Recommendation - First scratch build

[Bill Hill]

Over the years I’ve modeled several ships from kits.  Honoring my skills along the way and still learning. I’m wanting to step into scratch building and am looking for a recommendation on the first project.   One of the projects on the NRG site?  Something from Syren?  Other options?

 

Bill

[Jim Hastings]

My first scratch model was based on the two volume "Plank on Frame Models" by Harold Underhill.  There may be a better way to begin, but if there is, I'm not aware of it.

 

Jim Hastings

Rapid City, SD  USA

[Edwardkenway]

Hi, have you thought about Chuck's Winchelsea? It is a plank on bulkhead build but you can either scratch build all of it or get some of the laser cut parts if you want.

Just my thoughts. 

Cheers 

[MEDDO]

And don't forget the Cheerful from Syren.  Like the Winchelsea you can scratch or get some of the parts as mini-kits.  

 

You can also start off with a cross section if interested in fully framing.  There are many build logs of various sections here including one recently completed by DocBlake using the Anatomy of the Ship Book on HMS Blandford.

[Bill Hill]

Thanks Jim , I’ll check out the book.  Sounds like a good ref book regardless.

The Cheerful interests me, maybe not as complex as the Winchelsea?

 

Bill

 

[mtaylor]

Also, go have a look at the Triton Cross Section (top of this page in Group Projects tab). 

[barkeater]

If you are going to spend the time doing a scratch build might I  recommend perusing the National Maritime Museums ships plans on their web site. They have lots of original plans on a variety of vessels which you can purchase. Even if you don't find something that catches your eye, it's just fun to look.

[GrandpaPhil]

Welcome!  
 

Schooners make great first scratch builds.  Mine was the Prince de Neufchatel (Baltimore Clipper) made from Chapelle plans.

 

Model Shipways sells their plan sets reasonably, too.

Edited February 22, 2020 by GrandpaPhil

[Bob Cleek]

If you feel you are sufficiently knowledgeable to build a full-sized vessel from lines drawings, you've pretty much got it licked. You can just pick any of the thousands of ships whose lines and rigging details are are available in print, on line, or from museums and archives and start building. That would presume you had a full command of the nomenclature and an ability to loft patterns from lines and/or tables of offsets and were familiar with construction practices and rigging appropriate to the period of the vessel you want to model. That level of knowledge requires a learning curve that goes far beyond building kits. If you don't have that level of experience, then Underhill's books and similar ones are excellent starting points, although a bit dated now in terms of technology and technique. Consider them a "must have" for your modeler's library. Understand that you will likely encounter difficulties without a decent reference library that contains at least the basics. (Collecting books can get as addictive as collecting tools!)

 

If you aren't already at least an "armchair" loftsman, sawyer shipwright, jeweler, tailor, painter, ropemaker, and however many other trades and crafts are involved in scratch-building ship models, then pick any one of the many practicums that will walk you through a scratch-build of a relatively simple model. Practicums come in the form of on line PFD articles, CDs, and books. (Underhill's Plank on Frame Models is a practicum for a merchant brig, Leon.  Longridge's The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships is a practicum for Victory.) Many of the more detailed MSW build logs are pretty much practicums in and of themselves. Be aware, however, that practicums vary in the amount of prior knowledge they presume their readers have. Some will only address unique construction details and, for example, leave the builder to reference another work to obtain details on rigging. 

From what I've seen, you won't go wrong taking on anything from Syren, Ronberg, or Anscherl. 

 

There are some useful articles on the (somehwhat neglected of late?) MSW articles database:

 

http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/plans_and_research/ScratchBuildingaModelShipgene.pdf

http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/pinnace instructions me.pdf

http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Chuck Passaro - MS Brig Syren Prototype Build Log.pdf

Edited February 22, 2020 by Bob Cleek

[Bill Brown]

Bill,

 

I am also building my first scratch build and I selected Syrens Cheerful.   The plans and instructions are stellar.  Chuck has the instructions on line so have a look.   I think it is a good first step in the scratch build world with the Winchelsea as a nice second step up in complexity.  Imho. 
 

Bill B. 

[Bill Hill]

Thanks Bill,

 I think that it will be my approach also.   Did you buy a saw to mill the wood?

[stuglo]

I think it fair to say that any project whose appearance and/or history that takes your interest will be fine especially if one or more blogs are already on this site. Much more work is needed for the scratch built and I would suggest that a scroll saw as well as a table saw are important to avoid slow repetitive and boring work. 

[Bill Brown]

Bill,

 

No I don’t have a saw.  I was fortunate to get all the Cheerful wood precut from Chuck before he stopped providing precut strips.    For my next project I will most likely invest in a Byrnes Saw and possibly a thickness sander unless I can borrow their use from some of my ship model club members.   That’s one of the real perks of being part of a great ship modeling club.  😉

 

Bill

[Jaager]

Bill,

You are potentially golden.   In your place, I would see if the local club has a member with a large band saw.  If there is one, see if he is willing to let you use it.  If yes, find out the length of the blades on his machine. 

Go to Band Saw Blades Direct and order one or two Lenox bimetal Diemaster 2    4 tpi 1/2" by 0.025" blades.  All steel have a short life and carbide does not last enough longer than bimetal to justify paying 3 times more for it.   It would be pushing charity too far to use a donor's blade for a serious number of cuts.  As a beginner in scratch building,  it would be practical to forego using expensive fad/cachet species that are imported and use less expensive locally available species, at least until you have enough experience not to have to ask.   I would see if I could make friends with Riephoff Sawmill or similar.  See if you can get 4x4 or 8x4 domestic hardwood of the proper species.  The commercial ones are Hard Maple, Black Cherry, Yellow Poplar,  outside possibility Honey Locust.  Kiln dried,  If there is a local kiln that caters to civilians, you can get fast access to self harvested species.  Otherwise it is billet, seal, stack, sticker in a out of the way sheltered and ventilated location, and wait years.   Local species that are worth the bother = Dogwood, Apple, Pear (both fruit and ornamental)  Plum, Hawthorn. 

The next stage is a thickness sander.  I have homemade and Byrnes.  Byrnes is worth the cost.   Once you have one dimension from the sander, it is time for a table saw for planks, etc.  Again, Byrnes is worth the extra cost.