Harriet Lane by bobandlucy - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:96

[bobandlucy]

 

I received this model yesterday and did an inventory this morning (all is there). Designed by David Antscherl, it is the fourth in the Shipwrights series of progressive tutorial models. @Joseph F. has posted a complete unboxing "review," so I will not post more than a picture of the box here. The only thing I might differ with in Joseph's excellent assessment of the kit: "Should be an excellent kit for the intermediate ship builder, and easy enough for beginners." This kit is marketed as an "Advanced" level kit, and it certainly strikes me as such. But of course our skill levels are all different. . .

 

Josephs review: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/30239-196-uscg-harriet-lane-paddlewheel-gunboat-by-model-shipways/#comment-862352

 

I am currently building AL's King of the Mississippi, so posting here will be slow for a while, but given my propensity for jumping around I can see maybe painting some of the cast metal parts or doing other small tasks for Harriet Lane here and there. Otherwise I will follow David A's advice to keep to his suggested order of operations. Certainly I will be reading and re-reading the manual before doing anything!

 

Very exciting!

 

Edited August 25, 2022 by bobandlucy

[tlee01]

Good luck, I will be watching to see your progress and maybe pick up some hints

 

Gary

[Cathead]

Happy to follow along, this will be an interesting step up from your current project.

[bobandlucy]

Waiting on parts for the King of the Mississippi. When they arrive it will be a day or two to finish that project. In the meantime, I cleaned the workspace, flipped the cutting mat (over the course of 4 models I made a mess of it), and am starting Harriet Lane.

 

I began by dry-fitting the Parts A, B  & C to the central spine, using the bulkheads recommended in the manual to ensure they are square. There is a problem with  Part C and bulkhead 3, shown below. The tab on Part C interferes with the bulkhead.

 

 

In addition, the location of the slot on Bulkhead 3 leaves the part overhanging the top of the spine, and short at the bottom. The error looks to be just about the width of the slot.

 

 

The fix will be removing material as shown below. I'll use scrap on both sides of the bulkhead to close the gap created by enlarging the slot, rather than trying to infill.

 

This is a kit newly in production. I'm sure there will be a few more little things needing adjustment.

 

Onward!

 

 

Edited January 17, 2022 by bobandlucy

[bobandlucy]

Bulkheads installed. A little tweaking here and there. I took my time, and it all looks square and good to me. This is going to be another big girl!

 

Edited January 3, 2022 by bobandlucy

[bobandlucy]

I had forgotten how soft and fragile basswood is, even when quite thick! After I heard the sound of a break, I was reminded and became more conscious of my movements and forces applied.

 

Shaped and installed the inner stem and stern post. These pieces were missing the bevel lines. The stern post is the most challenging to shape (tapered to the outside edges), I took my time and I think it turned out well.

 

 

Next, I added the inner keel pieces. These fill the gap between the bottom of the bulkheads and the spine. The material supplied was not of the correct thickness, but fortunately, I had some walnut of the correct dimensions that made up the difference. 

 

 

The final step before fairing is to add the stern knuckle and  bulwark extension reinforcement parts. The knuckles were short in length, by approximately the thickness, so I added to them using scrap from the carrier sheet.

 

 

 

 

[bobandlucy]

I'm finding out through experience what an "advanced" level model entails. . . 

 

Added the bulwarks. About halfway through adding the inner reinforcement pieces. 

 

 

The upper counter at the stern gave me problems. The first three attempts failed using the suggested hot water soaking with the inner surface painted with dilute glue. It all looked good but buckled during drying. Pics of two of the failed parts:

 

 

Duplicate parts are provided, but I had to cut more before I installed them dry. That seemed to work. I then painted them on the inside surfaces with dilute glue. I used the failed upper counter pieces to make the inner reinforcing, but did not notice that the sheet containing the reinforcement pieces are thicker than the counter pieces. I'll have to correct that somehow down the road. The difference is exactly the thickness of a paper index card, so maybe gluing that on will be the fix.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 11, 2022 by bobandlucy

[druxey]

Yup, it's an 'advanced' all right!

 

If a piece buckles as you describe, you can often selectively re-wet the buckled bit and 'massage' it into the shape you want. But it looks like you are coping well with that tricky countered stern.

[bobandlucy]

Thanks, David. I am enjoying it!

 

bob

[tlee01]

Bob

 

I can see I will be frustrated when I do this ship, but that's all part of it. Figuring out the best way to build the model.

