TEV Wahine by Richard Dunn - Radio - scale 1:35 - 1965

[Richard Dunn]

Step_07 Assemble main Hull stringers

 

 

 

Edited October 27, 2021 by Richard Dunn

[Richard Dunn]

Step_08 addition of Stern webs and stern door

 

 

Edited October 27, 2021 by Richard Dunn

[Richard Dunn]

Step_09_Fitting of Mooring decks and angled bulkhead

 

 

Edited October 27, 2021 by Richard Dunn

[Richard Dunn]

Step_10 Assemble Forward longitudinals against straight edge

[Richard Dunn]

Step_11_Fit forward Longitudinals and inner partial frames

[Richard Dunn]

Step_12 Fit forward stringers

 

Edited October 27, 2021 by Richard Dunn

[Richard Dunn]

Step_13 Fit forward deck beams and superstructure webs

[Richard Dunn]

Step_14 Fit  2mm C deck panels to lock all frame heads in place

[Richard Dunn]

Step 15 Fitting 2mm side panels to hull on C deck, this must be done first as other overlap it

[Richard Dunn]

Step_16

Major Step

Fitting Hull side panels along full hull, tenons should align everything and make hull rigid.

all panels to have frames (pink) AND weld seams (red) marked on from shell expansion to aid fixing .4mm plates to this surface

 

 

Edited October 27, 2021 by Richard Dunn

[Richard Dunn]

Thoughts so far? I am think of fitting the 2mm acrylic clear  into the 2mm ply holes in the hull at this stage flush as the .4mm plates have the actual openings in them 1.5mm smaller and proper size.

I estimate that that is 3 days work so far.

The bow beyond the forward most bulkhead is bread and butter as well.

Edited October 26, 2021 by Richard Dunn

[yvesvidal]

This sequence of assembly is incredible. I wish most kit manufacturers would come close to what you are describing, in their instructions....or lack of.

It is amazing to see the ship being born, one level at a time and it feels like you could create kits at different scales very easily out of your 3D study.

 

Keep up this fantastic work.

Yves

[GrandpaPhil]

Excellent work!

[KeithAug]

Very impressive Richard. Planning looks impeccable.

[Richard Dunn]

Thanks guys
The best part is the actual assembly should not take that long..days not months, what I really have to figure out and I would appreciate some advice on this is the painting , as in what and when,  once I start adding the plates to this set of pages you will see what I mean but not tackled anything this size for that.
I think the .4mm plating should be pre primed prior to gluing onto substrate 2mm? any gaps and joins that need touch up can be done at end. I should point out to that as this is being built its still only temporarily fixed to lower hull, once the upper is assembled I want to remove it and then carve the lower hull, I think it makes sense to do this because at the moment the hull is firmly fixed to the base board which is level and straight, with no rise of floor, so measuring heights for knuckle line can be done  from the baseboard with no worrying about the hull leaning.

Also I should point out that this should be very stable, the ship is a top heavyish design but with B&B lower hull and very light topsides and even lighter top lid it should be fairly stable in even an unballasted state as the weight is all low down.

I do want to make kitsets, that was the plan , comprising of this CNC lark, photoetch and resin printed fittings. 
Actually if anybody has suggestions for subject matter go ahead, Cutty Sark is not an option clearly.
I realise that this size is not suitable though...😃

Edited October 26, 2021 by Richard Dunn

[Richard Dunn]

I am not sure if anyone has wondered this or not but thought I should explain that the parts which have twist like stringers and hull panels are obviously needing to be accurately developed to a 2d shape, especially as they have tenon holes to align with so Rhino has tools to do this for hull plates in steel, aluminium etc so its nota problem, it asks for the surface to develop and then you select any curves on that surface and it lays out the shape as well as the curves on the surface for you which can then be placed on sheet template for cutting.

Another shortcut I have done is to eradicate bevels, I have allowed for the parts to sit on the 1 corner and allow the epoxy glue to fill the space in the bevel. this is to make process faster but also it makes the accuracy a lot better as in the process of bevelling you could potentially create fit errors, the glue I use prefers to have small gaps so strength is not an issue.

I wiil do more pages tonight after work but I have cut all the parts above already and are sitting on my bench taunting me, I intend to assemble this over Xmas break and even carve hull then to, a week each I would think.

Edited October 26, 2021 by Richard Dunn

[Richard Dunn]

Step_17 Secondary Longitudinals

[Richard Dunn]

Step 18_End supports

[Richard Dunn]

Step_19 forward 2mm deck panels, leave uppermost one un-glued for Bow  Thruster installation

[Richard Dunn]

Step 20 forward superstructure panels

[Richard Dunn]

Step 21 Forward fanroom, unglued as it acts as Thruster hatch for maintenance

Edited October 27, 2021 by Richard Dunn

[Richard Dunn]

Step 22 Smoke room aft wall

[Richard Dunn]

Step 23 AftSuperstructure formers

[Richard Dunn]

Step 24 Aft Superstructure covering 2.1mm

[Richard Dunn]

Step 25 B Deck aft _slide down over frame heads(this also forms floor of highly visible Cafetaria aft needs needs to be fitted out

Edited October 27, 2021 by Richard Dunn

[Richard Dunn]

Step 26 Cafetaria framework

[Richard Dunn]

Step 27_Cafetaria panels

[Richard Dunn]

Step 28 filler blocks to form hatch coaming

[Richard Dunn]

Step 29 Smokeroom ceiling and hatch  (shown closed)

[Richard Dunn]

Step 30 Mooring deck plates .4mm