Lady Nelson by Dave_E - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - 1:64

[glbarlow]

You should plank the deck before adding the bulwarks. Now you’ll need to add a waterway to cover the cracks between the decks and bulwarks, my log shows one
 

It isn’t unusual to have to sand down the top row of bulwark planking some in. A model like LN

Edited February 5, 2022 by glbarlow

[Dave_E]

Funny how I thought about that… then thought about paint… bleeding onto the decking etc.. I’ll just have to do my best with exact fit or use a waterway. And that’s the way the drawings show it. 😳

[Dave_E]

Hey All - I just couldn’t help myself… had to paint something. I’ve got mixed emotions on where to go next… 2nd planking, deck planking. I am considering the second planking and then paint the exterior complete.

 

[starlight]

Hi Dave,

 

Looks good so far. I'm also a novice at this but I think either choice is fine based on my own experience. Make sure to remember your paint ratio in case you need to do other fittings/touch ups later on in the build.

 

On 2/5/2022 at 12:42 AM, Dave_E said:

Funny how I thought about that… then thought about paint… bleeding onto the decking etc..

 

What I did on my Fly build was to plank the deck first, then paint the lowest bulwark plank before gluing:

 

 

This way you get a good fit-up and a clean painted edge.

 

Also, for the second planking, give some thought as to how you want to finish the hull. If you're painting the area below the waterline white, you can afford to be more messy with that section . If you want to use stain/tung oil/etc. you need to be sure not to have excess glue which will block the pores of the wood.

 

Cheers,

starlight

[Dave_E]

Thanks Starlight - excellent words. I am painting below the waterline, so I’m using the purple colored walnut strips down low on the hull. Learning a lot on this first build… how the wood sucks up the paint, should I seal the wood to painted first etc.. In my mind, everyone’s first build is just that, it’s their first, where they made mistakes and learn what works, what doesn’t, techniques they do or don’t like etc.. I had never thought about painting the lowest plank on the bulwarks first. That’s what’s so cool about this forum! Thank you. 👍

[0gri]

Hello Dave,saw your post in Jobbie's brig Supply log.Like you i chose Lady Nelson after much studying of msw and suggestions from members on a first build, but also bought HM Brig Supply at the same time couse i liked the look of her so much.I have to admit i really struggled with the planking,it took three attemps till i was satisfied but this took almost a month of daily work during lockdown.As frustrating as i found it i decided to start Supply to practice my planking.Much to my suprise the planking flew on,i enjoyed myself so much instead of going back to Lady Nelson i decided to crack on with Supply.I'm at the point of fitting the masts and to be honest am dead chuffed at how well shes turned out.  The only dissapointment with the caldercraft kit were the instructions(although the Amati were not much better),i think  Supply is one of there earlier kits,the instructions for Badger are far better.After reading your log(to which i have subbed)i'm sure you would have no problems as a second build.Whatever you choose as your next build i hope you enjoy it,regards Mark

[Dave_E]

Thank you Mark. Do you have a build log for your ships?

[Dave_E]

Second planking under way… After 1/2 way through the upper section, I saw how my planks were turning into an S shape on the hull. I continued and know I’m going to have to adjust things on the lower. At least the lower half can be filled and will be painted. 

[LyleK1]

Looks good…

Thst half hull project will you in the future but overall you’re doing fine!

[KirbysLunchBox]

Looks like it is coming along nicely to me. I think there is a bit of an optical illusion because the bow has such sharp curves. 

[glbarlow]

Common problem from not overlapping the next plank to the one above it and starting the taper where they naturally cross. You’ve started all the tapers for the bow too far back. Another reason for the importance of lining the hull. 
 

It gets better with practice. 

[KirbysLunchBox]

1 hour ago, glbarlow said:

starting the taper where they naturally cross

Right there is some advice I have somehow either forgotten, didn’t understand, or completely missed before…

[Dave_E]

15 minutes ago, KirbysLunchBox said:

Right there is some advice I have somehow either forgotten, didn’t understand, or completely missed before…

I'm sure that after I've also built 11 wooden model ships, I'll have a complete grasp of the technique. 😀 Until then, so far having a blast, it's fun, it's relaxing. 👍

[glbarlow]

I’ll skip providing any further comments, enjoy your build. 

[KirbysLunchBox]

57 minutes ago, glbarlow said:

I’ll skip providing any further comments, enjoy your build. 

I meant what I said in a very sincere way. I came up with a super complicated and not very effective method of trying to figure out when to start the taper.  Your advice was very profound and I fully intend to try it when I start my second planking. 

[glbarlow]

😊Not what I was referencing, I’m glad it helps you. Btw, it’s a poor substitute for lining the hull to really get it right but it works. 

