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Pegasus by hdrinker - 1:48 - POF - Swan practicum


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  • 2 weeks later...
17 hours ago, hdrinker said:

Nailing below starboard wale complete. Roughly 2K nails! Anyone know of a shrink who specializes in tree nail overload?

We do have one for general shipaholic types...   Dr. Per.  He has a topic in Shore Leave for shipaholics.

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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  • 3 weeks later...

The process of making the tree nail dowels has proven a challenge, for sure. I agree with Kevin that the Byrnes draw plate is exceptional for its accuracy and sharpness. However, any blade will dull with use over time, and this I have found to be true even with this excellent tool. After awhile the stock starts to compress rather than cut when drawn through successively smaller holes. More force becomes necessary and stress accumulates in the dowel, causing breakage and wastage. The solution for me has been (thanks Kevin) the sanding of the flat cutting surface with 100 gr. paper. This restores the sharp edge of the holes. Also, I started cutting the dowel stock narrow enough to just pass through the .059” (largest hole) in the plate. By the time I reached my goal of .031”, the length of the resulting dowel was drastically reduced, leading to more hours of rather tedious work to have enough material for application. By reducing the stock size on the table saw to .042” to start with, I found the process greatly accelerated with much less breakage and about 3 times the resulting amount of usable dowel by the time .031” was achieved.

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Ways to reduce breakage:

 

1) Use bamboo with its long, parallel fibers. Split it first into smaller cross-sections by halving and re-halving the lengths.

 

2) Use parallel pliers to draw the pieces through the plate. The fibers aren't crushed which happens with regular pliers.

 

3) Draw steadily and in a straight line.

 

4) Only use the hard part of the bamboo just under the glassy outer layer.

Edited by druxey

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

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Hi all,

In my defense, I only put the stock into the draw plate from the countersunk side to get it in there. The taper directs the stock into the hole much more easily. I then bring the dowel all the way through to get it in position for the cutting step which, I’m well aware, is in the other direction. Also, by applying a slight angle to the plate, the cutting edge can be made to engage the stock more aggressively, removing a bit more stock. In that video, he stops at .036” which is a lot easier than going to .020”.

Anyway, I’ve ordered some bamboo (not swizzle sticks) in hopes of getting stock without nodes, and will report on the results. 

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  • 1 month later...

Outer hull complete. I found in the end that bamboo clear stock, not skewers, ordered online proved the best source for me for making tree nail dowels and was able to get them down to .020”, starting with very narrow strips cut on my Byrnes saw. Darker tree nails were made from Mansonia stock provided by Dave at the Lumberyard and drawn down to .030 from think strips.

34111BD9-9CD1-4817-BA0F-7C0252A5BE64.jpeg

C8437796-712F-4F7B-A7A5-42C2D196E00A.jpeg

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

My scuppers were made from a silver-gray craft paper.  I rolled the paper around an appropriate diameter dowel to form the scupper.

Toni


Chairman Nautical Research Guild

Member Nautical Research and Model Society

Member Midwest Model Shipwrights

 

Current Builds:     Utrecht-1742

Completed Builds: Longboat - 1:48 scale       HMS Atalanta-1775 - 1:48 scale       Half Hull Planking Project      Capstan Project     Swallow 1779 - 1:48 scale      Echo Cross Section   NRG Rigging Project 

                           Utrecht-1742

Gallery:  Hannah - 1:36 scale.

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I’ve been thinking about scuppers, as I near the task of making them. If pewter is the material of choice, can anyone recommend what form of pewter to start with?

 

I experimented yesterday on the mini lathe with solid aluminum rod. It’s doable but the results are quite bright…not terribly realistic. Pewter does make more sense, but I’m ignorant of a method. No one seems to sell pewter tubing. The paper idea sounds interesting. Any other suggestions?

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