HMS Sphinx 1775 by Glenn-UK - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - V2 Kit by Glenn Shelton

[Glenn-UK]

19 minutes ago, Blue Ensign said:

Looking good Glenn,  and by fitting the first few Ratlines at intervals certainly helps to counter pulling the shrouds out of line, it's the method I use for  'Rattlin' down.

 

B.E.

Thank you, I agree interval fitting is the best method for adding ratlines.

[Dave_E]

That little bit of wisdom is going into the notebook. Thanks Fellers. 👍😀

[Glenn-UK]

2 hours ago, Dave_E said:

That little bit of wisdom is going into the notebook. Thanks Fellers. 👍😀

Your welcome 

[glbarlow]

I space them 10 then 5 then 2. Not only for keeping them lined up but it also makes it easier to tie, and even better at least for me, somehow it makes me physiologically feel like am making more progress in less time. 

[Glenn-UK]

Ratlines - The never ending saga of clove hitch knots.

Work continues with adding the ratlines, each ratline takes me between 5 to 10 minutes to complete.

 

Yesterday I completed work on the starboard side foremast. There are one of two ratlines I could have done better, but overall I like how they have turned out.

In the picture below I should have added one more ratline just below the catharpin rod. The sailors on this ship will there earn their daily tot of rum when climbing up and over the rod on to the futtock stave ratlines.

 

This morning I have been working on the main mast starboard shrouds. Again there are 2 or 3 which I could redo but overall they do not look too bad. I am a little bit concerned that I will not have enough ratline thread left to complete the process, especially when I start work on the top mast ratlines. I'm trying not to be too wasteful so fingers crossed.

 

Edited June 3, 2022 by glennard2523

[Oldsalt1950]

Looks good Glenn. Ratlines should never look perfectly aligned with perfect drape. 

[Glenn-UK]

27 minutes ago, Oldsalt1950 said:

Looks good Glenn. Ratlines should never look perfectly aligned with perfect drape. 

Many thanks, once the sailors have been up and down a few times they will move a bit and become uneven.

[Dave_E]

Looks really good.👍😀

[Glenn-UK]

1 hour ago, Dave_E said:

Looks really good.👍😀

Thank you, it is very repetitive work but quite therapeutic. I have a nice simple method which seem to yield decent results most of the time.

[Dave_E]

47 minutes ago, glennard2523 said:

I have a nice simple method which seem to yield decent results most of the time.

I’d be interested in your process. 

[Glenn-UK]

Ratlines - My Method

I use to start at the bottom and work my way up and I usually ended up with hourglass shaped shrouds. I changed to the method detailed in this post on the DOK build and then on my Alert build and it has yield much better results.

 

 

So here is my process

 

Looking at the plans I note the main mast outer stern side shroud only has a few ratlines, as can be seen in the picture below. As detailed in my post I opted for a 5mm spacing between ratlines to replicate the 13" spacing on HMS Victory at 64th scale

 

With reference to the next photo I print out a set of guidelines, with a 5mm spacing which is cut to shape an pinned to the shrouds.

 

On the template X indicates the full length ratlines which are the first ones to be added. 

 

Next I add the ones either side of the X which are the ones indicated with on 0 on the template. After that I add the middle ones as indicated by a 1 and finally I complete the process by adding in the 2's. I tie a half hitch of the first shroud (which does not require a ratline 0,1 and 2) as I find it easier to then add the clove hitch knot to the first shroud. Once the ratline is completed I apply a touch a ca gel to the first and last clove hitch before I trim the excess thread. The half hitch can then be released from the first shroud line.

 

Once I have completed adding all the ratlines I will check and adjust the positions where necessary before I brush on a diluted pva solution over all the shrouds and ratlines.

 

Moving on to the mizzen mast they are all full length ratlines. I started by adding every 5th ratline one as indicated by the 0's (see photo below). I then added the middle ones as indicated by the 1 which is as far as I got when I took the picture below.

I will now fill in the missing ratlines. I have already added one near the top so now I will add on near the bottom and will continue to work in both directions alternatively.

