Rattlesnake by Ed Ku20 - Model Shipways - 1:64

[Ed Ku20]

Introduction

Rattlesnake is my second model build.  I finished Bluenose 1 back in June.  This took me 2 years to finish.  I decided to take a little summer break from modeling before starting Rattlesnake.  I think that it was a good idea to give modeling a rest because I am now very eager to go. 

 

I consider my “official start date” as October 8^th.  In August I completed inventory of the kit.  I also spent a lot of time throughout 2022 studying build logs for Rattlesnake and putting together my own build plan & instructions.  I created an Excel spreadsheet to compare the instruction manual from Model Shipways, the plan I used for Bluenose and several build logs from this MSW website.  Using all this information, I created my own plan. 

 

I thought about purchasing the Bob Hunt Practicum from Lauck Street Shipyard.  But after reading JS Gerson’s build log, I decided not to.  The Mamoli kit seems to be quite different from Model Shipways and I’m not ready to do a major kit-bash.  I do plan on buying the masting & rigging practicum from Lauck Street.  But that’s a ways off!!  I share this thought process for anyone who is considering how to proceed with their own Rattlesnake build.

 

I look forward to sharing my build log with you and I encourage you to share any comments or words of wisdom that will help me with this project!

Thanks!

 

Here are a few pics showing the completed inventory and the kit box cover:

 

 

[Kenneth Powell]

Enjoy this build.

Everyone on this site is helpful and talented.

 - Kenneth

[Ed Ku20]

Hi Kenneth,

Yes, the people on this site are a great help.  Having 1 previous build helps provide confidence, especially at the start of the P-O-B build.  The steps are very similar.  I just checked out your build log.  Looks like you've persevered for a while now!  And the end is drawing near for you.  Your ship looks amazing!  Look forward to following along.

Thanks,

Ed

[Ed Ku20]

STAGE A: FRAMING THE HULL

 

Alright, it’s time to get this party started!  I experienced the same problems that everyone else has documented in their MS Rattlesnake build log.  I’m not going to spend much time on these things, since they’ve been covered extensively by other builders.  For those who are unfamiliar though, things like the fit of the 2 center keel parts are off, bulkheads don’t match the size and shape on the plans and don’t fit into the keel slots properly.  The curve of the Stem does not match the keel.  These are all fixable problems, but it’s too bad that Model Shipways can’t clean this up after all these years!  Oh well, I guess it’s part of the lore of building the MS Rattlesnake!

 

Step 1: Glue the 2 Center Keel Parts & Mark the Bearding Line, WL & extend BHD slot lines

 

The Center Keel parts don’t fit.  It’s important to shim the top and bottom of the slot so the deck level and bottom lines are aligned and even!

 

I also created some of my own problems.  Like snapping off the skinny little peg between BHD C and the fore mast when attempting to dry fit this bulkhead!  I decided to fill this gap with a wider spacer after gluing this BHD in place.

 

Step 2: Prepare the Stem before Installing

 

The Stem does not fit and needs to be sanded very carefully until the shape fits the curve of the keel bow.  I took a little bit off both the stem piece and the keel at the bottom part of the curve until it would lay flush.  I used the new Dremel I got for my birthday last summer to carve the slots for the figurehead.  I used a copy cutout of the stem and some carbon paper to outline the position on both sides.  Then used a jeweler’s saw to rough cut the top section out before carving the slots on each side.

 

Step 3: Glue Stem, 2 Keel Parts & Sternpost to Center Keel

 

I prepared the parts by dry fitting and doing some light sanding.  I also decided to insert a few dowels, as recommended in the instructions, to better secure the parts to the center keel.  I was afraid the thinness of the keel after carving the Rabbet could be a problem.  I used some 3/64” x 5/8” finishing nails as dowels.  I drilled a pair of holes in each of the 4 parts on my drill press.  Then added pilot holes into the center keel using a pin vice after I glued the 4 parts to the center keel.  I use Weldbond glue on all the framing.  When everything was dry and secure, I used Tamiya putty to fill any gaps in the fit.  The instructions say to taper the stem before installing, but I decided it would be better to do this after it was attached to the keel.

 

Pic of the keel after step 3 but before cutting the rabbet

 

Pic showing the nails used as dowels around the keel

 

It's difficult to get a good picture of the tapering of the stem.  But here's a couple of pics.  It widens out to the full 5/32" above the waterline and at the lower curve of the stem.

