Polaris by ibozev - FINISHED - OcCre - 1:50

[ibozev]

Second layer done!

 

    All of the measurement during the lining phase were correct and I am very happy that I managed to finish the job without any stealers or drop planks, which was my initial idea. This is the hull before sanding and varnishing:

 

 

    One mistake that I made, but will take a note for the next build, is that I didn't put the wales before starting the second layer. I followed the instructions for this step and will install the wales after the whole hull is planked (second layer + bulwarks). And because of this, there were 2mm gaps on the keel as I expected and it was quite a tricky to fill these gaps. This is the only place where I used wedges, but they wouldn't be noticeable at the end (see the third image from this post). Here you can see the gaps before filling them:

 

[BranPie]

Well done. That's looking really nice. I'm still not finished with mine. Work has come to a complete standstill again. Upside is that now I'll have an excellent build log to follow up on for my build

[ibozev]

    Yesterday I've managed to finish the bulwarks. And couple of months later I'm done with the planking (at least for this ship 😄).

    I just followed the instructions for this step and there was nothing special and frustrating. The only difference was that I used PVA instead of contact cement and cloth pins for convenience. After that I sanded the whole hull with 3 different sanding blocks (320, 600 and 2000). Really happy with the end result:

[ibozev]

She starts looking like a boat!

 

    Long time no posting, but I still did some work on my Polaris. First I stained all the wooden parts needed for the keel and the railings in walnut dye. Mounting the stem, keel and stern post wasn't so difficult as I expected, but the wales were quite challenging. For the wales I recommend to not follow the instructions (as I did at first), but use a PVA and bend the planks before staining.

    Fortunately all of the gaps, which I was worried about in post #25 from this log, disappeared as I expected. I didn't pay special attention to the gaps between the keel parts, PVA filled them pretty well. One mistake I noticed was that I didn't sand the first layer evenly on both sides of the stern and now there is a little edge on the left side of the stern post:

    Anyway, I can live with that 😁. Then I varnished the whole hull and started working on the deck - the most interesting part of the build I think. I also wanted to plank the bulwarks inside, despite the instructions, but the thin planks won't be enough for the future steps if I use them now. So, not 100% realistic bulwarks for this build, maybe for the next one . I painted the bulwarks inside with acrylic white, 3 or 4 layers were needed for good coverage:

      For the next steps I used only CA for mounting the footrails and the bulwark stands (not sure about the nautical terms). My advice is to put double layer of CA, because the first one soaks in the wood and doesn't make a good contact. Maybe this detail is obvious for most of the people here, but it was a surprise for me, when the parts didn't make a good contact after the first try:

    The instruction video says to use a ruler for marking the distance between each bulwark stand (12mm), but I used a divider caliper and it was easier I think:

    And one more tip for this step is the template that I made. I just measured the bulwarks at their widest point and cut all stands with this size. Using this template, each stand will have a square end and exact same size. The only cons is that the stands in the middle of the bulwarks (the shortest point) will take more time for sanding:

    And here are some images of the final look for now:

 

[BobG]

Very nice work, Ilia! She looks great!

[ibozev]

Thanks, Bob! 🙂

[ibozev]

    And the handrails were mounted. I stained them with Pine dye and used CA for gluing. It was a bit tricky to align all the parts, especially these on the stern.

    Then I began the work for the rudder. Well, I could say this was one of the most difficult and trickiest steps so far. Maybe because of the CA or because of the hole in the stern which should be made with an electric drill. Anyway, I've managed to drill the stern with 3mm drill and then used a 7mm file to expand the hole. I gave my best to make the hole symmetrical, but however I've cut a little bit from the deck planks.

   Bending the brass parts for the rudder was a real nightmare. I made a little mess at this step with the CA, but I'm still happy with the result. It's not perfect, but the rudder is functional and it can be easily rotated, so that's enough for me. 😄

Edited June 13, 2022 by ibozev

[BikerMart]

This is very nice. Are you sure that you are a total beginner?

