HMS Victory by Daliab - FINISHED - Mantua/Panart

[GrandpaPhil]

I painted mine antique gold by Delta Ceramcoat.

 

You could always use the same yellow as you used for the stern/quarter gallery pieces.

[Daliab]

GrandpPhil..... the stern pieces came already painted a different ochre that neither one of mine matched.  Think what I will do is use the below yellow ochre and add some of the darker ochre and take some of the bright yellow out of the paint.  Just need to mix enough to do the entire ship.  I'll just paint over the factory pieces colored their ochre color for what I end up with.  Think I'll try for the below picture.

Edited January 3, 2020 by Daliab

[GrandpaPhil]

Okay, my apologies.  I didn’t catch the part about the stern and quarter galleries being prepainted.

 

I had to paint mine and I thought yours were the same.

 

 

[Daliab]

Thanks for everyone's input. Ended up using the Admiralty Paint's Yellow Ochre (AP9115W) middle one on the sample. It was the color that was recommended in a larger HMS Victory paint set. The Vallejo's yellow ochre was to yellow for my liking and real thick paint.

Edited January 9, 2020 by Daliab

[Daliab]

The Vic has been in dry dock for a couple of weeks while I've been away on vacation in Malta and Lisbon.  Now back to Nebraska in time for all of the wind and snow which equals to spending time in the building of the Vic.  As stated in previous logs, I was having a paint dilemma with which paint to use.  In the end, I decided to use the Admiralty Paint's Yellow Ochre which was more orange than Vallejo's but was more to the present paint of the original Vic.  Although the paint went on pretty easy on the main ship, it open up another can of worms.  As you can see the stern pieces were already pre-colored which did not match either of my choices of yellow ochre.  Using a very small brush and a very large magnifying glass, I've had to spend a lot of time painting over the factory yellow.  Time consuming but hey.... It's snowing outside. 

 

 

 

Edited January 27, 2020 by Daliab

[Daliab]

A couple of things that I hoped to get sharing my build log and reviewing other folks build logs was to see how they built their ships, retain some of the good ideas, learn from others mistakes, and to share with you my mistakes.  The very first mistake I did was in my initial log entry by placing the wrong bulkhead in the wrong slot.  BUT, I was able to recover from that. The second and third mistakes were by cutting out the ports for the cannons. As you can see from the first photo using a dremel tool to make holes to get get an xacto blade in to remove the material, I ended up drilling to far into the model and damaged the below deck. Lucky for me a cannon will be covering my mistake. The third mistake was done when removing the material from some of the gun ports. I ended up blowing out small sections of the first layer of planking from inside the ship.  Lesson learned was drill more holes and always use a sharp xacto blade.

 

Edited January 27, 2020 by Daliab

[David56]

When I cut out my gun ports I went through several blades. Found out the sharper the blade the easier it was to cut the gun ports.  Hopefully some sanding can hide your mistake

[Daliab]

David56... thanks for your input.

Lucky for me it only happen on 2 ports on the inside of the second deck and not really visible unless you really look for it. Think most of the damage will be hidden by the cannons and ropes. Can't reach inside to repair and sand the blowouts as it is to far back to reach. Will chalk it up to another lesson learned for future builds. Use more glue and sharper blades!

Edited January 28, 2020 by Daliab

[mispeltyoof]

I have just reached the nightmare of trying to plank the stern!!! I see some member has added a quote of "if all else fails read the instructions" He has clearly never built a Panart kit!!!!!!!! The so called instructions are a joke. Still looking at what you are doing has helped me enormously as I had started the stern and then ripped them off again as they looked ridiculous.

[Daliab]

Mispeltyoof...... I had the same problem and received a lot of help from David56 who is building the Vic also.  He added a picture that helped me get started.  Below is the picture of my stern.  I have just started coppering the hull.  Hope the picture helps you out with your issue.

 

I went into your build page and saw how you were bending your planks between two blocks of wood.  Word to the wise, I soaked BOTH ENDS of the planks for about 10-15 minutes.  This helped me a bunch especially in the stern area because the bend of each plank is so aggressive after the last bulkhead. Because you soaked the plank, it bends and twists without splitting or breaking when making that aggressive bend after the last bulkhead.

