Flying Fish by Keithbrad80 - Model Shipways - 1:96

[Keithbrad80]

Hello everyone, 

 

I had some time this morning to work on the windlass. I’m not sure why but I just couldn’t seem to get the windlass right on my lathe, either I would break it or the dimensions were off. The goal for myself was to try my best to make everything for this build by hand, but I decided I’m going to use the cast one that comes with the kit. I spent some time cleaning up the casting marks and it honestly didnt look to bad, I am disappointed I couldn’t figure out a solution for this but after painting I was happy with the cast version. I was honestly surprised when I dry fit the windlass under the forecastle because I didn’t put the dimensions of the cast windlass into consideration when constructing the forecastle, but the fit was very tight. Now that the windlass is installed, I’ll starting working on the two water closets forward of the main deck cabin. I decided the best way for me to do this, was to use basswood blocks. Ill carve them to fit and then plank the outside like I did with the main deck house, hopefully these don’t take me a month to build lol. I did just buy one of Chucks, Royal Barge kits so I’m sure that will delay construction even more! Thanks again for stoping by. 

 

 

Bradley 

[gak1965]

Hi Brad,

     For my future reference was the fit tight vertically, horizontally, or both? Either way, looking great!

Edited February 23, 2021 by gak1965

[Keithbrad80]

9 hours ago, gak1965 said:

Hi Brad,

     For my future reference was the fit tight vertically, horizontally, or both? Either way, looking great!

It was tight vertically, which is what I was hoping would happen. If you don’t rebuild the forecastle it should be at the height needed already. 
 

Bradley

[gak1965]

Hi Brad, haven't seen an update in a couple of weeks. How is everything going?

 

George K

[Keithbrad80]

7 hours ago, gak1965 said:

How is everything going?

Things are going good. I started another model that took up some time, then work got crazy and I haven’t been able to do anything... Im away from home for the next week so hopefully I can find a few days to get some stuff done when I get back. Your build is looking really great btw!

 

Bradley

[rwiederrich]

Anything new....

 

Rob

[Keithbrad80]

I wish... 

 

Work really picked up then a friend approached me about starting a new business so that’s what I have been doing... Knowing I wasn’t going to have time to work on any thing for the foreseeable future I had to pack everything up to keep it safe, while I enjoy my work I do wish I had more time to enjoy my hobby. One day I’ll get back to it and finish the flying fish. It’s packed away very nicely with all the parts and plans there with it so one day I can just jump right back in it. I still find time to visit the site almost daily but one day I’ll be back in full swing! Thanks for checking in btw. 

 

Bradley

[Nirvana]

Bradley,  it's to bad when work takes your time away from recreational hobby. Hope to see you back at the FF very soon.

[ERS Rich]

Takin’ care of business!  Good to hear and best of luck.

[gak1965]

Good luck Brad, I wish you all the best in your new efforts!

[bhermann]

Bradley

 

I have enjoyed reading through your log to date and will be following along when you are able to get back to her.  This is some really fine and well thought out work you have been doing!

 

Bob

[Jared]

On 1/15/2021 at 1:21 AM, Keithbrad80 said:

My only issue is I cant find any illustrations or plates that show where to tie off the pull cord. It’s not mentioned in any of the instructions or plans. I’m thinking about drilling a small hole in the spray rail and tying it off to a small eyelid on the back side? I’m not sure how that would look

 

Bradley 

I too have been struggling with what to do with the anchor release pull cord.   There seems to be very little info on this on the internet. 
 

The only thing I have to go on are 2 photos I took in 2016 of the Curry Sarks cathead and a description of that ships anchor release gear on pages 172 and 173 of Longridge’s “The Curry Sark” book. These show that ship’s release mechanism includes a stout metal shaft that passes through the bulwarks at the front of the catheads.   I will follow this design on my FF, given the lack of any other info., using a pull rope rather than a stiff rod. 
 

I am finding you build log very helpful. 

Edited August 29, 2021 by Jared
Correction

[ClipperFan]

Bradley,

If you're one of the folks following our exhaustive research into the accurate structure of Donald McKay's final Medium Clipper "GLORY of the SEAS" you'll know we've been given access to some incredibly sharp pics of the ship herself. These amazing photos, shared by eminent author Michael Mjelde have given us some keen insight into these beautiful Clippers. I hope you don't mind my sharing some of these insights with you, in order to assist you in creating a more accurate "Flying Fish" model.

The first image is an actual tracing of McKay's own "Flying Fish" lines, believe it or not, residing in a museum in Norway!

 

Edited November 24, 2021 by ClipperFan
better image

[ClipperFan]

Bradley, probably one of the more significant discoveries about the arrangement of the large rear 'Carriage' house is that, as the Stern of the ship narrows, so too does the shape of the house to configure with it. I've drawn a scale sketch of this area to highlight how the catwalks on both sides remain constant while the house gets narrower. This contradicts the MSW plans.

[ClipperFan]

George who's also building the "Flying Fish" expressed disappointment with the kit supplied figurehead. Here's an alternate, far more realistic Flying Fish figurehead. It has always been a pet peeve of mine that every model I've seen of this vessel only features the bare Stem while omitting substantial Naval Hoods and Cutwater which she would have been equipped with too. Here's how these nautical devices would have mounted to the Stem. This sketch is just to illustrate how these devices would have interacted but isn't truly to scale. I'm printing out Bow close ups and will create a more accurate to scale version. Meanwhile, the highly detailed Bow of Glory, courtesy of Michael Mjelde shows how her prow actually appeared.

[ClipperFan]

Bradley, another area of dispute I have with the kit plan is a quite plain front fascia of her Rear Carriage House with a sole horizontal port window. Compare it to the far more ornate front fascia with dual arched windows on either side of what appear to be dual doors of the same Carriage House of "Flying Fish" as depicted in the famous painting of her by James E Buttersworth. His stunning oil was commissioned by her owners Sampson & Tappan of Boston in a truly unique celebration. It was done to forever commemorate "Flying Fish" achieving a stunning First Place Finish in the 1853 "Great Deep Sea Derby" wherein she out raced 14 other 'crack' Extreme Clippers including two other McKay vessels! 

I've included a couple of Michael Mjelde images of the real front fascia of "GLORY of the SEAS" which confirms that these larger arched 2' × 1& 1/2' windows were indeed used on board. Michael Mjelde's own sketch of Glory's front fascia is included to give you an idea of how truly ornate these vessels actually were.

 

[ClipperFan]

Bradley,

Jared, who's also building Flying Fish is the reason I'm sharing more info on how to avoid the issues he's run into. When it comes to making the solid tops, your MSW plans are wrong. In two significan ways. The lubber's hole on real ships is much larger and longer, whereas the ones on your plans are way too small. Trestletrees blend neatly with the curved front of the solid top, instead of projecting out awkwardly like the plan Jared shares. Here's photographic proof from 3 vessels: clipper ship Glory of the Seas, Whaler Charles W Morgan, Frigate USS Constitution "Old Ironsides." Last 2 pics are what not to do, from Jared's post. I've already shared these images with him to hopefully get him straightened out. ironically, properly recreating this section will make it easier to rig your shrouds too. You're doing a remarkable job. It's never my intent to criticize anyone's work. I'm just doing my best to provide historically accurate information to aid in your recreations.

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  I see in the historic photo the nice, large lubber hole ... AND that there are fairleads very close to it, so the control lines from above will pass down inside the "shed" between the shrouds coming up and the lines angling down from the lower deadeyes at the perimeter of the top.  This permits crew unobstructed passage up the ratlines of the shrouds and onto the ratlines of the futtock shrouds.