Bibury Arlington Row by masa - Aedes ars - Ho scale

[popeye the sailor]

kinda like playing Jenga..........from what I'm seeing,  all the trouble came from one block..not to say that other blocks added to it.  I'm sure there is a way to gauge the height...the width of the block can be addressed after the wall is assembled.  you set yourself up well using the MDF.......perhaps a sort of jig can help you out further..........something along the lines of a short,  easy to manipulate straightedge.  they do sell really short levels.....a laser level perhaps?  just throwing ideas out there........your doing a really good job  

[mtaylor]

I'm curious about your little mini sander... is there something to search (keywords) for on Fleabay or Amazon?  A small one like that might be better in some instances than dragging out my big one.

[popeye the sailor]

I think Micro Mark carries it....I'll have to check  

[modeller_masa]

I fixed them. All things are connected, so I had to finish rest of wall parts to fix it.

 

By the way, I have only a few days until the birthday.  No time to rest and sleep. The walls are almost done (90%), but placing a rooftop takes lots of time to fit tightly. The wood blocks are balsa wood. I'm running out of sanding paper.  

[modeller_masa]

Wow, the page went to 2 page. I didn't notice your comments. Sorry. 

 

Popeye the sailor : Exactly. But, I think I didn't need to care about leveling if I drew horizontal lines on the MDF. If I used the original cardboard paper, the leveling would have been 100 times easier than now. I should have to draw the lines when I made CNC MDFs.

 

mtaylor : Here is the link I ordered.

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33014864680.html?spm=2114.13010708.0.0.60d44c4dmqrYLv

 

In your case, the type 6 is the best one. (Type 1~3 : 15mm width, Type 4~6 : 25mm width) If you choose the 25mm belt sander, you can purchase additional 25mm width sanding belts from here.

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000510159483.html?spm=2114.13010708.0.0.60d44c4dmqrYLv

 

Also, I recommend you to buy this speed controller.

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32945884969.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.67964c4dyI7vVg

 

This one makes the mini belt sander perfect. When I tested it with the sander, I was able to slow down the speed to make it less aggressive and more slience. I think the sander with this speed controller will be very useful for my next wooden model ship project.

[mtaylor]

Thanks Masa.  I'll look into it.  

[modeller_masa]

Although the Aliexpress removed some pirate items such as ZHL ships this year, there are many similar items that don't have enough quality original has. I also ordered another belt sander at first, and then cancelled it soon due to bad feedbacks. This is one of the caution points when you purchase something from the biggest Chinese store.

 

- Find the best, not the cheapest item on the list. All the items may not be same. Some cheap items can be a lower quality item that couldn't pass QC or copied item by the other shops.

- Read feedbacks carefully. If no feedback, avoid the item if you can.

- Buy the reliable item as someone recommended. However, don't estimate that the seller sell the same item in the next time.

- Be patient. the shipping speed from them is always terribly slow before and after COVID-19. It will take 2~3 months. You can cancel it after 3 months.

 

 

 

[mtaylor]

Thanks Masa.  I find the same care you're using for Aliexpress to be the same ones I used in the past on E-Bay (I don't use them anymore).

[modeller_masa]

Yes. The Chinese sellers moved to their country's flea market from the middle of 2010s. At first, they increased the price on the Ebay, and then removed listings. The Ebay still offer much better customer protection, but I don't use it anymore when I purchase chinese cheap items. Of course, I'm always aware of a chance of loss money at Aliexpress.

[modeller_masa]

 

This is the most important part of my project. I didn't pay attention to the gap between blocks. The result after sanding is catastrophic, but I wasn't disappointed because it is part of my plan. Which one will save more time? Polishing each blocks? or filling the gaps?

 

To get the answer, I executed my plan that using acrylic modeling paste with block dusts. The color is ok, viscosity is ok, and the drying speed is a bit fast, but better than mixing with PVA glue. It seems promising after filling the gaps and broken edge blocks, but it's not solid answer yet. I'll slightly sand the excessive pastes and check the final result tomorrow.  