 

Step 4: Cut the Rabbet

 

On my first ship, this step scared me to death!  It’s still scarry, but considerably easier the second time around.  At least you understand how it’s supposed to work!  I did not go quite the full 1/16” on each side that is required yet.  I’m going to wait until I start fitting the garboard strake to do the final sanding.

 

Pic of the keel after cutting the rabbet

 

The next step is installing the Bulkheads (BHD’s).

[Dave_E]

Hi Ed, just pulled up a chair. 😀

[Keith Black]

 Me too, Ed. 

[Ed Ku20]

Step 5: Install the Bulkheads (BHDs)

 

After removing the BHDs from the thickset I added some leftover 1/16” hull planking stripwood (from my last build) to provide extra support for the upper deck beams.  I placed these on the “hidden” sides of the forward and quarterdeck.  I have to give JPett credit for this tip in his build log.  I also added a strip of painter’s tape to hold the BHD cutouts for these sections.  This is all to help prevent breakage with these fragile parts.  I removed the laser char using my new Dremel with a 120-grit sanding band.

 

The next step was to dry fit the BHDs and use sanding sticks to get the proper fit and alignment.  Sanding sticks fit perfectly into the slots of the bulkheads and keel.  Using more advice from JPett, I used the deck line as the most important checkpoint.  I also sanded the bottom on a few so they stopped at the beard line.  The rest can be fixed later.  Per advice, I marked the WL reference line on the BHD’s, but did not rely on it!

 

Once everything was fitted, sanded or shimmed, I alternated from the center and used Weldbond to glue the BHDs in position.  I like to use the grandkids Lego blocks to get the required 90-degree angles.  Learned this from Dr. Per (Nirvana).

 

Here are pics of the bulkheads glued in place before any “fairing”

[Ed Ku20]

I NEED SOME HELP FROM THE RATTLESNAKE TEAM

 

Old Salt in his build log said; “Shimmed bulkhead I for fairing and the top of bulkhead L so the quarterdeck will be level.”  I have bulkheads on the quarterdeck that need adjusting.  When I look at the blueprint plans it looks to me like the quarterdeck slops slightly toward the center of the ship.  The raised fore deck also does the same, sloping aft toward the center.   See the below pics of my quarterdeck and fore deck.  B, I, J & L are all low.  Or else A, C, K & M are high.  My question is, should I attempt to level these bulkheads or fine tune them into a gentle slope to the center?  The slope from M to I is pretty steep.  What have you guys done about this?  My bulkheads are set so that the gun deck at the bottom of the BHD inserts are all level with the top of the keel.

 

Appreciate any advice!

Ed

 

[Dave_E]

Hi Ed,

 

My ship looks just like yours does. Since we’d have to add material to the low spots, I plan to sand down the high ones. Level fore-aft with a gradual slope to port and starboard from center. Lots of contouring to do on these bulkheads as well for the planking. I wasn’t overly impressed with MS “laser cut” parts that should have been a lot more precise and fit better (in my humble opinion of course).

[Paul Le Wol]

Hi Ed, I am not building the Rattlesnake, but if I was looking at this situation the first thing I think I would do is compare the distance from the top of the false keel to the top of bulkhead I with the measurement in the plans if it is shown. Then adjust that bulkhead as needed. Then using your straightedge adjust the bulkheads between I and M. It looks like K needs some material removed and J needs material added. Can’t see what’s going on with bulkhead L. Then do the same with the foredeck 

[Ed Ku20]

Hi Dave - did you maintain a slope from fore to aft on the quarterdeck?  In other word, even the high/low spots but still have a slope from M down to I near the middle of the ship.  M sits pretty high at the stern of the ship.  It would take a lot to make M level with I.  I don't think there's enough wood on that deck support to even do that!  I think I'm misinterpreting Old Salt's comment on leveling the q-deck.

Yes, I will be sure to maintain the curve toward the port and starboard bulwarks.  Although that will be tricky!

 

Hi Paul, thanks for jumping in.  Unfortunately, this particular model from Model Shipways is notorious for having the laser cut bulkheads not match the measurements on the plans.  I think I'm going to do what you said with adjusting to match a straightedge line from I to M.  Same with A to C, with B needing to be shimmed upwards a bit.  I would like to get some confirmation on this plan from the other Rattlesnake builders before I do anything I'm going to regret later!