 

I also like to work from left (stern) to right (bow) on the starboard side.

 

To begin the process I cut a suitable length of ratline thread (approx 8cm for the example below) and I create a clove hitch knot around the first shroud line. This can be seen in the photo below but the knot has not been tightened.

Ensuring I keep as much thread as possible available for the rest of the ratlines the knot is tightened up, checking its position with the template.

Moving on to the second shroud line I form a clove hitch knot. I find I can make the knot much quicker using my reverse action tweezers.

The position of the knot is adjusted to take out the slack, I am almost there in the photo below.

Once I am happy I pull the knot tight.

Onward on upward I move to the third shroud line and the first part of the clove hitch knot is formed.

Using the reverse action tweezers the second loop is soon created.

Once the position is adjusted and the slack removed the knot is pulled tight.

On to the final shroud line the clove hitch knot is quickly formed.

Once the slack is taken up the knot is pulled tight. It take me around 3 minutes to add a ratline to the mizzen mast shrouds and around 7 minutes for the main mast.

I use a touch of ca gel to second the knots at each end. I do not apply gel ca to the other knots.

After a few seconds the excess thread can be trimmed. I tend to do a few ratlines at time before I trim the excess.

Once I have completed adding all the ratlines I will check and adjust the positions where necessary before I brush on a diluted pva solution over all the shrouds and ratlines.

 

[Glenn-UK]

Lower Ratlines Completed

I had a really good day in the shipyard today and managed to complete the ratlines for the lower masts, approx. 1000 clove hitch knots tied. I am reasonably happy with the end result as they look much better than any of my previous builds.

 

I now need to manufacture the Fore Yard, Main Yard and Crossjack Yard and associated Stunsail Booms. Once complete they will be added to their respective masts before I can start work on adding the stays.

 

 

[glbarlow]

I run one color highlighter over every tenth row line on the card and a different color over the fifth row between those, helps to keep track.  I learned that trick from someone here on the forum. 

[Glenn-UK]

16 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

I run one color highlighter over every tenth row line on the card and a different color over the fifth row between those, helps to keep track.  I learned that trick from someone here on the forum. 

That is a good idea, I could do something similar when I print out the template. That said my pencil annotations X, 0, 1 and 2 works OK also.

[Glenn-UK]

Foremast Yard - Production

Yesterday I started work on the foremast yard. Firstly I made the 2 off stunsail booms. Each comprised a length of 3mm dowel which was tapered to 1.5mm along its length using my proxxon mini lathe. A 0.8mm hole was also drilled in each one, as shown on the plan sheet.

 

Next I moved on the main foremast yard. This was slightly more complicated and started life as a length of 8mm dowel. Leaving the middle section (66mm wide) at 8mm for the time being each end of the dowel was tapered down to 3.5mm on the mini lathe. During the tapering process I made sure the 2 x stunsail support brackets would fit. Once I was happy with the tapering the middle section was shaped (very badly) as an octogen and once that was complete the two cleats were glued in place. Next I added the stunsail end irons and hooks and completed the process by drilling the yard for the yard footrope stirrups.

 

Today I moved on the various blocks and spent a couple of hours seizing thread to the various blocks. A couple of blocks required eyelets and there were a couple of double block seizing required. With this task complete the next task will be to add them to the main yard and to rig the footrope stirrup's. Once that is done I can secure the stunsail booms in place and paint the completed yard assembly black.

 

The follow photo shows the current progress, the stunsail booms and footrope stirrup's are only dry fitted.

 

Edited June 10, 2022 by glennard2523

[Glenn-UK]

Foremast Yard - How To Secure To The Foremast?

I have completed all the work on the foremast yard and it is ready to be secured to the foremast. This post is a request for help as I'm unsure how to go about this task. I have detailed on possible method which I think can work but I would really appreciate any ideas / help in this respective.

 

The photo below shows the plan sheet. It shows a small length of thread which is used to hold the yard to the foremast which is fed through and then seized to the some thread eyelets. There appears to be a second thread holding the yard to mast.

