BOB S. Posted November 29, 2020 Share #1 Posted November 29, 2020 I am a beginner and am a little confused. ... My kit directions specify using contact cement [super glue ?] but I find that it dries too fast sooo I am using "wood glue" [yellow glue ] . When I did the planking on the flat deck, I used the wood glue and clamped the planking. This seems to work fine. Is there any reason that I cannot continue to use "wood glue"???? I let it cure for at least 3 hours. HELP !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VTHokiEE Posted November 29, 2020 Share #2 Posted November 29, 2020 (edited) You most certainly can use wood glue (many do). I assume that the directions suggest super glue because it may be tricky to get the planks clamped in place while the glue dries. There is no real reason why you can’t use wood glue. Edited November 29, 2020 by VTHokiEE mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote Current Build: HM Sloop Echo 1781 (First Scratch Build) Previous Builds: HM Cutter Alert, Sharpie Schooner, Chesapeake Bay Flattie, Half-Hull (NRG) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rik Thistle Posted November 29, 2020 Share #3 Posted November 29, 2020 Hi Bob, White wood glue - Polyvinyl Acetate (PVA eg Titebond) is absolutely fine for deck and hull planking and takes a few minutes to 'grab' giving plenty time for adjustments. It sets hard in about 24 hrs. Some members occasionally use Super Glue (aka Cyanoacrylate, CA) for quick setting (10 secs?) joints on difficult hull planking, say. Super Glue Gel takes a little longer (30 secs?) to set so gives a little adjustment time. But CA does stick your fingers together! Contact Adhesive is used for sticking soles on shoes...it has a rubbery texture. I wouldn't use it for model ships. Here's a very good thread on glues ... https://modelshipworld.com/topic/1894-glue-recommendations/?tab=comments#comment-43667 regards, Richard mtaylor, Canute and RichardG 3 Quote Current build: U.S. Army K51 Radio Truck with K52 Trailer - 1944 - MiniArt - 1:35 Next build: PM Research Crank Shaper - late 1800s - 1:12 Part finished: HMS Flirt (MSE) - 1782 Vanguard Models - 1:64 Finished: Archer anti-tank gun Diorama - 1944 -Tamiya 1:35 : Churchill MkVII tank Diorama - Tamiya - 1:35 - 1944 : Sherman Firefly Tank Diorama - Revell - 1/76 - WWII : Humber MkII Scout Car Diorama - - Revell - 1:76 - WWII : PM Research Drill Press - 1895 - 1:12 : PM Research Milling Machine - late 1800s - 1:12 (est) : Stuart Engineering Lathe - late 1800s - 1:12 (est) : Stuart Beam model steam engine - 1770s onwards - 1:12 (est) : Stuart 10V model steam engine circa 1920s - 1:12 (est) : Lady Eleanor Fifie Circa 1900 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 : Dallas Cutter 1815 - Artesania Latina - 1:50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted November 29, 2020 Share #4 Posted November 29, 2020 I moved this to the correct area and deleted a duplicate post with no responces. Canute and Rik Thistle 2 Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allanyed Posted November 29, 2020 Share #5 Posted November 29, 2020 (edited) Carpenter's glue such as Titebond and other brands is what I have always used with success. For metal to wood, CA is OK but I prefer epoxy as it is not shear sensitive like cyanoacrylate glues. Allan Edited November 29, 2020 by allanyed mtaylor, Canute and Keithbrad80 3 Quote PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series. Click on http://trafalgar.tv There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time. THANK YOU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keithbrad80 Posted November 30, 2020 Share #6 Posted November 30, 2020 Wood glue has an excellent bond and therefore makes a great glue! You may find that using wood glue on planking can be tricky if you have a really tight spot to plank. In that case CA works well as described above. Good luck! Bradley mtaylor 1 Quote Current Builds: Flying Fish - Model Shipways - 1:96 Future Builds: Young America 1853 - Scratch Build - 1:72 Completed Builds: HMS Racehorse - Mantua - 1:47 (No pictures unfortunately) Providence Whale Boat - Artesania Latina - 1:25 (Also no pictures) Lowell