Sovereign of the Seas 1637 by md1400cs - Sergal - 1:78 - to be hopefully bashed

[Katsumoto]

23 hours ago, md1400cs said:

Peter:  Thanks as well for your much appreciated comment. – welcome aboard – so nice of you. I have, in fact, blended some of the Amati decorative pieces into this build. Have you started your Sovereign?

 

 

You're welcome and thank you for having me aboard! 🙂
I've seen some of the Amati decorations between the other from Mantua, if you look closely at your pictures, the Amati decorations have a more yellowish color compared to the Mantua's. 
I haven't started due to the fact I'm still building my current project. Hopefully within 6 months or so I'll be finished with her....I have no deadline.... 😉 
However, thinking about SotS, she's big and complex, so I'm not sure if I'm ready for her yet....In the mean time I'm following your log and all the bashing you have done and going to do....

 

Nice addition with all the lights and man....you take the word "bashing" really seriously.... 😅

 

regards,
Peter

[wade13]

On 2/8/2023 at 5:42 PM, md1400cs said:

 

Hello,

 

Alex-Ks1 -- big thanks 

 

Here are some updated images of the continuing work with the stern gallery outer faces. I like how the outer windows turned out. Certainly more historically accurate (haha – this kit has nothing to do with historical accuracy).. though I am a bit regretful, in that all of the previous work (interior floorings, gold trimming on upper and lower inner window frames, and gallery planking are now totally hidden from view - oh well.

 

FYI: Last image offers a comparison of current kit's metal bit compared to vintage kit's solid bronze bits.

 

Regards,

 

 

 

 

 

More than a model ship designer, a full shipwright and your work is incredible. At every juncture, you question and redefine, until you feel and know the Sovereign like very few others (including those of the 17th Century). I feel like the child of time, sitting up high in dry dock, swinging my legs as I watch captivated; eating dry milled bread and a chunk of cured cheese. Practical, perfectionist and the patient beyond belief... you truly are a shipwright and have made me love the craft. Thank you 

[md1400cs]

Hi,

 

Been away from the yard for a bit of time - so no real updates..

 

Peter (@Katsumoto)

 

Thanks for your very kind post. Yes, you are right the Amati decorations tend to be a little more yellow. I think that over time that they will hopefully fade. Judging from the Amati bits that I added to the forward bulkhead, the others may also “fade” a bit more as well. Good luck with your current project, as well a possibly later starting a sovereign as well.

 

 

Wade13, Wow – so touched by your thoughts – that, BTW, go way beyond my perceptions of what I am capable of. You are overly kind – So appreciate that this project is of great interest for you. You also have a great gift for the written prose….also loved your exaggerations of my skills (;-)))

Again, so touched by your words….

 

I have finally ordered from Evan Designs as many LED’s of different sizes (took three orders) – both flickering and solid, and of different sizes as well that now can move forward installing lights were they may be the most useful. The power source locations are still a work in progress - given that the lights were an afterthought....

 

Regards,

 

 

[md1400cs]

Hi,

Work in progress update. Got all of the LED’s needed from Evan Designs (excellent source!!!). So started the installs – Yikes this would have obviously been SO much easier had I decided to add lights earlier in this project. But enjoying the current challenge this is creating for me.

 

Where to locate the batteries and two needed on/off buttons to be determined. Battery packs will, of course, fit inside – on/off button locations TBD. Will also make some kind of candle looking housings for the lantern LEDs

 

Thanks for dropping by….

 

Edited March 24, 2023 by md1400cs

[fmodajr]

Wow! Ship Modeler and electrician all in one! Who Knew!!  Lol!

Great job,

Frank

 

[md1400cs]

Thanks Frank - always a pleasure when you drop by.

 

Experimenting with locations of the three size lights; Nano, Pico, and Chip blending with some non-flickering as well –

 

This image iPhone was not up to the task (did not pre-set for correct image quality) – lights are not as intense as some depicted in images, but lights harmoniously blend nicely through those windows where I’ve temporarily placed some LEDs. Also, another dozen or so need to be inserted into proper locations.

 

I did determine that I will have to segregate the wiring.

All flickering lights will be connected to a specific 3V AAA power source. Non flickering will have their own AAA battery pack.

 

Evan Designs indicate that all 3V flickering and non-flickering can be sourced from the same power source. Yes, that’s right, they do all work - but I noted that as such, the flickering effect (of those LEDs) becomes much more muted, as to be almost “missing” when blended with non-flickering types.

 

Segregating all flickering onto one power source returned those light to their proper flickering “look”.

 

Having also removed the poop deck will allow me to “fix” an issue that I feel is not quite right – the sloping angle of that deck seems a bit too high at the stern. Other images detail my thoughts

 

Regards,

 

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  You're going to great lengths for the lighting effects ... just be sure to check on the battery status annually, because mini 'chemical' batteries will 'leak' - actually corrode in place.  You might consider using a type without the corrosion problems that have ruined many a Lionel Diesel locomotive where the batteries that ran the 'horn' (actually a bicycle horn used 'back in the day') made a mess of things.

