HMS Victory by Twahl - Heller - 1/100 - PLASTIC

[Twahl]

So at the encouragement of others on this site I have decided to start my own build log.  I've been a lurker on other builds for a while now, especially Dafi's and Bill97. I'm going to have a ton of questions and need a lot of advice so as to avoid hijacking those threads I'll ask here.  I'm hoping to provide enough of a step by step on this build to help others, as others have already helped me immensely.  I'm not certain my work will be as good as theirs though.  

 

Before I begin I'll give a little background on myself.  I've been out of modeling for over 30 years and just recently got back into it to spend more time with my teenage boy.  We started building the Revell 1/72 Gato together and it accomplished exactly as I was hoping, much needed quality time together.  His interests quickly turned to airplanes so he abandoned me to work on his own projects leaving me to finish the Gato by myself.  We sit together though with him on his airplanes and me on my boats.  

 

When I was a teenager I started the 1/96 Uss Constitution and got to the point of rigging when my little brother and his friend decided to take it outside and use it for a BB gun target.  In my memory I remember the build being museum quality.  In actually it probably looked like it was built with construction adhesive and crayons. I've always wanted to try my hand at building a tall ship again and after finishing the Gato I was looking for another kit and came across the Heller Victory.  I watched a ton of videos on YouTube and decided to give it a go.

 

I live in a rural part of Utah in the U.S. so everything I do has to be mail order.  The kit arrived in the mail and I quickly thought I might have but off a bit more than I can chew.  Especially after looking at Hellers instructions, if you can call them that.  I definitely want to make the best model possible so I immediately ordered the Dafi etch set. I ordered all except the grates. It arrived in the mail yesterday and it is absolutely amazing. I'm not necessarily worried about making an exact historical replica. I just want it to be close for the casual observer and look good.  

 

I've begun the kit now and will post pictures in the next post of my progress.  I'm still working full time as a law enforcement Officer so I won't be able to work on and post a much as others, but by little steps I'll finish the kit. I look forward to all of the help, advice and especially encouragement that I've already seen from this group. 

[Twahl]

When the kit arrived I was anxious to open the box and examine what I was getting into.  I was surprised to see that it was all molded in a single color, not the multi colored molds I've seen. 

[Twahl]

I was excited to get started so I did like most others and set to work building the cannons.  I spent two nights building the cannon and bases. After the second night I realized it might be time to get some reading glasses.  Especially before I get to things with real detail.  

 

I got in touch with Dafi and ordered up a set of photo etch and a few resin pieces.  While waiting for that I got to work prepping the stern and cutting off the rigols.  I also thickened the gun ports with evergreen.  

[Twahl]

So when i got back into modeling I told the wife that it would be a lot cheaper than my other hobby of collecting firearms.  In the last month and a half I've spent over $800 USD on this hobby including the kit, photo etch, paints, and books such as Longridge, rigging period ships and HMS Victory first rate. My wife is a CPA that owns her own firm so she's extremely busy with tax season right now and luckily has not been tracking what I've been up to. I need to hurry up and order blocks and ropes before she gets back to tracking me.  

 

The photo etch arrived in the mail yesterday.  This stuff is absolutely incredible! I did quite a bit of photo etch on the Gato and Dafi's stuff is far superior.  

[Twahl]

I got the rigols installed and am now stuck on whether to go with the "old" Victory colors or the"new" ones.  I tried a test spot with Vallejo Flat flesh and Revell aqua African brown which I had read somewhere was close to what the new color is now.  I'm not sure I like it so I've ordered Vallejo Yellow Ochre to try as well.  What color do you guys think? The Africa brown looks like the molded plastic and is hard to see.  I think for the black I'm going with Nato black or Vallejo black Grey for scale effect.  

[Twahl]

So that's the progress so far.  Now for the questions. 

 

First is what color do you think I should go with?  I haven't seen a completed model in the new colors yet so I'm not sure how it will look.  My intent is to make the model appear as a working ship with light weathering and such.  

 

Second I'm ordering the Amati rope kit from hismodel along with his gun rigging kit.  I'm planning on ordering the other ropes such as the anchor rope and stays from Syren. What sizes are appropriate for this kit? 

 

I'll post further when I make progress.  Thanks in advance for the help.  

[Ian_Grant]

Twahl, looks like I get to be the first one to pull up a chair and follow you.

 

Great start, with gunport lid rope holes drilled out!  Molded all in one colour? First time I ever heard of that. Must be new. Or maybe not so new, I bought my kit with some parts molded in a vivid red in 1982 but didn't start it for decades.

 

I enjoyed your comment about your wife not tracking your expenditures, for now 😄.

 

I painted mine before they decided that she was painted wrong so mine is yellow ochre. It's your model so you should do whatever pleases you.

