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Posted (edited)

Or does it matter?  I am working at the bow. I just don't know and ashamed to even ask

Edited by rudybob
typo
Posted

You might try a search on spile. There are a number of pretty good discussions on the process around.

 

Short answer, Both top and bottom sides will likely be tapered and curved (spiled) to get a good fit.

My Current Project is the Pinky Schooner Dove Found here: Dove Build Log

 

Previously built schooners:

 

Benjamin Latham

    Latham's Seine Boat

Prince de Neufchatel

Posted

Builder's choice on this.  I've even seen some to "top" and "bottom".

Mark
"The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me

Current Build:                                                                                             
Past Builds:
 La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD           Triton Cross-Section   

 NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit                                                                            HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64               

 

Non-Ship Model:                                                                                         On hold, maybe forever:           

CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed                                                   Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned)         

         

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                

Posted

Rudybob: There's no shame in asking. There is lots of information on this site as well as folks to help you out. We've all been there!

Be sure to sign up for an epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series  http://trafalgar.tv

Posted

The tutorials for spiling  by David Antscherl or the heated edge bending by Chuck Pasarro show that the top and bottom curve.

As to asking for help, after 40 plus years of scratching I still find myself asking what I feel are basic questions at times so fear not. If you cannot find an answer with doing your own research, MSW has always been a great place to get questions answered.  

Allan

Posted (edited)
Quote

Do I spile the top(upside) of the plank or the bottom(downside)

Both, in a sense. 

Normally you would be tracing the edge of a plank that is already in place, it could be the top or the bottom. 

David Antscherl's paper shows doing this with dividers.

image.png.89ab2a46e91f7adc26d033f47897184c.png

I use masking tape.

The traced edge of the new plank should match the existing plank perfectly.  You will then establish the shape of the other edge of the new plank based on the width desired.  It may taper toward the bow or widen toward the stern.  Once in place,  the open edge will be traced for the next plank.

When there is only enough space for one ( the final ) plank, then the edges of the planks above and below the space will be traced to create a plank that fills the space ( hopefully ) perfectly.

 

With the edge bending method, I would establish the width and tapering of the plank before bending.

 

Edited by Gregory

“Indecision may or may not be my problem.”
― Jimmy Buffett

In Progress:  HMS Resolution ( AKA Ferrett )

On Hold:    Rattlesnake

In the Gallery: Yacht Mary,  Gretel, French Cannon

Posted (edited)

Thanks all. I did searching, reading and testing prior to posting. I got to a point  that no matter how long and hard I looked and thought I hit a wall on this.  I was shaving the top...no reason I can't do both depending what my eyes tell me

Edited by rudybob
typo
Posted

For carvel, I have seen a snake-like spilling pattern on a wide board.

For clinker   I am thinking that only the edge that is overlapped is spilled?

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

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