King of the Mississippi by Adrieke - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:80 - with LED lighting

[Adrieke]

thanks  Sjors

 

I have some ideas for a jig but not the skill to build it

[Adrieke]

slowly adding more details :

railings around staircase, benches , kitchen smokestacks, walkway

 

when all that is done I will varnish the top two decks

 

fitted the brass rings and eyebolts to the first smoke stack and repainted it

 

[robert1965]

Looks good the details on the schip, very nice

[Piet]

Hello Adriaan,

 

If you have not yet "invented' a fixture to shape your dowels perhaps I have a very simple and cheap way to do that.  The whole purpose is to prevent the dowel from whipping about and to give it support at the loose end.

 

When I had to make the masts for my VOC ship I used a plastic or nylon cutting board and drilled a hole in it slightly larger then the dowel.  This I clamped into a bench vice and chucked the dowel into my drill press.  I positioned the vice with the cutting board under the dowel and raised the drill press table up until the dowel was in the hole.  Next I clamped the vice to the drill press table and had at it.  I could have held on to the vice with one hand and use the other with a sanding block but I like to use both hands.

 

You can make a similar jig with your hand drill on a table or work bench.  Just align your cutting board support in a vice, or your even your hand, so that the dowel will fit nice and loosely in the hole.  Turn the drill motor on low to see how it behaves and when you have enough confidence in it working increase the drill speed and have at it.  

If the cutting board is narrow enough to hold it comfortably by hand you have enough control to make it work for yo.

 

The whole object is to support the loose end of the dowel and this will work.

 

Cheers,

 

[Adrieke]

that sounds easy to do Piet. i might give that a try for when i have to taper the ones for the GF

[Shazmira]

Piet, could you attach a picture of your fix...I would be very interested in seeing what you have described before I need to taper the masts for my current build

[Piet]

Hello Robbin and Adriaan and others if interested,

 

Yes, of course I'll recreate my set-up for yuns    Give me some time like a day or two, I have something else going that takes priority.

I'll just use my small drill press but the principle should work for even a Dremmel set-up.

 

Cheers,

[Shazmira]

I will wait patiently, I think this would be helpful to many here who do not have a lathe

[JPett]

Me too

[Piet]

Hello Adriaan and Robbyn and J. Pett and whomever 

 

It's now Friday afternoon in sunny or kinda partly sunny, Palm Coast, Florida.  Lunch is done with, mail has been looked at and It's time to share a few pics of my el cheapo spar sanding jig.  First thing this morning I was hunting for my old jig but that proved fruitless so I made a new one just for yuns   

 

I also drafted the Admiral, my dear bride Gwen of now close to 51 years of putting up with me to take a few action shots.  Naturally she asked many questions and I was obliged to answer them.  Hey, her dad retired as captain with the KPM   

 

Okay here goes and remember that this can be adapted for use on large drilling machines down to the Dremmel.  

 

An old nylon kitchen cutting board.  Pic taken after I already cut a small part out, an afterthought.

 

This is the small part I cut out from the cutting board and already drilled a few holes in it.  Make the holes a little oversize from the dowel(s) you are using for the masts and or spars. 

 

Here a test dowel is chucked in the Jacobs chuck.  Be gentle with tightening your dowel.  I used my nice and sturdy drill press vice to give me something solid and for clamping it to the drill press table. 

 

Here I have clamped the small nylon piece in the vice making sure it's kinda, sorta square to the dowel.  It really doesn't matter too much because of the slightly oversize hole.

 

Here I have positioned the vice with the nylon thingy under the dowel ready to raise the table up and engage the dowel into the nylon thingy. 

 

Here I have raised the drill press table up and the dowel fits nice and loosely in the hole.

 

These are two examples of my sanding blocks.  As you can see they are home made.  The large one has a course grit sandpaper on it and the small one has 360 grit sandpaper for finishing.  I find that using a long sanding block gives you better control and handle.  The large one is very good for fairing ribs or bulkheads.

 

To be continued on next post.

 

Cheers,

[mtaylor]

Piet,

 

If you get a chance, could you post this jig in the Tool Making and Jigs area http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/forum/17-wooden-tips-and-tricks-and-making-jigs/???   I think it would be good for others to see.

[Piet]

Continuation of mast / spar sanding jig.

 

I am using the larger sanding block with course sandpaper and one handed too   All the way on the right bottom of the pic you can just make out one of the clamps I used to secure the vice to the drill press table.  This way we can use one hand for the sanding.  Don't use too much pressure on the dowel, especially when sanding thin dowels.  Also, the speed should not be too high, there is no need for that.  Let the sandpaper do the work - - - gently, take your time and use a dust mask!!  When you approach the end of your spar, which is now very thin you'll have to switch over to fine sandpaper and finish it off.  Frequent measuring in between is also advisable, this also gives the wood and the nylon a chance to cool down some.  You can now also cut off the thicker portion of the dowel that's inside the nylon thingy and drill or use a small hole to continue or use the hand-held method shown further down.   All of this may take some getting used to but after a few you'll get the hang of it.  You can also use a a piece of sandpaper hand-held between fingers and thumb, if you dare of course 

 

A demo in using the small sanding block for the finishing touch but hand-held sanding works also.

