HM Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 by James H - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[James H]

I spent the last weeks bending Chris's ear about stuff. You've him to thank for Flirt 😆

[GrandpaPhil]

Congratulations!  Nicely done!

[Strata]

Beautiful ship. Speedy might be famous, but Flirt is much better looking.

 

But i am still more interested in that mystery project i suspect to be some small pre-revolutionary french ship (corvette or very small frigate): https://modelshipworld.com/topic/20737-chris-watton-and-vanguard-models-news-and-updates/?do=findComment&comment=695838 .

[chris watton]

1 hour ago, Strata said:

Beautiful ship. Speedy might be famous, but Flirt is much better looking.

 

But i am still more interested in that mystery project i suspect to be some small pre-revolutionary french ship (corvette or very small frigate): https://modelshipworld.com/topic/20737-chris-watton-and-vanguard-models-news-and-updates/?do=findComment&comment=695838 .

I will update you on that later this week, it does look pretty cool!

 

ETA - Both versions of Flirt will be available to pre order very soon, as everything is almost ready and sorted, after a very stressful couple of weeks organising printing and new size boxes....

[Suzdal]

Chris,

 

Could you go into some detail on what the difference is between the 2 versions.

 

Richard

[chris watton]

Standard version Flirt is already high spec, with laser cut pearwood and pearwood planking, Keel and bulkheads are 3mm MDF, and lower 2mm deck and stern frames are 2mm birch ply (the 2mm deck was initially meant to be done in 'Ceiba ply', but I decided this material was utter trash, and changed to much stronger 2mm birch ply) . There will be 2mm single blocks for rigging the cannon carriages if you so desire.

 

Master Shipwright version is crazy spec, but will look fantastic, DelF's version of Speedy looks wonderful. Flirt MS will have laser cut keel and bulkheads in the highest quality birch ply, all wooden laser cut parts in 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm, 3mm and 4mm boxwood, second planking in boxwood too. Machined pearwood blocks as standard PLUS 90+ 2.5mm 2 hole pear wood blocks for rigging the cannon carriages.  This version also comes with the 18' cutter as standard, with 1x2mm boxwood planking.

 

Both versions will have 100 metre reels of Gutterman 0.1mm thread, so there's more than enough for rigging the cannon as well as masts and yards.

 

I changed my mind about the box very late, last week in fact. I am now having the same type as the small Fifie and Zulu, but a larger internal length (520x300x90mm), so the planking strips fit in better, plus I could have two labels for the boxes, one for the standard and one for the MS version.

[glbarlow]

You’re still using a harder cardboard outer box for shipping?
 

cant wait to get my master Shipwright version. 

[BobG]

What does exactly "Limited Edition" mean on the Master Shipwright version? Will you only produce a limited number of these kits and, once they are sold, no more will be available in the future?

[chris watton]

2 hours ago, glbarlow said:

You’re still using a harder cardboard outer box for shipping?
 

cant wait to get my master Shipwright version. 

Yes, I will not ship a kit without the box. I have to wait until I get the boxes so I can measure the area and then get the sleeves made.

1 minute ago, BobG said:

What does "Limited Edition" actually mean on the Master Shipwright version? Will you only produce a limited number of these kits and, once they are sold, no more will be available in the future?

Yes, it means exactly that. The materials used are so expensive it can be nothing else but limited edition.

 

More may be available in the future if I decide to invest in the materials again, but not for a good while.

[BobG]

What are the main differences between pearwood and boxwood? Is one more desirable to work with than the other in ship modeling and, if so, why? Thanks.

[chris watton]

18 minutes ago, BobG said:

What are the main differences between pearwood and boxwood? Is one more desirable to work with than the other in ship modeling and, if so, why? Thanks.

Boxwood is almost 4 times the cost of even pearwood. It is much closer grained and very strong. The colour is different, lighter than pear wood. Boxwood is used a lot for delicate carving because it doesn't split like 'normal' woods. Flirt MS version has 6 laser cut sheets in varying thicknesses, and 1x4, 1x3 and 1x2mm boxwood strip for hull planking.