 

  Lithium batteries such as the ubiquitous CR 2032 might be better in the long run ... and I take it that you'd like someone to value and keep your fantastic model long after you've gone.

[md1400cs]

Snug Harbor Johnny,

 

 Thanks, for your nice post as well as your comment/suggestions. Indeed, you are right I (we’ve) probably had issues with leaking Lithium AA/AAA batteries especially in remotes and in electronics that sit idle for extended periods of time.

 

I had originally wanted to add two CR2032 button cells – to be located just under the poop hatch grating cover for easy access, but those button cells only allow a maximum of 10 - 3V LEDs to work with a single CR2032. Had bought two, but decided that I needed more than 20 lights both steady and flickering ones as well. So -so long button cells.

 

 

Now it will be up to the two AAA holders as power sources; also going one step further – The lights being an afterthought, it would have been a mess removing the (to be constructed) case each time to turn the lights on/off. And I’m not prepared to go deep into the ship to drill holes for the on/off switches through the keel – or thereabouts then somehow add the on/off buttons and wires outside of the case.

 

Logged into Evan Designs, they have a remote control with sensors that will turn 3V lights on/off as well for dimming if I so desire (had no idea).

 

 

Perfect solution for when model will be housed in a Plexiglas case. This was suggested to me by a member of another forum – had no inkling of how this technique is so very popular with model railroad enthusiast. Yes, to your well noted point, I will indeed “keep an eye” on potential leaks.

 

Thanks for dropping by and your post – appreciated….

 

Kind Regards,

 

Edited March 28, 2023 by md1400cs

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

LEDs update

Lots of hours installing, so far, 29 LEDs some with flickering as well as some static (all warm white)

 

Eighteen others have been added to needed locations (balcony walkways, and for lanterns) but all need to be secured and positioned into their proper places. It’s also important to aim the LEDs for best visual effect.

 

PS: Evan Designs ROCKS!!

 

Still to do….

•install upper rear quarters ceiling into place (that’s next)

•attach its wiring looms for the seven lights,

•clean up the wiring jungle to make room for both AAA battery packs

•connect remote sensors to all lights and battery packs,

•attach two battery packs, to their permanent locations.

•make “candle looking” cylinders for the five stern lanterns,

•seal any light leaks to the outside,

•re-attach poop deck,

•cut two very small openings in rear facing stern upper panel for the remote sensors,

•make a magnetic connector to that rear panel as well (for easy access to batteries)

 

Thanks for dropping by, likes and comments all much appreciated.

 

Edited April 4, 2023 by md1400cs

[Larryboy]

I'm wanting to start on my Sovereign of the Seas that I bought in 2000. Looking to see what others have done. I haven't gone through your entire build yet but I'm thinking I may need a lot of help. I'm new to MSW and I like what I've seen so far. Thanks. 

[md1400cs]

Hi all,

 

Seems as if log had been "standing still".

That said the 40 LEDs have been installed - now just need to button things up. Next post will be when all is back together.

I will try to add a video that will show the really nice gentle flickering of the lights including the five lanterns. 

 

So appreciate your continued interest in this log.

 

Regards,

 

[Larryboy]

Hi,  I haven't been able to look through any other build logs yet so I don't know how others have done it, but do you have a suggestion for a way to position the gun ports. I take it that your new kit had a template for it. My 2000 vintage kit doesn't have one, it doesn't have the laser cut railings either but that's way down the road anyway. Also would you think that buying the McKay book would be a worthwhile investment for me?  Would you also give me the title of it so I can look for it? Thanks. By the way your model looks great. 

 

[md1400cs]

Larry,

I don't have any suggestions regarding hull gun port openings. The vintage manual requires you to cut out, from the 1/1 scale plan sheet of the opening 

images - then past those to the hull working from there - very weak - indeed. The templates are a huge improvement in the current kit. If you could locate a build log for the old kit - that may be helpful. I don't know of one......

 

That said the "jewel in the crown" of the kit that you have are the 600+ solid bronze decorative bits. I have SO vented in this log about how poor the current product quality for these bits are by comparison.

 

Regarding McKay - that book will be super useful if you intend on adding full sails and "correct" standing rigging. The Mantua instructions are known to be mostly wrong. It is also a great source of general information, with the exclusion of the square tucked stern. Amazon has in both formats.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Sovereign-Seas-1637-Reconstruction-Powerful-ebook/dp/B088ZT37VJ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=98E8GMBE3F2V&keywords=john+mcKay+sovereign+of+the+seas&qid=1683048087&sprefix=john+mckay+sovereign+of+the+seas%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-1

 

This site might also be helpful (use Google translate)  https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=183&t=46754

Scroll down for gun openings.