 

INADDITION: look at this site.  If your primary language is English, this site has instructions for Manua/Panart kits that are only in English.  Helped me so I don't have to wade through all of the language instructions.

 

https://www.mantuamodel.co.uk/downloads/2-uncategorised/37-english-translations

 

Edited January 30, 2020 by Daliab

[Daliab]

Day 2 of copper planking started.  This is going to take some time.  I think I'm getting more CA on my fingers than on the hull/tiles as I keep peeling dried CA off my fingers.  Even with tweezers to place the tiles, most of the time you need to hold down the tile for the CA to cure enough to hold the tile in place.

Edited January 31, 2020 by Daliab

[mispeltyoof]

Thanks for the English translation.Will be very helpful. I also am finding the videos on YouTube of the Model Space Victory.They generously post 26 videos of how to build their kit. Different to the Panart but most of the instructions are relevant. Watch for those cursed fumes from the CA glue that way madness lies!😂

[David56]

i have found that curved tweezers work better then straight ones. planking looks good

[Daliab]

Thanks for the tips David56.  After using a number of different tools for placing the copper tiles, I have to agree with you.... my tool of choice has been curved tweezers.

[Daliab]

Tiles, tiles, everywhere.  Total of nine hours of laying copper tiles today.  Doesn't look like much progress has been made from the picture since this is the only side I've been working on today.

[Daliab]

Four more days of tiling complete.  Tomorrow I should have the port side completed and will continue on the starboard side.  Still looking at 4-5 more days of tiling to go, then I think it will take about a week to remove the dried on CA on my fingers.

 

Edited February 8, 2020 by Daliab

[Duanelaker]

Out of curiosity would rubber gloves help with the CA or would it make thing more difficult?  I have the same issue when using CA and I’m hoping to find a work around.  But I notice no one seems to use them, also and more important your victory is beautiful by the way!

[Daliab]

Duanelaker.... Thank you for your encouraging words.  They help keep me motivated to keep moving forward on the build.  I read somewhere not to use latex gloves but haven't seen anything about rubber ones.  My problem is the copper tiles are so small that it difficult grasping those little devils and placing them in the correct position.  I would think rubber gloves (unless really thin) would make it difficult to pickup and place the tiles. David56 recommended using curved tweezers (which I have found to work better then straight ones) and a pointed nail like device in an xacto holder.  Don't know what they call it but it came with my Xacto set.  I have found this to best control the pickup, placement, hold down until set, so far.  Having a small piece of cloth near by to wipe some of the CA that oozes out from under the tile also eliminates much of the CA build up on my fingers and on the tiles themselves.

On a separate note, I have looked at your builds.  Very good.  The one that caught my eye was the Bounty Jolly Boat.  May have to keep my eye out for it and put it in my line up of things to build.  Although I have lots to do in the Victory, one is always looking at things to build next.  I have some plans for a Mayflower II, and keep getting drawn back to the Le Soleil Royal 1669 by Sergal BUT.... It is very expensive, really don't need another 50+ inch ship in the house (wife would shoot me) but looks very impressive when finished.  Hope you continue to follow the build.

Edited February 8, 2020 by Daliab

[Daliab]

Whahoo! Port side copper plating complete.  Now to finish the starboard side.

Tip: Testors has a copper paint that touches up some of the small , not so tight fit between tiles that may show some of the wood between the tiles.  Although 99.9 % of all of the tiles fit nicely together, there were some areas (bow, stern, and keel) that had some small showing of wood between the tiles.  Using a small brush with the copper paint filled those imperfections nicely.  You really have to look to find those areas.  The other thing I had to be careful about were the tiles themselves.  You had to be careful that you were gluing a single tile to the model.  They frequently stuck together one on top of the other and constantly had to be sure you only had a single tile.  The other thing that made it difficult were the tiles themselves.  They were of different thicknesses.  Most were standard but some were much thinner but really didn't show on the model.

[Old Collingwood]

6 hours ago, Daliab said:

Whahoo! Port side copper plating complete.  Now to finish the starboard side.