[ibozev]

Thanks, BikerMart and yes this is my first ship. I am just trying to give my best and take my time on each step. 🙂

[allanyed]

Your following the tutorials for planking has resulted in one of the finest planking jobs in the kit build logs here at MSW.  It can serve as a lesson to others that no one is relegated to using the erroneous methods shown by some kit makers where many the planks fail to end at the rabbet as they should.  

With this being your first build, the build log is even more impressive.

Allan

[ibozev]

Thank you for your kind words, Allan! 

[ibozev]

Quick update from the last weekend - I've managed to finish the stern!

 

    First I've started drawing the black curve (don't know the nautical term if there is such), well I would be lying if I said that I drew it on the first try 😁. Happily after a several attempts with a pencil and an eraser, it turned out pretty well:

    Then I cut off the masking tape, stick it back on a rise paper, cut off the paper and then flip it on the other side of the stern. Then I just redraw the template on the opposite side.This way the curve will be for sure symmetrical on both sides:

    I masked the rest of the stern and paint it with acrylic black. The next step was to bend the brass decorations. I've used only a round pliers for this step and the final shapes went almost perfect, I think.  My advice here is to buy one of these pliers, because it's actually a really useful tool for bending and my opinion is that the end result won't be the same if you use normal pliers.

    Then I just tried to glue all of the brass parts as symmetrical as possible. And finally I bought a CA gel type (yes, I've used the liquid type until now) and it's hundred times better and easier for use than the normal CA glue, which is like a water. This is the final look of the stern:

Edited June 22, 2022 by ibozev

[Schooners]

Wow, that looks so cool.  I like it.

[ibozev]

    I haven't posted in a while, due to other urgent tasks in my home, but however I've made some progress on my Polaris.

 

    I've started making the items on the deck. It was really interesting and fun job, especially with the barrels. Here is an image of almost all small items - barrels, anchors stand, blocks, eyelets, channels and cleats:

    I used thick CA for mounting and two drills - 1 and 1,5mm for making holes in the deck. I strongly recommend to drill holes and glue such a small items with extra brass wire on the bottom. This way they will make better contact with the deck.

    Okay, so far so good. The next step is the hatchway, but here I noticed a discrepancy between the assembly instructions and the official OcCre tutorials in YouTube. In video tutorial (No. 47) they dyed a normal 2x5 strip with Sapele wood color and this way they made parts N3 and N4. But in the kit they provided such a Sapele strip which is not used anywhere in the future steps:

    And in the instructions there is no information about using any dye for this step:

    I checked the other build logs here, but no one had mentioned this, so I decided to write an official email to OcCre. And here I want to give а special thanks to their great service - I received a feedback on the next day with detailed explanation! So the right strip for this step is the 2x5 Sapele strip, which is already provided in the kit. This particular step is not correct in the video tutorial! They also replied to my comment below the video, so hopefully this will help to other guys in the future 🙂

    Let's go back to the hatchway. Except this misunderstanding, everything with the hatchway was clear:

    I have left to do the deckhouse, bilge pump, chain plates and both anchors then the hull will be finally completed.

Edited July 13, 2022 by ibozev

[RLindsey]

Such beautiful work Ilia!  I only hope I can do half as well on my first build.  I am very much enjoying your build log.

 

Rich

[ibozev]

Half of the story is done - the hull is completed!

 

    I continued the work of the deck items with the bilge pump. Nothing confusing here, I just followed the instruction videos:

    Next was the deckhouse - one of the most interesting items to build. Here the instructions are also fine (except the use of contact cement), the only difference I made was that I left chimney's rings unpainted (gray). I think it looks better this way:

    The chainplates - not so tedious as I expected. Just try to separate the work into small steps and do each step at the same time for all chainplates. This way all 8 parts should look almost identical. The other very important note here is to make sure each deadeye points down to the chainplate with its single hole:

