Wasa by md1400cs - FINISHED - Corel - 1:75

[Karleop]

Hola Michael:

 

I am sending you the drawings of the BB Wasa, I am not sure if they are correct or not (as many other parts in the instructions), but anyway is better something than nothing.

 

 

 

 

Saludos, Karl

[md1400cs]

Karl,

 

Thanks again! yes I think that this would be the easiest to do

I will add two blocks below the fore and main upper platforms, then just drill a hole near the tops of the fore and main upper masts.

There should be a sheave also inserted - don't think so - already too much to think about. - All of this rigging is very new to me, especially if I add sails. I am, however enjoying the learning--AND the help

 

Muy amable de tu parte para ayudar de nuevo (:-)

 

PS: Going to Colombia in a couple of weeks need to practice my Spanish 

 

Cheers

 

 

[EJ_L]

I have been having the same issues with rigging La Couronne. Anderson's books have been an invaluable resource and while they contradict the drawings from Corel at almost every step, I am trusting to their accuracy more so than the plan sheets. I have also been taking a lot of ideas from the Vasa and it's museum model. While they still may not be completely accurate to French practices or specifically the ones used on La Couronne, they are similar enough as the French based a lot of their design on the Dutch and the time period and style of ship are the same. I also have your great build and log to help guide me and discover the ways I do and do not want to do something.    At the end of the day I am still just guessing but I try to make it as educated as possible.

[md1400cs]

EJ,

 

Yes, many (some) of us probably rig 16th and 17th century ships with some "ball park" guesses; nature of the hobby given that it was not until later that builders used master plan sheets that survive today as references. I'm thinking of the HMS Victory et, al--

 

Anderson is certainly our best "bible" his work certainly is based on as accurate as possible historical notations. That said I would think it nearly visually impossible to "eyeball" a completed three mast model ship and determine if lines are connected to wrong pins one-way-or-another (well for me anyway (:-) )

 

For now I'm much more comfortable with wood and paint than with rigging - maybe after this learning curve it will become easier for the two or so waiting under the table. One of which will involve copper plates - can't wait to learn how to do that correctly ha has.

 

As usual thanks for your kind words and following along...

 

Cheers

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

First thanks for dropping by and the likes. AND

 

Lawrence, I just don’t know how to respond. Your post is well so touching indeed. I am so pleased that you have found this build a pleasure to follow – however slowly it has evolved.

 

Your words are so encouraging; we have all seen builds that make our jaws drop here at MSW. For you to place some of my work on that level, well it’s touching indeed. BIG thanks.

 

PS: I think, by-the-way that you finished your entirely awesome HMS Victory in the time that it took me just to make the crows nests (;-)

 

===============================

 

Minor update on upper foremast;

 

Mistake;

Deadeyes were way too large for the upper platform. I learned through a posting that deadeyes should be about half the width of a corresponding mast. That (in scale) is almost impossible to do – that said my use of the same size deadeyes as with the lower shrouds was all wrong; lack of foresight.

 

So pulled them out, had to make up some smaller chainplates. Used wire that was then joined together with CA Gel glue, and painted flat black. Not correct – but such a minor area that will become lost in the aggregate.  So fixed that.

 

 

Then Karl was helpful and led me in the right direction regarding the upper yard hailing rope bit. I took it a step further and decided (right or wrong) to add a sheave within the upper mast. I assumed (there’s that word again) that a sheave was probably how it was done. Though Anderson does not make that specific detail clear (I might have missed that text?)

 

  

 

Foremast all done now onto putting the upper main bits together THEN attaching the two other uppers at once.

 

Getting a bit nervous regarding that swing-arm light. In a nightmare to be I was thinking of hanging a large double fluorescent fixture with chains from the ceiling of my son’s room.

 

 He’s no longer on my payroll !!J , and I use a corner of that room as my shipyard. Notice the nightmare idea. The admiral would force me to walk the plank for sure.

 

PS: Not complaining lucky to have the space, I know that some builders need to move their work after each session, but lighting needs to be re-visited. Bowsprit and upper fore just for this photo - not installed.