Tip: Testors has a copper paint that touches up some of the small , not so tight fit between tiles that may show some of the wood between the tiles.  Although 99.9 % of all of the tiles fit nicely together, there were some areas (bow, stern, and keel) that had some small showing of wood between the tiles.  Using a small brush with the copper paint filled those imperfections nicely.  You really have to look to find those areas.  The other thing I had to be careful about were the tiles themselves.  You had to be careful that you were gluing a single tile to the model.  They frequently stuck together one on top of the other and constantly had to be sure you only had a single tile.  The other thing that made it difficult were the tiles themselves.  They were of different thicknesses.  Most were standard but some were much thinner but really didn't show on the model.

That bottom has come up a treat  real tidy tiles.

 

OC.

[Daliab]

It has taken almost 2 weeks to complete but.... I"m happy to report that I have finished adding copper tiles to the haul of the Victory.  I still have to do the rudder but my fingers can use the break since I'm not at that part of the build yet.

 

 

[GrandpaPhil]

Nicely done on the coppering.  Your Victory is looking good.

Sorry about your fingers.

[Daliab]

CAUTION: You can't judge a book from its cover.  The same goes for selecting a model from the pictures on the box. The below pictures show what Manuta/Panart's HMS Victory #738 model should look and fit when finished.... NOT.

Really not happy the way the stern ended up looking and fitting.  The side cabins did not fit very well to the port/starboard sides of the model.... at least not to my liking.  From other builds the side cabins are a hit and a miss depending on the manufacturer.  I've seen a number of builds that people had to use small pieces of wood or putty to ramp up to the cabins from the sides to make a smooth transisition.  I used putty.  Without the putty, it would have looked worst. The side panels wouldn't have glued up to the sides and would have left a large gap showing.  Just wouldn't have looked finished.  Granted I haven't put on the 3D scroll work, figures, and trim that would help dress it up.  Will see how it turns out as I move forward.

 

[Daliab]

GrandpaPhil... looking at your build, I see the side cabin panels look like they fit nicely against the sides of your model.  When you laid the second layer of planking, did you void that area of planks and ran the planks up to the thin plywood base?  From the instructions, it showed the planking going all of the way under the cabin panels.  I'm thinking I should have placed the plywood base on the supports first and ran the second planks up to the base..... not under.  What say you?

[GrandpaPhil]

I did a lot of sanding and filling to make everything look nice, then I made the illusion that everything fitted correctly by painting carefully and painting up to the brass pieces.

[Daliab]

GrandpaPhil... thanks for the quick response. Big difference between your Vic and mine in the cabin structure layouts....  then realized yours is the same company but 1:98 scale and mine is 1:78 scale.  The company made different structural changes from the 1:98 scale and 1:78 scale but we had the same outcome.  From your build, the starboard side looked like it snugged up to the side nicely.  The plywood piece on yours is also designed differently than mine.  It is what it is.  To late to change it now.  It would destroy the model as it stands now by tearing the whole back cabins off and re-doing it.  Besides if I did, it would destroy the laser cut cabins and I would have to scratch build the whole back end.  This is only the second model that I've made and "scratch build" isn't in my vocabulary yet.  When I come to that, I'll start off with something a little simpler.

This is more like I was expecting.  Again, thanks for your response.

 

Edited February 13, 2020 by Daliab

[GrandpaPhil]

Your Victory is turning out really nicely.  I’m looking forward to seeing how she shapes up.  
 

I have made many mistakes on my Victory and she has many many flaws.  The trick for me is to learn from my mistakes, for the next build, but to always move on and keep progressing.  The most important thing is to have fun and finish the model.

[Daliab]

Really happy the way the starboard brass gun port frames look.  The extra time I spent making sure that the brass frames fit tight in the openings I cut with a #11 X-acto  paid dividends.  I wanted them flush to the sides.  They popped right in without any issues.

 

[Daliab]

Attempted to dress up the stern of the Victory.  As is, the back end did not have any depth to it and really looked flat.   Still have to add the lamps, the flag emblem, the name plate etc but to me it looks a little better than it was.  Don't know when the company changed the kit from etched brass to laser engraved ply.  I will make sure that I will investigate to make sure the kit has what the advertised picture shows .

[Jeff-E]

Hi, 

The stern cabins look really good.