Condorcet by Spooky spoon - HobbyBoss - 1/350 - PLASTIC

[Veszett Roka]

As RGL well said above. Rust is always near hinges (gunport doors, deck hatches etc.) and chains. Anchor beds were always full of rust, just like hawse pipes. Rust dust can accumulate in the corners which was washed out by sea later, so drain holes are prominent points.

[Canute]

Check photos of your subject. Black and white or color.Sometimes the B&W photos show the wear and tear better.

[Spooky spoon]

I’ll add some around doors and hatches too then

[Spooky spoon]

A preview of what I'll be up to next.  I think Prinz Eugen will be first.  I buy too many kits.

[Old Collingwood]

4 hours ago, Spooky spoon said:

A preview of what I'll be up to next.  I think Prinz Eugen will be first.  I buy too many kits.

Deffo.

 

OC.

[Spooky spoon]

Should I add a coat of acrylic clear to the hull before I continue weathering?  I'm worried that the enamel thinner will blur the streaking I've done

[RGL]

I never do if using enamels on acrylics 

[Spooky spoon]

Did some rust, the colour was a lot brighter than I anticipated, so I may tone it down with some darker tones later.  I also continued working on the pe. 

[Louie da fly]

Actually, that rust looks very good in the photo. But it might look different in real life, so you might be right in wanting to tone it down.

 

Maybe leave it for a few days and come back to it with new eyes - you might find you like it after all.

 

Steven

[RGL]

Yeah nice, rustier the better 

[Veszett Roka]

Actually the rust looks very good. I dont think you need to darken it. 

[Canute]

Rust exists in multiple shades. Fresh rust is almost orange and darkens as the iron continues to oxidize. This just looks fresh; like Greg said, rustier is better. Multiple shades. 😀

[Spooky spoon]

I made some very minor changes to the largest rust streak, and added some green and brown oil paints around the waterline.  Unless there’s something I missed, I think I’m done this side 

[Louie da fly]

Obviously there's no defaulters on this ship - otherwise that rust would have been chipped off and painted over . . . 

 

Steven

[Spooky spoon]

I am about to build my first pe ladder

 

[Spooky spoon]

after some fiddling around with it, I have determined that my tweezers are too thick to bend the rungs of the ladder.  Are there any good pairs of modelling tweezers you would recommend?

[Canute]

Check the Tamiya line. They make a number of tweezers.

[Spooky spoon]

Oven started painting up all the various bits that go on the deck, as well as some of the superstructure.  It went pretty well, although there are some visible gaps, as the parts did always fit on correctly.  My main concern now is the rear turret, there

doesn't seem to be room for it to fit on properly.  Maybe finding a way to boost it

up a couple millimetres would help.

[lmagna]

Rather than raising the turret I think I would be more inclined to shorten the front face of the main cabin just behind. Should be able to do that without being able to see it after it's done. Even your close up shots are looking quite nice.

[Spooky spoon]

I managed to sort out the rear turret, which I have dry fitted to the deck, along with the front superstructure 

[RGL]

Looking great 

[Spooky spoon]

So far my first attempt at doing a pe railing has not gone well at all.  It has been bent quite a lot, and I’m not sure how to deal with this.  I have tried to straighten it out, but to no avail.  Perhaps I could leave this railing off.

[lmagna]

Perhaps you will end up with some spare railing when the build is done and can use that to try a fresh install.

[Veszett Roka]

3 hours ago, Spooky spoon said:

So far my first attempt at doing a pe railing has not gone well at all.  It has been bent quite a lot, and I’m not sure how to deal with this.

I think this is still usable. Lot of tiny adjustments though. In general sense, fix the bent edge (i using a small vise for this) and carefully pull the other end with pliers. To bend the railing to shape you must use a roller. Hint video here, but i'd recommend to watch this out - many how-to can be seen there, however this Korean guy is a genius, and what seems so easy for him not so obvious for me

[RGL]

Nah it’s stuffed. Get yourself a set of jewellers mandrels, they are cheap and will last for ever. I use them all the time and they are 90% cheaper than the PE Rollers 

[Spooky spoon]

5 hours ago, RGL said:

Nah it’s stuffed. Get yourself a set of jewellers mandrels, they are cheap and will last for ever. I use them all the time and they are 90% cheaper than the PE Rollers 

what size should I look for?

[Spooky spoon]

9 hours ago, lmagna said:

Perhaps you will end up with some spare railing when the build is done and can use that to try a fresh install.

hopefully they'll leave me some extra.  At least the bit I messed up was reasonably small 

[Spooky spoon]

I’ve done a little more work on the masts, but some of the mast tips have become bent, as the plastic is extremely thin.  I’ve been looking for brass replacements but haven’t found any yet.  I’ll leave the masts off until the end, in the hopes that I can find suitable replacements.

[Spooky spoon]

On 7/21/2022 at 3:38 AM, RGL said:

Nah it’s stuffed. Get yourself a set of jewellers mandrels, they are cheap and will last for ever. I use them all the time and they are 90% cheaper than the PE Rollers 

would this be suitable?

[Spooky spoon]

I have done some more superstructure.  I have decided to leave any railings that require  curving off for the present.