[allanyed]

This has been mentioned in other posts so I hope you don't mind it being brought up here as it maybe something to consider for the future.  The Fully Framed Model Volume I, page 142 goes into detail on the taper of the knee of the head as the Swan class ships tapered 60% in width, so pretty noticeable, rather than the knee being grooved to accommodate the figure head legs.    This tapering practice was common on most, if not all, British ships of war, but maybe ships built in New England did not follow this tapering practice.  

Allan

 

 

Edited October 25, 2022 by allanyed

[allanyed]

As you make progress on your model have you been able to check against the contemporary plans held at RMG?   MS has a great reputation for their kits, but it is always nice to have the original plans against which to check and I am curious to see if there are any significant differences. 

 

The RN renamed here Cormorant after they captured her but renamed her Rattlesnake later.   The drawings are labeled Cormorant but are the Rattlesnake built in 1780 in Massachusetts.

 

 www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-84323   Note there are two drawings, the deck plans and the inboard profile and body plan.

 

Allan

[Ed Ku20]

Hi Allan,

The MS plans indicate that the figurehead should straddle the cut-out on the stem.  I also read elsewhere that the taper stops at the waterline.  Based on that and some of the pictures posted by other builders, I carved the stem the way I did.  I hope I have not made a mess of it.  I recall checking out a link to those archived plans in one of the other build logs I read a while back.  I think its funny that the British did not remember that they already had a ship named Cormorant in their fleet and had to change the name back to Rattlesnake!

[allanyed]

2 hours ago, Ed Ku20 said:

The MS plans indicate that the figurehead should straddle the cut-out on the stem. 

Hi Ed,

Sorry, I cannot see this cut-out but it may just be different terminology that we are using.  😀  I am guessing the cut-out you mention is the seat rather than the groove that you carved into the bobstay and lacing piece.   The taper of the knee of the head is multiaxial and varies with the size and era of the ship.  Post Establishment scantlings can be found in Scantlings of the Royal Navy pages 72-76 for various size ships.  They are  from David Steel's Elements and Practice of Naval Architecture 1805 and The Shipbuilder's Repository 1788.  I realize these may be different than found in an American vessel, but I would not be surprised if they were very similar.     The dimensions below are approximate, your ship may have been slightly different.  Note that in the vertical taper that the bottom of the gripe is the same width as the forward end of the keel (which was normally much narrower than the keel midships.)  It looks like you did this from your photos which is great to see.   This means the assembly is narrower than where it fays to the stem at the top, but larger than the forward end of the assembly at the seat.   

2 hours ago, Ed Ku20 said:

I also read elsewhere that the taper stops at the waterline.

I have also seen where it starts other than at the top of the knee of the head.  The main things are that the gripe (and stem) is tapered so it is sided the same as the keel where they meet, the top of the assembly is the same or slightly smaller where it fays to the stem at the top, and there is the taper from the stem to the seat.

 

There is actually a bit more to this, but I hope this helps at least a little.

 

Allan

Edited October 26, 2022 by allanyed

[Ed Ku20]

Hi Allan - Based on your input, I tapered and rounded off what is identified as the Stem in the Rattlesnake instructions/plans all the way up to the top.  This is the area identified as the Bobstay in your drawing.  I might shorten the part that sits in front of the figurehead a little bit further to expose more of his upper body.  I'm afraid to taper that area all the way down.  I think this will affect the bobstay which fits through the hole at the shin of the figure.  Here are a couple of new pics.  It's hard to get a good shot of the taper head on.  I appreciate all of the detail you have provided on this section of the ship.  

 

Thanks,

Ed

 

[Ed Ku20]

Step 7: Cover the Mast Slots

Step 8: Carve Bow Fillers, Full size filler for A-B & Add BHD support blocks

 

I just completed Steps 7 & 8 according to my plan.  Step 6 was to glue in the bulkheads.  I did that previously, but failed to identify it as such with the pictures.  First I covered the mast slots before I added the support blocks.  You can see the repair I had to do to replace the broken piece in front of the Foremast in the last pic.

 

In order to stiffen the hull frame before I did any Fairing, I inserted support blocks between each BHD.   I measured the space between each BHD as precisely as possible using my digital caliper and cut lengths of 3/8" x 1/4" basswood pieces.  These were glued in between each BHD.  I checked and double checked to make sure the 90 degree angle was maintained on both sides of the keel to avoid creating a banana shaped hull!