    And last, but not least the anchors. First I sanded the metal parts just to remove all unnecessary edges, then painted everything acrylic black and decorated with gold. Here I want to say something about the paints (for this particular ship). As I mentioned in my very first post, I bought the Polaris kit together with the paints pack, which consists of 4 acrylic paints (white, black, brown, gold), 3 wood dyes and 1 varnisher. I could say, that I'm very impressed by the paints quality and they have a really good coverage, but when I finish this ship I will still have a lot of acrylic paint and dyes (all most full tubes with brown and gold paint and pine dye). My advise for future beginners who decide to start this ship is to check if they already have any of the paints, because you will need just a little from some of the colors and the full official paints pack is not really cheap (40$). In my case I didn't have anything and decided to buy everything, but for sure will use the rest of the paints in my future builds. Along this line of thinking I have two questions to the more experienced guys here: "Are there special conditions to store acrylic paints, wood dyes and satin varnish (any tips and tricks)? And how long after opening the tube I can still use it?". I will be grateful if someone provide me explanation.

   Back to the anchors. Before I tie the thread, I used a candle to remove the fuzz. I read in this forum that beeswax could also be used, but I didn't have it in home and decided to try with a flame. Well, it isn't the best solution (probably will try to make my own ropes for the next ship, but for this one will stick with the kit materials) but it's better than it was before:

    And here is a photo of the whole hull, finally fully completed!

    Now it's time for Masting and Rigging. First I will spend some time for research and reading the rest of my modeling book (check post #28) and then will continue with the second part of the story, so stay tuned!

 

Edited July 24, 2022 by ibozev

[Cathead]

Personally I've found that acrylic paints slowly dry out over time, even in a tight bottle, but that they can be rejuvenated with a bit of water. It's best to do this when they've just gotten a bit thicker, as opposed to when they're really set and dried. But different brands probably work different ways. Like many things, best to check on them now and then rather than forgetting about them for years until you need them!

 

Congratulations on finishing the hull, it's very attractive.

[ibozev]

I'm finally back after more than 2 months break!

 

    Well, this was a necessary time off from my Polaris, not because I lost an interest, but because I had to do a lot of other unexpected work at my home that could not be delayed. Luckily I've managed to finish the Mastini's "Ship Modeling Simplified" (absolutely amazing book, one of the best for beginners I think) and finally understood why "Masting and Rigging" is the hardest, most frustrating and time consuming part of ship modeling. Yes, the book explains the nautical terms, parts and there mechanics in a full-rigged ship and I agree - that is a lot of unnecessary information to complete the Polaris. But my opinion is that even if you don't build a full-rigged ship as a first build, it's really important to understand the basics, to know what are you doing and to do it properly. Yeah, I won't have to do yards and footropes, futtock shrouds or ratlines in my Polaris, but the (basic) knowledge of how to do these parts and what are their purpose in the real ships is really important and very interesting. As I said in my first post - I want to build my ship properly and learn a lot of nautical things, rather than just do something that I don't know anything about it . But enough talking about the things I learnt, let me show you the things I've made during the last 2 months.

 

    First I decided to redo the front blocks which will be used for the bowsprit shrouds:

    This was my first try practicing the new seizing technique and I think it looks a lot better than the simple overhand knots from the official instructions. Maybe the seizing here could be a little bit tighter, but I'm happy with the result.

    Then I started crafting the spars. First in the row was the bowsprit. Here I learnt another awesome seizing technique (special thanks to J Brent), which I used for all blocks, rigged around spars. This is the comparison between a rigged block, made according to the instructions and a block, rigged with the J Brent's technique:

    Better, right? And this is the second block, before mounting it on the spar:

    Yeah, this one seems a bit confusing and it is much more time consuming, but believe me the final result is much more better and authentic than the technique  showed in the instructions. This is the final look of the bowsprit:

    Then I continued with the fore and main mast. Here I've noticed something strange - there were no blocks with beckets. This type of blocks were not mentioned anywhere, neither in the plans nor in the instructions, according to which the running line should be tied just beneath the block and for me this is not correct. So I decided to learn how to make blocks with beckets, then checked the plans and marked where they are needed. Here are two of my blocks with beckets which I'm proud of :

    To make my job easier, I've made a little tool to keep the block in place while tightening the line around it. Just grab a part of scrap wood and pin a nail (or two for double blocks):

    This is the result of the fore mast and it's gaff:

    And these are all spars completed:

    Another thing I've been thinking about a lot is: to glue or not to glue the gaffs and the boom to the masts? As per instructions they should be glued, but for me this isn't correct. My understanding is that all of this spars (gaffs and booms) should be hauled using the running rigging. After all, that's the point of all halyards and the topping lift, right?