 

Regards,

Edited May 3, 2023 by md1400cs

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  You are fortunate to have those nice bronze castings ... a reason for someone with enough of a nest-egg to find and buy the Classic kit PLUS the new version with improvements in drawings/ templates, etc.  Then they can have the best of both worlds, besides having plenty of material should anything go wrong along the way.

 

  Nice as the bronze castings are, they can be improved by working with tiny Dremel bits and miniature files to accentuate fine detail and make them 'super cleaned-up'.  I could see spending the better part of a year just going over all the castings this way.  THEN after buffing, one could have them professionally GOLD plated !  For that process there are several cleaning/chemical treating steps, then the substrate is nickel plated for longevity and to sequester the gold to be plated on the surface.  The final step is to electroplate with gold, which will burnish to an unmatched brilliance that will STAY brilliant for a very long time ... like the golden mask of King Tut !!  Yeah, it would cost to have all that done, but I think it would be worth it.

[md1400cs]

On 5/2/2023 at 10:49 AM, Snug Harbor Johnny said:

  You are fortunate to have those nice bronze castings ... a reason for someone with enough of a nest-egg to find and buy the Classic kit PLUS the new version with improvements in drawings/ templates, etc.  Then they can have the best of both worlds, besides having plenty of material should anything go wrong along the way.

 

  Nice as the bronze castings are, they can be improved by working with tiny Dremel bits and miniature files to accentuate fine detail and make them 'super cleaned-up'.  I could see spending the better part of a year just going over all the castings this way.  THEN after buffing, one could have them professionally GOLD plated !  For that process there are several cleaning/chemical treating steps, then the substrate is nickel plated for longevity and to sequester the gold to be plated on the surface.  The final step is to electroplate with gold, which will burnish to an unmatched brilliance that will STAY brilliant for a very long time ... like the golden mask of King Tut !!  Yeah, it would cost to have all that done, but I think it would be worth it.

Yes you are indeed right the bronze bits are super nice. Some parts are soooo tiny that gold plating would be nearly impossible IMO. And given the cost for some 500+ bits would be, for me, above my pay scale.

That said I did, in fact, have the bow ornament (king and horse) gold plated - not cheap.. came out very beautiful - The vintage bronze bits needed almost no "Dremeling" I'm very satisfied with how they look. I did use a brass brush (with a Dremel) to polish them then sprayed all of them with a clear lacquer metal protector to preclude earlier dulling. 

 

Regards,

[md1400cs]

Lighting and stern update.

The images don't show the great subtle flickering lighting effect. I will need to post a video. I suppose that I will also need to add the video

to my youtube channel then copy/paste the link here?? (will need to create a new channel my current one is only aviation related)

All 50 LED lights, battery packs and remote were purchased from Evans Design..

 

As always thanks for your likes, dropping by and comments

 

 

[Baker]

nice work Michael.

And the removable panel is a great idea

[Katsumoto]

Very clever and impressive result! Great work. 

[Retired guy]

Just caught up on your build Michael, brilliant work with all the lights mate, I have not been on my Bluenose build for a while  but just started back on her, really need to finish her.

Anyway hope to see some more work on your fantastic build very soon 👍.

 

Regards

Richard

[Hubac's Historian]

Brilliant lights, Michael, and very impressive how the whole stern came together.

[md1400cs]

Hi all,

 

Patrick – yes, the magnetic panels - seemed to be the best idea given that I much later in this build decided to add lights. 

 

Peter – as always thanks

 

Mark - thanks as well - your work is so excellent happy that you like how this bit of the build is looking

 

Richard – so glad that you dropped by and are again working with your awesome Bluenose - thanks for the kind words.

 

--------------------------------------

 

It’s been quite a while since I’ve posted an update.

Started work detailing the carriages. Short text - images have some notations.

 

Thanks so much for your still continued interest in this very “slow boat to China” build log.

 

Enjoy your year-end holidays….

 

Cheers,

 

[fmodajr]

Hi Michael,

I hope all is well.

Wow! Loads of detail on those cannon.

Well done!

 

Frank

 

[md1400cs]

Thanks Frank,

 

Enjoy your year end holidays

 

Cheers,

 

[Old Collingwood]

This  is  looking so  Superb   -  keep  going  my friend.

 

OC.

[md1400cs]

OC. thanks as always - happy that you dropped by as well.

 

-- Been much away from the shipyard as well as from home base for a while;

 

I did finally, however, finish stropping the many lines for the gun carriages. My recent focus was for the ten main deck larger carriages. Here are a few images - Next up is securely positioning the carriages then attaching all lines. Then onto the hull gun doors - I think??

Again thanks for your visit - this log is a real slow one indeed.

 

Cheers,

 

 

 

 

Edited February 19 by md1400cs