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Jeffrey

Yankee Hero by Jeffrey - BlueJacket Shipcrafters

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I was disappointed to see that the kit’s hull is already under-sized at the stern before even getting started in removing any wood.  Is this common?  Can I easily correct this and still get a decent looking finished model? 

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The hull is the same size, and the deck is larger than what is on the plans.  This should be an easy fix.  Feedback?

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Have the hull nearly completed.  Minor sanding remaining, then the keel pieces.  After the deck is installed, I will use white spray primer to check and correct any irregularities on the hull. 

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Hi, Jeff

This Kit was my first, as well. It was very frustrating to me to try to get the blank to match the hull profiles of the plans ... so much so that more than once the kit wound up in the trash can ( subsequently retrieved). But, with much filler, filing, sanding, more filler, more filing, more sanding, I finally got to what was pretty close to the drawings, and acceptable to me.  I found that hull blanks vary greatly from what you would expect to get based on the drawings (true for several manufacturers), and frequently are not symmetrical side to side or end to end (I even had one where the deck centerline was about 10 degrees off from the keel centerline!). Ultimately I found that building up my own solid hull using layers of Wood cut out based on the kit drawings and sandwiched together with glue gave me a much closer starting point than the kit blank. Since then, I’ve built half a dozen solid hull models, which turned out pretty good. 

 

Here is what I concluded:  Nobody is going to see my model in a museum so it just has to be good enough for me. Symmetry from portside to starboard side is desirable but generally not critical because one almost never sees both sides at one time. And, there is no sin in using a lot of filler, if the hull is to be painted. 

 

Yours looks pretty good. I’d prime the hull before adding the deck, as you may find the priming will highlight a lot of imperfections not noticeable at this stage. I typically have to prime/fill/sand several times before I’m satisfied. 

 

Its unfortunate that these hull blanks are frequently so far off ... I’ll bet that has caused many modelers to trash the whole thing and thus be deprived of the rest of the fun and satisfaction of completing the model. There must be something in the kit manufacturing process that makes good hull blanks too expensive to produce ( hence, the proliferation of plank on bulkhead models). 

 

Keep at it .. you’ve a good start. Will be following. 

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Thanks for the feedback.  It was my intent to prime/fill/sand, but as you suggested I will do this before adding the deck.  I will also cut down the deck to fit the hull, because the hull size matches the plans, and the deck is oversized.  My exact sentiments, good is good enough, and only I will notice.  I need to get past the hull challenge, because I am really looking forward to the topside building and rigging.

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Keel is installed and hull has primer to help get a good final finish sanding.  Next will be the cabin followed by fitting the deck and trimming down to size.

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Deck glued onto hull.  Deck did not line up forward into bow post.  Fix this with a bit of wood filler.  Similar with the stern post.  Here I will add a thickness of wood using scrap.  Toe boards will not line up exactly onto the posts, but good enough for a first timer. 

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Actually, just had a thought.  I could add thickness to the bow post to fill in the deck notch.  This might work, then the toe boards would match up on this end anyway.

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Posted (edited)

Deck is installed and awaiting a little wood putty and finish sanding.  Bow and stern posts still need trimming.  Onward to building the cabin, followed by deck staining before cabin installation.  Will take some time for working stiffs like me.  Enjoying this very much.  Later!

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Edited by Jeffrey

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Posted (edited)

Cabin is mostly built and temporarily installed so that I can eventually oil the deck and paint the cabin without any hassle.  Now onto minor wood filling and primer, and the next step.  Doing things a bit out of order from the instructions.  Using concepts from plastic model building to reduce painting hassles.

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Edited by Jeffrey

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Completed the cabin.  Moving to water lining the hull and shaping/installing rudder.  I gave up on the enamel paint.  I use solely acrylics for my models, which are far more forgiving, work faster, and less of a hassle.  The mahogany wood was clear coated using a water base semi-gloss by Minwax, the same clear coat that I will use on the deck after staining with a Minwax stain. For painting the hull, I will airbrush Tamiya hull red and deep green.  When using acrylics, I always seal the paint with a clear lacquer spray finish.  For this project I will use a clear matte finish.  

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Edited by Jeffrey

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Deck is stained and the completed cabin is temporarily fitted in place to see how everything looks.  On to the bowsprit, toe rails, and cabin molding.  Looking pretty good I think for a first timer wooden boat modeler.  Many skills and lessons learned gathered in other modeling hobbies definitely transfer to this hobby.

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