F-104C Starfighter "Blue Jay Four" by Egilman - Minicraft/Hasegawa - 1/32nd Scale

[Egilman]

6 hours ago, CDW said:

See this thread: http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/general_discussion/f/9/p/162653/1779851.aspx

 

Just wondering if you ran across this thread while you searched for the application of RnB as a NMF?

None of these fellows offered any hopes for success as a practical matter. It would be very enlightening to learn exactly how the modeler you cited used the product on his Zipper. Being a wax, I am very skeptical it can offer a durable, NMF finish on an entire aircraft model. Small bits and pieces, maybe, but an entire model, no.

 

Craig...

 

I looked up the article the question was based upon, Finescale Modelers December 2014 issue...

I read the article.... Build a Canadian Starfighter; By Jean Paul Poisseroux.... It does explain his technique...

 

He built an Italeri #2502 1/32 F-104A/C into a CF-104 and yeah the BMF was overall RnB Silver Leaf & Pewter for the aft dark metal over Tamiya Acrylic Flat Black as primer to give the RnB some bite on the surface.... no other finishes were used.. The decals were set right over the RnB using Micro Sol.... He states that there was no problem with the RnB coming off the model like I had.... And checking it out, I have no problems with the RnB coming off the wing tanks and horizontal stabilizer also... But it clearly comes off the fuselage....

 

I think I know what my problem is... . I'm putting it on over clearcoat..... That's my error right there in a nutshell... Being an ultra smooth surface, there is nothing for the wax to bite into hence making it easy to just pull off or for hand oils to loosen... Another thing, he masked and waxed the dark panels first before metalizing the fuselage.... Then once metalized he allowed it to dry 24 hours before buffing it up.....

 

I don't know how I could of forgotten that since that is why I did the tanks and tail fin first.... I wish I have seen that article before I did the fuselage.... The tanks and fin buff up into the prettiest shine you would ever want to see... I tried some full strength 3M masking tape, the full automotive grade, and burnished it down across the fin.... It pulled off without lifting anything....

 

I guess it was time for a break anyway..... As I mentioned when I started, since this was a first time attempt, if there was a way to flub it, I would find it..... (apparently even after hitting on the correct way of doing it)

 

Live and learn..... 

 

I think next time it will turn out a bit different.....

 

EG

[Egilman]

1 hour ago, mtaylor said:

Egilman... to quote an old movie line that I found very true..... "listen to the woman". You'll be a lot happier in the end.   I would keep this one as a test bed.

Yeah, they do tell you the way it's going to be, do it right or go home.... {chuckle}

[CDW]

Applying the RnB over a flat base paint makes sense. You'll still want to experiment on scrap, first. Maybe buff the flat base paint first as Tamiya flat black can be rather chalky. 

I'm thinking the 24 hour drying time after application and before buffing is critical, too. Don't know how you'll get around the fingerprint issue, as guys complained that even with gloves, they still got smears. Maybe they didn't give it enough drying time?

 

[Egilman]

I agree Craig....

 

Given that I put it over fine grey tamiya primer on the fin and tanks tells me that a flat primer is the way to go, a micro rough surface for the wax to grab ahold of..... I wouldn't use Tamiya acrylics though good old Testors flat black would be my choice there is no chalky residue with it and it's the darkest black model paint I know of and sprays very thinly as well... Jean Paul used nitrile gloves after applying the RnB specifically to avoid the fingerprint issue...... the 24 hours drying time was new for me so that is now something I will do also. He did the fuselage and wings separate and filled any space with styrene, custom mating the joints before painting them to remove any gaps. I know from my own experimentation that you can put a gloss coat over the RnB after it is down, but since his experience is that the decals will go directly over the RnB without issue, that is probably how I will do it as well and save the gloss coat till the final finishing... But I will test it before I ruin another model..... 

 

Anyway, it's all in the experience file now... and I think I have a course on how to do it... that article at least went into some of the details of how he did it unlike the first two.....

 

Thank you that article was a great find....

 

EG

[popeye the sailor]

sorry I missed the second attempt........even sorrier that it didn't work out.   I'm not familiar with the use of wax,  but it's been my experience to know that metallic paints do not harder like other paints.  I've stayed away from doing 'silver birds',  but I would have if I built another B 17    if there is a method.......I'm sure you will find it.  I do wonder if it might have been better to lay the other paints before the metalization.   your admiral sounds a lot like my admiral.

 

I saw this in my travels........I thought of your project  

[cog]

Denis,

You've got an airbrush ... https://youtu.be/OFb6yxoEgcA

[cog]

EG,

 

Sorry to see your second attempt didn't have the result you hoped for. I would have loved to see that shiny winged cigar

[Egilman]

22 hours ago, popeye the sailor said:

sorry I missed the second attempt........even sorrier that it didn't work out.

 

17 hours ago, cog said:

EG,

 

Sorry to see your second attempt didn't have the result you hoped for. I would have loved to see that shiny winged cigar

Thanks Dennis and you too Carl,  It was a learning experience.

I think with the help of some of Craig's research I've got the answer to doing it in Rub n Buff..... Plans are in progress for Blue Jay Four #2 as we speak.....

 

We will see that shiny Winged Cigar eventually.... But right now getting organized and I have a coors beer runner to finish.....

 

EG

 

[popeye the sailor]

....and then to Boston for some chowder