 

[modeller_masa]

Passed the test.

Great result. Now it looks like 13th century building to compare with the yesterday's wreckage. If you pay more time for sanding, it will be a 21th century modern style building.

 

There is a warning point. The modeling paste dries quickly, but it tends to be... gummy. It seems to be a solid rock and very tight, but it can be easily removed by sharp knife. When you remove the rubber film without care... it will bite the nearby stones like the upper picture.

 

This is my methodology. Just sand it. Don't try to remove the film with knife easily. Hard work will make looking better. Don't spread it. Fill the crack only. It can be a kind of paint, but it is very weak paint for long period of time. Just use it to fill cracks.

[popeye the sailor]

looks good    scribing the mortar joints will give it some extra detail........lotta work though 

[modeller_masa]

The wall is almost done. Making the balsa block ridges was easy task thanks to a mini belt sander, but the placing a roof was really time consuming hard work. I'll go to a roof after more tuning - filling the gaps and polishing edges.

 

Three days left, but i'll keep going on. A new due date is a next week.

[modeller_masa]

After 4 days, I finally finished polishing work. The wall is done.

I used a cheap multi-use water based matte varnish. The stone really absorbs water quickly, so the brushing a varnish was smooth work. I satisfy the result of the varnish.

This will be a final showcase. I already received acrylic panels for case asembly, and I'll paste the texts on the transparent front window using transfer paper. I'm testing the two kind of transfer paper to get the best result (water based transfer paper and thermal heat transfer paper)

 

[modeller_masa]

I tried to attach a thermal transfer paper on acrylic panel... Failed. Looking for the other ways. The most famous and best solutions cost a lot. (over $30)

Finished to build a bottom of roof . Started to attach roof tiles... Why didn't I use a masking tape? It works like a superman.

I thought the roof tiles are better than wall blocks. NO. Every tiles are not SQUARE. I have to sand them all... Phew. Also, the size of the tiles are super different that makes ugly pattern. I decided to make a jig that produces exact same parts.

After thousands of seconds... I made a simple jig for adjusting length of tiles to 10.0mm simultaneously. Adjusting method is a screw bolt.

Attached UHMW tapes to lower friction.

Works fantastic! I should have made the jig when I started!

[Ekis]

You absolutely want to make it easier for yourself: you're right!
But are you sure that your final set won't be too clean compared to reality ?
It seems to me that not all Bibury's tiles are exactly the same, right ?☺️

[modeller_masa]

8 minutes ago, Ekis said:

too clean compared to reality

That's a point. I'll give a finished kit to someone this week. The person doesn't have knowledge of modelling hobby, and usually likes a neat and clean things like many common people. I would say that the person won't like weathered model, and it is one of the reason I made a GLOSSY acrylic base and case. My minimum goal is a picture on an original package. If I didn't have a due date, (Actually, the birthday was last week...) I would have added drain pipes and terrains just like your picture. 

[modeller_masa]

 

This is really challeging issue. To get the best result, I tied tiles together at corner. This method took TWO HOURS to do this picture only.

 

 

I simplified the first method a little bit as you see. The second method took ONE HOUR to do same amount of part.  Still slow , but the quality is similar.

 

 

The third method that manual explained may take about 10~20 minutes to do same amount of work. However, it is not beautiful. 

 

In reality, The first method is more like a real arlington row, but the block's scale is too big. (1/18~1/24) For this Ho scale (1/87) kit, The third method is more like realistic at distant view although the roof tiles are too big.

 

I have no time, but I don't want to lower quality...

[Ekis]

Yes, the tiles are too thick for our scale...
Personally, I sand each tile so that they are thinner when they overlap on the roofs. It's long, but more realistic. 😁

[modeller_masa]

 

I replaced paper chimneys to MDF blocks. However, When I tried to apply them...

 

 

I found that the angle is different due to my new MDF structure. Tomorrow, I'll cut the roof simply, and place the cube chimney on it. The balsa reinforced ridge is flexible for this kind of job.

 

By the way, you may be interested in the blue and green 4.5 strips.