[Dave_E]

1 hour ago, glbarlow said:

I’ll skip providing any further comments, enjoy your build. 

Hey Glen, absolutely no malice  intended in my remarks. Some folks get it faster and some folks don’t. I’ve read so many threads and seen work from the ridiculously perfect to the not so perfect (where I fall). And I stand by my remark… one can only get better as you continue in the hobby (I hope). I certainly hope my 2nd build is better than the 1st and so on. I value everyone’s comments and opinions and use their work as something to inspire me… including yours. 👍😊

[Dave_E]

OK, got the port side done. The lower band got sporty... yep, I have checks, stealers, fillers and whatever else we can call it. 😄  Sanding, some filler, and paint below the waterline, I think we'll end up OK. 👍

[KirbysLunchBox]

Absolutely! All the planks that you will be able to see above the white look spot on to my novice eye. 

[Dave_E]

Hi All,

 

After sanding, and filling and sanding some more, I'm to the point of stopping... cause if'n I don't, I'll burn through somewhere. Counting on the paint to help with imperfections (I hope). Included pictures of the starboard side in the rough to sanded and filled. On to the main and upper wales while I'm in a plank bending frame of mind, then the decks. The transome was sporty. I am amazed how strong these things are. I was really man handling it while working on it. I'm also glad it looks better 2-3 feet away. 😆

 

[LyleK1]

Well done, Dave!

Looks good all sanded up!

[Dave_E]

Hi All,

 

Good hard couple of days. First picture is the stern facia... red arrows show where I broke it while working with it, green arrows are where I had to cut to resize it to fit. Somewhere way back when assembling the frames, I got that last one a little mis-shaped and have had to adjust everything. 😐 I have filled the gaps and with paint, I think it will be fine. I've been gripping the hull pretty good and must now get the dinky, fragile parts "feel" going. Got the main wales on. But where I need ya'lls help is the stand mounts. As you can see by the picture, they are rather loose and really don't fit. These are what came in the Amati kit. How do you secure these to the keel with such a sloppy fit of the brass mounts?

 

[starlight]

Hi Dave,

 

Might be worth checking out some of the other Lady Nelson logs to see how others tackle this problem. I suspect it will depend on if you want the model to be detachable from the mounts. Some modelers permanently fasten them. You could try padding the inside of the jaws with some felt or something to take up the gap.

 

-starlight

[LyleK1]

Sand to fit.... for the mount included in the kit.

 

Brass mounts usually are mounted with a bolt through the keel. I f you don't have access, its problematic!

Or you could fashion your own mount!

Lots of choices.

[AJohnson]

Hi Dave, I have just gone through that process on my ‘Nisha’ and I permanently fix my models to the pedestals and bases, so I have firm foundation before adding delicate masts and small parts. Other builders keep them on detacheable cradles, think down to personal choice. 

[cdanly]

Nice plank work! I love the finish color.

[Dave_E]

Hi All,

 

I am using the LN as a learning curve (while hopefully building a model I’ll be proud of and will look good). I’ve decided to do the deck planking authentically, meaning to scale. I will not be trying the tree nails for this scale. I want y’all’s help with my math.

 

If I measure the “deck length” in mm, I get 265. At 1:64 scale, that should be 55’. I read somewhere that deck planks were usually 6, 9 or 12’. Ok, so if I decide the shipyard is going to use 12’ planks that would convert to 57 mm (rounded down), correct?

 

I just edited the post after reading that decking would/might have normally been in the 20-30’ range? Now I’m going to show my novice research skills… I have none. 😊

Edited February 28, 2022 by Dave_E

[Keith Black]

 Dave, in old photos of ship decks you can't/don't see tree nails. I think they're cool but not realistic.

 

 At 1:64 one foot = 0.1875 inches.  That would make the deck length 10.4331 inches or 55.6 feet at scale. 30' = 5.625", 28' = 5.25", 26' = 4.875", 24' = 4.5", 22' = 4.125", and 20' = 3.75". Adjust plank lengths as required for the plank ends to fall center of the beams which are placed every fourth frame.  The plank end pattern should fall on a different beam at least every third plank to spread the load. 

 

 The problem comes when making the plank widths to scale,  6" = .09375". This is where authenticity and reality/practicality meet. Even making the planks 12" to scale (which they would never be that wide due to cupping) would only make them 0.1875".

[Dave_E]

Hi Keith,

 

I’ll turn this into mm and layout the frames. Thank you! 👍😀

[Keith Black]

 Dave, if you can cut your planks widths to 0.10 inch without issue it would be well worth doing. I don't have the means to do so, I'd have to go with a wider plank out of necessity.