And this is how everything looks on the ship (dry fitted):

Edited October 19, 2022 by ibozev

[Cpt. Jack]

Hi Ilia,

I'd love to know more about how you went about tapering the masts and spars. they look excellent. I'm also interested in your method for achieving such nice, deep, and even stains. 

 

Best regards,

Jack

[ibozev]

Hello Jack,

 

    Thanks for your question, I forgot to explain this step in my last post.

    For tapering I used the method from the instruction videos - manually sanding with a 120P sanding block and a digital calipper for measuring. For the fine sanding I've used 2 types of sanding lists - 220P and 320P. I agree this is not the best technique, but for know I don't have any electric tools, such a driller or lathe to speed up the process.

    About the stains - two layers with Occre's walnut stain, but wait after each layer to completely dry off. Then one layer with Occre's satin varnish. And at the end I've used steel wool to polish the completed spars and to make them smooth and even.

    Feel free to ask me anything if you have another questions, Rick. I am very happy that my log actually helps other people to build their kits. Your Polaris also looks fantastic, I really like the different stains you've used.

 

Regards,

Ilia

 

Edited October 19, 2022 by ibozev

[Cathead]

Great to see your interest in understanding how things actually worked, I'm the same way. Can't just build blind, want to actually understand.

[Brumby]

Ilia, I've been lurking in your blog for months, as I work my way through Polaris too.  I'm impressed with your meticulous work... I feel I'm being extremely cautious in my work but it's easy to see you're on another level.  Thank you for being my guide!

 

I initially glued my gaffs and boom but they had a very weak connection and snapped off the first time I tried to work them.  So I glued again and they snapped off again.  Now they're hoisted with just the rigging and they look great, except for the glue stains.  So if you haven't already, I recommend skipping the glue.

 

Since you seem to be braver about going off-script than me, I have a question for you.  My next task is rigging the boom to the deck and the instructions have a pretty taut setup.  I think it would be fun to allow the boom to swing a little... but leaving some slack in the sheet looks messy (and the gaff rigging up high isn't as tight as it could be).  Any thoughts on if this is worthwhile and, if so, how to store/secure the sheet so it doesn't look like a jumbled knot?   

 

 

[ibozev]

Hello Brumby and thanks for your comment!

 

Currently I'm still working on the standing rigging. It took me more time than I expected not only because I'm trying to do it properly,  but also because I have to do other more important things at home and don't have enough time for my Polaris right now. Hopefully will post an update in the upcomming weekends.

 

Thanks for your advice about the gaffs and booms, I already decided NOT to glue them to the masts and use only the halyards on purpose to haul them.

 

And about your question. I believe you are talking about the "boom braces", which have the purpose to swing the boom and control spanker's position into or off the wind. My understanding is that all braces must be rigged taut. Maybe you could swing the boom at a certain angle if you want, but after that the braces should be rigged tight. Most probably I will position mine athwartship and eventually will try to bend only the sails to make an illusion they are curved from the wind.

 

Again, this is my opinion and understanding, I'm not 100% sure about that. The question is pretty good and if somebody else knows the right answer, it will be helpful for me also!

 

Edited November 24, 2022 by ibozev

[Brumby]

First, I apologize for my novice vocabulary, I'm still pretty new at this. And you make a great point... I should have known the braces must be taut, otherwise the wind would blow the boom all over the place. So, with that in mind, perhaps I'll think about a cleat on each gunwale (or maybe the deck) that would allow for the boom to be drawn to either side. I need about five hands to take a great photo of what I'm thinking but hopefully this one gets the idea across.  Thanks!