 

[EJ_L]

I have a similar problem coming up on my build with the lamp arm. One thing I have done which has helped in the past is to mount the base of the arm on the side of a forward corner. This still allows it to swing to all the places that I need but also keeps it in front of the ship so there is less chance of it hitting a mast. Combining that with the lights on my OptiVisor, I am usually covered for safe lighting. 

 

Another option you could try would be to mount the base on the wall higher than your model. Then you can pull the light down and the arm swing should be above all your work instead of next to or behind it.

[Tigersteve]

Just went through your log. Inspiring work. Nicely done!

Steve

[Karleop]

Hola Michael:

I find this picture of the Wasa Museum, and regarding the upper yard hailing rope you are right. If you make a zoom on the picture you can see (unfortunately not very clearly) a sheave for the hailing rope.

 

 

Saludos, Karl

 

 

 

[md1400cs]

Karl,

 

Thanks for confirming this. Much appreciated - como siempre...

 

Played around with the jpg in iPhoto and yes that opening in the mast is very clearly evident, along with a sheave.

 

Charter33 (Graham) thank you for your nice words, and welcome aboard. I'm glad that we found each other's logs (:-)

 

[lambsbk]

I don't know Michael, but when all is said and done I'll bet your model is going to be more accurate and precise compared to the museum pieces. You are taking such care to follow the research. Well done mate.

 

Dave

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Thanks for the likes much appreciated.

 

Tigersteve thanks for your kind words.

 

Dave We shall see – thanks – I am enjoying the learning of how these ships were made to function – sort of “state of the art” technology of their days. Which as ours does today changes as more is learned.

 

Parenthetically, we are certainly, today, spoiled by comparison. When I was working and having to cross the Atlantic from LAX to LHR in a 747 at 36,000 feet. Champagne in hand CD player [yes CD player J] and Sony headphones around my ears, looking down at the ocean –it struck me that C Columbus in his wildest magic mushroom dreams could NEVER imagine  - ever – this reality of a crossing.

 

The joke is now, of course – that in a 100 years from now travellers will look at antique digital flashes of history and laugh about people having to spend 16 hours, packed with 450 others in an Airbus A380 just to get to Australia ha ha ……

 

My father was in the airline business for most of his life – I followed and worked as a pilot for quite a few years. (Champagne was when I was just sitting doing nothing)

 

==============================

 

 

Back to business: I’m sure that I’m “preaching to the choir” here, but wanted to share some techniques that you prob. are already using – but here goes.

 

1) For threading deadeyes (or any rope for that matter) I first use Gorilla Gel, and run a bead at one of the ends of a rope. Then as I clean off the excess glue (thumb and forefinger with a cloth), I twist the rope ends tighter into their turns - as I’m pulling the rope through the cloth. 

 

This results in a hard “needle like” - tip after the glue dries. Then nip the ends to create a thinner entry point making threading deadeyes much easier. It also allows using ropes that are larger and possibly more to scale.

 

The big eye needle (I have not tried) it would seem would require a thinner scale rope because as you pull the needle out the inserted line then doubles over as it is pulled through the deadeye –??

 

 

To secure the deadeye ropes

 

First I insert (in this case) a thread between the doubled tied shroud, looping it twice. Then, twice wrap the deadeye rope around its shroud; hold it in place, and securing it with a bit of G-S Hypo Cement. Let it set then. The last bit is then very simple just run the left over rope through the two thread spools, tighten and nip.

 

 

OOPS mistake – should have done this work for the mizenmast before securing it to the ship. Hmmm grrr - Still learning protocols.

 

 

Learned that not all deadeyes are created equally. In the future need to look through more carefully making sure that eyelets are more equally spaced before attaching to shrouds. Yes I did finally realize that rotating them does help.

 

Also the upper mast rigging work is easily done at the bench – I have not yet tried working with the other shrouds already on the ship Hmmm?

 

OH !!! Ferit, as I have mentioned before you are the one that introduced me to G-S Hypo Cement SO perfect. Thanks again.

