Medway Longboat 1742 1:24 scale by fnkershner

[fnkershner]

Here is a brief update. All frames have been glued properly and sanding has begun. After 2 hrs of sanding I have almost completed 1 side. I should also mention that Ryland suggested these nail files - 1 is 400/600 grit & the other is 220/320. I could not find them in a smaller quantity that 50 for each size. I have found the very useful. I had been using the larger one in the pictures but these are better. I am also using the sanding stick for the tight corners.

 

 

[Chuck]

That looks so much better !!!  Nice fix.   Just slow down and take your time with each step.   With the planking especially....each strake is its own project.  Bend and twist them until you get a good fit.  No gaps!!!

 

Chuck

[Ryland Craze]

The frames and keel look great, way better than your first attempt.  It was well worth the time you spent to correct the prior issues.  Just take Chuck's advice and you will do fine.  I found my nail files in assorted grits at Sally Beauty Supply and have seen them in Walmart and Target in the beauty section.

[fnkershner]

Ok I have hit another snag. Things were going so well. I have completed the fairing on the port side and more than 1/2 on the starboard side. The tip of Frame 6 has broken off. See the Picture below. This is the 6th frame from the bow. So I expect it is Frame "F" as in Floyd F*ed up. I will continue to fair the rest of the starboard side. But this will require more Acetone to remove and replace this frame.

 

Ok now that I have cooled off from this major disaster. I took a closer look at the situation. It is Frame "C" not F. And it broke right at the join between the first & second part of the frame. As you can see the fairing is almost done and this frame has been faired. So here is my question - If I glue this piece back and if I use some small scrap to reinforce the join. Will it be in a location where it will show? I am sure that once there is planking in place it will be sturdy enough that it could be ok. Maybe not even use any scrap? I am not exactly excited about the prospect of removing and replacing this frame. As you can see I have what approximates a scarf joint. Please share your insight.

[BobG]

1 hour ago, fnkershner said:

If I glue this piece back and if I use some small scrap to reinforce the join.

I've had good luck with gluing small, broken pieces back on by using just a tiny dab of medium viscosity CA. I've been able to glue pieces like that and even been able to sand them afterwards. Just sand gently if you need to sand the glued on piece. 

[Ryland Craze]

Floyd, I am sure that you are not the first modeler to break a frame when fairing a Medway Longboat.  The frame broke at a place where it will be visible on the inside of the hull.  The break is about one plank width above the top of the floorboard.  If you decide that you will repair this frame, this is how I would do it.  I would first take some wax paper and place it on the laser cut seam of the frame center where the breaks occurred.  It looks like you may be able to slide some wax paper in the seam under the section of the center frame where the floor and top timber are joined together right at the break.  This should keep the removable part of the frame from being glued to the actual frame.  Next, I would glue the broken frame where the breaks occurred, both top and bottom.  Then I would glue some scrap pieces of wood on both sides of the top of the frame (side closest to the build board) to reinforce the frame where the break occurred, similar to the reinforcement you did for the single frames.  This should be covered up by the cap rail later in the build and not visible.

 

This repaired frame will be very fragile but should hold the planking very well and should be almost invisible at the break.  Just remember that you will need to fair the inside of the hull once the frame centers are removed, so go lightly on fairing this frame.  This is a minor setback as we all have had something like this happen to us.  You will get it fixed and continue on with this build.

[JeffT]

It happens , I did the same thing. Maybe more than once 😬

[Justin P.]

I suspect Ill join the cohort of those who've snapped one of those frames as well!   If you don't mind Ill follow along!

[fnkershner]

Thanks to all for your response. And again Ryland you are my main man . You gave me the info I needed. First off I had forgotten about sanding the interior. But I agree with I am going to attempt a repair. If the repair fails I will have to replace the frame. I was going to have to do that anyway. But I will wait for Chuck's sage advice. I also thank you for the info that the break is above the floor. That is a key piece of info I needed.

 

Justin you are very welcome to follow. I promise you that I am going to make more mistakes than anyone here.

[Chuck]

Thats the way to go.  Just add a few drops of CA to the breaks and let it dry thoroughly.  It will hold just fine.  Reinforce the top edge only.  I would even go as far to say that you wont need to reinforce it. But if you do,  place a scrap piece on the top edge only.  When I say the top edge I mean on the top edge of the sheer.  Not on the sides of the break.  It will hold fine until you plank it.  If you want to reinforce the middle break just add some tape on the one side.  The whole length of the frame.  Even where the laser cut seam is between the frame and the center which you will remove later.  
 

