B-24 Liberator. ragove. 1/72 Minicraft

[Papa]

I’ve been working on this off and on for a while and finally decided to post some progress photos. It’s an older kit and has a lot of flash.  I had a great deal of difficulty getting the bombs to stay on the rack and finally gave up and used the closed bomb bay doors option. I also decided not to obsess over the seams. I am just trying to keep this an enjoyable break from ships.

[Old Collingwood]

Welcome to our  "Winged Club"     great subject  also  looking forward  to more updates.

 

OC.

[Landlubber Mike]

Nice work!  The metal finish looks fantastic.

[Egilman]

35 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Nice work!  The metal finish looks fantastic.

That silver plastic does look remarkably like aluminium......

 

(I don't think it is painted yet)

[popeye the sailor]

another plane that I love to build   {alright.......so I love everything that is modeling}.   looks very nice  

[Roger Pellett]

Nice job!

 

With all of the B-17’s being built I was wondering when someone would build a B-24.

 

Roger

[Papa]

13 hours ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Nice work!  The metal finish looks fantastic.

Thanks. It was just a rattle can spray, Tamiya Bare Metal Silver

[Papa]

About ready to add decals. I could find anything small enough and heavy enough to hold the nose wheel down. I will have to put the dragon on a base and glue her down. 

[popeye the sailor]

coming along really good  

[marktiedens]

Looks good - I have the Monogram kit of this bird in 1/48 scale - may dig it out of the closet at some time.

 

Mark

[Papa]

11 hours ago, marktiedens said:

Looks good - I have the Monogram kit of this bird in 1/48 scale - may dig it out of the closet at some time.

 

Mark

The bird must be huge at 1/48

[marktiedens]

Yep,wingspan is just over 27 inches!

 

Mark

[Papa]

She’s finished and as I expected the decals gave me a lot of trouble. All of the larger decals split into 2 to 3 pieces before releasing from the backing. Also, the dragon decal came in several pieces that, once under the wing,  didn’t match the cover art or the instructions. So a bit of license was taken here. All in all I think it’s not too bad. The left cockpit window went flying across the workshop and I have yet to find it. It initially fell into the cockpit and behind the seats. When I shook it out it went off to the lost world of bits and pieces to join its friends. 

[Old Collingwood]

Very nicely done  - I do feel your pain regarding decals  - at best  fiddly   at worst  a complete nightmare.

 

OC.

[Egilman]

5 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

Very nicely done  - I do feel your pain regarding decals  - at best  fiddly   at worst  a complete nightmare.

 

OC.

I empathise on the decal situation... I used to suffer from the same problem... A suggestion, if I may?

 

When you drop the decal into the water, wait for it to completely separate from the backing before you take it out, it will separate completely eventually. The white glue that is between the paper and decal isn't needed for adhesion to the model. Yes, that is the important point, the white glue isn't needed for adhesion to the model....

 

My technique is to allow the decal to separate, the small ones get picked up with a soft brush and placed on the model with a drop of water. I then take a napkin and using a corner draw off most of the water and use the brush to push the decal into position. Then, I take another dry corner and draw off the rest of the water.... Then you lightly press the decal down onto the surface with a dry part of the napkin looking for bubbles which of course using the point of a pin you pop and drain... the idea is to get it to lay as flat as you can without putting a lot of pressure on it....

 

Then pick up a drop of decal set and drop it onto the decal, and leave it there, let it dry all by itself..... The decal set is what sucks the film down onto the model as it dries...  Larger decals is exactly the same way. My experience doing it the way the kits instructions say usually wound up with at least a few destroyed decals before your finished.....

 

Just a suggestion....

 

EG

[Old Collingwood]

To add to what EG  has said  - I also find those pointed Q tips really useful  (like the ones you get with  photographic  cleaning sets)

 

OC.

[Papa]

I noticed that if the decal soaked long enough it did float off the backing. I failed to take advantage of that until the very end. 
it is contrary to the usual instructions about sliding the decal off, but I agree that it makes more sense and less likely to tear. Although several of the B24 decals just cracked into two or more pieces without being touched. 

“let the decal float free” is my new mantra. 

[Landlubber Mike]

Nice job Ragove!  Came out awesome.

 

Can I ask - for larger decals, how do you transfer the decal from the water dish to the model?  I've used toothpicks and the like for smaller decals, but larger are tricky.  In sliding them off the paper, I haven't quite figure out how to properly do it to get it immediately in the right position (Plasmo on Youtube makes it look way easier than I've found it).  I would worry with larger decals that the decal would curl if you pulled it from the water by an edge or corner, but maybe a wide wet brush would work?

[Egilman]

49 minutes ago, Landlubber Mike said:

Nice job Ragove!  Came out awesome.

 

Can I ask - for larger decals, how do you transfer the decal from the water dish to the model?  I've used toothpicks and the like for smaller decals, but larger are tricky.  In sliding them off the paper, I haven't quite figure out how to properly do it to get it immediately in the right position (Plasmo on Youtube makes it look way easier than I've found it).  I would worry with larger decals that the decal would curl if you pulled it from the water by an edge or corner, but maybe a wide wet brush would work?

On huge wide decals is where you need the paper to be the carrier. You lift the decal out of the water on the paper after it has separated, that is where the slide it off the paper comes from.... (the thin white milky decal glue which dried invisible becomes the lubricant)

 

On older decals, spray it with decal fixative and let that dry before you put it in the water. 

 

The main issue with disintegrating decals is not allowing it to completely separate (glue to liquify) from the backing paper before trying to move it off the paper more often than not.........

 

When I do the decals on the side of the Bandit trailer, (4.5" x 21" two part decals on both sides) I will illustrate the way I do it....

 

EG

[Papa]

I usually take the decal out of the water with fine tip tweezers.  If it’s still on the backing i slide it off onto it’s appropriate location. Then move it as necessary with a soft paint brush. If the decal has come off the backing I still tweezer it out, gently, and put it where it belongs.   Things don’t always go as planned. Some of the tiny decals get stuck to my finger or seem to become invisible. 
 

Ron Gove

 

[popeye the sailor]

I dip the decals in water and lay them on the table...of course they tend to curl a bit.   when I see the paper has relaxed,  then i'll try to move the decal with a finger.  if good,  it goes to the model,  sliding it off the paper.  sometimes I need to dip my finger tip in the water and touch the decal....it will leave a little extra water,  that can be blotted up once the decal has been positioned correctly.  I use a warm water,  or at room temp.   older kits can be problematic concerning decals.......if the paper is curled,  then you know that the sheet has been exposed to humidity.   some even experience micro cracking......exposed to humidity and heat.......changes in humidity and temp.   the older,  thicker decals can take some abuse,  but the newer,  thinner decals need to be handled more carefully.  age will cause them to shrink........I've even gotten what I thought was a new decal sheet,  only to find out that they are old and the cracking has occurred.   the model looks super........bombers are such great subjects    I see you didn't add weight to the nose {inside}.........what you can do is make a base and cement the tires to it......CA works best    congratz on a really nice job!