[EKE]

Greetings y'all! 

 

I'm getting the itch again, and I'm starting to think about building Flirt.  I've been reading the build logs, and studying the plans and the manual. 

 

I have an initial question for Chris and James.  Regarding the pre-beveling of some of the bulkheads and frame parts:  the manual explicitly states that there are engraved bevel lines on some of the parts, and James' build log suggests this.  However, looking at my parts sheet, I don't see any bevel lines engraved into any parts.

 

Am I missing something?  If they are not there, is there a way to get a drawing of these lines so I could transfer them to the parts?  I can't imagine trying to pre-bevel these parts without knowing where the lines are.

 

Thanks for any advice you can provide!

-Erik

 

 

Edited August 1, 2021 by EKE

[glbarlow]

I don’t have those lines on my masters Shipwright version, nor does bulkhead 10 have front engraved on it (though obviously that’s easy to figure out). Sorting out the beveling is no big deal either, just as FYI to Chris.   I i

do have the first kit out the door though.  Just now starting it.  

Edited August 2, 2021 by glbarlow

[EKE]

I thought I should post a follow-up on my previous post.  I’ve been in correspondence with Chris regarding the beveling of the parts.  He was quite clear that bevel lines have never been a feature of either the Flirt or Speedy kits, as I’m sure those of you who have built them can attest.  There is some language in the manual which is a bit ambiguous, and having just finished Chris’ Zulu kit (which features the bevel lines), I jumped to the conclusion that they should have been included with Flirt.  My mistake.  
 

Thanks so much to Chris for the information, and for his excellent and personal customer support!

 

 

[James H]

On 8/1/2021 at 11:14 PM, EKE said:

I have an initial question for Chris and James.  Regarding the pre-beveling of some of the bulkheads and frame parts:  the manual explicitly states that there are engraved bevel lines on some of the parts, and James' build log suggests this. 

Sorry about that. I am a plonker. It's been changed for the next print run.

 

I was building so intensively over that period that my recollections were clouded with some of the fisher stuff I'd just finished. You can use my photos as a guide though as you're always best taking off too little than too much. It's only a rough bevel. 

[EKE]

Thanks so much, James.  Understood!  No worries at all.  I’m really looking forward to building Flirt, and I’m blessed to have your build log here as a guide. 

[James H]

4 minutes ago, EKE said:

Thanks so much, James.  Understood!  No worries at all.  I’m really looking forward to building Flirt, and I’m blessed to have your build log here as a guide. 

Always happy to help! Looking forward to your work.

[Phalpenny]

On 6/24/2020 at 6:57 AM, James H said:

Rigging begins with the bowsprit, spritsail boom and boomkins. This differs a lot to the Speedy kit. Note also there is no flying jibboom on Flirt. There are different, significant changes between Flirt as she's depicted in her early rigging style, and the later rig depicted in the Speedy kit. The masts are then drilled to accept the yard pins which will help keep everything in place whilst I rig. The yards are only temporarily fitted for this post. 

 

Great work James. Your posts have been very helpful for me with my build. I wondered how you secured the spritsail boom to the bowsprit. Did you glue it or attach it with thread? The instructions suggest the latter method but I can't see any thread in your photos. I'm thinking that gluing it might be easier and more secure? Thanks!

[James H]

1 hour ago, Phalpenny said:

 

Great work James. Your posts have been very helpful for me with my build. I wondered how you secured the spritsail boom to the bowsprit. Did you glue it or attach it with thread? The instructions suggest the latter method but I can't see any thread in your photos. I'm thinking that gluing it might be easier and more secure? Thanks!

You can use thread for lashing, but I pinned in position first with a small length of 1mm brass wire. 

[Phalpenny]

Thanks James. I’ll give that a try!