 

You mentioned you have Longridge. He gives rope and block sizes for each rigging line in his text. Note that he follows the marine custom of giving rope size in circumference. All you have to do is divide each mention of a rope by 100 x PI. Or you can PM me your email address, if you like,  and I can send you a spreadsheet I made with all the rigging line and block scale sizes. Bill and Kevin took a copy but don't know if they really used it 😕. I compiled it to save me flipping through the book all the time.

 

Good luck with your build! I will enjoy reading your log, as with all other Victory logs.

 

 

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Me next! I’m sticking with the yellow ochre. When I visited what’s left of the ship last year I found the ‘original’ flesh colour a bit too nondescript to be even tempted to switch. But as Ian says, seriously, do whatever pleases you. Ian’s spreadsheet is mighty useful - I did use it Ian, based my deadeyes and blocks on that but I just haven’t got that far yet to be using blocks and tackle!

 

A tip re’ the Vallejo yellow ochre. If you’re going to be air-brushing it, add a generous dose of Vallejo flow improver. Of all the Vallejo colours I’ve now used, the yellow ochre was the one that gave me the most headaches. It could be that my airbrush, being cheap, is more susceptible to clogging but flow improver makes a big difference.

 

You look like you’re going to be another fast builder, like Bill, and I too will enjoy seeing yours come together. I don’t think I’ll be going back to mine for maybe another year or two as I want to build the Kearsage once I finish the Cutty Sark.

[Paul Jarman]

Looks like It's me next. I agree stick with the yellow ochre. The problem I see with  the flesh Colour is that I have never seen a painting of Victory in anything other than yellow ochre. Surely all the artists of the time would be painting her true to life as they saw her. I am of the opinion that the flesh colour that was discovered was possibly an undercoat or the original Colour she was going to be painted untill someone realised how silly it would look.

That PE looks very good quality. I will be following your build.

I was building this kit myself some years ago. But have to admit that the instructions beat me and I gave up on it.

Paul

[Kevin-the-lubber]

The current colour kind of depends on the light. It’s supposed to be a light yellow against dark grey, though appeared vaguely cream with pink tones to me. But who am I to argue with the experts and I’ll take their word for it that this was the colour scheme at trafalgar. However, there are 70 odd others coats and my guess is that, within reason, any shade of yellow will have had its day. Just pick one you like!

[Bill97]

 Now me!  In 4th Place!  I did not get gold, silver, or bronze!  First off. Yes Ian I am using your spread sheet. I open it on my laptop each and every time I reach for a spool of rigging thread. Tawhl if you get this from Ian you will find it extremely helpful. Scan through it before you order your line to see sizes and quantities.

 

Tawhl (let us know your first name if you like) I think you are getting a great start. I am surprised as well at everything being molded in the same color. I got mine in the summer of 2019 (didn’t start my build to much later) and it is molded in various colors. I am curious which instructions you got with it? 

 

You definitely are going to have to hide some receipts from the CPA! 😁

You are going way above where I went. I especially will be following your build to see the use of after market things I did not use. Something you will need to decide on early is if you are going to use the kit provided display stand or custom make something. Once you glue the hull halves together you will need to proceed with the stand. I noticed you attached the rigors to the hull already. What is your plan as far as their color when finished?  You plan to just paint them the color of he ship at their location? Speaking of color I ultimately went with 50/50 Vallejo yellow ochre and Vallejo brown ochre. One is a Model Air and one is Model Color. I had a bigger empty paint bottle and just emptied a bottle of each color into it and shook it up. When ever I need that color I just reach for the bigger bottle. Like Kevin said, it will be best to add some thinner and flow improver if you want to spray it. Also if you want to go all out and put the copper tape on the hull like I did you can find that on Amazon. Of course you can go all out and get hundreds of actual little copper plates. 

 

Tawhl i I think that is it for now. Like Ian said I have my chair pulled up and watching your build. 

 

Welcome to the Victory

 

Bill

[dafi]

Hello Tom,

 

nice to see you here! Great start and keep on having fun modeling, that is all it is about 🙂

 

All the best, Daniel

[Twahl]

Thank you for the replies. Last night I tried painting one of the gun carriages with the new color and my little girl came up and asked if it was silly putty. That settled that. It will for sure be the yellow ochre now.  I just need to wait for it to get here in the mail.  

 

Ian I would greatly appreciate the spread sheet.  I am no good at math so it will be a life saver.  I'll PM my info.  

 

I'm planning on painting the rigols with the normal painting of the ship so as to appear as normal.  I'm probably going to do a little weathering around them, like salt water runoff like I've seen on some pics of the actual ship.  The plans it came with are the crappy hard to read ones.  I wish I could find a source on the new wire bound ones.  They look like they would actually be a good set but from what I've found they aren't available in the US. 

 

Thanks again for all the kind words.  Oh and my name is Tom.  

