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HMS Cruiser by Wahka_est - Caldercraft - 1:64


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1 hour ago, Thunder said:

The cleats I missed were at the base of the main mast and are poorly shown on the belaying diagram on sheet 3 belaying points for 11,12 and 13. I think there should be bitts here like to the fore of the mast but no room to fit now as grating and pumps in the way. 

Only reason i havent missed them on mast is that i saw picture of that. I hope i havent missed something else now :D

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Hello. I keep my fingers crossed for a good result.:) Pay attention to the function of the pulley ..

 

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Ondras.

Done : President - https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=90230
Under construction : Roter Lowe - https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=114576

 

Member of the organizing clubhttps://wchs-c-2023.klom-admiral.cz/en

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9 hours ago, Ondras71 said:

Hello. I keep my fingers crossed for a good result.:) Pay attention to the function of the pulley ..

 

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Hi,

 

To be honest i dont understand what you mean by pulley function. Regarding knots i meant how to do them so they look good:)

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41 minutes ago, clearway said:

comes with practice wahka, on my hms victory log i put a demonstration of how i do it (will be in last couple of pages somewhere). i used to do it with the ends pulled in etc but found an easier method.

 

Keith

Hi,

 

Just looked at your Victory build. Really nice! Also your suggestion is simple and work really well. have to try it when i get home.

Usually when we have problems we intend to search for complicated solutions where in reality the solution might be just a simple knot, twist and knot.... :)

Keep and eye on me, maybe you have other suggestions also :D

Vahur

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14 hours ago, Wahka_est said:

Hi,

 

To be honest i dont understand what you mean by pulley function. Regarding knots i meant how to do them so they look good:)

In my opinion, you have the pulley turned, the hole must be at the yard. I prefer to use pulleys with an imitation of a wheel that is inside, ie with two holes.

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I just want to keep you from repairing in time. Ondras

Ondras.

Done : President - https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=90230
Under construction : Roter Lowe - https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=114576

 

Member of the organizing clubhttps://wchs-c-2023.klom-admiral.cz/en

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9 hours ago, Ondras71 said:

In my opinion, you have the pulley turned, the hole must be at the yard. I prefer to use pulleys with an imitation of a wheel that is inside, ie with two holes.

81139919_kladkaW..jpeg.f0608fcb77ae0eebaa630ecd4d289488.jpeg

 

I just want to keep you from repairing in time. Ondras

Tnx. I really appriciate this feedback. I just thought about this few days ago as i noticed that everyone else has it the other way.

 

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Hi Wahka,

 

I have just noticed another mistake i have made that hopefully you can still correct on your build. At the rear of the fore most grating the corners should have sections missing to make larger holes for the anchor cables to run through. I have checked and there is no mention i can find for this any where in the instructions. You can just make them out on sheet 1. It may be worth modifying your belays at the base of the foremast as I do not have a clear run for the anchor cables from the Hawes holes, round the bits and back through the gratings.

Current Build(s):

  • H.M.S Diana 1794 - Caldercraft 1:64 Scale

 

Completed Builds:

 

 

 

 

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On 8/24/2020 at 7:22 PM, Wahka_est said:

My headaches trying to use Blenders guide for block rigging.
 

Have been strugelling with block knots. Found great instructions on site but never got them to work. So decided to try with bigger dimenson to find out whats the problem. So somehow with thicker rooe it came out great. Made more and more examples all good. Then went back to original rigging and disaster again. Was so desparate-WHY IT DOES NOT WORK....?

Then thought ok i have cord from my Terror build, lets try with that. Again, come out nicely. Started looking more into CC rooe and realized that it does not slide at all. I tried siezing with normal knots and again it was so tight. 
Summary: cant use CC rope for attatcking blocks to yards or eyelts as it does not slide at all. Maybe im just imcompitent but pile of used tread on table showed that i didnt give up easily.

 

So now i have nirmal sewing tread that i used for Terror and got from my father. Outcome is there. Covered brushed with dillutated pva and soon i can try if it loosens or not.

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I'm glad I can help while I can. I am sending a link to the work of the Czech modeller Vladimír Mareš to your work on the blocks, I used the same method. I can recommend..

https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=68726&p=1551963&hilit=kompletací+košů+bloky+pod+košem#p1551963

Ondras.

Done : President - https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=90230
Under construction : Roter Lowe - https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=177&t=114576

 

Member of the organizing clubhttps://wchs-c-2023.klom-admiral.cz/en

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Time for small uodate.

 

Varnished the hull and deck. Really happy with result, specially deck as it gives that slight wet look i was after. Used Admiralty matt varnish.

 

Clued cleats. Have interesting problem-kit has more cleats i can find on drawings....

Anyone with some problem?

 

Not happy with CC rooes so i have to order new ones or lend it from other kits...not sure yet. I have feeling that i must see and feel new rope and not buy it just online. Will try to find Güntteann thread here.


Also as slow pace i do the cannons-damn they are time consuming.


Woodworking i close to an end with yards and cannons left. Then its off to rigging... 

 

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She is looking really great, making a cracking job.

