trace it on the margin plank.  Then I carefully cut out the shape in the margin just under the tracing mark so the actually cut shape was smaller than the tracing.   I then shaped the actual plank to fit and had pretty good success (it was my first time doing this).   By cutting smaller I could sort of force the plank into position and would get a nice tight fit.  

 

Good Luck!   

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Well, for good or ill I’m in it for the experience. Good Lord knows I’ve been practicing and have thought up a couple useful ideas to hopefully eek out a good result. 🙏🏻

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“Work like a Captain....Play like a Pirate!” — Every Ship Modeler...everywhere.

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