[ibozev]

Yes, on the real ships or schooners (and also on the more accurate models) I am pretty sure there is a pin on the pinrail or a cleat where to belay these ropes. On my Polaris maybe I will just make a simple overhand knot at the end of the line just below the bottom block, which is for sure not the best solution.

[ibozev]

Standing rigging is done and yes it was a challenge!

 

    First - the bobstay. I installed a block to one of the ends of the chain, but after seizing I didn't cut the extra rope, just left it to use directly for the tackle. I don't like the method from the instructions where they tie the standing end just below the block and then reeve it through the other block:

    The other end of the chain I mounted directly to the eyebolt on the stem and assembled the tackle. The overhand knot at the working end is for sure not to best solution, but I didn't found any accurate information about how it should be done properly.:

    Then i continued with the fore and main stays and the shrouds. For all of them I used the same seizing technique to attach them to the masts. Yes this method is for sure not the fastest, but the end result is really authentic:

    And now the shrouds... Well this step was one of the trickiest so far, because several things should be considered. First of all the masts should be athwartship so the shrouds tension on each side must be equal.  Second, all shrouds should have the same length, respectively all lanyards also. Third, the shrouds must be rigged alternately. If any of these are not met, there is a chance to tilt any of the masts and ruin the overall look. So be careful and take your time, don't rush here!

I will not go so much in details, explaining the lanyards rigging, instead I'm attaching a screenshot from San Diego Ship Modelers Guild:

    Yes, I know it is frustrating, but believe me the end result looks so much better on the model, rather than the method showed in the instructions. One note here - for all shrouds I used only the starboard technique. And this is practically the result on my Polaris:

    One more tip how to make the lanyards the same length - make a "deadeye gauge" and use it as a measuring tool when securing the upper deadeye to the shrouds:

    After the masts shrouds I completed the standing rigging with the bowsprit shrouds. Here I used a similar "measuring tool" from a single brass wire just to make them equal:

    And the standing rigging is done. Next steps will be the running rigging and the sails. So far so good!

Edited November 27, 2022 by ibozev

[BobG]

Very nicely done, Ilia!

[ibozev]

    One mistake that I just noticed. The main shrouds on the starbord side were twisted... You can see this on the last image from my previous post:

    Luckily the CA on this lanyard wasn't too much and I was able to fix the shroud without any damage.

    So in addition, this is another (forth) thing to take care of when rigging the shrouds. 🙂

Edited December 1, 2022 by ibozev

[Cpt. Jack]

Some very impressive and hugely helpful work (as always), Ilia. What would you say is your go-to reference material for rigging? Thanks for creating such a comprehensive log that has been a huge guide for me, and for others too it seems! I really look forward to seeing whatever project you take on next; any ideas? 

 

[ibozev]

    Thanks for your kind words Jack, I really appreciate it!

    For the moment I'm using two main resources for a rigging reference - Frank Mastini's book and the wonderful Olha Batchvarov YouTube channel. For sure this is not enough for all the details, that can bring the model to a whole new level, but for a first ship it's more than enough, I think.

    I am planning to buy some books, written specifically for rigging, but this will be after finishing my Polaris - probably before my next build. You can see in Olha's channel there is a separate section for book reviews, where I found out about both Lennarth Petersson's books (Rigging Period Ships Models) and The Art Of Rigging by George Biddlecombe. Probably I will buy any of these books somewhere in the future.

    I haven't choosen a specific model for my next build yet. I am hesitating between two options - any masterpiese from Chris' Vanguard models or OcCre again. Probably it will be another, but more challenging, ship from OcCre and for my third build I will jump to Vangard models.

    The bad news is that my next build won't start until 2024 for sure, because next year I'm planning a major renovation of my house and this project will take at least an year. But for sure this will be the perfect time for research and reading through this wonderful forum. 🙂

Edited November 30, 2022 by ibozev