 

With what did you fix the large cleats on the inside of the bulwarks? There is not much of a fixing pin on them and mine 'pinged' off as soon as I tried to rig to belay the rigging to them. Another thing to watch out for. By rights the clewgarnets sheets and tacks should be left loose when no sail is rigged but it is hard to get the ropes to hang neatly. The cleat could not take any tension.

Current Build(s):

  • H.M.S Diana 1794 - Caldercraft 1:64 Scale

 

Completed Builds:

 

 

 

 

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16 minutes ago, Thunder said:

She is looking really great, making a cracking job.

 

With what did you fix the large cleats on the inside of the bulwarks? There is not much of a fixing pin on them and mine 'pinged' off as soon as I tried to rig to belay the rigging to them. Another thing to watch out for. By rights the clewgarnets sheets and tacks should be left loose when no sail is rigged but it is hard to get the ropes to hang neatly. The cleat could not take any tension.

Thank you Thunder!

 

I used epoxy to glue them. Drilled a hole slightly bigger than pin and i worked.For glueing cast parts i usually use epoxy as Im not sure about CA.

 

Regarding ropes you mentioned Gütermann. Didi you just buy the thread or you also made your own ropes with machine?

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Hi Wahka,

 

I would love to make my own ropes but no struggling on with caldercrafts. I use the Gutermann for the smaller threads and doing the seizing.

 

I really love the look of home made ropes, just wish i had the patience to do it.

 

your right to use epoxy, CA is to brittle. I used to use a CA called Prism 406 which was really good but does not seem to have the same properties now.

Current Build(s):

  • H.M.S Diana 1794 - Caldercraft 1:64 Scale

 

Completed Builds:

 

 

 

 

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12 hours ago, clearway said:

looks o.k. all comes with practice, more tedium = better results 😁

 

Keith

Tnx Keith.

trial and error daily to get it better. I have a gut feeling im getting there. Problem is that they come loose (i cover with dillutated pva). So ik trying to find ways how it would penetrate everywhere and closes the knot.

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Im so pissed. Knots are fine but they come loose. I used dillutated pva for seizing it. Cant understand what im doing wrong. 
I do the final tightening after pva so it would penetrate trough.

I know solution would be CA but it would ruin the look i think.

 

Any ideas?

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I do tend to use CA but it has two disadvantages. Yes it makes the thread and know brittle, You need to make sure the block is angled correctly for its application or you can get a unnatural kink, especially if block is on a pendant. Second is that if it spreads onto the wood of the belaying point or yard arm it will stain it making it look permanently wet.

 

However, it thread you are using has too much nylon content PVA doesn't work as well.

Current Build(s):

  • H.M.S Diana 1794 - Caldercraft 1:64 Scale

 

Completed Builds:

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Thunder said:

I do tend to use CA but it has two disadvantages. Yes it makes the thread and know brittle, You need to make sure the block is angled correctly for its application or you can get a unnatural kink, especially if block is on a pendant. Second is that if it spreads onto the wood of the belaying point or yard arm it will stain it making it look permanently wet.

 

However, it thread you are using has too much nylon content PVA doesn't work as well.

Thx. This is helpful. I will go and look for non nylon thread today.

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Thread that i got was so weak it snapped.

So continiued with nylon? One that i had aand to be honest i like that look.

This ime its only pva, not dillutated and it worked. So i hold my fingers crossed and try to move on with only pva.

 

PS i like how it turned out.

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I guss i hve too much in my mind.....

 

So spent hours on sanding and glueing cannon carriages. Apparently i got it all wrong.... it should be more narrow at front not back...

 

Only one correct is sample i did at start.

good i sat down after glueing and was looking books how to make the tackle for cannins and noticed something was off...

 

Also it seems that kit does not provide enough correct parts to do the tackle correctly. 
 

I have a strong feeling some other parts are in kit that dont belong there for some reason....

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And demolished ...and started again-sad. But now i know...ALWYS that it should be like this. 7pieces were allready painted that i also demolished... At least got the 10 right when redoing them :D 

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Got info from Thunder also that kit is lacking pieces (hooks, blocks etc) for gunports tackle. So inguess i need to order extra-just wasnt planning to so any investments as wnough has been invested and was planning to finally finish one kit. Lets see, i guess i will think of some solution. 

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12 minutes ago, clearway said:

seems strange as caldercraft are among the top kit suppliers compared to occre ,artesenia etc

 

Keith

Thought it might be my kit as it has some curse on it-starting with replacing all wood as it was horrible, following wrong bulwarks as openings are now sized for carronades(Snakes it parts).

But it seems terrible wood is something others have said and Thunders build confirms that parts are missing for cannons.

 

I understand it was early designs etc but still for that much money. Now you can get superb kit from Chris for that.

 

But i take it as learning process-i have learned so mich with having little info. I search from books, builds etc. Soon i could concider muself little educated man :D . I should take a picture of my library :D 


But you know you have to let that frustration out...cant do that home as wife doest not share that passion :D she said it still will look pretty nice :D :D :D 

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23 minutes ago, clearway said:

seems strange as caldercraft are among the top kit suppliers compared to occre ,artesenia etc

I think that was SOP back in the day. I had to purchase extra material for tackles for Sherbourne.

Chris Coyle
Greer, South Carolina

When you have to shoot, shoot. Don't talk.
- Tuco

Current builds: Brigantine Phoenix, Hawker Hurricane

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