 

 

It is a distance between roof tiles. I calculated the number from manual, and...

 

 

It is verified.

 

 

I made the paper sticker rulers using powerpoint and laser printer.  Due to a MDF structure, I had to make new roof ground. (Check the orange cardboard.) The ruler sticker will help me to draw guide lines with masking tape.

[modeller_masa]

 

I made a new jig for same height adjustment. Much easier than before.

 

 

Very slow work. I already gave up finishing on time.

[Egilman]

23 minutes ago, modeller_masa said:

I made a new jig for same height adjustment. Much easier than before.

 

Very slow work. I already gave up finishing on time.

Well, look at it this way, next time you will know with experience to allow more time, and how to do it faster since there is so much you've learned about it now......

 

That's if you want to do another.....

[modeller_masa]

Thanks for your comment, Egilman. I should recreate myself for a while. A good result is residue of enjoying mind.

[popeye the sailor]

looks great.....glad to see your getting to roofing   

[modeller_masa]

Thanks, popeye. The roof part determines 90% of this kit's charming point.  

[modeller_masa]

 

Hello.

I apologize for delaying progress. After I finished a doll house, I recalculated all amount of process and found that I didn't even pass a milestone. My current progress is like a completing the 1st planking only.

 

Because I will sand all of roof tiles to same size, I need about 3,000 pieces, but only 2,750 pieces according to weight calculation are in my hand. It is the reason I bought a same kit again for insufficient 300 additional pieces. 😂 The kit has 5~10% additional parts, but my way needs more of them... Also, I need a minute per a tile for sanding. It means I need 50 hours to sand 3,000 pieces alone. 😱

 

This is the most time taking progress that I undergraded at the beginning... I didn't hear about it when I bought it... I expected that the whole kit would be done within 2 weeks until I received the NRG Half Hull Planking kit... A painful lesson... From today, I'll sand roof tiles little by little every day. It will take a long day that you may be disappointed. I'm sorry about delaying the project, but promise that I won't let it incompleted. I'll post a finished project of the NRG HHP kit at the end of this month, and this project may be updated on Oct or Nov. Of course, please feel free to ask any questions about this project.

 

By the way, I won't make a same kit again with a new kit. I'll use the surplus parts as decoration for other models.  

[Ekis]

Hi Masa,
Just a question: Why did you buy a complete kit instead of just buying extra tiles?
I think the tile number should be 2211, sold in batches of 300 pieces.

 

 

[modeller_masa]

Ekis,

I think you're a French, and you may be able to find extra parts at local hobby stores. However, I can't find any information about this company in South Korea. The only way I can purchase the extra tiles online is ordering at Amazon.es via shipping agency in Europe. The final cost will be about $50.

https://www.amazon.es/AEDES-Aedes2211-Láminas-Papel-Piezas/dp/B00SAH0XUM/ref=sr_1_2?__mk_es_ES=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&dchild=1&keywords=Aedes+2211&qid=1593867788&sr=8-2 

 

Also, I thought about buying less complex kit like a country house with same tiles, but they are quite expensive, and my kit is relatively economical.

https://www.amazon.com/Aedes-Ars-Aedes_1413-English-House-Model/dp/B001F9XFI4/ref=sr_1_22?dchild=1&keywords=aedes+ars&qid=1594428999&sr=8-22

 

The ref.2206 tiles for roof ridge is not replaceable, but I already have a plan to replace it using plastruct tubes. I'll cut the plastic tube and paint them. On the other hands, I can make my own roof ridges using CNC...

 

I think these stone blocks give me a passion for creativity. I'm making lots of plan to use the white and brown blocks for stand or decoratives.  

[Ekis]

You're absolutely right, excuse me! ☺️
Indeed, depending on where we live in the world, we don't always have the possibility to get what we want to build our models, or at incredible prices, not to mention the shipping costs...
Show us the rest of your build as soon as possible!

[modeller_masa]

In other word, I'm finding novel models unseen in my life at here. The cost and language wall is thick, but it is worth to come this forum and watch your post.  

I'll be back!