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Rebuilding the fleet by mikegr - 1/700 - restoring old plastic models


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So I poured the resin. The intention was to form a light-medium wave. I used a hair dryer to form the waves. It was a bit early and resin wasnt thick yet so I spilled some, making a mess on the base. After some time using the gun up and down I let it rest. I repeated the process until the epoxy has thickened to the point that was stable even when i used the dryer almost touching the base.

Next morning I discovered that epoxy was back 90% in the original form.  Even looked solid while blowing it probably the slow curing time prevent it from holding its shape😕.  Having no other option I used medium gel to make a bit rough sea. I have used it in the past and concluded that this reduces the resin transparency, which I don't like.

So while I was satisfied with the model built regarding the time spent, the sea base was just a repeat of a previous attempt with nothing new to offer. 

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Edited by mikegr
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While the sea state did not work out like you intended  I still think it looks quite nice and realistic. Many of the pictures of ships in the South Pacific especially in the Dutch East Indies look very much the same, (Except they are in black and white of course).

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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I finished the model by making a plexiglass case as usual. For conviniency roof will be made with 0.5mm PVC. They do great job protecting the model from dust but they occupy more space. Seems I am having problem already with about 25 more to rebuild plus  some dozens to build from the start.

Last month I received a message from a silent follower. He had some spare parts for 1/700 ships and instead of selling them on eBay for a few bucks he offered to ship them overseas to my door. To unfamiliar persons this looks like a scrap pile but for us may be a little treasure. And a boost for my effort.  A big thanks for the follower.

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Νext Project: Hikawa Maru by Hasewaga.

Before i go on, a small correction: Previous model IJN Taiyo was by Aoshima not Tamiya.

 

Both Taiyo and Hikawa Maru share the same hull design. The latter has an interesting story, built as a cruise liner, Japanese liners were not that famous as western builds. She was converted to a hospital ship. I was suprised to find out that she is a museum ship i n Yokohama.

 

Now the model. At the time was built i had in mind to convert her in seaplane carrier thus the AA armament. There was a rear deck made by an expired credit card (!), cranes and seaplanes but they are missing. After some consideration i decided to built it as it looks today, a liner museum ship since there is good amount of pictures and plans available unlike Taiyo

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As I was searching some plans I noticed the bow was quite different than it should be. I considered it as a model fault so I cut it and tried to make a new one shaping some wood. Then while a friend called and ask some info on painting a Fletcher, I researched my instruction sheets which I have kept for years. To my surprise I found out that the kit was not Hikawa Maru but Yawata Maru by Aoshima, a cargo liner converted to Unyo, the sister ship of previous built, Taiyo.

Under these circumstances a conversion would be out of question. I put it aside for experimental purposes and proceed with a more classic built, HMS Rodney by Tamiya.

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I was thinking that this is one of the least damaged models while an accidentall fall caused some breaks.

The paint  is in great condition the challenge would be to match the color with the added parts so I skip repaint.

The PE parts are for the "Nelson Class" which means they include 40mm aa guns which Rodney never received. J will use some of them, railings and whatever I could find on my spare parts stash.

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Ι scratch built the upper part of the rear mast. Since I don't have soldering skills yet I made it in 3 parts. At the 2 joints,  the vertical masts are glued. This, will offer some extra strength required for the rigging tension. As extra precaution I will use stretched sprue instead of elastic thread.

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Edited by mikegr
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I have started upgrading the bridge. Did some scratch built, added PE and replaced some moulded aa guns with separate ones. I lost two rangefinder antennas during process so no PE set for the rear ones. I think I will start assembly my next model on the floor.

I found an easier way of bending PE precisely. I draw the lines of the piece on a paper then I bent the part according to the line. Wherever this is applicable though.

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On 2/14/2022 at 6:41 PM, CDW said:

It must be a tricky proposition removing the glued on superstructure pieces from the decks after all these years. Nice work!

Don't see this class of ship modeled too often.

Indeed not much building info about it online, even its an old but decent for the price, kit.

 

I have finished the replacement of barrels. I drilled anchor chain holes and replaced davits, some from my stash, some scratch built by copper wire

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I have added some details. Ladders, drilled holes,doors, remake the crane wirring. Also from my newly refreshed stash I put some extra life rafts with good detail. Paint them was tricky I hold them with one pin in place while paint them with a single brush hair.

Finally I may need some extra hull for my heavy seas display so I made one from polystyrene. It is not perfect but its more than enough as most of it will remain hidden

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  • 2 weeks later...

I built the base. Styrofoam glued on MDF to eliminate warp. I cut waves then added few layers of toilet paper and diluted PVA glue. Then I decided to use plaster to smooth the surface. First attempt this way. I formed the wakes with acrylic putty applied with gun. Then filled the space between wakes and hull with gel to give a rougher surface.

Tomorrow I try airbrush paint and apply medium gel before going for final details

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So I gave it a color of dark ocean blue, then air sprayed with white. I use thick acrylic for painting so I need to expertise a lot about how to thinner it and enable for a regular paint flow. Then I used sponge shocked in white to paint the "nerves" between the two waves

Then disaster strikes. Obviously paper layers and glue have covered the area cutted, which resulted in hull misfitting. So I need to cut further aft. Fortunately I had some free space but it just that stern moved too much behind at the end of the base. I could dig in a bit forward but then waves should be reformed to align with the bow so I rejected this option.

Next steps:

Fitting hull and closing the gap with material.

Apply cotton to form water foam

Applylight coat of medium gel to give a rougher texture

Minor painting jobs

Apply body car varnish for a super glossy effect.

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Might try putting it inside your freezer (with the Admiral's permission, of course). The cold stresses the plastic glue and CA joints. I've done this to a few model freight cars I needed to disassemble. The mods I needed to make required the partial tear-down.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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6 hours ago, Canute said:

(with the Admiral's permission, of course)

I can just see her opening the freezer door and seeing a freight car or two sitting there. My wife would just figure I had slipped another cog and go about her business figuring all was pretty much normal.

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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