 

Apologize about the long opening personal notes in this post J

 

 

Cheers,

[Ferit]

You're welcome Michael.

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

Well I am partially “confused”. Returning to the bowsprit area, for my first attempts at securing the deadeye ropes, and then actually starting the ratlines.

THEN - JanV was right – way back – when he posted, “how will you remember where all of those pre- attached bowsprit mast ropes are supposed to go”?

Now working from the Vasa museum rigging sheet, the Billings sheet, and the Corel -no sails - sheet just don’t know what I’m doing right or wrong ha ha ..

AND Fred Hocker recently posted that the Vasa Museum rigging plan sheet is wrong and is no longer being sold. The Vasa II book will have the correct rigging plans within – a book that is already two years beyond its promised publication date L

 

Updated pics. Need to add a fid for the flagpole? Probably.

 

As a novice, I thought that pre-attaching the blocks and lines would be easier before securing the mast to the bow.

That said I am actually moving forward – now that part is satisfying.

I did finish the upper main platform and added the rat lines (crosstree blocks are missing – I just realized as well) well at least those will be easy.

 

Finished the mainmast upper platform, and discovered that several blocks are also missing at the already installed crosstree for the lower main platform– grrr

These learning experiences are actually valuable as often as I include -grrrr - in my remarks, The next build will benefit from these learning experiences.

 

Cheers mates,

 

 

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Continuing work on the upper main mast, putting all of the bits together, time consuming work that seems as if nothing is really moving forward. But enjoying this part of the build.

 

I found a photo (can’t seen to locate it now) but on this model the fid had a rope attached to it and was then attached to a shroud at the platform. Hmm made sense.

 

So, decided to follow that idea and did the same for the main upper mast.

 

 

 

The sheaves that I added near the tops of each mast were very out of scale. It looks as if I took too much “meat” out of each mast when adding the sheaves. So decided (incorrectly) to add side reinforcement bits on the sides.

 

 

 

Same problem with upper foremast – but too late for a “fix”

 

 

Thought that I would also do minor reshaping of the blocks, I have seen models that actually have blocks that appear narrower on the upper and lower sides.

 

 

FYI’s bought a new lamp. Excellent. It has three levels of brightness. LED, of course, and 6000k daylight. Very light repeated taps on that circle at the outer top adjusts the light; from Amazon.

 

As always thanks for dropping by, the likes and your kind posts.

 

PS: Really enjoying the last season of Black Sails……

 

Cheers,

[Tigersteve]

Excellent work! What's the link for the LED lamp you bought?

Steve

[md1400cs]

Thanks Steve,

 

here;

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FDD79AW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[fmodajr]

Hi Michael,

 

I hope all is well!

 

Thanks for the information on the lamp. I am ordering one today!

For the "Black Sails" last season, I will have to wait until the DVD comes out. I can't wait!

 

Frank

[Tigersteve]

I just ordered the lamp also!

Steve

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Glad that you thought, as I did, that the lamp is excellent for our purposes. I also posted it on "What have you received today?"

" (:-) Seems to be a good idea there as well. I've had it for  a week or so Really liking the extra outdoor light that it projects.

PS: Not so sure about all of the new white everywhere at MSW so far. Poor tired old eyes. Where's the Night Shift option?? ha ha 

 

Cheers,

Edited February 23, 2017 by md1400cs

[puckotred]

7 hours ago, md1400cs said:

 

PS: Not so sure about all of the new white everywhere at MSW so far. Poor tired old eyes. Where's the Night Shift option?? ha ha 

 

Cheers,

Bottom left: Theme. Choose "Engraved"

[md1400cs]

Yes, thanks I realized that a bit later. As we (most of us) all know; "after all else fails, then read the instructions". 

Chuck had posted a "how to" for the site updates. that I, of course, did not read First!

cheers,

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

Well this update, for me is actually mostly satisfying.

 

Built two more platforms, and caps

Installed all of the topmasts

Started some ratlines

Made another mouse for the mainmast stay.

Served the mainmast stay, and the block rope on the foremast

Re-worked a Corel triple, and double block

Many new blocks tweaked and attached.

