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Bismarck by hof00 - FINISHED - Amati - 1/200 - Partworks


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Hi All,

Small update:

 

Sprayed Superstructure assemblies with Semi-Gloss Polyurethane. I think it's o.k.

Attached Superstructure Decking. (I'm not really over fussed with these, I feel these are too thick.

Anyway, they are on and moving forward regardless.

 

(I think I'm over it for today.... 🙂)

 

Photos tomorrow hopefully.

 

Cheers....HOF.

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

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Hi All,

Another small update:

 

Yesterday, I thought that I had ruined the Superstructure....

Problem: Sprayed the incorrect Polyurethane over my work.

The result was that it darkened the Grey and was a little too gloss, I was absolutely gutted.

 

I slept on it and decided to re-spray with Vallejo Acrylic, Semi-Gloss Clear.

This "Picked Up" they different Grey's. I now have Superstructure colors that match the Hull. (I am much relieved!! 🙂)

 

I am of the opinion that the original Polyurethane absorbed the light rather than reflecting.

 

So, the "Crystal Clear" Acrylic is fantastic for Wooden Ship models but no good for the Bismarck where I have already been using "Vallejo...." ....

 

(The Decking areas got a dose of Vallejo also.)

 

I thought I'd have a change of pace for the next couple of days and have a go at the Arados. (These are tiny.... The plan is to have one with folded wings and the other, wings extended.

(These are the next two "Issues" anyway.)

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

Photos:

 

 

DSC_0661.jpg

DSC_0662.jpg

DSC_0663.jpg

DSC_0664.jpg

DSC_0665.jpg

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

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12 hours ago, robdurant said:

There's often a lot to be said for walking away for a little while and coming back to it. Glad the second coat picked up the greys again. She's looking great!

Thanks Chap,

I agree, walk away!! Live and learn I guess. 🙂

 

The situation would not have occurred in the first place if I had thought about things a little longer....

I had an idea that the reflective/refractive properties of different coatings was at play. (I had done some reading about this sometime in the past.)

 

the only other thing that's bugging me, (At the moment), is the  "Dazzle" Stripes encroaching onto the False Deck.... I'll rectify this soonish, it should be a strip of Light Grey around the Deck perimeter....

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry..

Edited by hof00

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

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15 hours ago, hof00 said:

I slept on it and decided to re-spray with Vallejo Acrylic, Semi-Gloss Clear.

This "Picked Up" they different Grey's. I now have Superstructure colors that match the Hull. (I am much relieved!! 🙂)

Nice fix on the paint, Harry. I know how it feels when the painting goes wrong and had to be redone not just once but three times! 

Bob Garcia

"Measure once, cuss twice!"

 

Current Builds: 

Hms Brig-Sloop Flirt 1782 - Vanguard Models

Pen Duick - Artesania Latina 1:28

 

Completed: Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Co. 

Member of the Nautical Research Guild

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, BobG said:

Nice fix on the paint, Harry. I know how it feels when the painting goes wrong and had to be redone not just once but three times! 

Thanks Chap!

I am pleased that I only had to re-spay the "Vallejo" Polyurethane.... 

I simply could not do a re-paint of the Superstructure. (I did consider this for a few panicked seconds....🙂)

 

I need to listen to myself and my mantra, "Slow things up and consider carefully....")

 

Anyway, onwards....

 

Cheers....HOF.

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

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Im so loving the decking also  - really makes  everything Pop.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Beautiful work on the superstructure Harry. Isn't it nice to see it all coming together?


Good luck with the Arados. Make sure that your holes for the landing gear are a snug fit. I had a rough time getting the floats aligned with the hull while the little brass pieces were falling out. Do your plans show the V struts between the floats and wing? I think that I see them in your PE pack, but my instructions neglected to mention them.

 

 

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2 hours ago, Old Collingwood said:

Im so loving the decking also  - really makes  everything Pop.

 

OC.

Thanks OC,

Appreciated!!

 

Cheers....HOF.

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

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1 hour ago, rvchima said:

Beautiful work on the superstructure Harry. Isn't it nice to see it all coming together?


Good luck with the Arados. Make sure that your holes for the landing gear are a snug fit. I had a rough time getting the floats aligned with the hull while the little brass pieces were falling out. Do your plans show the V struts between the floats and wing? I think that I see them in your PE pack, but my instructions neglected to mention them.

 

 

Hi Rod,

Thank you.

 

The Arados come with the Wing Struts, I guess I'll have a couple spare if the folded Wing version works out o.k.

Have just finished the PE Catapult "Sleds" and have almost completed painting the Aircraft. (I'm performing this "Unassembled."

