Discussions about chapter one - Bulkhead material-skeleton framework for Winchelsea

[Chuck]

THE BASEBOARD....I have mentioned this a few times....but hopefully folks will read this here.    My baseboard for the model is 12" wide by 36" long.  It is 1/2" thick.  MDF or other really flat boards are perfect for this.

[Chuck]

Plywood Bulkhead sets are now in stock.....remember that shipping is going to be expensive.

 

Chuck

[blackjack40]

Hey Chuck, I noticed you did not put filler blocks between your frames as you did on the Syren and other have done. Any particular reason why not?

 

 

Now that you are well past this point, do you think that’s something you would do differently or recommend other do to further stabilize/square off the bulk heads? 

 

-Joe

 

 

[Chuck]

There are so many bulkheads it isnt really needed.  In addition, once you have the ports framed, its very very sturdy.   A few more bulkheads and the hull will look as if it was POF.   Those are only needed on those cheap kits where the bulkheads are 4" apart or more.   These are less than an inch apart on the Winnie.

[Chuck]

Plywood bulkhead sets are all sold out!!!!   I should have more more by Friday.    Thank you guys.  I will let you know when I get them in stock.

 

Chuck

[scrubbyj427]

I didn’t even see them in stock again!!! I Check every day. I need some kind of alert system!

[Chuck]

They all sold out in about 45 minutes.   Sorry.  And most went to folks who have NOT started a build log which I am kind of salty about.   I should have four more sets tomorrow or Friday.  But Bluejacket ran out of ply and is ordering more.   So the next batch might be a couple of weeks.   The first 10 sets are all in the mail.

 

Once again....probably quicker to cut your own at this rate.

 

Chuck

[Matt D]

I learned a nice little printer hack for the bulkheads yesterday.  I was desperate the get the bulkhead formers printed and my printer only does 8-1/2", so it won't make the 11x17 prints for the mid and aft pages (1 and 2).  I was playing with settings in the print set-up and found that those two pieces would fit on 8-1/2x14 legal size sheets with the size set to 100%.  I don't keep legal size paper around because it's generally useless to me.  But I dug around and found a 20 year old mortgage package in my filing cabinet.  It's a half inch thick packet of legal size pages printed single sided with one staple that was easy to remove.  I sold that house nine years ago so I don't think I really need that mortgage package anymore - at least not the last two pages of boilerplate.  Into the printer and onto my plywood!

[DocBlake]

Great idea, but don’t sweat the 11” X 17” copies.  Take a thumb drive to FedEx Office and they’ll print the 11” X 17” pages for about $0.35 a page.

[Edwardkenway]

Hi Chuck,  would 6mm md be suitable for the bulkheads and former?

I only ask as the ply I have is 5.5mm and I recall you saying that may cause problems further into the build. Thanks in advance. 

[Chuck]

Yes that would be fine.  

[mnewsholme]

Started looking at printing bulkhead drawings out and not sure if I have a problem. Printing them as actual size with no scaling. length on scale block on bulkhead 1 looks spot on. Ruler slightly offset to left in this photo but each block is 1/4".

 

However when I measure the vertical dimension it looks to be slightly short, approx. 1/32" undersize. I understood the scale blocks to be 1/4" squares?. Is this correct?. weird thing is they look to be shorter in vertical dimension when I look at the PDF's on the monitor too.

I cant see any options in printer settings to only scale in one dimension and I've printed on two different printers with same result.

 

 

[Chuck]

You are good to go......the measurements are only left to right on a scale bar.  The height means nothing.   

 

You are just fine.  Start making some sawdust. 

[mnewsholme]

Thanks Chuck

 

Couldn't think what other settings I could adjust. Good to know I was over thinking it.

[Chuck]

Just another quick note to make sure everyone checks and corrects the angle of their stern frames.   If you pushed back those outside stern frames when you framed the q galleries, you will run into problems later on.

 

 

In addition, be sure to fair the width of those outside stern frames properly to match the width shown on your plans.  This will also have an impact on how easily you can frame your quarter galleries in chapter 3.  Your transom filling piece wont fit correctly.   Do a lot of checking against the plans.  You will be so happy you did.  Many might not realize how the smallest details will have an enormous impact later in the project.   When you build a complex subject like the Winnie you must think several moves ahead like when you play chess.   This is often hard to visualize but I will do my best to point these areas out as I recognize that some folks may be overlooking them.  All of these details were mentioned in the instructions so please read each step several times and even highlight certain areas like these so you wont forget check them against the plans.

 

[Stuntflyer]

Taken from Winchelseasheet2.pdf, here is the angle that you should shoot for. The model should to be on the build board and in a vertical position when setting the frames. I used some card stock cut to the angle shown below. View the frames straight on from the side, making sure that the aft edges of all the frames are at this angle and also parallel to one another before the glue sets.

Mike