 

Good job

 

Gary

[bobandlucy]

Installed one of the lower counters at the stern. I had to cut this piece from stock as the supplied pieces were not long enough (due to my extending the knuckles, probably). I think I may have made a mistake in extending the knuckles. I am not left with as much of a gap between the knuckles and the lower counter as is shown in the manual. However, by laying some planking material across bulkheads 14/15 and down to meet the lower counter, it looks like it will work without distortion of the planks. If there is a problem, it might be cured with a slight adjustment of the angle on the knuckles, and possibly a little shim towards bulkhead 15. At least, that's my hope. The intersection of the upper and lower counters finished pretty well and the subtle change in angle is pleasing.

 

This is turning out to be a challenging model, as promised. I am settling into it and finding relaxation in a very slow pace.

 

Edited January 17, 2022 by bobandlucy

[druxey]

In ship models, any variation generally has a domino effect! It sounds as if you are able to compensate OK, though. That stern is a very tricky area. Looking good so far.

[bobandlucy]

Began planking. Was a bit puzzled- there is a small step in both the inner stem and stern post which I think should roughly correspond with steps in the garboard planks, they are there to aid in the transition from horizontal to vertical planking, but they are off by about an inch in the bow and more in the stern area. This resulted in a void between the planks and the inner keel, but these are covered by the 1/32" thick closure pieces placed over the area. These strips had to be longer and wider than shown in the manual. It may make no difference, I'll have to see how it looks when placing the outer keel strips. . . Otherwise I think think it's a good start.

 

Edited January 25, 2022 by bobandlucy

[bobandlucy]

Howdy. About halfway through the planking. At least, two of the four sheets of planking are installed. Installed the outer stern post.

 

I've definitely got some filling to do. . . but I think this one is better than my last, and that one ended up OK. It might take a couple more before I'd try a natural wood finished hull!

 

Started on the "Sponson Deck," (trapped under the SS plate). It's part of the wheel assembly. Making some progress while planking is drying/gluing.

 

[bobandlucy]

Getting close to finishing the planking. You can see I've got some minor gaps to fill, particularly amidships at the vertical planks. On the side not shown, it is better, though I beveled the planks the same on both sides. I think it is accumulated error due to some small edge-bending in planks above. Still, I am happy enough- they have a good connection to the frames and think it will turn out OK. Fitting the final strake will be its own challenge, as the manual indicates.

 

While letting planks dry, I started on the upper wheel enclosure and water closets. The fourth piece comprising the solid section of the water closets was sanded off during the first shaping operation, so I hope I'm reading the instructions correctly. 

 

Edited February 12, 2022 by bobandlucy

[druxey]

Looking good so far! Your previous experience in planking is paying off nicely now.

[bobandlucy]

 

Thank you, David. I had a good teacher. . . and I've absolutely learned to SLOW DOWN!

 

This is a fun model to construct. It will keep me busy for quite some time.

[tlee01]

Bob

 

That's looks really good.  I am fairing the hull of the smack now.  Your both right, slow down and enjoy the process.

 

BTW I picked up a scalpel, they do make a different.

 

Gary 

[bobandlucy]

Thanks, Gary. BTW, I used my scalpel on myself yesterday, to remove a nasty splinter I picked up doing yardwork. Painless!

 

bob

[bobandlucy]

Finished the planking! Came up short on both sides and had to infill with scrap. I decided to place the last planks against the bulwark where they formed the best joint, and infill below. I filled some gaps with wood dust/glue mixture. Did quite a bit of sanding and things started to feel nice. Additional filling will be done with Elmer's.

 

[druxey]

Well played, Bob!

[bobandlucy]

Thanks much, David.

 

Working on the two upper wheel enclosures and water closets. Pictured is one filled and sanded and one awaiting filling (outboard view). Had a hard time getting it all to mate up. I was really uncertain of my ability to shape the water closets solid rounded outboard portions, but I think they turned out well, and I really enjoyed the process. I just hope the inboard area has some room for adjustment, as that is where the accumulated error shows most. . . but will wait until mounting to the hull and placing the inboard card bulkhead before making any adjustments.

 

I used the rounded end of a  flat toothpick to apply filler to the joints, and 220 grit sandpaper folded in half to sand the joints to a sharp angle, so as not to cut a groove. Did this slowly/gently under magnification and am happy with the results.