 

At this time I also carved the Bow Filler Blocks that sit in front of BHD A.  I used copies of the top and side views for these pieces from the plans.  I traced these shapes onto the wood blocks provided in the kit.  I used a combination of razor saw and coping saw to rough cut the shape and then finished with a 120 grit sanding drum & the Dremel for the final shape.  I'm not totally delighted with the results, but I think I will be able to fine tune their shape during fairing.  I think I'm going to need a little wood filler too.  Afterwards I made a full size block to fit between BHD's A-B to provide more surface area for gluing planks around the bow.  These 4 pieces will be glued in before fairing.  I plan to use test battens to see where BHD's need to be shimmed or sanded as I'm fairing.

 

The next step, Step 9, is to carve the Counter Block behind BHD M.  I'm a little nervous about this step as it seems that a lot of other pieces depend on the shape of the counter to be correct!  I'll happily accept any advice from the Rattlesnake seasoned veterans!

 

 

Edited October 30, 2022 by Ed Ku20
Fix alignment of picture

[allanyed]

On 10/28/2022 at 5:56 PM, Ed Ku20 said:

what is identified as the Stem in the Rattlesnake instructions/plans

Good for you working on the tapering!!

 

It is a good idea to cross check a lot of things in some kits just as would be done in a scratch build.  The stem is the part identified in the sketch above.  The assembly of parts forward of the stem is what I believe makes up the knee of the head and is not a part of the stem.  Chock it up to being just a terminology error on the kit maker's part.  

Allan

[Oldsalt1950]

Ed you are progressing just fine. You, as most of us who are building or built Rattlesnake are finding out that just about everything need to be worked on a bit one way or another. Due to the properties of wood, it expands or contract due to humidity, warping is also a factor depending on thickness and grain pattern. It is the nature of the beast. 

 

I hit a wall for a while in my build and decide to take a break in construction. There are areas that will give you headaches trying to get just right. Concerning the quarterdeck, instead of "level" as it slopes p/s and aft/forward, think plumb as in all the bulkheads are the same height. Check your alignment carefully.  

[Ed Ku20]

Step 9: Carving the Counter Block

 

Carving the counter block wasn’t too difficult.  I paid attention to what others have written in their logs.  Make sure the block is long enough to reach from BHD M to the top of the curve in the sternpost.  Be sure to create the slight curve which makes the transom bend slightly around the stern.  I started with cutouts from the plans to pencil in the initial shape on the sides and top of the block.  I left some extra wood for sanding down to the correct size.

 

I used my mini-vise to hold the piece.  I wrapped sandpaper around a couple of different sizes of pvc pipe to get the curved shape across the block.  I used a larger one (~1-1/2” OD) for the initial shape.  I found that a smaller 1-inch pipe allowed me to get the depth of the curve a little deeper in the middle.  I used 80 grit to start and 120 to finish.  Carving the angle on the top edge was a little tricky.  I’ve done quite a bit more sanding and shaping since these initial pictures were taken.  The final shaping will be done when I fair the bulkheads.

 

[Ed Ku20]

Step 10: Carving the Stern Filler Blocks

 

I found that carving these filler blocks was hard to do!!  I traced the initial shape from cutouts off the plans and then used a coping saw/mini-vise to cut off a few chunks of the excess wood.  Thank goodness I bought a Dremel!  I raised clouds of sawdust with the 60 grit sanding drum getting these pieces into shape.  The pictures below show the filler blocks just double-face taped to BHD M.  I don’t know how much more sanding I need to do to allow the planks to bend around this curve!  I think I’m going to have to soak a plank to see if I can get it to bend without breaking.

 

I’d appreciate any comments/advice from everyone.  Do I need to take more wood off?

[Dave_E]

Hi Ed,

 

Nice work! In my humble opinion, your filler blocks are still a little fat. If you were to leave them as is, when you start to plank… you’d see how the nice fair goes to a swelled hind end. I looked at every build plan I could find while doing the stern and all the fillers. I’m still not done… I’m new to the “filler” process. 👍

[Ed Ku20]

Thanks for the feedback Dave! I thought they looked a little fat too, but don't want to take too much off either. You can't put it back! I was looking at the log by Divarty last night. He has a lot of nice pictures of the planked stern. As long as he's done it well. It looks good to me.

 

Enjoy your time in Hawaii.  I'm jealous! 