Thanks for the "Heads-Up" regarding the Float alignment, however, I've already opened up the locating holes to 0.5mm

I guess I'll have to work on it....  🙂

 

I have a reasonably big issue that I'll past about shortly....

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

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Hi All,

No update today but rather an issue that I discovered yesterday....

 

The problem is that I have a "Gap" between the Main Hanger and Deck, Port side. (Starboard is fine unless I place finger pressure on top of the Hanger, the whole thig rocks slightly and I get a real bad gap all around. ()Except for the Hager....)

 

I have been giving this allot of thought.....

I initially thought that this was a "Fit" issue ,When I initially constructed this, it was super tight.... But no, I paired down the mounting lugs, so, not that....

 

Inspected the Underside of this, but nothing looks out of place, so, My conclusion is that the Hanger wall is not quite square but square with the rest of the Superstructure.

 

I thought about removing the Hanger but this would be an absolute "Nightmare" with all the PE, Decking, Etc. attached.

 

My only other thought was to carefully fill the gap once it is comes time to fix it down.

 

The Gap is only about 1.0mm and not noticeable just viewing but it really annoys and it would be good to fix as best I can.

 

I don't want to "Rush" the fix either and thought that I'd put my issue to the Forum to see if anyone has some "Sage" advice.... 🙂

(I took some photos to show the problem.)

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

Photos:

 

 

 

 

 

 

DSC_0666.jpg

DSC_0667.jpg

DSC_0668.jpg

Edited by hof00

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

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Hi All,

Any ideas regarding my post above? (Gap issue)

 

I have a few ideas,,,,

  • Plastic Putty
  • Plastic Card (Under and flush with Hanger edges)
  • Thin wood strip Under and flush with Hanger edges)
  • A combination of Plastic Putty/Plastic Card
  • A combination of Wood strip/Plastic Putty

Any sage advice or opinions very much appreciated.

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

 

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

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Paint some white glue into the space. You'd have to touch it up with more paint, since it will dry clear.

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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And to add to what Ken has said  do you think it would conform  with glue under it and pressure?  as I know of an excellent glue  that cleans up real well  but is super strong.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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Thanks Ken and OC.

I thought about White Glue....

I think that whatever method is used, I am of the opinion that I should remove this tier of the Superstructure, (It's not affixed yet),  and fill/paint before it is permanently placed.

 

I guess set it up on maybe some Glass to prevent filler bonding, or, maybe Masking Tape?

 

One of my concerns with White Glue is that maybe it could "Slump?"

The Hanger structure underneath is Plastic/PE, would White Glue bond sufficiently? (That's why I thought about Plastic Putty as a possible solution.

 

Thoughts?

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

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If the hanger  supperstructure  is loose  -  try some Super Glue  (Gel type)   apply it to the bottom edges of the hanger  using a  pin or tooth pick type thing, then place back down  but use some  clamps or something to make it meet  all the way round.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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13 minutes ago, Old Collingwood said:

If the hanger  supperstructure  is loose  -  try some Super Glue  (Gel type)   apply it to the bottom edges of the hanger  using a  pin or tooth pick type thing, then place back down  but use some  clamps or something to make it meet  all the way round.

 

OC.

Hi Chap,

Thanks for that.

The 2nd Tier of the Superstructure is not yet affixed to Tier one, just placed. The Hanger and the rest of Tier two are very firmly attached together.

 

The gap around the Port side of the Hanger remains.... I was thinking of trying to remove and I'd like to rectify this prior to permanently attaching Tier two .the Hanger from  Tier 2 but that would have been a huge mistake in terms of breakage/re-work.

(There are more components to fit prior to mating Tier one and easier to do this if I can remove Tier two to work on it, another reason why I'd like to rectify the gap.) 🙂

 

My apologies for not clarifying the above.

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

 

 

 

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

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Harry, there's not a high spot on the deck is there?   Have you put the superstructure on a piece of glass as "level test "?  

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

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Harry,

Since you still can remove the level 2 superstructure best way to go seems to me to put putty on the hangar where

the gap is, then place tier 2 on the tier 1 deck (protected) and squeeze out excess putty and remove. Seperating the

hangars from the forward tier 2 really is no option because of the extra damage created.

How did you create the gap? Did not glue the two parts tier 2 while placed in position on tier 1?

Hope this helps a little, keep us posted.

Regards,

Piet 

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Hi Mark and Piet,

Thanks for coming in to the "Fray" for me....

 

I initially thought that this was a "Fit" issue ,When I initially constructed this, it was super tight.... But no, I paired down the mounting lugs, so, not that....

 

Inspected the Underside of Tier two, nothing looks out of place.