 

I primed the PE grilles beforehand, as I did not want to spray the primer through the slots into the blackened interior- probably not necessary, but I was concerned. I will mask the PE prior to priming the rest of the assemblies.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 21, 2022 by bobandlucy

[druxey]

Looks like you did an excellent job of shaping the water closets, Bob. Well done!

[bobandlucy]

Thanks, David. Hoping the rest of it is on track. . .

[bobandlucy]

Added the keel, rudder and bow stem. The kit was missing the keel material, but once again, I had some walnut of the correct size. I had done a complete inventory, but used the parts list to do so, and there are some discrepancies between the manual and the parts list. Oh well.

 

The hull is now very smooth after a round of filling with Elmer's and more sanding. I will wait to do more until after priming. Right now it looks like there will be very little additional work needed. Priming occurs later, after some more work on the interior.

 

 

 

[bobandlucy]

I cut the gun ports out and added the stops to the openings. A 12 inch-long strip was supplied for the stops, which was not enough, but I found some leftover material from another model and used it to finish. Taking a razor saw to the model was a little nerve-wracking, but got through it OK! Added the hawse hole metal and the port holes, which I flattened as suggested.

 

 

I decided a while ago to request the inner keel strips from ME, which were supplied in the thickness indicated in the parts list, which differed from the thickness given in the instruction manual. I used some other material which I had, but after all I did not get what I had paid for. I took care to describe the discrepancy, and received an email from the parts dept. asking me to use the proper form, which I had never noticed, in the future. I took quite a while, but eventually I was mailed the incorrect parts. Fortunately the parts can be used in another area where the kit was short on material.

 

During this time I found that the outer keel material, also used in other places, was not on the parts list at all. I used some walnut left over from the riverboat model, but decided that it was time to reconcile the manual with the parts list (I did my initial inventory using only the parts list) and found seven more instances of missing parts either not included in the parts list or not supplied in the correct quantities, etc. I used the correct Form. Parts emailed me asking if I was wanting to purchase these items. I said no, and wrote an expanded explanation with part and page numbers from the manual for each part. No response yet.

 

Kit designer David A. does a good job of identifying optional features for which one might have to obtain material on ones own. I am quite clear that if the manual refers to a part with a specific model number, and that part is not optional, it should have been included in the parts list and material provided as part of the kit. It is my understanding that ME develops the parts list from the manual written by the designer.

 

Sorry for my long-windedness. I find no fault with the kit design and am really enjoying building it. I chalk this all up to this being a new kit, and that there is a new parts dept. guy. . .  I will buy the parts if I have to in order to finish the project, but. . .

 

Update 4-23-22

 

Just wanted to take a moment to say that Model Expo has sent me the missing parts I had identified. In addition, they have initiated on their own a new mailing of additional parts missing, identified in-house. I must have missed them in my inventory. I have spent a great deal of time in cross-checking, but this is still relatively new to me. It has been a difficult road, but I am happy to say they have stepped up to the plate and are attempting to correct mistakes. All is forgiven (mostly). 

 

Edited April 23, 2022 by bobandlucy

[gjdale]

Nice progress Bob. I have sent you a PM about dealing with ME and missing parts. I hope this helps you get it sorted.

 

[bobandlucy]

Thanks, Grant. I did kick this upstairs and got an almost immediate response from the ME President. Looks like I will get the missing parts soon, and that the parts list will be edited accordingly. Maybe ME's process will be improved also.

 

I have only to add the hull rub rails and the hull will be ready for priming. I am also working on the lower portion of the paddle-box assemblies. Although probably not necessary, I lightly broke all the edges of the rims and spokes- it does feel better in the hand, although the work may not show when painted. When ready, I will prime the hull and paddle-boxes at the same time.

 

[tlee01]

Bob

 

The wheels look great.  I might wait on this one until I hear how things work out with Model Shipways.  I am now thinking the armed longboat as my next one.  I need the practice on planking.  

 

Well back to the smack and filling and sand the hull.

 

Gary

[bobandlucy]

Gary, it looks like the HL parts list will be re-done, hopefully not based on my input alone, as I might not have caught everything. . . I fully expect to have to make additional parts request(s). As long as I'm not ignored or slow-tracked, I'm fine with that. I do not want to deter you from trying this kit.

 

I would not say that planking the HL is more difficult than the lobster smack, and for myself I want to complete the series for the instructional value. This one has a little work with card stock, more complex shaping of wood, and more extensive rigging.

 

It's hard for me to see past this kit right now, but I'm sure I will feel more confident in investing in something complex using something other than basswood as the predominate material.