 

For demo purposes I am now not using the nylon jig thingy but when you do this you MUST back-up the sanding block with a piece of hardwood.  If you don't your dowel will brake at the drill chuck.  And again, don't use much pressure on the dowel when sanding.  I found that making a groove in the back-up block helps in keeping the dowel centered to the drill chuck.  Here hand-held sanding works really well but it gets pretty warm though, you'll quickly find that you'll have to easy off in between applying pressure. 

 

I apologize for the fuzzy pic, I moved my hand but you get the idea.  I am showing a hand-held method with a portable drill motor.  I didn't show it clamped here but you understand that you MUST secure your drill motor.  Set the drill motor speed to medium, not too fast and not too slow.

 

Before we switch on the drill motor with a preset speed, we slide the nylon thingy onto the dowel and position your hand FIRMLY to the table or board and switch on the drill motor.  You may be apprehensive or afraid in doing this but believe me, the dowel will automatically seek equilibrium and directs your hand to center itself.  Now with your free hand you can gently use your favorite sanding block and let the dust fly      with a dust mask on, please.

 

The whole purpose is to support your dowel at the opposite end from your drill motor or drill press.  When taper sanding small spars, where the ends are very small, like 1 mm perhaps, you may have to drill a small hole in the nylon thingy to support that small end.  After a while of doing this you'll get the hang of it and produce spars by the dozen     Hmmmm, maybe I'll go into business making spars - - - not 

I hope this method works well for you as it did for me.  Now I better put that small nylon jig thingy in a safe place where I can find it because I have a bunch of spars to make for my neglected VOC ship.

 

Cheers,

[Piet]

Hello Mark,

 

Yes, will do.  I can copy - past this entire section.  It'll be tomorrow evening though before I get to it.

 

Cheers,

[Shazmira]

Piet, thank you soooo much for that tutorial...such an easy fix really but brilliant way to re-purpose some old cutting board. I can't wait to try that now!!!

[JPett]

Ahoy Piet

 

Thank you, excellent idea

 

If you do post it as Mark has asked please send me a link so I can include it in my Tips thread.

 

Thank you too Adrieke for making/letting this happen

 

Cool beans

[Adrieke]

Thanks Piet

 

I was thinking of something much more complex , this is easy and can be used by anyone

[Piet]

Happy to oblige and glad it's useful to all yuns ship builders.

 

Cheers, 

[robert1965]

another small update 

 

fitted the first two curved railings . they where a bit awkward as the head posts have different angles there but I think I got them pretty ok. will se when the glue dries

 

DSCN0447.JPG

 

 

Adrieke could tell you what kind of glue you've used for gluing the railing?  :mellow:

[Adrieke]

Robert

I use the standard white wood glue to fix the wooden parts to the posts and CA to fix the bras railing parts to the wooden parts

[robert1965]

Robert

I use the standard white wood glue to fix the wooden parts to the posts and CA to fix the bras railing parts to the wooden parts

 

Thanks 

[Adrieke]

last night when i was working on the last stairs i realised that i made a mistake

 

the top walk way at the steering cabin (the diveboard) inst sticking out enough so the ladder was against the 3rd deck . that wouldnt have been an issue but the

 

handrails wouldt be on the edge anymore (i ll explain better when iupload the picture)

 

so i had to remove the whole top assembly (all is stil intact) and ladder

 

i am repositioning the feet so it will sit properly this time

[Adrieke]

ok here before correcting the mistake

 

you can see that the outside of the ladder is flush with the top walkway but not with the bottom one

the handrail going up would be on an angle if I left like that

 

with the diving board extended more the ladder is not flush with the top walkway leaving room for the handrails witch will be straight now

[Piet]

Hi Andriaan, good catch and good fix.  It's all part of the fun 

 

Cheers,

[dragzz]

well there vary nice work yes adrieke  i took some needed time off my paddle boat i will get back to it real soon  p.s keep up the great work

[Adrieke]

thanks dragzz

 

finished the walkway to the steering cabin

 

all that is left now is to drill the holes for the eyebolts for the cabling that secures the smoke stacks

then I will varnish the decks

 

after that :

 

steam stacks (4 off them)

poles that hold up the first deck

2 masts

walkway

capstan

railings

 

almost

[robert1965]

Look's really good Adrieke.

[sudomekh]

Adrieke! Sorry! Everything is fine, but the stairs and railings would like to see more subtle, more elegant

[Adrieke]

thanks Robert

 

thanks sudomekh. the stairs and railings are done according to the manual. all I will do is sand and clean up a bit

[sudomekh]

not always trust ... instructions ... see more old photos, drawings from the archives and their artistic taste )))

[Shazmira]

Almost there Adriaan, soo close now, and she is turning into a real beauty!