There don't appear to be "High" spots on the Deck of Tier one. (I'll double check though. If there is, there's sod all I can do about it as the Wooden Deck is very firmly attached)

I'll do the Level Test as best I can, there are protruding ply "Locator" Lugs that protrude from the bottom of the structure. about 2/3 down the length of Tier two.

My conclusion is that the Hanger wall is not quite square, (Plumb) on one corner but square with the rest of the Superstructure as all the PE fits correctly, no gaps,.... 🙂

 

"How did this happen in the first place?"

I'm really unsure.... (If I had the luxury, I'd do it again. 🙂 Hindsight is a wonderful thing.... (Pardon the cliché!!))

 

Starboard side, as per photos is fine....

 

If I use any filler, I think it has to be a Plastic Putty as the Hanger is mainly Plastic and PE.

 

Thoughts?

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

 

Edit:

I have just placed a Steel Rule on the Deck of Tier one, no high spots whatsoever.

Placed Tier two on a sheet of Glass, as per the photos, I have a gap, Starboard side as per photos....

(Well, good to have confirmation I guess....🙂)

 

Photos:

DSC_0666.jpg

DSC_0667.jpg

DSC_0668.jpg

Edited by hof00

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

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Harry,

 

Can you hold the superstructure in one hand and carefully sand the bottom with a sanding block? Try to lower the high spot?

 

If that doesn't work, glue the superstructure in place and fill the gap with Vallejo plastic putty. It comes in a squeeze tube with a long, thin nozzle. It's acrylic so you can clean up excess with a wet cotton swab. I also like the micro disposable paint brushes for clean up & touch up. Afterwards mask the edge with 1/8" tape and touch up the white putty with your gray paint. It will look fine.

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Harry,

 

A word of advice regarding the PE bridge that surrounds the main mast and covers four boats. You built it back in January. It sits on four thin PE legs. When you attach it, make sure those legs are glued down securely. Use epoxy and scrape any paint from the feet and attachment points. There are about 15 antenna lines that pull vertically on that structure. Mine came off while I was rigging.

 

I am rigging with the nylon line that came with the kit, and am very happy with it. It is very thin (0.20 mm) and fits through the tiny holes in many parts. It is easy to tie and can be pulled tight with tweezers. My rigging is taut enough that I could play a little tune on it. I glue all the knots with a drop of thin CA. EzLine worked well on the Prinz Eugen but would never go through these tiny parts.

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1 hour ago, rvchima said:

Harry,

 

Can you hold the superstructure in one hand and carefully sand the bottom with a sanding block? Try to lower the high spot?

 

If that doesn't work, glue the superstructure in place and fill the gap with Vallejo plastic putty. It comes in a squeeze tube with a long, thin nozzle. It's acrylic so you can clean up excess with a wet cotton swab. I also like the micro disposable paint brushes for clean up & touch up. Afterwards mask the edge with 1/8" tape and touch up the white putty with your gray paint. It will look fine.

Hi Rod,

Thanks for the advice regarding my "Gap" issue.

I'll order some Vallejo filler next week, (As well as some more Acrylic Polyurethane), it sounds good and I hope it's available here. I have "Squadron" Plastic Putty at hand but it takes ages to go off and gets over things, (Messy), without masking first.)

I did consider "Attacking" the underside of the structure but shelved the idea, just one errant brush with something and I'll bend stuff. (I already some the Boat Skid Rails to straighten a tiny bit, I guess I don't wish to push my luck.... 🙂)

 

Do you think that I am at a safe stage to attach this structure? I was concerned that if I did this now, it would make things difficult adding additional components to this structure. (My instructions advise against attaching permanently at this stage. I did have an idea of setting this up, "Off-Ship" to do the fill and touch up thing.)

 

Thanks also for the "Heads-Up" reading what is described in my Bismarck instructions as the "Aft Signal Station. 🙂"

I have taken note of this, much appreciated!!

 

Yup, as you know, I was considering EZLine, or at least mentioned, I'll certainly give the kit supplied nylon a go first!! (I have never used EZLine before but got some from the States about a year ago.)

 

I'm currently working on finishing the Arados, one with folded wings. These are a little problematic in some respects, probably just the builder....

A question here for you,:

Did you use the painted Masking Tape method for the Canopy framework?

My instructions refer to placing strips 1.0mm wide but this just looks too wide....

 

Anyway, thank you once again for the information, very, very much appreciated.

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

 

 

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

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Hard to like that, even though at the time it was the enemy. As General Sherman said, "war is hell".