[Dave_E]

I like Divarty’s build also. Wonder what happened to him. 😕

[Ed Ku20]

Hi Dave,

I put the boys on a sandpaper diet this afternoon and took a couple of pics of the results.  I tried to get a good angle so you can see the profile.  Do they look any better?  My double-faced tape isn't holding the starboard side too well.  I took a lot more wood off, but not sure you can tell from these pics.

 

Also, I identified the wrong build log earlier.  The pictures I liked were by Dimitry Markov from Moscow.  He had a really nice looking Ratt build going, but his last post was in April of 2021.  He took some good pictures!  Too bad he didn't continue.

 

[Dave_E]

Hi Ed,

 

Looks good. I just went ahead and glued mine in today, got tired of that off/dremil/ on/check/off again routine. The way I figure it when it comes time to lay down those first planks there is always going to be something (ie bulkhead, filler etc) that might need a slight adjustment. If we can get close, that’s what counts. 
 

You and I are at about the same place on our builds. I scratch built my anchors and last night turned the square galley stack into a round one. I’ve also been working on the stern piece. I’m about ready to post that work. Nice to have someone who is about the same place on a build to bounce questions off. I’ve got Markov’s build on speed dial also. 👍😀

Edited November 15, 2022 by Dave_E

[Ed Ku20]

Step 11:  Fairing the Hull

 

I completed Step 11 in my build procedure over the last couple of days.  This concludes what I call Stage A: FRAMING the HULL.  Step 11 consists of checking over the bulkheads and then fairing (sanding) the BHD edges to get a flat surface for the planks to be glued on.  Here are the individual tasks I completed in this step. 

 

Step 11:  Check every BHD and then Fair the hull

a.       Bearding Line – make sure it’s deep enough all the way around.  Test fit planks including the Garboard strake

b.       Make sure BHD’s are at the right length and do not run past the bearding line

c.       Bow & Stern Blocks – sand and add wood filler as needed to get a smooth transition at both ends

d.       Attach test Battens to see where BHD’s need sanding or shimming

e.       Shim & sand the Quarterdeck and Forecastle deck so they are aligned under a straightedge

f.        Do a final sanding (FAIR the hull) by doing the BHD’s & filler blocks all together

 

 

Here is what the Bearding Line looks like on both sides of the ship.  I had to make the cut a little deeper at the keel in a several spots.  The Bulkheads looked pretty good here with only a little sanding required

 

 

I had added another filler block behind BHD A to help make the curve into the bow easier for planking.  I put a bunch of wood filler in some gaps there.  I sanded everything down.  There are still a few holes, but I think there is enough surface that these will not be a problem.

 

 

I marked the location of the A, B & C planking belts.  I attached test battens to see where there were bumps or dips.  The bulkheads mostly required shimming in a number of spots.  These got sanded smooth along with the BHD’s at the bow & stern where they need to be angled.

 

Example of a shim glued to one of the BHD’s and the faired frame P/S

 

 

Finally, I added a lot of shims on the quarterdeck and the forecastle deck.  I did not attempt to make the height at the tops of these bulkheads equal.  I studied & measured the plans and it seems to me that there is a definite slope on both of these decks toward the midship (BHD G).  I shimmed and sanded until my straight edge lay flat across all the BHD’s.   I hope I haven’t screwed the whole model up, but I had to go with my gut on this one!!

 

Quarterdeck after shimming and sanding.  The center bubble on the level shows the slope toward midship.

 

 

Please give me your comments or suggestions!  I’m on to STAGE B: Upper Hull Planking and Deck Details

[Dave_E]

Hey Ed,

 

Looks good Brother. The bulkhead fairing in my mind is such an important part of planking. I didn’t spend a lot of time on mine, because when it’s time… every single plank is a new project and that will include bulkhead fairing to get it as perfect as possible to receive a plank. We’re just about at the exact same place on our builds. Monday I take off for Hawaii for the whole month, so won’t be any progress on mine until January. I’ll be watching you though. 👍😀

[Ed Ku20]

Thanks Dave! Hope you have a great time on your vacation.  If you're on the Big island, watch out for molten lava flowing down the road!!  Haven't had as much hobby time the past couple of weeks. Busy with family stuff this time of year. But, that's no problem...its not a hobby if you're in a hurry,  right?

 

Safe travels,

Ed

 

[James G]

Very nice Ed! I like all the work you've put into the faring. With my limited experience (three boats) this is an area not to move through too quickly. I've done that and chased poor faring for the remainder of the build. Very frustrating! This seems to be a hobby where patience truly is a virtue!

Edited December 2, 2022 by James G