Next I looked at Lennarth Petersson's book, which showed something similar, but the linking thread is taken down to a belaying pin possibly via a block and tackle arrangement and maybe to a eyelet on the foremast channel.

Finally I looked through Jim's excellent build log and found the following photo, but it was difficult to work out the method used.

Based on the above research I have come up with one possible method which I have trialled, as detailed below.

 

Stage 1 - Make a Eyelet

I took a length of 0.75mm natural thread and using some 0.1mm natural thread I added 5 seizing's coils to make an eyelet. It was important to ensure there were two equal lengths of the thread coming from the eyelet as can be seen in the photo below. This process was repeated to make a second eyelet again with two equal lengths of thread.

Stage 2 - Secure the eyelet thread to the yard

Taking one end of the first eyelet's thread I secured it to the yard using a simple clove hitch knot. To test the process I used a spare piece of 8mm dowel, noting the actual yard is octagonal with cleats to hold the thread in place.

I have not applied any ca gel or trimmed the excess thread away on the test build once the knot was tightened as I intend to use these threads on the actual yards.

 

The second eyelet thread was also secured to the test yard, again using a clove hitch knot.

 

Stage 3 - Securing to the mast

The next stage is to take one of the threaded eyelet ends and to pass it behind the yard before passing it through the opposite eyelet where it would then be seized.

 

The next step is to take the other eyelets thread end and to pass it behind the yard before threading through the opposite eyelet where it would then be seized.

 

I have not added the seizing in the photos below where the test yard has been secure to a test mast. The first photo shows the clove hitch knots and I am just holding the unseized ends in place so these threads can be used on the actual yards and mast. The clove hitch needs to be rotated by 180 degrees so it not visible.

The next photo shows how the threads will hold the yard to the mast with the threads fed through their opposite eyelets.

Assuming there is room to add the seizing's on the actual model I think this method will work. I also need to check I can hold the thread in place under tension while the seizing is added.

 

As I said at the beginning of this post I am looking for help, suggestions on how to tackle this task.

Edited June 11, 2022 by glennard2523

[Oldsalt1950]

Glenn, was looking at your dilemma. Lee's book on Masting and Rigging page 67 has your answer.  You will make two lines with eyelets /thimbles in the end, loop the line around the yard on each side of the mast them take the free end and pass it through the eyelet/thimble on the opposite side. These lines then run down to a block with a hook and attach to an eye fastened to the deck near the base of the mast. 

[Glenn-UK]

31 minutes ago, Oldsalt1950 said:

Glenn, was looking at your dilemma. Lee's book on Masting and Rigging page 67 has your answer.  You will make two lines with eyelets /thimbles in the end, loop the line around the yard on each side of the mast them take the free end and pass it through the eyelet/thimble on the opposite side. These lines then run down to a block with a hook and attach to an eye fastened to the deck near the base of the mast. 

I don't have Lee's book. Lennarth's book has a similar picture 

[Oldsalt1950]

Here you go Glenn.

 

[glbarlow]

I think it’s ok to pin the yard to the mast with a cut off nail. That way you’re not fully dependent on rigging to keep it in place. It’s completely in visible once done and with rigging in place. Your second diagram down is my vote except I’d tie it off to the mast, I’ve never run that rope down to belay, seems unlikely there would be two ropes running down.  There should be a yard lift that raised and lowered it to be added later.  That said I’ll defer to our maritime experts that I’m sure will offer an opinion.

 

 

[DocRob]

Thank you very much Glenn, for explaining your methods of rigging ratlines and others. This will be a great help for my very first rigging on my Duchess of Kingston, same scale, same knots. I hope, I will learn from your experiences and don't ruin my nerves and yours along, when I bombard you with questions.

 

Cheers Rob

[Glenn-UK]

1 hour ago, glbarlow said:

I think it’s ok to pin the yard to the mast with a cut off nail. That way you’re not fully dependent on rigging to keep it in place. It’s completely in visible once done and with rigging in place. Your second diagram down is my vote except I’d tie it off to the mast, I’ve never run that rope down to belay, seems unlikely there would be two ropes running down.  There should be a yard lift that raised and lowered it to be added later.  That said I’ll defer to our maritime experts that I’m sure will offer an opinion.