Once planked you can remove the tape before you start breaking away the fame centers.
 

just remember to be gentle and not use sandpaper that is too course when fairing.

[fnkershner]

Ok thanks Chuck. And please excuse my frantic message to you. I was using 220 grit. But I think I hit it with the end of my sanding stick.

[fnkershner]

I want to thank everyone who has expressed an interest in my build. We really have a great group that works hard to support each other. I wanted to post just a brief update. In the picture below you will see the results of the repair. And I am happy to report that Fairing is complete. All Laser char is gone. Tomorrow it is on to chapter 2.

 

 

[Chuck]

That is looking good.

[Ryland Craze]

The repair and fairing look good.  I know you are looking forward to moving on with the build.

[gjdale]

Nice job on the repair Floyd. Fairing also looks great. Looking forward to seeing you tackle the planking now.

[Nirvana]

Nice repair job, I am glad you overcame that issue. Looks very good!

[fnkershner]

Ok now I an asking for more advice. Please see picture below. I should mention that at first I did not understand the concept or purpose of lining off before planking. So I purchased the narrowest art tape I could find, this was 1/32" wide. Now that I have reached this point in the build. I find that the tape is too narrow to get good adhesion. So I have used 1/16" wide and I purchased 1/8" just in case.

 

Now to my problem. I followed Chuck's guidance religiously but it appears I have made tick marks for 10 planks instead of 9. So do I start over with the paper strips or do I take advantage of pre-spiled planks and just start planking.  I have learned the value of this process and will now use it in future builds.

 

Additional question - What size of drill bit did anyone use in the planks for the Trenailing? 

 

 

[steamschooner]

Floyd, I count 9 planks counting the garboard the way you have it lined off.  ?

[fnkershner]

If you look closely at the tick marks on the frames you will see that the tape strip next to the garboard is between 2 sets of tick marks. As I was lining things off I could see that it was not coming out right so I switched and started from the garboard and the next strip was just dividing the open space. It is definitely not correct. The width of those last 2 planks is way off.

[gjdale]

I think it would be worthwhile doing it again with the correct number of planks Floyd. Even if you don’t do that, at least use Chuck’s templates for the bow and stern - they provide a really good guide as to how you’re going as you progress with planking as they are based on his pre-cut planks.

 

Chuck mentions in the instructions that he used a #77 drill for the 10 lb monofilament on planks. He also notes that these represent iron nails in this boat, rather than treenails.

[Jim Rogers]

I would erase all the tick marks, attach the garboard plank, and then line off from there.

[fnkershner]

Thanks Jim I think that is a good idea. So Jim how long did you take to heat each plank? 3 to 4 min? Did you use a Heat gun or Hair dryer?

[Jim Rogers]

I use a clothes steamer. Need to cut a Shaper jig out of wood. No clue why the top photo rotated 180.

 

[fnkershner]

The use of this lining off process on this model is mostly an opportunity for Learning. I greatly appreciate Chuck giving us this chance to learn the process & backing up it with an almost fail proof solution.

 

So I would like to talk about this some more so I get the process down. Let's assume I am planking a different model that has not be designed by Chuck (they do exist!) First off how do I create the templates for the bow & stern when they are not provided by Chuck? Secondly how do I determine when I need a drop plank or steeler?

[fnkershner]

I just received my stand for this Model. Chuck this is such a simple but elegant design. I can't resist working on it while I work on the planking.

 

Quick question - Do you just put 2 or 3 coats of WOP after sanding the Laser char? I am curious how everyone finished their stand?

[fnkershner]

Here is my 2nd try 😅 I took Jim's suggestion (Jim I wish I was 1/2 the modeler you are. I loved visiting your Man cave) I think it came out much better. I also am getting the hang of the Heat gun. This is going to be a fun step.

[Jim Rogers]

That looks great! Good job.

[Ryland Craze]

That looks much better.  Glad to see the first planks on.

[fnkershner]

I am approx. 1/2 thru the planking. I have decided to drill the holes every 3 planks while I can still see the bulkheads. So are the holes supposed to go into the bulkheads? And what do you do where the butts of planks meet? The bulkhead is too narrow for 4 holes?

[Chuck]

I tried not to go through the frames too much.  Certainly not all the way through.  
 

For the butt joints I squeezed them in the best i could.  There are some that say the but joints would fall between frames and a backer block inserted between the frames to allow for nailing.  Rather than show this,  I just squeezed the nailing in best i could making them as shallow as I could just in case I mussed a frame.