Attached the double pulley at the base of the foremast for the mainmast stay, and attached the triple block.

 

===================

 

A few Grrrrrrs, of course, main topmast sheave cutout should have been angled inward, lack of foresight.

 

Main cap doesn’t quite “sit” right

Mizenmast cap is too close to its platform

Mouse should be, as you know, a woven affair.

 

What I made is obviously incorrect. I saw how to do it correctly on another’s build log. Hmm my skill set not there.

 

Always nice of you to drop by, and thanks for the encouraging notes – much appreciated.

Cheers,

 

 

 

 

 

[Karleop]

Hola Michael:

very nice advances and don't worry about the grrrrrrrrrrs always happens and in your case are minor.

Saludos, Karl

[baskerbosse]

Hi Michael,

 

It's looking really great!
Amazing work!

One question; I see you tried the main stay around the bowsprit, then decided against it?
Which rigging plan are you rigging from?
I believe the latest one hasn't been published yet (caught up in funding bureaucracy)
 

Keep up the great work!

Cheers,

Peter

[woodo]

Great build Michael, following with great interest and pleasure .

 

I am not sure, but I thought I have seen a message stating that you do not use glue but use nails instead.

Is that the case ?

What ever your answer is, it is still a very remarkable and outstanding model.

 

Cheers,

 

Koen.

[fmodajr]

Michael,

 

Great update ! 

I love the detail you are incorporating and especially the mouse construction!

 

On another note, I am loving the lamp! A lot of light and it is really helping me (with my eyesight issues and all). Thanks for the tip!

 

Frank

[md1400cs]

Karl, thank for that – needed. As always thanks so much for following along.

 

Peter, I meant to add a comment to my post regarding this. All of the plans that I use (Billings, 1981 Museum sheets, Corel, and the 1/10^th all tie that rope to the foremast. Only the Museum’s original ties it to the bowsprit. I also “think” that the new monthly DeAgostini, that uses the 1/10^th as a base, will also tie that rope to the foremast – So I decided to do that as well.

Yes, many of us have been waiting for Vasa II as “the” rigging bible for this ship, but as you note it’s buried in Swedish bureaucracy.  So in the meantime ------it is what it is.

 

Koen, thanks for your very kind words, and thank you for following along. No I do not, principally use nails, but glue for the majority of this build.

The only structural uses of nails were for the first planking as do the vast majority of builders.

 

Frank, as always thanks – Happy that you liked the lamp. I have, in fact, purchased a second one. This one is floor standing and also has five-Kelvin temperatures all dimmable. Moved an old incandescent with this one.

 

https://www.amazon.com/TROND-Gooseneck-Adjustable-Temperatures-Diffusion/dp/B01FDF27R0/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1489181035&sr=8-8&keywords=led+floor+lamps+for+reading

 

MATES I have nothing to do with Amazon or Tron – just really appreciate these two current technology products.

 

As always thanks for all of the nice comments, likes, and for just dropping by.

 

Cheers

[md1400cs]

Hi Mates,

 

So need to work backwards again. Finishing up the mizenmast crow’s feet, now thinking of how to attach the needed futtock stave, and then the light came on.

 

Futtock plate connectors all wrong; need to remove those (what was I thinking) and replace them with small rigging hooks. This will need to be done for all three lower platforms.

 

I did not initially see rigging hooks on Vasa, but certainly what I have is worse because then I can’t continue the crow’s feet to the platforms. Still learning.

 

Topmast platforms will all be OK as is.

 

Cheers,

[EJ_L]

Excellent as always and very life like especially in that last picture. Looks just like you were standing on the deck looking up at it....

 

Nice detail catch there. I never noticed them myself till you pointed it out. Just something more to make your model truly incredible!

[md1400cs]

Mates,

Thanks for your comments always noted.

EJ, I laughed so hard you made my year, and we are only in March. That last photo is actually of the original in the museum. I was, trying to show how mine should actually look like, So perfect - thanks ! 

 

PS: thanks for your alway super nice thoughts!

 

MJD