Grand Banks Dory - Model Shipways - 1:24 Shelved Builds: Pride of Baltimore 2 - Model Shipways - 1:64 (Also no pictures) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thistle17 Posted November 30, 2020 Share #7 Posted November 30, 2020 (edited) I would just add another alternative. I have become quite fond of DAP Rapid Fuse Adhesive. I would characterize it as a CA adhesive but it has one useful capability that others do not have. A plank can be lifted within 30 seconds of application and relaid once again w/o more CA. I found this useful if I didn't get quite the plank to plank abutting that was needed. I have even pulled planks off completely, sanded the CA side and bulkheads (once dry) and reapplied them without incident. The adhesive bonds wood to ABS or similar "plastics". It sets after 30 seconds and cures in about 30 minutes. Joe Edited November 30, 2020 by Thistle17 Rik Thistle, Canute and mtaylor 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rik Thistle Posted November 30, 2020 Share #8 Posted November 30, 2020 DAP Rapid Fuse Adhesive. Thanks for the heads up. Doesn't seem it is easily available in the UK ...well, not without £15 delivery charge on the £17 bottle...gulp.... https://www.amazon.co.uk/DAP-00157-Adhesive-Building-Material/dp/B01DA6X1OC I notice some Amazon Customer Reviews warning to wear gloves since it is extra super sticky...which all CA glues tend to be anyway. I've added it to my Wishlist and will watch for it becoming a free delivery Prime item 😉 Richard Canute, Ron Burns, mtaylor and 1 other 4 Quote Current build: U.S. Army K51 Radio Truck with K52 Trailer - 1944 - MiniArt - 1:35 Next build: PM Research Crank Shaper - late 1800s - 1:12 Part finished: HMS Flirt (MSE) - 1782 Vanguard Models - 1:64 Finished: Archer anti-tank gun Diorama - 1944 -Tamiya 1:35 : Churchill MkVII tank Diorama - Tamiya - 1:35 - 1944 : Sherman Firefly Tank Diorama - Revell - 1/76 - WWII : Humber MkII Scout Car Diorama - - Revell - 1:76 - WWII : PM Research Drill Press - 1895 - 1:12 : PM Research Milling Machine - late 1800s - 1:12 (est) : Stuart Engineering Lathe - late 1800s - 1:12 (est) : Stuart Beam model steam engine - 1770s onwards - 1:12 (est) : Stuart 10V model steam engine circa 1920s - 1:12 (est) : Lady Eleanor Fifie Circa 1900 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 : Dallas Cutter 1815 - Artesania Latina - 1:50 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thistle17 Posted November 30, 2020 Share #9 Posted November 30, 2020 (edited) I guess I should have mentioned that the DAP product seems to sand easier and leaves no trace when one has to overcoat with either paint or finish. The manufacturer does stress that a minimal amount of adhesive is all that is necessary. I use the small but effective loop adhesive applicators that fit in an Xacto holder and that minimizes most all application problems. There are always caveats aren't there? Joe Edited December 2, 2020 by Thistle17 mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Pellett Posted November 30, 2020 Share #10 Posted November 30, 2020 The PVA glues are nearly odorless and at least in my case using them causes no side effects. CA glues cause a nasty sinus reaction. mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottpollack Posted December 14, 2020 Share #11 Posted December 14, 2020 I am a furniture maker as well as a modeler. A glue that I find highly useful is liquid hide glue. Titebond has a great product and the most useful things about this glue is 1. It has a longer set up time for complicated applications and it's completely reversible with moist heat. Meaning if planks or whatever don't align correctly, lay a hot moist towel over the joint and it will come apart. And 2. Hide glue sticks to and dissolves onto itself so you don't need to sand away old glue and alter the shape of a joint. It may not be practical for the entire ship but it's uses do have their place mtaylor 1 Quote current build : model shipways willie bennett " Never make a promise that you can't keep , a man's word is his honor" Scott I Pollack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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