 

 

Thanks, so many options to consider. I think I will try Lennarth's method (2nd picture) as that looks the easiest method. I will tie off on mast.

[Glenn-UK]

1 hour ago, DocRob said:

Thank you very much Glenn, for explaining your methods of rigging ratlines and others. This will be a great help for my very first rigging on my Duchess of Kingston, same scale, same knots. I hope, I will learn from your experiences and don't ruin my nerves and yours along, when I bombard you with questions.

 

Cheers Rob

Hi Rob

I'm no expert but I'm to share my methods and ideas so feel free to ask away.

[allanyed]

The ratlines look great.  It is great to see the detail of having them end at the second shroud from aft except where every sixth went to the swifter when there was an odd number or aftermost shroud when there was an even number.  Kudos!

Allan

[Glenn-UK]

Foreyard Secured to Foremast

I had been debating the best method to secure the foreyard to the foremast over the last couple of days. After some research and advice from James H and MSW members I opted for a slightly modified version of the method detail in Lennarth's Petersson's book. See the picture below for Lennarth's method.

Lennarth's method seemed easy to do and it was similar to the method shown in Lee's book on Masting and Rigging (page 67). I did not think it was necessary to take the free end down to the deck for belaying (as shown in both reference books) and I agreed with Glenn (USA) that the free end of the pendant should be tied off at the mast. James H also confirmed he secured the yard to mast without the need to take a line down to the deck. I also thought the  jeers, halliards and lifts would keep the yard firmly in play once they were rigged.

 

Using a simple clove hitch knot the truss pendants were added to the yard prior to fixing to the mast. The starboard side provided the free end and the port side provided the thimble which the free end would need to pass through before it was tied off. I had already added a pin to the yard and this was used to locate the yard on mast, with a touch a ca gel on the pin and a touch a wood glue on the yard, either side of the pin. The next picture shows the yard in place and, as can be seen, I positioned the clove hitch knots used to secure the truss pendants on top of the yard.

With the yard in place I was then able to feed the free end through the thimble and tied it off, as can be seen in the next couple of pictures.

Finally I have added a couple of pictures of the completed yard in place, I quite like the view shown in the first picture

Before moving on to adding the fore and fore preventer stays I think it may be an idea to rig the foreyard jeers and halliards for ease of access. I can also complete the partially rigged spritsail top yard braces. Once the fore and fore preventer stays have been added I can then complete the partially rigged spritsail yard braces which need to be tied off on the fore stay above the mouse.

[Oldsalt1950]

Very effective work around, and one would have to really look and know what the rigging is supposed to look like.

[Glenn-UK]

48 minutes ago, Oldsalt1950 said:

Very effective work around, and one would have to really look and know what the rigging is supposed to look like.

It looks good to me so I am happy. When looking at the jeer rigging I have realised I made an error when rigging the foreyard as I used 4mm double blocks instead of 5mm double blocks shown on the plans. It is not practical for me to change them as I would have to remove the yard which I do not wish to do. I have checked that the required 0.25mm natural thread can be fed through the 4mm double block holes so all is good to go. I will have to add the stays to the mast before the jeers are rigged before I hook the upper jeer blooks over the cleats on the mast. The stays can then be moved out of the way whilst I rig the jeers then the stays are then rigged to the bowsprit open heart blocks.

[Glenn-UK]

One step forward and two steps back with the foreyard

After fitting the foreyard to the mast I noted I had incorrectly fitted 4mm double blocks for the jeers instead of using the 5mm double blocks shown on the plan sheets. Initially I thought I could get away with it as I was able to fed some 0.25mm thread through the 4mm double block holes when I tried on a spare block, noting I did find it necessary to run a micro drill through the block holes to slightly enlarge them.

 

However when I then tried to rig the actual jeers in situ it proved much more difficult and I was not very happy with how the jeer rigging was looking. Therefore I took the sensible decision (time will tell) to remove the foreyard from the mast and to replace the 4mm double jeer blocks with 5mm double blocks.