Ken

Started: MS Bounty Longboat,

On Hold:  Heinkel USS Choctaw paper

Down the road: Shipyard HMC Alert 1/96 paper, Mamoli Constitution Cross, MS USN Picket Boat #1

Scratchbuild: Echo Cross Section

 

Member Nautical Research Guild

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Hi All,

The above reply from Canute referred to a post that I inadvertently deleted the content of this was:

 

.Yesterday, or today depending on where you are in the world, the Bismarck sank taking 2,000 lives with her.... 27/05/1941 at 1030

 

Whether or not this was due to Royal Navy action, or, as some recent research suggests, the crew scuttled thier own ship.

 

Cheers....HOF.

Edited by hof00

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

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19 hours ago, hof00 said:

I'm currently working on finishing the Arados, one with folded wings. These are a little problematic in some respects, probably just the builder....

A question here for you,:

Did you use the painted Masking Tape method for the Canopy framework?

My instructions refer to placing strips 1.0mm wide but this just looks too wide....

Harry,

 

My kit came with a small piece of self-adhesive black tape cut into two strips about 0.5 mm wide x 60 mm long. At first they didn't seem to stick very well and I considered cutting down some Monokote (model airplane covering) trim tape. But I ended up using the tape supplied with the kit and it hasn't come off yet. 😟

 

I had a similar gap between my superstructure and deck, but I don't remember exactly which piece it was or how I fixed it. I think there was enough flat surface on top that I could put a a couple of big C-clamps between the superstructure and the bottom of the hull. Maybe I just put some weights on top. I used 5-minute epoxy for the joint, so the whole thing was done and forgotten in 5 minutes. Sorry I can't be more specific, but I think I just muscled it into place.

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23 hours ago, rvchima said:

Harry,

 

My kit came with a small piece of self-adhesive black tape cut into two strips about 0.5 mm wide x 60 mm long. At first they didn't seem to stick very well and I considered cutting down some Monokote (model airplane covering) trim tape. But I ended up using the tape supplied with the kit and it hasn't come off yet. 😟

 

I had a similar gap between my superstructure and deck, but I don't remember exactly which piece it was or how I fixed it. I think there was enough flat surface on top that I could put a a couple of big C-clamps between the superstructure and the bottom of the hull. Maybe I just put some weights on top. I used 5-minute epoxy for the joint, so the whole thing was done and forgotten in 5 minutes. Sorry I can't be more specific, but I think I just muscled it into place.

Thanks Rod,

I'll soldier on with the Canopy Frames, I found some "Lettraset" tape about 1.5mm, something to trim down.... 🙂

I also found some Vallejo filler that you advised me about. I'll have a "Play" Off-Ship when I get my hands on it.

 

Cheers and Regards,

 

Harry.

Edited by hof00

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

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Hi All,

It's been a while since I posted so here is a small update:

 

Arados complete apart from Canopies, I'll get to defining the Frames when I find something suitable to highlight them.

Conning Tower has had additional PE attached, (Not shown here), and Upper Tower Gallery and Fire Control structures assembled.

Funnel PE attached but not yet complete.

10.5cm Anti Aircraft Guns, (X8), complete.

Bow Cleat attached. 

 

I think that I really need to get the Main Deck Stanchions marked and the Decking sized and affixed as there are many sub-assemblies almost ready to attach. 

 

Cheers....HOF.

 

Photos:

 

 

DSC_0688[1].jpg

DSC_0689[1].jpg

DSC_0690[1].jpg

DSC_0692[1].jpg

DSC_0693[1].jpg

DSC_0694[1].jpg

Completed Builds:

 

A/L Bluenose II

A/L Mare Nostrum

Sergal/Mantua Cutty Sark

A/L Pen Duick

A/L Fulgaro

Amati/Partworks 1/200 Bismarck

A/L Sanson

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Had a think about your hanger problem  -  could part of it be riding hight on the decking?  as  this happened to me on my  Warspite build  (and that was in 1/350 scale)   I had to trim a bit away to let part of the superstructure  sit flat on the deck.

 

OC.

Current builds  


28mm  Battle of Waterloo   attack on La Haye Saint   Diorama.

1/700  HMS Hood   Flyhawk   with  PE, Resin  and Wood Decking.

 

 

 

Completed works.

 

Dragon 1/700 HMS Edinburgh type 42 batch 3 Destroyer plastic.

HMS Warspite Academy 1/350 plastic kit and wem parts.

HMS Trafalgar Airfix 1/350 submarine  plastic.

Black Pearl  1/72  Revell   with  pirate crew.

Revell  1/48  Mosquito  B IV

Eduard  1/48  Spitfire IX

ICM    1/48   Seafire Mk.III   Special Conversion

1/48  Kinetic  Sea Harrier  FRS1

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