[Landlubber Mike]

That photo etch looks fantastic.  Will turn that nice kit into a really beautiful build.

 

On the colors and having trouble with Vallejo Yellow Ochre, consider whether it makes sense to put down a primer layer first.  From my limited experience with plastic models, some colors are more difficult than others.  Yellows and reds come to mind.  Not only is a primer coat beneficial for even coverage, but the underlying color will affect how the yellow and red come out.  Undercoat color especially matters when it comes to reds.  

[Kevin-the-lubber]

52 minutes ago, Twahl said:

little girl came up and asked if it was silly putty

Well there you go, out of the mouths of babes etc.

[Bill97]

Twahl you may check this site for the new instructions. 
 

https://www.super-hobby.com/products/HMS-Victory-Brochure.html

[JEFFRAV]

Hi Twahl just started my Ship build log. Your ship is looking good. 

[Bill Morrison]

Tom,

 

I am formerly a teacher and professor of history, so I typically go with where the research leads. However, I also know that research has limitations, and I haven't seen enough to convince me that the new colors are correct. For example, the Victory is a notoriously long-lived ship that has undergone many alterations, even before Trafalgar.  I haven't seen enough evidence to indicate that this "new" color was the color scheme at Trafalgar.  However, every period or near period painting shows her in distinctive yellow ochre stripes. So, I will stick to the traditional yellow ochre on my model.

 

Your daughter seems most astute!

 

Bill

[Rob S]

Tom - Welcome aboard! I started the Heller Victory in the early nineties, but alas never finished it. I’m looking forward to following along with your build. Finally, thank you for your service!

 

Cheers, Rob S.

[Twahl]

Thank you Rob.  I really appreciate it. This last week or so progress has been slow. I've had to put in a lot of overtime at work for a case we fortunately don't get very often around here.  I got my copy of McKay's book in the mail to add to my collection.  Thank you Bill for the lead on the new instruction manual.  I got that ordered up and it should be here this week. I got the hull halves painted in Vallejo Yellow Ochre and Vallejo black gray. I sealed it with Allclad flat clear lacquer.  The red was a lot more complicated than I thought it would be.  I forgot how hard it is to make red look good.  In the end I think it came out okay.  

[Twahl]

I've been working on the stern the last couple days.  I started by spraying it all in the yellow ochre.  I figured black would cover the yellow better than the other way around.  I painted it all freehand with a 00 tip brush.  The mold from Heller wasn't as crisp and precise as I would have liked but I guess it's a good as can be expected.  I added Dafi's resin balusters and sealed it with Alclad. I still need to add the name and window glazing from Dafi's etch set and then do some paint touch up.  

[Kevin-the-lubber]

You’ve made a good job of the stern, Tom. It’s a shame the moulding is not quite sharp; even more so that this whole section isn’t multi-part, with the builder in mind. If Heller ever re-mould I hope they do that.

 

I’ll be very interested in your view on the new instructions, once you receive them. 

[Bill97]

Looking great Twahl. I will be curious as well what you think of the new instructions. I have the new Heller instructions with my Soleli Royal which I have yet to start. Definitely looks better than my current Victory instructions. 

[Twahl]

Got the new instructions today.  They are night and day better.  It actually makes the model less daunting.  They appear to follow a more logical build path as well.  The rigging instructions are much better. The lines are all labeled as to where they go but some of them cover multiple pages of instruction.  Overall I think it will be much better.  

[Twahl]

Finished the stern and side galleries.  At least as far as can be before installation.  

[Kevin-the-lubber]

Looking good. You’ve reminded me that I really need to paint my trophy of arms at some point!

[dafi]

Wonderful work! Congratulations for the result 🙂

 

All the best, DAniel

[Twahl]

Got a fair amount done this weekend.  It was rainy and cold so I was able to get a bit accomplished.   Got the launches assembled and painted up.  I still need to weather them.  Painted up the bow decorations as well.  Just like the stern the moldings aren't very defined so had to improvise a little.  I wasn't able to make it match the real ship as it's not an accurate mold, but I can live with it.  I joined the hull halves and painted the bottom.  I'm still not certain how I'm going to mount it on the display board so I epoxied in a block to be able to drill into if I decide to go the turned brass pedestal route.  Mounted the first two gun decks with cannons and am now up to the third gun deck. That's all the progress for now.  

[Twahl]

I have a question.  I need to order some ropes up from Syren. What size should I order for the anchor rope and for the main stays?

[Ian_Grant]

In scale, the fore and main stays are 1.6mm, their preventers are 1.3mm.

Fore and main topmast stays 0.75mm, preventers 0.5mm.

Main and fore shrouds 1.0mm, topmast shrouds 0.5mm.

 

Anchor cable was 27 inches in real life, which is 2mm at scale.

 

Keep up the great work!