 

Thankfully the foreyard was easy to remove from the mast once I cut and removed the truss pendant thread. I was then able to remove the 4mm double blocks from the foreyard without any problems.

[Glenn-UK]

Foremast Take 2 - Update

Before I took the decision to remove the foreyard, due to the error I made in fitting the wrong sized double blocks for the jeers, I had tied off the brace threads to the spritsail top yard. I have not tied off the other end of these threads to their respective belaying point which will be done once the fore and preventor stays have been added. In the picture below I have used my reverse action tweezers to simulate tension on these braces.

With the truss pendants and jeer double blocks removed the foreyard is supported by the quad hands ready for the replacement truss pendants and jeer blocks to be added. I have also removed the pin as I wish to fit a slightly longer pin.

It did not take too long to fit the new jeer blocks and truss pendants. Once again I used clove hitch knots to secure the truss pendants.

The next picture gives a better idea of the truss pendant arrangement. One pendant is a short length with a thimble (eyelet) at the end. The other truss pendant the free end. Once the yard is pinned to the mast the free end is passed through the thimble and once pull tight to keep the yard in place it can then tied off using a simple half hitch knot. The knot is then secured with a touch of ca gel as I did not think it was feasible for me to add a proper seizing.

The foreyard (take 2) in place on the mast and looks good to my (wonky) eye. The foreyard booms have been removed for the time being.

Next I added the jeer rigging. It was so much easier with the right size blocks fitted to the foreyard and I am reasonably happy with how this looks. The free ends have been taken down to the deck but have not be tied off to their respective belaying points. I will adjust and tension the jeer rigging as necessary when it is time to belay the free ends.

Finally I made a start on adding the fore and preventor stays. After making a thimble on one end of the fore stay thread I did a trial fit and decided that the mouse needed to be position approx 8cm from the thimble. I added knotted thread on the stay at the 8cm point which will stop the mouse moving any close to the mast. The following picture shows this arrangement. Tomorrow I plan to add a 6mm closed heart block to the other end of the fore stay so it can be linked with the open heart of the bowsprit. I will then repeat the process for the preventor stay. I have not used a open / closed heart arrangement before as my previous builds have used deadeyes. I am not sure, as yet, how I can ensure the stays are tensioned when the lanyards are added but I am sure I will figure it out.

 

Edited June 14, 2022 by glennard2523

[Glenn-UK]

Fore Stay and Preventor

It has been a productive morning. I noticed one of the blocks that had been rigged to the bowsprit endcap eyebolt had become detached. My first thought was I would had to derig the line and redo. On closer inspection I decided there was a simple work around solution which after about 5 minutes work meant the block was securely retied to the eyelet. Using a needle I was able to pass some new thread through the gap between the seizing and the end of the block. The new thread was then fed through the eyelet of the endcap and tied off.

 

The photo below shows the good side, which did not need the repair.

The next photo shows the other side where the repair was made. It will take an eagle eye to spot this on bodge job repair once the ship is fully rigged.

Once the repair was complete I added the 6mm closed heart block to the fore stay. As I started to add the lanyard I noticed the seizing on one side of the forestay open heart block on the bowsprit had started to unravel. I knew it would be a major job to remove and re rig as it would also affect the bowsprit shroud rigging. With some gentle cutting I was able to remove the thread that had worked lose. I was then able to apply some new seizing. Once again it is not a perfect repair but it will be had to detect once the ship is fully rigged.

With the open heart block repaired I then added the lanyards for the fore stay which is shown in the picture below.

The following is a picture of the competed forestay.

With no more repairs required I added the closed heart block the fore stay preventor followed by the lanyards. The next picture shows the completed rigging for the forestay and preventor.

A close up of the forestay and preventor lanyards is shown below.

The mouse arrangement for both the forestay and preventor is shown below

 

On final task was to feed the spritsail yard braces thread free ends over the foremast stay, above the mouse. If you look closely at the picture below you will notice the natural thread that is sitting on top of the lower mouse which is now waiting to be tied off.

I am now debating the next step and I leaning toward adding the foremast crows feet rigging next.