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  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I decided to use rice paper for the ensign. I placed the paper over the pattern which was produced on a regular lined notebook sheet. As suggested by David, the rice paper was wetted and taped over the pattern to a board just as it started to dry. Once dry, I painted the first side. When that was dry, the rice paper was peeled off the pattern. In doing so, areas of the pattern paper adhered to the rice paper. These were removed by wetting the painted rice paper and gently rubbing off the adherent paper. A tear in the rice paper resulted in a small hole which was covered with a patch.  The ensign was turned over and taped down again, this time over waxed paper. The reverse side was then painted. The patch adhered nicely. When dry both sides were touched up. Final trimming of the edges to the proper dimensions was followed by gluing a  narrow strip of sail cloth along the halliard edge, folded over to the reverse side with the halliard incorporated. The composite was clamped until dry. Next, the halliard was passed through the sheeve atop the ensign staff and down around a cleat at the bottom of the staff. The final step was wetting the ensign with a paint brush and shaping it to resemble a flag assuming a collapsed posture in the absence of wind. The result is shown. 
 

The next image shows the big bower anchor in a styalised pose representing the process of fishing it towards its stowed location on the ship’s side. The cat fall and hook are still  engaged, the stopper and shank pendant are in place, and the fish hook is engaged around the inboard fluke arm. I’m afraid that this will complicate rigging the model some if I decide to proceed in that direction. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

It‘s looking really nice.👍 

Regards Christian

 

Current build: HM Cutter Alert, 1777; HM Sloop Fly, 1776 - 1/36

On the drawing board: English Ship Sloops Fly, 1776, Comet, 1783 and Aetna, 1776; Naval Cutter Alert, 1777

Paused: HMS Triton, 1771 - 1/48

"Have no fear of perfection - you'll never reach it." Salvador Dali

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Euphroes and crows feet were a challenge. I followed Dave’s advice and used 6/0 thread from my fly tying bench. #26 drill with the milling machine. If the holes in the euphroe are too close together, the thread saws its way through from one hole to the next. Leave a distances about equal to a hole diameter between holes. The thread I tie flies with in brown is not mono thread, and it readily comes apart into many tiny filaments unless it’s treated with dilute PVA. After many painful hours of trying to thread that 6/0 thread through the holes in the euphroes, I got a sewing needle from my wife and a needle threader and that made a big difference, especially when trying to reverse thread the holes in the tops. I also learned the hard way to keep tension on the crows feet during threading. Otherwise the euphroe has a habit of rotating, which gets quite confusing as one progresses causing the lines to thread the wrong way at times and losing parallel alignment. I spent about 15 hours over 3 days doing this and must have started over on each mast several times.  

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 4/14/2025 at 6:47 AM, hdrinker said:

I followed David’s recommendations for the fore top spritsail netting. Here’s the jig, which seems essential, and the results.

 

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Posted

Significant error discovered. I should have added a fifth deadeye to the mizzen channels to accommodate the mizzen topmast backstays. But didn’t recognize that the 3-D computer images omit a mizzen top gallant. Instead, I used the deadeye aft of the quarter badge for the topmast backstays, leaving no deadeyes for the top gallant back stays in my version of Pegasus. We’ll, it seems that my choices now would be to 1): redo the entire mizzen and its channels , or 2):  redo the stool aft of the quarter badge to accommodate an additional deadeye. I’m leaning for the latter, but would be welcome to hear from the group.

Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, hdrinker said:

Significant error discovered. I should have added a fifth deadeye to the mizzen channels to accommodate the mizzen topmast backstays. But didn’t recognize that the 3-D computer images omit a mizzen top gallant. Instead, I used the deadeye aft of the quarter badge for the topmast backstays, leaving no deadeyes for the top gallant back stays in my version of Pegasus. We’ll, it seems that my choices now would be to 1): redo the entire mizzen and its channels , or 2):  redo the stool aft of the quarter badge to accommodate an additional deadeye. I’m leaning for the latter, but would be welcome to hear from the group.

Hi Henry,your Dilemma is easily solved. You can fit an item called a deadeye plate,one of these can be seen in Blue Ensign's HMS Pegasus build log part 9, 6th pic down.  Dead easy to make,just an eybolt through small circular piece of wood (Slice off a bit of dowel). The bottom deadeye just hooks into it. I had exactly the same problem rigging my Speedwell build. The Mizzen backstay and Main T'gallant backstay and attaching fittings are totally missing on the rigging plan although they can be seen on the NMM model. It was BE who put me in the picture.

 

Hope this is of help,

 

Dave :dancetl6:

Edited by davyboy
Posted

Great! Will do. Thx.

2 hours ago, davyboy said:

Hi Henry,your Dilemma is easily solved. You can fit an item called a deadeye plate,one of these can be seen in Blue Ensign's HMS Pegasus build log part 9, 6th pic down.  Dead easy to make,just an eybolt through small circular piece of wood (Slice off a bit of dowel). The bottom deadeye just hooks into it. I had exactly the same problem rigging my Speedwell build. The Mizzen backstay and Main T'gallant backstay and attaching fittings are totally missing on the rigging plan although they can be seen on the NMM model. It was BE who put me in the picture.

 

Hope this is of help,

 

Dave :dancetl6:

23 hours ago, hdrinker said:

Significant error discovered. I should have added a fifth deadeye to the mizzen channels to accommodate the mizzen topmast backstays. But didn’t recognize that the 3-D computer images omit a mizzen top gallant. Instead, I used the deadeye aft of the quarter badge for the topmast backstays, leaving no deadeyes for the top gallant back stays in my version of Pegasus. We’ll, it seems that my choices now would be to 1): redo the entire mizzen and its channels , or 2):  redo the stool aft of the quarter badge to accommodate an additional deadeye. I’m leaning for the latter, but would be welcome to hear from the group.

 

Posted

Deadeye plates utilized as advised. Difficult to achieve good parallel alignment however with the surrounding deadeyes due to special confinements in my build. 

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Posted

 That completes the standing rigging for this build. I can identify with Blue Ensign’s comment about the effect of rigging on the back and neck. With Spring now upon us in southeastern Massachusetts, I think I’ll take a break and prepare for the eminent Striped Bass arrival. We live on property that extends to the banks of a tidal river on the coast where the Spring migration of Stripers offers excellent fly fishing opportunities from shore, a good diversion from endless hours in the basement.

Henry

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